New user help with ppms

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LaughingBush

LaughingBush

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New user, hello and thanks for any knowledge you may drop for me. Third grow. First time using coco perlite mix and Humboldts Secret nutrients. Honestly, the plants look awesome, just one or two leafs showing a tiny bit of tip burn week 6 into flowering but my runoff ppm has been higher than what I’m feeding. I water + cal mag every other day and give nutrients the other days. My readings were good up until the last 6 feedings and now they are higher and seem to be going up. Nutrient reads 1100ppm/PH 6.3 runoff is 1518ppm/PH 6.0 I have done a flush with clearex which lowered the ppms a bit but they went right back up. I’m thinking I should maybe just water+ cal mag more and feed less. I’m just waiting for something to go wrong even though my plants say otherwise. Thanks!
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831FB6F0 EC63 4B95 92FB F0D439AF00EC
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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I'm also growing in coco the first time, and I'm also battling runoff EC rising. I've tried various techniques, but basically it's coming down to this. Water more, with lower EC. Mainly water more. Tell us about your current watering habits?

I'm growing four plants in a 4x4 tent, and they are FAR more dense that your two. Looking at the stretch you have, it feels like your lights aren't bright enough.

I flipped my lights Feb 15 - when did you? They look in a similar state. I'm growing Sour Diesel, which has a long flowering stage (11 weeks), and I'm into my 8th week now. Mine seem maybe a week ahead of yours, though it's hard to say.

I'm doing the cocoforcannabis.com watering and drain system. I'm currently up to 7x daily fertigation, which moves a lot of water and nutes through. I've been gradually reducing EC to a point where I don't see tip burn on new growth, and for the strain I'm growing, that seems to be around 1000 or less. (By the way, what ppm scale does your meter use? 500 or 700 ppm?)
 
LaughingBush

LaughingBush

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I water everyday once a day. Large plant takes 2/3 gallon smaller one the remaining 1/3 and I usually get a cup of runoff from both. One day cal mag, the next feed and so on.
Both plants are the same strain, exotic genetix Jigglers which has a 8-9 week flowering time. They were both planted same time January 12th but the smaller one sprouted 2 days later and was much bushier than the larger one. I also let them veg a week longer because I took 2 clones from each for a friend. The larger one really stretched when I switched the light schedule to 12/12. I strip some of the upper fan leaves day 10 and day 40 into flowering to allow more light/air to the lower buds. The larger plant has around 20-25 main tops and the smaller one around 15-20. The smaller one is really dense even after defoliating. I’ve had grows with the same lighting where the stretch wasn’t so prominent so I’m guessing it could be strain related. Strain info reads multi topped/SOG height: medium. I also prune my plants like crazy during veg to get more tops.
I have 2 2000w LEDs in a 4x4x8 tent. Keep humidity around 50, temp 70-75 lights on and 65-70 off. CO2 runs from 400-1000 and varies daily.
I use a meter to check my ppm and I always feed on the lower side of the recommended nutrients to avoid burn. I’m going to just water/cal mag until the ppms come down a bit. Thanks for replying!
2C3C5125 2F6E 49C6 915A E64D1D5C43FC
 
Aqua Man

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I’ll post 2 articles for you coco guys that I feel will help you both understand the principles of coco and how to water it depending on your specific grow setups. It will explain your rising ppm.
In my coco grow I ended up feeding 14x a day


 
LaughingBush

LaughingBush

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I’ll post 2 articles for you coco guys that I feel will help you both understand the principles of coco and how to water it depending on your specific grow setups. It will explain your rising ppm.
In my coco grow I ended up feeding 14x a day


Great information! Thanks so much!
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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I’ll post 2 articles for you coco guys that I feel will help you both understand the principles of coco and how to water it depending on your specific grow setups. It will explain your rising ppm.
In my coco grow I ended up feeding 14x a day


Thank you for the reply. I've read over your articles/posts a number of times when I found this forum. Before that I was going strictly by the cocoforcannabis.com guide, which seems to correlate well. Until I got to flower, I had no issues with feeding and EC, and things went spectacularly well. See https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/explosive-growth-in-coco-coir.136487/

Before veg, I was seeing runoff EC lower that input, sometimes more than 400 points. I guess things were really sucking in the nutrients. Possibly michorrizae as well as coco sucking up cal/mag? Anyway, watered 4x daily and all was well.

