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I believe its an auto, so 12/12 isn't necessary.
I believe its an auto, so 12/12 isn't necessary.Personally; I would fix the humidity. Stop the cal/mag. And change to a 12/12 light cycle. The plant needs dark as much as it needs light.
It’s not required for it to flower no. But it certainly does need some downtime. Plants undergo different processes during nighttime than daytime. And right now it isn’t getting enough time to undergo its dark cycle.I believe its an auto, so 12/12 isn't necessary.
Fair enough. It is already in flower and OP doesn’t want it to herm. Advise for the future I suppose.I personally wouldn't fuck with light cycle right now, but dim or raise the light to let it recover a bit.
Different lights. Different PAR ratings. Different plant health and nutrient optimizations.Slight overfert. If you have pens use them and Ph. That light can be closer than 24 inches too. I've had it touching sometimes without issue. Aim for the VPD chart but its not an exact science unless you have total room control.
These are autos...........Personally; I would fix the humidity. Stop the cal/mag. And change to a 12/12 light cycle. The plant needs dark as much as it needs light.
I know that.These are autos...........
I had the exact same light.Different lights. Different PAR ratings. Different plant health and nutrient optimizations.
I would strongly advise against moving them closer. In OPs situation
Yes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.I know that.
Just because it can be grown in continuous light doesn’t mean it’s what’s best for the plant.
Ruderalis evolved to be able to flower in the harsh conditions of the upper hemisphere where there is more light. And it survived in spite of that. Not because of it.
Well. If you go back to my hello thread I said my first two grows didn’t turn out well. They were both autos. Now maybe I know whyYes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.
I've only ever run auto's on 12/12 they do fine, maybe smaller than keeping them on 18hrs but still nice plants. I just finished 2 auto Gsc that were flipped with my photo's and they came out great. I mainly grow Photo's but I'll add in an Auto or 2 if I've the seeds. I don't really notice any difference other than the males showing early. This pic is one of the Gsc I just finishedYes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.
That’s a bit high for rh in flower. 40 - 50% is ideal mid to late flower.Oh good!
What’s damaged will stay damaged. But it will keep it from getting worse. While in flower I like to keep my plants about 55%RH
True but that also depends on his running temperature. If he can't keep temp contained within the zone then higher RH is needed to optimize transpiration. Most of the worry of higher RH through late flower is mold and bud rot but as long as you have sufficient air flow and clean protocols your issues should be minimal.That’s a bit high for rh in flower. 40 - 50% is ideal mid to late flower.
Well…I guess I assumed if running ideal rh one would also know to run an ideal temp to get vpd in the 1.2 to 1.5 range. But sometimes I assume to much, lol.True but that also depends on his running temperature. If he can't keep temp contained within the zone then higher RH is needed to optimize transpiration. Most of the worry of higher RH through late flower is mold and bud rot but as long as you have sufficient air flow and clean protocols your issues should be minimal.
lol. Where I live I don’t have great control over the temperature. (I live in an apartment tower that uses hydronic cooling/heating). So I’m a bit at the mercy of the outside temperature being low enough to offset the temperature of the radiator in the room.Well…I guess I assumed if running ideal rh one would also know to run an ideal temp to get vpd in the 1.2 to 1.5 range. But sometimes I assume too much, lol.
Got to work with what you can.lol. Where I live I don’t have great control over the temperature. (I live in an apartment tower that uses hydronic cooling/heating). So I’m a bit at the mercy of the outside temperature being low enough to offset the temperature of the radiator in the room.
Can’t even have a window unit
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