[Rama777]

Hi there! This is an 8 day old seedling now.

Soil - 50% pro mix and 50% coast of Maine stonington blend

Water - Rain water (7.0 ph)

EC - unknown but presumably ultra low

Environment - tent with oscillating fan and exhaust

Humidity - 55-65%

Temps - 72-81

No nutes given yet. Also no calmag but just picked some up today in case this could be surfacing as a deficiency already?

Just seems to be steadily increasing yellowing spots on the leaves. Any ideas? Much appreciated in advance!

 

[Rama777]

Oh forgot to mention lighting. 6500k T5’s at around 3” distance.

 

[Imzzaudae]

Look at the top leaf pointing up. Look at the outer 1/2 of the leaf. See the blistery texture that's light burn. Not real bad but it's stressing the plant. Your light is way to close. Back it off 2 feet from the top of the plant. She will be ok.

Pretty much an organic grow what you going to feed her?
Don't worry about EC. Just keep an eye on water ph with nutrients added.

Pot looks a little wet. Make sure you let it dry out a few days before watering.

 

[Rama777]

Awesome thanks! I was hoping that’s what it was. Easy fix. I don’t know about T5’s two feet back but I will back it off another few inches ;)

Yes it will be organics. I’ll be feeding dry solubles. I have 9 plants started in a 3x3 right now. I’ll grow 4 of them out ultimately under a 600 watt HPS. Gets damn cold in my climate.

 

[Kamisama]

I d decrease PH to 6.2-6.5 and add calmag, due to your light its building deficiency of magnesium.

 

[Rama777]

So you think the blistering is from the lights, but that rather than being physical damage, it’s a deficiency but caused by the light intensity?

I did actually pickup some calmag yesterday in case that’s what it was. Also have some buffering solution coming soon. Planning to adjust my water to 6.5

Maybe skip the calmag until transplant time next week and just back the lights off a bit?

 

[Gmix]

Yeah just haul the lights up a bit to early to add cali mg in soil otherwise your good

 

[Rama777]

Awesome. I’m so grateful for the help! Does this leaf curl also look like light or heat induced stress?

 

[GNick55]

Awesome. I’m so grateful for the help! Does this leaf curl also look like light or heat induced stress? View attachment 2052770

stop over thinking things..
geez does not need calmag..
t5 put at 10-12 inches above tops..
what nutrients do you have there when it comes time to use them?
take pictures of all you have..

 

[GNick55]

also stop ph’ing the water..
your leaf curl concern is from watering.,

 

[Rama777]

I hear ya’ man. I’m not terribly worried or anything. Everything looks great overall! My questions are coming less from anxiety and more from a desire to gain knowledge so that in the future when I see things that I’ve already seen before that I can help answer new grower’s questions instead of asking them :)

I’m not buffering the water. I mentioned the pH of the rain water was 7 because that’s what it is naturally with nothing added to it. I’ll buffer it if I have later depending on how the nutrients act in solution.

Leaf curl from having a bit more moisture than ideal?

I’lo be using nutrients from a company called terrabiotics. Probably not too well known. I have been using their products for years on my organic, no-till farm. I grow produce for restaurants for a living.

I start thousands of plants each year. The vast majority are transplanted to the field within 4 weeks and honestly I don’t have a lot of experience analyzing issues with my starts really because any slight issues that may arise typically just clear up after transplant..

 

[GNick55]

I hear ya’ man. I’m not terribly worried or anything. Everything looks great overall! My questions are coming less from anxiety and more from a desire to gain knowledge so that in the future when I see things that I’ve already seen before that I can help answer new grower’s questions instead of asking them :)

I’m not buffering the water. I mentioned the pH of the rain water was 7 because that’s what it is naturally with nothing added to it. I’ll buffer it if I have later depending on how the nutrients act in solution.

Leaf curl from having a bit more moisture than ideal?

I’lo be using nutrients from a company called terrabiotics. Probably not too well known. I have been using their products for years on my organic, no-till farm. I grow produce for restaurants for a living.

I start thousands of plants each year. The vast majority are transplanted to the field within 4 weeks and honestly I don’t have a lot of experience analyzing issues with my starts really because any slight issues that may arise typically just clear up after transplant..

with your growing medium and those nutrients there is no reason to ph anything.,

 

[GNick55]

with your growing medium and those nutrients there is no reason to ph anything.,

mmmm you got me interested in those nutrients, i like those NPK ratios..