Then flowering - a couple of things changed then. I dropped lights from 18/6 to 12/12, and I changed to flowering nutes (using GH, started with Foxfarm), and I started adding some H2O2 to the mix. Suddenly my runoff EC was higher than input, as much as 400 points. About this time I also added a 6-inch input duct fan running 24x7. Lots of air volume dumping in next to the Airpots keeping that area between 72 and 75F all day. I'm sure it's increased evaporation near the pots some.

I added a 5th then 6th, then 7th feeding. I started dropping input EC. I increased the amount per watering. In four #5 (3.5g) Airpots, I was getting 5-6 gallons of runoff each day, which seems like it must have been 7 g/day input based on how fast the reservoir had to be refilled. Even then my EC was higher! I ended up doing ecen more of a flush by simply running 7 gallons (all I had in the reservoir at the time) of water through my 4 plants until I ran it out. Then refilled with EC down 300 points. Finally ended up with runoff EC about 1000 with input EC about 1000. I've not figured out exactly why my EC kept rising, but I did find some anomalies.

For one, I'm not measuring correctly. I wait until the pots drain and the sump system spits out the runoff into a bucket. I measure the bucket, which has averaged the pots with each other and some of the previous runoff. But at least I get an ongoing average.

Second, I don't know what input I have. I didn't measure my halo drip system until late in the game, and I can't pull them out now (for measurements) because the trunks are too big. I pulled one briefly early in the grow and estimated something based on that. But now I just look at how often I fill the (30 gallon) reservoir. I'm putting in 5-7 gallons per day, and I'm getting at least 3 gallons of runoff. Usually EC is about 150-200 points higher than input now.

Third, what seems a huge issue that I've recently discovered. As the water level lowers in my reservoir, the amount of water coming out of the halos changes drastically. Possibly decreases by 2/3rds.

Fourth, after time I wasn't getting the same amount of input or runoff from each pot. Tweaked valves there, rubbed halo drip holes. (One reason for adding H2O2 was to control algae and possibly help clear halo drip holes.)

I seem to have found a happy medium with input around 1000 EC with 7x daily feedings, adding some extra watering here and there manually when the reservoir is low. Now I'm settling in with output EC around 1200 or less.
 
Aqua Man

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Thank you for the reply. I've read over your articles/posts a number of times when I found this forum. Before that I was going strictly by the cocoforcannabis.com guide, which seems to correlate well. Until I got to flower, I had no issues with feeding and EC, and things went spectacularly well. See https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/explosive-growth-in-coco-coir.136487/

Before veg, I was seeing runoff EC lower that input, sometimes more than 400 points. I guess things were really sucking in the nutrients. Possibly michorrizae as well as coco sucking up cal/mag? Anyway, watered 4x daily and all was well.

Then flowering - a couple of things changed then. I dropped lights from 18/6 to 12/12, and I changed to flowering nutes (using GH, started with Foxfarm), and I started adding some H2O2 to the mix. Suddenly my runoff EC was higher than input, as much as 400 points. About this time I also added a 6-inch input duct fan running 24x7. Lots of air volume dumping in next to the Airpots keeping that area between 72 and 75F all day. I'm sure it's increased evaporation near the pots some.

I added a 5th then 6th, then 7th feeding. I started dropping input EC. I increased the amount per watering. In four #5 (3.5g) Airpots, I was getting 5-6 gallons of runoff each day, which seems like it must have been 7 g/day input based on how fast the reservoir had to be refilled. Even then my EC was higher! I ended up doing ecen more of a flush by simply running 7 gallons (all I had in the reservoir at the time) of water through my 4 plants until I ran it out. Then refilled with EC down 300 points. Finally ended up with runoff EC about 1000 with input EC about 1000. I've not figured out exactly why my EC kept rising, but I did find some anomalies.

