CharmCity915
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Yea it'll be just fine.. Let the soil dry up to where its almost hard before watering again
Yea it'll be just fine.. Let the soil dry up to where its almost hard before watering againI don't want it root bound. Do you think it'll be ok until Sunday?
Alright, thank you so much!Yea it'll be just fine.. Let the soil dry up to where its almost hard before watering again
NiceIn this case, IMO, yes, you want it rootbound. One of the things this causes is earlier and faster flowering.
I agree with @3N1GM4 keep the cfl's about 4-6 inches from the plant. Even though cfl's work great they still get hot to burn your little girl. I was using 400 watts of cfl's on 1 plant. lolol. Just watch how close you put them to the plant. The soil I use is Fox Farms. Good stuff. Peace Out and good luck...hey guys so I just planted the seed last week and I was just wondering if it's looking like it should. My first plant was not good at all so I want to make sure everything is correct. I am usin ecoscraps soil with 2 23cfl lights. I have a small fan on slow and a humidifier on low. It's on 18-6 lighting. I water it once or twice a week but little water but enough to keep it growing. How is it looking so far?View attachment 596505 View attachment 596506
I thought root bound is bad??In this case, IMO, yes, you want it rootbound. One of the things this causes is earlier and faster flowering.
Oh, the boy who was helping me told me it was a horrible problem and it could cause root rot. Would a gallon sized pot be ok for a plant a little shorter than 2 feet? My plan is to switch to the flowering stage when its maybe 10 inches tall.Go on Google and look up
When is root bound a good problem
Not always. In this instance it will help you keep the plant under control.I thought root bound is bad??
Does the pit have to have holes in the bottom? I know that's a really really stupid question but I really don't want to go out and buy a whole new pot with holes when I have one without holes here. But also my soil is supposed to absorb the water but it doesn't look like it even goes all the way down into the g2 bottle I have it in now. It seems like I have to use a lot more water to get it all the way down.That's a good plan. No more than 2gals IMO.
Not always. In this instance it will help you keep the plant under control.
My fertilizer is a nasty brown color, and another stupid question cuz I'm lazy and wanna save money. Could a gallon milk carton work if I cut off the top and poke holes in it?Yes, it must be able to drain the water, otherwise it could start rotting. Just drill holes in the container. If it's plastic and you have nothing else, heat up a nail and melt holes in it.
There will come a point when you're going to have problems watering the way you are. I suggest getting holes drilled, put a saucer underneath and doing a watering that goes all the way through the soil every couple of weeks or so, especially if you're using a concentrated fertilizer (anything blue is generally very concentrated).
Use 500 watt cfl's can give place to get can get in E-25 (standard) and E-39 moglesI used that method on my last plant. I was using 2 40w cfls and 2 23w cfls. Since the 40s get a lot hotter I put them a little farther away. I used the back of the hand method. My hand didn't get hot, but my plant still had signs of heat burn.
I heard that 100w CFL can work for one plant. But only one plant that stays very small. I just got home from being at my moms for the weekend, the plant got a lot bigger than I thought it would. Lots of roots. Most people usually wait a little longer to transplant, and usually it's in a little bigger container than mine right now is in. Should I transplant now or give it more time?Use 500 watt cfl's can give place to get can get in E-25 (standard) and E-39 mogles
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