Ner0z said:

Thx mate I'm always down to spend less in nutes. Currently I'm just following the general hydroponics website feed chart. I'd love to learn how to get away from that and add nutrients via ppm value, I just don't know how much ppm of each to add yet (ie Calmag micro grow bloom individually)

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Its not about spending less but more about feeding the plants needs and want.
Day 58 from seed and 2 days before flip

Ro water at 70 ppm to start, Gh 3 part cal mag ph down potassium bicarbonate is all thet get in my 4 site 13 gal current culture the 15, 30 and 45 are cc's added at the ratios recommended.
Plants are eating around 80 ppms per day

Excellent info thanks guys, the tip burn was getting getting a little excessive so I've scaled it back with 10 gallons of straight RO brought me back down to 510ppm. Ill definitely add my nutrient water to the res separately to hit the right ppm mark going forward and rely less on feed charts. Yall have helped me a bunch, now if only I could get my veg times right to avoid this lmao

Ner0z said:

Excellent info thanks guys, the tip burn was getting getting a little excessive so I've scaled it back with 10 gallons of straight RO brought me back down to 510ppm. Ill definitely add my nutrient water to the res separately to hit the right ppm mark going forward and rely less on feed charts. Yall have helped me a bunch, now if only I could get my veg times right to avoid this lmaoView attachment 1139426

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Hey man, the best advice i can give for veg times is to flip them as soon as their leaf tips are touching. Once the leaves on each plant are touching the plants beside it, thats when you flip to flower. By the time the stretch is done, (and IF you use a screen/LST) you should have a nice flat and uniform canopy. Then its just a matter of moving bud sites around and defoliating.

DreamwalkerJ said:

Hey man, the best advice i can give for veg times is to flip them as soon as their leaf tips are touching. Once the leaves on each plant are touching the plants beside it, thats when you flip to flower. By the time the stretch is done, (and IF you use a screen/LST) you should have a nice flat and uniform canopy. Then its just a matter of moving bud sites around and defoliating.

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Rodger that. I thought that's where I was at after 5 weeks of veg. I flipped at the first scrog net but the stretch on these was ridiculous. Any suggestions on how to reduce the stretch like pre flip topping or 24hr darkness? Do you guys find 24hrs dark helps the transition?

Ner0z said:

Rodger that. I thought that's where I was at after 5 weeks of veg. I flipped at the first scrog net but the stretch on these was ridiculous. Any suggestions on how to reduce the stretch like pre flip topping or 24hr darkness? Do you guys find 24hrs dark helps the transition?

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Ive done the 24hr darkness thing and honestly didnt notice any difference. 1 thing you can do to decrease stretch is to limit the IR light. When the lower areas of the plant are getting IR light but not much else, that signals to the plant that it needs to grow taller to reach better light. Some stretch is good as you want that space between nodes to allow big buds to grow, but thats why we recommend that you veg until the plants are 1/2 as big as you want them because the stretch usually doubles the plant size. So grow to half the size you want and when the leaf tips touch, flip em. 1 thing that i personally found to decrease the stretch was when i started flowering under my metal halide. Switch to flower but kept them on metal halide for 10 days and then switched to HPS. Then back to MH for the last 10 days before harvest. Having the blues at the start of flower decreased my stretch, i believe, and using the MH + UV for the last 10-14 days really ramps up your trichome/resin production to another level.

Dang them roots are not growing. Looks like over feeding too soon as the plant is still little. I’d think testing with 200-450 ppm with RO for now then when roots start to spread then add more ppms? Everything else seems legit. Just my thoughts.

Teslajuana said:

Dang them roots are not growing. Looks like over feeding too soon as the plant is still little. I’d think testing with 200-450 ppm with RO for now then when roots start to spread then add more ppms? Everything else seems legit. Just my thoughts.

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Nitrogen inhibits root growth. You need it to build thick strong structural grown and you really nees it in flower too, but very early on in retards root growth. Phosphorus will help them grow with some potassium. In fact if you pay attention, a lot of the early seedling/clone nutrients are basically watered down bloom nutes..