For one, I'm not measuring correctly. I wait until the pots drain and the sump system spits out the runoff into a bucket. I measure the bucket, which has averaged the pots with each other and some of the previous runoff. But at least I get an ongoing average.

Second, I don't know what input I have. I didn't measure my halo drip system until late in the game, and I can't pull them out now (for measurements) because the trunks are too big. I pulled one briefly early in the grow and estimated something based on that. But now I just look at how often I fill the (30 gallon) reservoir. I'm putting in 5-7 gallons per day, and I'm getting at least 3 gallons of runoff. Usually EC is about 150-200 points higher than input now.

Third, what seems a huge issue that I've recently discovered. As the water level lowers in my reservoir, the amount of water coming out of the halos changes drastically. Possibly decreases by 2/3rds.

Fourth, after time I wasn't getting the same amount of input or runoff from each pot. Tweaked valves there, rubbed halo drip holes. (One reason for adding H2O2 was to control algae and possibly help clear halo drip holes.)

I seem to have found a happy medium with input around 1000 EC with 7x daily feedings, adding some extra watering here and there manually when the reservoir is low. Now I'm settling in with output EC around 1200 or less.
Algae is not bad it’s a sign of a healthy system exposed to light. Once the plants shade it then it will go away.

the needs of water increase drastically after flip by as much as 4 times the amount at flip until the last week or 2 of flowering.

add an enzyme like hygrozyme or komplete to your feed it will majorly reduce any buildup and help rip that build up out of the media. Cut your feed concentration in half when you add it because all of a sudden you will have a massive release of availabile nutrients as is breaks them down into soluble ionic form. Use from start to finish to prevent build up and make sure your feeding often enough after flip even to often is far better once the plants are established.

A better method is to draw solution from the bottom inch of the pots with a syringe and test that for ph and ppm…. Far more accurate

possible add an auto top off unit or a larger res if possible. A wide shorter res or a more powerful pump will help with the water pressure to keep it more even. Basically you want the pump flow volume to exceed the end flow rate to ensure it stays even.

If your runoff is with 200 ppm or 20% I wouldn’t worry to much.
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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Algae is not bad it’s a sign of a healthy system exposed to light. Once the plants shade it then it will go away.
It actually came back a little. I was under the canopy looking closely (with a flashlight) and saw brown algae in the tubes. A drop of H2O2 in the tube ends took care of that. My main concern is keeping the drip openings clear.
the needs of water increase drastically after flip by as much as 4 times the amount at flip until the last week or 2 of flowering.

add an enzyme like hygrozyme or komplete to your feed it will majorly reduce any buildup and help rip that build up out of the media. Cut your feed concentration in half when you add it because all of a sudden you will have a massive release of availabile nutrients as is breaks them down into soluble ionic form. Use from start to finish to prevent build up and make sure your feeding often enough after flip even to often is far better once the plants are established.
Just ordered. Should be here in a couple of days.
A better method is to draw solution from the bottom inch of the pots with a syringe and test that for ph and ppm…. Far more accurate
Yes, but means me in the tent on the floor. Which means opening the 5 zippers on the Gorilla Grow tent doors and closing 5 zippers again later.
possible add an auto top off unit or a larger res if possible. A wide shorter res or a more powerful pump will help with the water pressure to keep it more even. Basically you want the pump flow volume to exceed the end flow rate to ensure it stays even.
I'm thinking of various schemes here, but am limited with space. I just doubled my reservoir to 30 gallons, which takes up almost all the space I have there now. Trying to figure out a way to incorporate the old 14-gallon tank as a top-up source. Not sure it's worth it though. I'm harvesting soon, and then I'll take down the whole shebang for the summer. I hope to be traveling off and on until October and can't leave a grow unattended for weeks at a time.
If your runoff is with 200 ppm or 20% I wouldn’t worry to much.
I've tried to get it there. At this point I've just lowered EC until I stopped seeing tip burn, though I have light burn issues for sure. EC now 950. About a 1/4 of that is cal/mag.
 
Aqua Man

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It actually came back a little. I was under the canopy looking closely (with a flashlight) and saw brown algae in the tubes. A drop of H2O2 in the tube ends took care of that. My main concern is keeping the drip openings clear.