 

[Rama777]

I got turned on to them from an exceptional soil analyst. They’re good people and if anything underpriced relative to fertilizer market tends.

 

[Imzzaudae]

When growing organic there is no need to ph rain water. If you want to mix your watering solution, ok it's not against the law but it is best left to mother nature. Rain water tends to run 7. I don't see anyone running around the Amazon with a ph pen and it's been doing pretty well for about a million years .

What dry amendments?
What about microbes in your soil? Have you added any?

When you transplant her into big pot. Mix 1/4 cup bone meal into your soil before you plant the seedling.
This will take care of any calcium problems down the road.


Make this. Use Alaska fish fertilizer.

When you transplant.
Crosbys fancy molasses from the grocery store. It's unsulphored.

Real Canadian Superstore Supermarket | Grocery shop online or instore

www.realcanadiansuperstore.ca

1 Table spoon per gallon of water.

Take 3/4 cup of rain water heat quite warm in the microwave.
Add 1 teaspoon of molasses to the hot water and mix well. let it cool
Add to 1 quart of the above seedling fertilizer. This will inoculate your pot with local microbes.
And add many nutrients

The sugar in the molasses will give the microbes a boost and they will break it down quickly.
Molasses is full of minerals your plant will be looking for as it grows.
Once a month and you will have no problems with deficiency's.

All in all this will give your seedling a real nice new home. With everything it needs.
I see you have dry amendments picked out . Feed lightly!

 

[Rama777]

I actually picked up some of their bagged soil. Loos pretty damn good on paper. 60 dollars shipped for 10 gallons is such a solid price compared to build a soil. I’m going to run two of these plant in that and two in com’s stonington blend which does great for my long season transplanted crops. I can get that locally for 40 a bag. So we’ll see if the terrabiotics performs better or turns out to be easier to manage.

 

[Rama777]

Thanks for the info! This soil will have those bases covered. Here’s a link:

Living Soil

Premium living soil with full complement of organic nutrients, humic acids, fulvic acids, amino acids, beneficial soil bacteria, saprophytic fungi & MycorrhizaeHorticulture grade Canadian peat, Coco Coir, Composted redwood fine grind, Perlite, Worm Casting, Gypsum, Alfalfa meal, Dolomite, Bat...

terrabiotics.com

Only thing I’ve given them is their bio-boost product. I’ll be using their pro-line of products. They also have some other line that was created to replace Athena products. I believe they may have even worked with Athena on that, I’m not sure..

The reason I picked up calmag (roots brand, no N) is because I have to decommission my rainwater collection in the winter. I probably should test my well water someday but having grown 10’s of thousands of annual starts, I can tell you that plants hate it. I’ve always suspected sodium but I never tested it since I have the rainwater source. I haven’t had plants to water in the winter except microgreens and they don’t live long enough to mind the well water.

I’ll be sourcing distilled water more than likely which is why I may end up buffering depending, and may end up using some cal/mag/sulfur.

 

[Rama777]

Actually one though I’ve had is to get some 5 gallon water bottles and bring enough rain water in for the winter grow while I have it. I haven’t decided on 5 or 7 gallon bags and I’ve also not looked into how much water I might end up using throughout the whole cycle. It’s on my todo list..

 

[3cats]

I actually picked up some of their bagged soil. Loos pretty damn good on paper. 60 dollars shipped for 10 gallons is such a solid price compared to build a soil. I’m going to run two of these plant in that and two in com’s stonington blend which does great for my long season transplanted crops. I can get that locally for 40 a bag. So we’ll see if the terrabiotics performs better or turns out to be easier to manage.

Hi, I grow in Promix and instead of adding 50% coast of Maine soil I'd of added up to 40% more perlite. The promix compacts after a cycles of wet dry and I don't think the Coast of Maine will help in aeration or loosening of the soil.

I used to add 15% more to promix that already had 20% perlite and that still wasn't enough so I've upped it to 40% perlite mixed with my amendments and that has done what I wanted. No more soil compaction but it makes transplanting tricky with such lose soil. My plants grow great in it though.

 

[Rama777]

I agree with the need for more perlite, and the stonington needs it too honestly. I could have added some but at this point they seem more or less fine. I wouldn’t want them to dry out any faster at this stage. I’ve probably given them a tiny touch too much water but I’m on my farm all day and can only get to the tent once a day.