Another question I now have is I am switching my light up to the AC infinity IONFRAME EVO10 and am wondering if that light is gonna be enough to produce nice dense buds and support my plants.
I will definitely do that. Thank youYour light should come with recommendations from the manufacturer for light height from canopy and then light intensity. Just get the Photone app. Make a strip of printer paper with tape around the top of your phone and it’ll read your ppfd correctly. If your light is to low no matter how much nutrients you use or good genetics you will produce wispy buds
8x8 TentWhat size is your tent? Or space? That’s a very good light it’s powerful. You’ll produce don’t worry. You need to get the Photone app to measure ppfd. Then you’ll never have to much or to little light in every stage of growth.
I got 8 girls going right now8x8 Tent
Well, pH isn't measured in ppm. It is the abbreviation for power of Hydrogen. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Below that is acidic. Above that is alkaline (or basic). Parts per million, ppm, measures the amount of a substance in a solution or mixture.What should it be in organics? I know people say the soil will buffer the ph however depending on the alkalinity of the water, if it’s above 75ppm you need to adjust it
Another question I now have is I am switching my light up to the AC infinity IONFRAME EVO10 and am wondering if that light is gonna be enough to produce nice dense buds and support my plants.
8x8 Tent
Beginner advice/experience. Take with caution. I’m also new to growing but this stood out to me (25-30 ppm). Is this before or after your nutes get added? I did an outdoor organic grow using FFOF a few years ago and think I nailed it. My understanding with that FoxFarm soil is it’ll get you about a month initially in Veg. At least that’s what it did for me with the FFOF. After that I needed to add organic nutrients and I kept the ppm between 300-1000 during early to late veg before flowering started and the feeding formula changed. You also might want to do what I “think” is called a slurry test for your ph. Where you test the ph & ppm of the soil and nutes in the pot. I also check the run off for both of those items.My ppm after the RO is about 25 to 30 with the 3 part micro, grow and bloom added
Wouldnt that month be dependant on the amount of dirt the size of the plant and the power of the lamp?Beginner advice/experience. Take with caution. I’m also new to growing but this stood out to me (25-30 ppm). Is this before or after your nutes get added? I did an outdoor organic grow using FFOF a few years ago and think I nailed it. My understanding with that FoxFarm soil is it’ll get you about a month initially in Veg. At least that’s what it did for me with the FFOF. After that I needed to add organic nutrients and I kept the ppm between 300-1000 during early to late veg before flowering started and the feeding formula changed. You also might want to do what I “think” is called a slurry test for your ph. Where you test the ph & ppm of the soil and nutes in the pot. I also check the run off for both of those items.
Yea when I water them fully they tend to turn yellow on new growth for a couple days. I just got spider farmer auto drip irrigation system that might help to water fully without overwatering the top soil and mid soil is dry cause all the water seems to run out the side of the pot instead of going down. I got 10 gallon pots for some and 7 gallon for others cause I didn’t wanna buy more pots till next run.I didn’t read all the comments but has anyone brought up that the soil is moist only around the base of the plants?
Those bags need a 100% thorough watering every time and followed by a 5+ day dry back. Dry spots in the soil can cause all sorts of shit.
This is after I just manually watered all of them fullyYea when I water them fully they tend to turn yellow on new growth for a couple days. I just got spider farmer auto drip irrigation system that might help to water fully without overwatering the top soil and mid soil is dry cause all the water seems to run out the side of the pot instead of going down. I got 10 gallon pots for some and 7 gallon for others cause I didn’t wanna buy more pots till next run.
So I did get the dimensions wrong I just bought this bigger tent so give me a little slack lol but it’s a 4X8ionframe evo 10 board dimension is 112cmx113cm (almost 4x4) so it's too small to offer an even light coverage and dispersion for flowering the whole area in a 8x8 tent. it's good for flowering a 5x5 tent eventually with co2
you should go with 4 smaller panel efficient for flowering a 4x4 area
like 4 ionframe evo 6 (panel dimension almost 3x3)
Alkalinity is measured in Ppms not the ph. Two different things.Well, pH isn't measured in ppm. It is the abbreviation for power of Hydrogen. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Below that is acidic. Above that is alkaline (or basic). Parts per million, ppm, measures the amount of a substance in a solution or mixture.
People do say soil can buffer the pH. That means the soil will adjust the pH to a specific value.
There isn't a need for adjusting the pH of water when using organic (dry) nutrients. There is a need, however, when using synthetic (liquid) nutrients. The reason for the difference has to do with how the nutrients are taken up by the roots.
Synthetic nutrients are directly taken up by the plant, but the best pH value differs for each elemental nutrient (Nitogen, for example). Only a pH close to 6.0 is at a level at which all nutrients are available to the plant.
Organic nutrients are taken up with the help of fungi in the soil, known as mycorrhiza. Mycorrhizae live in mutualistic symbiotic relationship with the plant. Their part in this relationship is to feed the plant, thus pH is only a concern for the mycorrhizae, and they aren't as picky as the plant.
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