Just ordered. Should be here in a couple of days.

Yes, but means me in the tent on the floor. Which means opening the 5 zippers on the Gorilla Grow tent doors and closing 5 zippers again later.

I'm thinking of various schemes here, but am limited with space. I just doubled my reservoir to 30 gallons, which takes up almost all the space I have there now. Trying to figure out a way to incorporate the old 14-gallon tank as a top-up source. Not sure it's worth it though. I'm harvesting soon, and then I'll take down the whole shebang for the summer. I hope to be traveling off and on until October and can't leave a grow unattended for weeks at a time.

I've tried to get it there. At this point I've just lowered EC until I stopped seeing tip burn, though I have light burn issues for sure. EC now 950. About a 1/4 of that is cal/mag.
Yeah lower the EC is viable as long as you are bringing the number in and they are not drying out. Always more than one solution and that’s the great part about cannabis.

the brown stuff is diatoms it’s harmless so long as it’s not plugging anything. They feed on silica for the most part
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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add an enzyme like hygrozyme or komplete to your feed it will majorly reduce any buildup and help rip that build up out of the media. Cut your feed concentration in half when you add it because all of a sudden you will have a massive release of availabile nutrients as is breaks them down into soluble ionic form. Use from start to finish to prevent build up and make sure your feeding often enough after flip even to often is far better once the plants are established.
OK, I've got my bottle oh Hygrozyme in hand. But I'm a bit unclear (and worried) about how to apply it.

Here's the situation. I have a 30 gallon reservoir currently about half full. EC is at 950, which I've lowered from around 1200-1300 to try to lower runoff EC. Runoff EC is currently 1350 and has pretty much maintained that for a couple of days. 7x daily watering with runoff. 4 plants in 3.5 gallon Airpots, and at the end of the day I usually have 4 gallons of runoff. From 5-7 gallons of input, I think.

So - what to do at this point. I could add 15 gallons of RO water right now to dilute my nutes by half. And then just feed the entire reservoir normally, over several days? I'm just about 8 weeks into flower. Or, do I figure out how to do this in less than 30 gallons of water, so I can flush quickly and refill the reservoir with EC 1000 nutes?

How much Hygrozyme should I add to the 30 gallon reservoir, assuming it is full?
 
Aqua Man

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OK, I've got my bottle oh Hygrozyme in hand. But I'm a bit unclear (and worried) about how to apply it.

Here's the situation. I have a 30 gallon reservoir currently about half full. EC is at 950, which I've lowered from around 1200-1300 to try to lower runoff EC. Runoff EC is currently 1350 and has pretty much maintained that for a couple of days. 7x daily watering with runoff. 4 plants in 3.5 gallon Airpots, and at the end of the day I usually have 4 gallons of runoff. From 5-7 gallons of input, I think.

So - what to do at this point. I could add 15 gallons of RO water right now to dilute my nutes by half. And then just feed the entire reservoir normally, over several days? I'm just about 8 weeks into flower. Or, do I figure out how to do this in less than 30 gallons of water, so I can flush quickly and refill the reservoir with EC 1000 nutes?

How much Hygrozyme should I add to the 30 gallon reservoir, assuming it is full?
8 weeks into flower on a how many week strain?
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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8 weeks into flower on a how many week strain?
Was thinking about posting about that.... I'm growing Sour Diesel from seed, and it's supposed to be an 11-week strain. But here in week 8, 3 of the 4 plants just more-or-less suddenly had all the white pistils go brown and curl. The 4th seems a day or two behind. Given that one can't really trust the heritage of a lot of cannabis seeds, what's to say I have a non-8-week varietal? The trichomes are moving on from clear, but few ambers, at least few two days ago when I looked closely. (Getting out the microscope next.)

That said, I am either in the stage where I should be flushing (whatever that means in coco), or close to it. Certainly I've been in the bud-fattening stage for a couple of weeks. Most new growth has been below the top of the top buds, and especially through the canopy.

Reservoir is down to 8-10 gallons now, and the H2O2 I added is over 3 days old now. It would be easy flush a few gallons, then add some hygrozyme and dilute with more RO water for a few feedings rather than a whole week's worth at that EC.

