New to this community. Need help!

[purpledream]

Hi, I wanted to look for answers that I’m dealing with my first cycle and wanted to look for some answers.

It’s starting to see some rusty parts and wonder what it could be I’m growing with the late flowers so 50 RH, 72f off light 80on kings mix, ac infinity self watering pot, organic fertilizers, 5 gallon fabric pot evo8 at 6 and I have some decent size on other but I have no idea what this could be. Please Ask me some questions I can answer what I’m doing with.

 

[pnwbluntman]

Hey welcome to the farm, sorry no one has replied to your question. When is the last time you flushed your plant? Those leaves are looking pretty pale, possible salt buildup going. I would check the EC level of some run off while flushing with recommended pH balanced water for your medium. Then treat with cal mag and lower light intensity for a couple days.

 

[pnwbluntman]

And judging by the plant in the back there it's not to far behind. Those really dark leaves are a sign of a high ec level or excessive nutrients. What kind of strain is this? A photo or auto? From what I know about autos is you usually want to run them at a 1/4 - 1/2 strength for nutrients, as well as half the ec level as where you w be growing photos.

 

[pnwbluntman]

Clawing leaves are a sign of too much nitrogen

 

[Ninjadogma]

Looks like calcium spotting to me and where the plant is in its life, this is when you would expect it to be hungry for it. Check that your soil pH isn't too low and if it's a good number, give it some gypsum added into the water. Keep an eye out for yellow margins around your spots though, because that would indicate a septoria infection, not a calcium deficiency. Photo isn't the best so I thought I'd throw that disclaimer out there. Looks a little lighter on the top half of the plant. It could be the lighting in the picture but if you are seeing that, raise the light distance a little, or dim them down slightly if they have that feature.

Just needs some minor maintenance care, you are good and still headed the right direction.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Hmmmm
So an all organic medium grow pre amended with stuff and then went to an organic fertilizer. No chemical ferts in the bottle.
As an organic guy who is MASTER at screwing up a feed chart this is always the first thing I ask.
Show me the feed chart you are using and please note ANY changes in what went in the pot.
At feed rates published by the company it is just about impossible to over swing nitrogen.
Majority of my mistakes have been not following the feed chart and not amending ( adding organic nutrients ) before they are needed. You have about a 10 day lead time from adding to processing for plant uptake.
Organics in soil is all about preloading the nutrients and being careful with watering practices that can run the buffers out and cause later problems.
In my organic plan I start adding cal/mag when the lights hit 75% of my expected maximum output. That was at 30,000 lux and was week 2 flower. 3ml gallon rate. I did have some plants run a mag fade and the feed for cal-mag when the plant shows an issue is 5ml per gallon rate.
The mix you are using will prolly work just fine but it is a mixture of coco and peat and it seems when this is tried home made it does not do well.
I would treat with cal mag back the lights down 5% in energy and keep watching for the yellow circle of doom around the rust spots.
I also have a recommendation to ignore any call to use 1/2 the nutes in an organic grow. Organics is a feedback loop from nutrients to plants. If you reduce strength in a chemical nutrient grow you get reduced uptake.
When you 1/2 feed an organic grow the uptake is the same you just run out faster.

 

[purpledream]

Hmmmm
So an all organic medium grow pre amended with stuff and then went to an organic fertilizer. No chemical ferts in the bottle.
As an organic guy who is MASTER at screwing up a feed chart this is always the first thing I ask.
Show me the feed chart you are using and please note ANY changes in what went in the pot.
At feed rates published by the company it is just about impossible to over swing nitrogen.
Majority of my mistakes have been not following the feed chart and not amending ( adding organic nutrients ) before they are needed. You have about a 10 day lead time from adding to processing for plant uptake.
Organics in soil is all about preloading the nutrients and being careful with watering practices that can run the buffers out and cause later problems.
In my organic plan I start adding cal/mag when the lights hit 75% of my expected maximum output. That was at 30,000 lux and was week 2 flower. 3ml gallon rate. I did have some plants run a mag fade and the feed for cal-mag when the plant shows an issue is 5ml per gallon rate.
The mix you are using will prolly work just fine but it is a mixture of coco and peat and it seems when this is tried home made it does not do well.
I would treat with cal mag back the lights down 5% in energy and keep watching for the yellow circle of doom around the rust spots.
I also have a recommendation to ignore any call to use 1/2 the nutes in an organic grow. Organics is a feedback loop from nutrients to plants. If you reduce strength in a chemical nutrient grow you get reduced uptake.
When you 1/2 feed an organic grow the uptake is the same you just run out faster.

