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New guy/ please help diagnose

  • Thread starter Thread starter Newguy2022
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New guy/ please help diagnose

Newguy2022 56 Replies 5,303 Views
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I believe its an auto, so 12/12 isn't necessary.
It’s not required for it to flower no. But it certainly does need some downtime. Plants undergo different processes during nighttime than daytime. And right now it isn’t getting enough time to undergo its dark cycle.

Which you can get by with in veg but is a big no no in flower. If OP doesn’t want to switch to 12/12 I’d recommend at least providing a few more hours of dark.
 
Here is a chart that shows what humidity you need for proper transpiration at each temperature in each stage. If it's very dead, yes remove it so you don't attract pathogens. I have never personally grown an auto yet so my advice on those is limited.
Screenshot 20220322 154000 Chrome
 
My first 2 grows were autos. After growing them I gave away the rest of my seeds. Autos are finicky and really aren’t worth the trouble.
 
I personally wouldn't fuck with light cycle that drastically right now, but dim or raise the light to let it recover a bit. Maybe take it down to 18. Going from 20 to 12 is a bad idea.
 
Slight overfert. If you have pens use them and Ph. That light can be closer than 24 inches too. I've had it touching sometimes without issue. Aim for the VPD chart but its not an exact science unless you have total room control.
 
I personally wouldn't fuck with light cycle right now, but dim or raise the light to let it recover a bit.
Fair enough. It is already in flower and OP doesn’t want it to herm. Advise for the future I suppose.
 
Slight overfert. If you have pens use them and Ph. That light can be closer than 24 inches too. I've had it touching sometimes without issue. Aim for the VPD chart but its not an exact science unless you have total room control.
Different lights. Different PAR ratings. Different plant health and nutrient optimizations.

I would strongly advise against moving them closer. In OPs situation
 
These are autos...........
I know that. 😅

Just because it can be grown in continuous light doesn’t mean it’s what’s best for the plant.

Ruderalis evolved to be able to flower in the harsh conditions of the upper hemisphere where there is more light. And it survived in spite of that. Not because of it.
 
Different lights. Different PAR ratings. Different plant health and nutrient optimizations.

I would strongly advise against moving them closer. In OPs situation
I had the exact same light.
 
Most people with auto experience will tell you that 12/12 is not enough light time. 18 to 24 hours.

Hell......there's a debate going about how even 12/12 may not be optimal for photo and 14/10 is better......
 
I know that. 😅

Just because it can be grown in continuous light doesn’t mean it’s what’s best for the plant.

Ruderalis evolved to be able to flower in the harsh conditions of the upper hemisphere where there is more light. And it survived in spite of that. Not because of it.
Yes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.
 
Yes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.
Well. If you go back to my hello thread I said my first two grows didn’t turn out well. They were both autos. Now maybe I know why 🫣😅
 
Yes 20 hours is not optimal, but I've never met an auto grower that runs 12. Any time any plant is sick we raise or dim lights for recovery. Op under no circumstances move a damn mars3000 closer than it is now on a sick plant unless you wish to kill it where it sits.
I've only ever run auto's on 12/12 they do fine, maybe smaller than keeping them on 18hrs but still nice plants. I just finished 2 auto Gsc that were flipped with my photo's and they came out great. I mainly grow Photo's but I'll add in an Auto or 2 if I've the seeds. I don't really notice any difference other than the males showing early. This pic is one of the Gsc I just finished

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That’s a bit high for rh in flower. 40 - 50% is ideal mid to late flower.
True but that also depends on his running temperature. If he can't keep temp contained within the zone then higher RH is needed to optimize transpiration. Most of the worry of higher RH through late flower is mold and bud rot but as long as you have sufficient air flow and clean protocols your issues should be minimal.
 
True but that also depends on his running temperature. If he can't keep temp contained within the zone then higher RH is needed to optimize transpiration. Most of the worry of higher RH through late flower is mold and bud rot but as long as you have sufficient air flow and clean protocols your issues should be minimal.
Well…I guess I assumed if running ideal rh one would also know to run an ideal temp to get vpd in the 1.2 to 1.5 range. But sometimes I assume to much, lol.
 
Well…I guess I assumed if running ideal rh one would also know to run an ideal temp to get vpd in the 1.2 to 1.5 range. But sometimes I assume too much, lol.
lol. Where I live I don’t have great control over the temperature. (I live in an apartment tower that uses hydronic cooling/heating). So I’m a bit at the mercy of the outside temperature being low enough to offset the temperature of the radiator in the room.

Can’t even have a window unit 😭
 
lol. Where I live I don’t have great control over the temperature. (I live in an apartment tower that uses hydronic cooling/heating). So I’m a bit at the mercy of the outside temperature being low enough to offset the temperature of the radiator in the room.

Can’t even have a window unit 😭
Got to work with what you can.
 
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