Which leads to the question of what minimum additives I should put into RO water for a coco coir flush? Nothing? Bit of cal/mag? Something to buffer the pH?
 
Aqua Man

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Was thinking about posting about that.... I'm growing Sour Diesel from seed, and it's supposed to be an 11-week strain. But here in week 8, 3 of the 4 plants just more-or-less suddenly had all the white pistils go brown and curl. The 4th seems a day or two behind. Given that one can't really trust the heritage of a lot of cannabis seeds, what's to say I have a non-8-week varietal? The trichomes are moving on from clear, but few ambers, at least few two days ago when I looked closely. (Getting out the microscope next.)

That said, I am either in the stage where I should be flushing (whatever that means in coco), or close to it. Certainly I've been in the bud-fattening stage for a couple of weeks. Most new growth has been below the top of the top buds, and especially through the canopy.

Reservoir is down to 8-10 gallons now, and the H2O2 I added is over 3 days old now. It would be easy flush a few gallons, then add some hygrozyme and dilute with more RO water for a few feedings rather than a whole week's worth at that EC.

Which leads to the question of what minimum additives I should put into RO water for a coco coir flush? Nothing? Bit of cal/mag? Something to buffer the pH?
Ok so pics will help determine stage. Senescence is a normal part of the cycle so you may not be seeing any real issues that are not natural but I kinda feel like there are some.

h202 needs dosed min every 3 days that water is standing and not used. Imo you don’t need it if your res is being used up in 3 days.

Don’t flush with straight RO maybe 1/4 dose of cal mag and a touch of epsom salt if you like. Ppm around 200-300. Reason being is you need some salinity.
When you do this first run with hygrozyme use full dose but only 1/4 strength nutes.

hiw much are they drinking a day? Still very heavy or are they slowing down a bit?
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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Ok so pics will help determine stage. Senescence is a normal part of the cycle so you may not be seeing any real issues that are not natural but I kinda feel like there are some.
I posted some yesterday in another (of many) threads I'm in. I'll work at it today more diligently, using the Nikon.

I know I burned some upper leaves, which were getting very yellow and brown-spotted. I decided to trim them all off yesterday, in case they might start attracting some sort of pests. Figured they'd done their job shading lower areas, but it was time to brighten those areas up again anyway. Light distance very short to the problem leaves - all the yellow leaves were fan leaves at the top.

I guess it would be good to note that none of the many lower fan leaves have yellowed. It's a bushy, green, thick canopy. With buds developing all the way down to the pot on one plant I can't reach.
h202 needs dosed min every 3 days that water is standing and not used. Imo you don’t need it if your res is being used up in 3 days.
More like 5 days now. I probably should have been keeping track.
Don’t flush with straight RO maybe 1/4 dose of cal mag and a touch of epsom salt if you like. Ppm around 200-300. Reason being is you need some salinity.
That sounds like my tap water... Nothing like humic acid, which might help get the pH down? Not quite sure what a 1/4 dose is, but probably 0.5ml/g compared to what I've been doing.
When you do this first run with hygrozyme use full dose but only 1/4 strength nutes.
OK. The easy way to do that is probably to feed some water out of the res, then estimate the remaining water volume and dump in a bucket or so of RO until the EC drops to ... 250ish.
hiw much are they drinking a day? Still very heavy or are they slowing down a bit?
How can I tell? I'm pumping so much water through to get enough runoff to lower EC (which is still 300-400 higher than input) that I get 4 gallons of runoff each day. Since I only put in a 30 gallon reservoir a couple weeks ago, I don't have a good feel for how much it's using per day now. And since the flow rate varies so much between full and empty reservoir, my runoff amounts also vary tremendously.

Just observing the plants, my impression is that they are still growing pretty strong below the top of the canopy. At the top, the buds are just swelling, and I don't have enough experience to tell what is normal for them. (Are they foxtailing? Don't think so, but they seem to have had spurts of growth and stops. New white pistils are generally on the bottom side of the top buds. Perhaps that is due to being blasted with 1000PPFD/PAR at 12-14 inches from the light, but the edge buds also just started browning. The lowest fan leaves are still all green though, buds are heavy, and if anything smell is perhaps peaked.