So I was doing 4-4-4 for 3tsp every two weeks in a 5 gallon fabric pot until it was starting to pre flowering and when started flowering more then I started to do 1tsp of 4-4-4 and 2tsp of 3-6-4 every two weeks and this gg4 auto is in 3week of flowering and I have been using refrigerator filter water so it has been mid 200 ppm before any nothing. I did 1L=1/4 tsp and usually my bottles are 2L so 1/2 tsp of Calimagic ( half gallon= half tsp) and molasses once every week together and always phed about 6.2. I know I have been using little too much on Calimagic and planing to lower it to half of that dose next feed. I did water the pot almost all the way up in ac infinity pot last week and might thinking that cause the roots to not having enough oxygen that it caused it. I thought my dose was light enough on fertilizer but my plants seems like having some calcium uptake problem. I don’t know I answered your questions.

 

[purpledream]

And judging by the plant in the back there it's not to far behind. Those really dark leaves are a sign of a high ec level or excessive nutrients. What kind of strain is this? A photo or auto? From what I know about autos is you usually want to run them at a 1/4 - 1/2 strength for nutrients, as well as half the ec level as where you w be growing photos.

It’s gg4 auto from Barney’s farm. I’m doing little over half dose for fertilizer and feeding about every two weeks and I was doing half gallon to half tsp. I have not checking ec level too hard tbh so I will keep an eye out on them. Btw this is the plant that you saw and it does have a darker leaves on the bottom but overall looking fine

 

[purpledream]

Hey welcome to the farm, sorry no one has replied to your question. When is the last time you flushed your plant? Those leaves are looking pretty pale, possible salt buildup going. I would check the EC level of some run off while flushing with recommended pH balanced water for your medium. Then treat with cal mag and lower light intensity for a couple days.

I am planing to flush it. I’m just dealing with the gnat infestation issue started today so I can’t really do too much. I was flushing my farther flower pots and it end up causing this and I am frustrated. Do you have any suggestions of how I should get rid of it. I just ordered sticky traps and mosquito bites and planning to make a tea and top water it tomorrow.

 

[purpledream]

Looks like calcium spotting to me and where the plant is in its life, this is when you would expect it to be hungry for it. Check that your soil pH isn't too low and if it's a good number, give it some gypsum added into the water. Keep an eye out for yellow margins around your spots though, because that would indicate a septoria infection, not a calcium deficiency. Photo isn't the best so I thought I'd throw that disclaimer out there. Looks a little lighter on the top half of the plant. It could be the lighting in the picture but if you are seeing that, raise the light distance a little, or dim them down slightly if they have that feature.

Just needs some minor maintenance care, you are good and still headed the right direction.

I agree with you. I think I’m dealing with calcium uptake problem. The new leaves that coming out are much more healthy color so I might be okay now. I don’t think it is septoria infection but it’s good to know that there is a possibility. I’m sure those plants are far enough from the lights because I LSTed good enough that it’s short and bushy. I also checked the lux and it’s in the acceptable range. I was inspecting that it could be the heat at first but I think it was the calcium uptake problem as common issue for autos.

 

[purpledream]

It’s gg4 auto from Barney’s farm. I’m doing little over half dose for fertilizer and feeding about every two weeks and I was doing half gallon to half tsp. I have not checking ec level too hard tbh so I will keep an eye out on them. Btw this is the plant that you saw and it does have a darker leaves on the bottom but overall looking fine View attachment 2582904Half gallon to half tsp of calimagic with molasses

 

[pnwbluntman]

I don't know much on auto deficiencies, that's something others will have to give you more information on. But I do know that high levels of magnesium, potassium or sodium can competitively block out calcium uptake at the roots due to nutrient antagonism. That's why checking your ec level can help as well as having the correct ph'd water. Calcium is a immobile nutrient, once it's placed in the cell wall or leaves it cannot be moved or used by the plant in other areas, so a constant level of calcium is needed. That's why I ask if you have flushed. Feeding from the bottom is good, it just doesn't wash out the salt buildup at the roots efficiently. Even though having a good watering schedule can help from building up to high ec level in the soil, just like any medium having a good flushing schedule as well as keeping your cal mag handy and on a schedule matching up your nutrients close to your strains growth intervals.

 

[purpledream]

I don't know much on auto deficiencies, that's something others will have to give you more information on. But I do know that high levels of magnesium, potassium or sodium can competitively block out calcium uptake at the roots due to nutrient antagonism. That's why checking your ec level can help as well as having the correct ph'd water. Calcium is an immobile nutrient, once it's placed in the cell wall or leaves it cannot be moved or used by the plant in other areas, so a constant level of calcium is needed. That's why I ask if you have flushed. Feeding from the bottom is good, it just doesn't wash out the salt buildup at the roots efficiently. Even though having a good watering schedule can help from building up to high ec level in the soil, just like any medium having a good flushing schedule as well as keeping your cal mag handy and on a schedule matching up your nutrients close to your strains growth intervals.

I really appreciate it