I'll get more pictures, and I'll prep the res.
 
Aqua Man

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I posted some yesterday in another (of many) threads I'm in. I'll work at it today more diligently, using the Nikon.

I know I burned some upper leaves, which were getting very yellow and brown-spotted. I decided to trim them all off yesterday, in case they might start attracting some sort of pests. Figured they'd done their job shading lower areas, but it was time to brighten those areas up again anyway. Light distance very short to the problem leaves - all the yellow leaves were fan leaves at the top.

I guess it would be good to note that none of the many lower fan leaves have yellowed. It's a bushy, green, thick canopy. With buds developing all the way down to the pot on one plant I can't reach.

More like 5 days now. I probably should have been keeping track.

That sounds like my tap water... Nothing like humic acid, which might help get the pH down? Not quite sure what a 1/4 dose is, but probably 0.5ml/g compared to what I've been doing.

OK. The easy way to do that is probably to feed some water out of the res, then estimate the remaining water volume and dump in a bucket or so of RO until the EC drops to ... 250ish.

How can I tell? I'm pumping so much water through to get enough runoff to lower EC (which is still 300-400 higher than input) that I get 4 gallons of runoff each day. Since I only put in a 30 gallon reservoir a couple weeks ago, I don't have a good feel for how much it's using per day now. And since the flow rate varies so much between full and empty reservoir, my runoff amounts also vary tremendously.

Just observing the plants, my impression is that they are still growing pretty strong below the top of the canopy. At the top, the buds are just swelling, and I don't have enough experience to tell what is normal for them. (Are they foxtailing? Don't think so, but they seem to have had spurts of growth and stops. New white pistils are generally on the bottom side of the top buds. Perhaps that is due to being blasted with 1000PPFD/PAR at 12-14 inches from the light, but the edge buds also just started browning. The lowest fan leaves are still all green though, buds are heavy, and if anything smell is perhaps peaked.

I'll get more pictures, and I'll prep the res.
To much light, heat and any pistil you touch will brown. Depending on genetics you can see waves of new white pistils so it’s not something to worry about. But high nitrogen ratios in finish will extend flower time and can contribute to that
 
phxazcraig

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To much light, heat and any pistil you touch will brown. Depending on genetics you can see waves of new white pistils so it’s not something to worry about. But high nitrogen ratios in finish will extend flower time and can contribute to that
Hmm. I've been following the GH nute chart for 'late bloom' for about 3 weeks. Cuts N, and everything else too. But you make sense. I think I've had some waves of growth related to refilling the reservoir and getting excess amounts of water pumped through when it was full. (Sure wish I had a positive displacement water pump of some kind. It strikes me that everything I've done in this grow has been pretty well controlled and consistent - except for the amount of water being fed. )

Anyway, here's what I've just done. I first ran my water pump for about 45 seconds to check flow and drain the reservoir down. Got it down to an estimated 8 gallons. (I picked up the res and guessed it to be about 40 pounds.) The EC was at 980. I then added a bunch of RO water, getting it up to an estimated 20 gallons. EC dropped to 320 and I figured that was good enough. (Runoff EC from the heavy watering was 1350.) I did rub the bottom of the halos to unclog some holes too - there had been some uneven distribution.

Figuring I was around 20 gallons, I mixed up 40ml and tossed it into the reservoir. Next watering happens in an hour.

I took a few macro shots of 4-5 buds that I could get close to. Toward center, and at the edge. I think all of them showed clear trichomes. No amber to speak of, little cloudiness.

Looking at top buds, they are really swollen, and the swelling goes about a foot down. Below that they are still developing.

No 'naturally looking yellowed' leaves are appearing on the plant. The only yellow I see are on distressed leaves close to the light. Most of which I clipped yesterday.

Under the canopy is where it seems most interesting, but there is so little light there I have to use a flashlight to see! But I have small, frosty (FROSTY!!!) buds all over, and the higher they are, the heavier they are. I need to properly light things for photography...

All in all, I'm thinking maybe I really do have 2-3 more weeks. At least one more for sure.
 
Aqua Man

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Hmm. I've been following the GH nute chart for 'late bloom' for about 3 weeks. Cuts N, and everything else too. But you make sense. I think I've had some waves of growth related to refilling the reservoir and getting excess amounts of water pumped through when it was full. (Sure wish I had a positive displacement water pump of some kind. It strikes me that everything I've done in this grow has been pretty well controlled and consistent - except for the amount of water being fed. )

Anyway, here's what I've just done. I first ran my water pump for about 45 seconds to check flow and drain the reservoir down. Got it down to an estimated 8 gallons. (I picked up the res and guessed it to be about 40 pounds.) The EC was at 980. I then added a bunch of RO water, getting it up to an estimated 20 gallons. EC dropped to 320 and I figured that was good enough. (Runoff EC from the heavy watering was 1350.) I did rub the bottom of the halos to unclog some holes too - there had been some uneven distribution.

Figuring I was around 20 gallons, I mixed up 40ml and tossed it into the reservoir. Next watering happens in an hour.

I took a few macro shots of 4-5 buds that I could get close to. Toward center, and at the edge. I think all of them showed clear trichomes. No amber to speak of, little cloudiness.

Looking at top buds, they are really swollen, and the swelling goes about a foot down. Below that they are still developing.

No 'naturally looking yellowed' leaves are appearing on the plant. The only yellow I see are on distressed leaves close to the light. Most of which I clipped yesterday.

Under the canopy is where it seems most interesting, but there is so little light there I have to use a flashlight to see! But I have small, frosty (FROSTY!!!) buds all over, and the higher they are, the heavier they are. I need to properly light things for photography...

All in all, I'm thinking maybe I really do have 2-3 more weeks. At least one more for sure.
Yeah so I’d cut the cal mag to half and feed about 500ppm if nutrients. Say starting water is 150 then bring it up to 200 with cal mag and then 700 ppm with nutrients
 
Buzzzz

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It actually came back a little. I was under the canopy looking closely (with a flashlight) and saw brown algae in the tubes. A drop of H2O2 in the tube ends took care of that. My main concern is keeping the drip openings clear.

Just ordered. Should be here in a couple of days.

Yes, but means me in the tent on the floor. Which means opening the 5 zippers on the Gorilla Grow tent doors and closing 5 zippers again later.

I'm thinking of various schemes here, but am limited with space. I just doubled my reservoir to 30 gallons, which takes up almost all the space I have there now. Trying to figure out a way to incorporate the old 14-gallon tank as a top-up source. Not sure it's worth it though. I'm harvesting soon, and then I'll take down the whole shebang for the summer. I hope to be traveling off and on until October and can't leave a grow unattended for weeks at a time.

I've tried to get it there. At this point I've just lowered EC until I stopped seeing tip burn, though I have light burn issues for sure. EC now 950. About a 1/4 of that is cal/mag.
when i used to grow hydro ,the emitters would clog, i wrapped a nylon stocking around the pump,later on i just removed the emitters completely and put a valve inline for each table or tube etc,and it made no difference in growth in nft,rocks or any other medium,just stating what worked for me,I also dispensed with buying pre made nutrients and bought the salts in bulk and mixed and labeled a&b and epsom salts and added a litre of well water for trace elements.
 
phxazcraig

phxazcraig

519
93
Yeah so I’d cut the cal mag to half and feed about 500ppm if nutrients. Say starting water is 150 then bring it up to 200 with cal mag and then 700 ppm with nutrients
I've got about 20 gallons of EC 320 to get through at this point. (My original mix diluted from about 1000.) I can manually pump all that through or let it go through the usual every-2-hour feedings until it's gone.

First watering runoff dropped to 1280, so a little progress there. How long before the Hygrozyme makes a difference, if any?
 
jguit

jguit

Supporter
906
143
@phxazcraig, to make it less confusing you should express EC in millisiemens instead of micro. It's easy to confuse microsiemens for ppm and most people talk in 'milli' when dealing with EC.

It's easy to confuse 320 µS with 320 ppm. 0.3 EC, not so confusing.. haha
 
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