Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

Takid · Aug 28, 2024

Hello.
I'm a newbie any help will be welcome.
My tap water is 67 ppm and has a pH 7.5.
I use BioBizz nutrients.
With every watering I am adding 0.3ml/l CalMag as instructed on BioBizz chart.
I noticed that after adding CalMag and letting the solution sit for a few hours the pH rises, so I let it sit and then adjust the pH to around 6.5. I use a spray bottle not to over water.
After around 1.5 week the leaves started to twist, slightly.
Now they are more twisted and the bottom leaves start to yellow. Some of the leaves tips looks dropped. The plant on the picture has just been watered.
This is my second grow. I had same issues with previous one and the leaves continued to yellow and develop some spots/necrosis. They where dying pretty badly. At flower the whole plants were dying This grow starts to looks like the previous one from beggining and I'm worried. I'm posting pics of a new grow.
Will anyone help to diagnose those early symptoms?

GrowingWithMisa · Aug 28, 2024

Start of root bound, maybe transplanting will fix it. At least from my experience

Takid · Aug 28, 2024

GrowingWithMisa said:
Start of root bound, maybe transplanting will fix it. At least from my experience

I'm a about to transplant the plant tomorrow. I just didn't have the time last few days.
The plants in a previous grow looked exactly the same with the twisted leaves and everything but they where straight in a final 11l pot from seed.

GrowingWithMisa · Aug 28, 2024

Many factor can cause that. Wrong Ph, high heat, high humidity, nutrient toxicity etc

AZreefer · Aug 28, 2024

Talk us through your watering habits

Takid · Aug 28, 2024

I think my water is classed as soft so I follow BioBizz chart when it comes to adding CalMag(and everything else). So for seedling stage I give them 0.3ml/l calmag from start. I add CalMag and then I let the water sit for a few hours. Then adjust pH to 6.5.
When the plants are young I use spray bottle. I wet the soil at the top. Maybe give a little bit more around, closer to the pot. But I don't think I over water them at this stage. Pot has drainage holes. I water them when the soil is dry in touch. I put my finger in the soil to make sure it's dry deeper aswell.
I don't soak the whole pot just spray them from top. I start normal watering later on when the plant is a bit bigger. Temp is 22 Celsius and humidity around 65. Tried different light height but it's just the same. The only difference is the plant started to stretch bit more. For small plants I'm using BioBizz lightmix soil

AZreefer · Aug 28, 2024

And this is a persistent issue across multiple grows? The last ones looked the same you say?

AZreefer · Aug 28, 2024

I'm a newbie also I'm just trying to bump your thread and get enough info for the experienced problem solvers. They are normally here by now. Must be busy with life today.

Takid · Aug 28, 2024

Yes, the last ones looked exactly the same. I will repot it and give it a few days..

Newty · Aug 28, 2024

Sorry if I missed it but are you growing in soil and if so what kind?

Is biobizz organic?

If you're growing in soil, I see your changing the ph of your water but are you changing the ph of your soil? Slurry test or a tester specifically for soil ph is required.
I ask because changing the ph of your water will not change the ph of your soil, depending on what you're putting into your water.
Most good soils are going to have buffers anyways.

How big is the pot you're currently using compared to a solo cup?
Did you have the seedling in the same size pot/cup as your last grow? Were the roots dense and did they fill up most of the pot?

Takid · Aug 28, 2024

I'm growing in BioBizz light mix soil. This will be transplanted to BioBizz AllMix soil, which has more amendments.

Yes, BioBizz is organic.

On previous grow I made a slurry test twice (later on when the plant was bigger) and pH was 5.9. I checked twice. Every time on a different plant. I will do slurry test for the plant on pictures while repotting.

I do not change the soil pH. Not sure how to do it either. With top dressing or something?
I only adjust the feed solution to 6-6.5.

The pot where the plant is now is the size of 3 to 4 solo cups.

The plants at previous grow were autos and I germinated them straight in final, 11 liter pots. So I never transplanted them.

Newty · Aug 29, 2024

Takid said:
I'm growing in BioBizz light mix soil. This will be transplanted to BioBizz AllMix soil, which has more amendments.

Yes, BioBizz is organic.

On previous grow I made a slurry test twice (later on when the plant was bigger) and pH was 5.9. I checked twice. Every time on a different plant. I will do slurry test for the plant on pictures while repotting.

I do not change the soil pH. Not sure how to do it either. With top dressing or something?
I only adjust the feed solution to 6-6.5.

The pot where the plant is now is the size of 3 to 4 solo cups.

The plants at previous grow were autos and I germinated them straight in final, 11 liter pots. So I never transplanted them.

What I was getting at with the water and soil ph is that depending on what elements are in the water, if it doesn't change the soil ph then changing the ph of the water is not actually doing anything. Hydro, it would be a different story.

Ok so you said it happened last grow as well but you were growing an Auto and it was in a bigger pot at the time, that would rule out root bound on the last grow. Doesn't mean that it isn't the same symptom for different issues.

Did you use the spray bottle for the Autos as well? Any chance that water could of made it onto the leaves, even the underside, and caused it twist as they grew?

Is biobizz soil nutrient rich? The soil I use has the nutrients in it to carry the plant to 4-6 weeks, maybe feeding so early is causing a toxicity?

Beachbumm · Aug 29, 2024

Takid said:
I'm growing in BioBizz light mix soil. This will be transplanted to BioBizz AllMix soil, which has more amendments.

Yes, BioBizz is organic.

On previous grow I made a slurry test twice (later on when the plant was bigger) and pH was 5.9. I checked twice. Every time on a different plant. I will do slurry test for the plant on pictures while repotting.

I do not change the soil pH. Not sure how to do it either. With top dressing or something?
I only adjust the feed solution to 6-6.5.

The pot where the plant is now is the size of 3 to 4 solo cups.

The plants at previous grow were autos and I germinated them straight in final, 11 liter pots. So I never transplanted them.

Change soil pH w/ dolomite

Re: previous grow, 5.9 is too low, whenever soil or peat-based products like biobizz pH goes below 6.0 lockouts start.

Not rootbound. What I see is chronic overwatering. Stop with the spray bottle!

Water the entire pot until 20% run off, and then don't water it again until it completely dries out.

Takid · Aug 29, 2024

Newty, solution pH rises after I add CalMag. That's why I let the solution sit for a while before phing.
Yes. I was spraying autos aswell.
I am very careful not to spray water over the top of the leaves but yeah, I would think some water probably got to underside of leaves. Can that cause twisting?

Beachbumm, thank you, I will try to improve my watering as you suggested.

Is it a good idea to amend new soil with some dolomitic lime? Can that do any harm?

HerbalEdu · Aug 29, 2024

Takid said:
When the plants are young I use spray bottle. I wet the soil at the top. Maybe give a little bit more around, closer to the pot. But I don't think I over water them at this stage. Pot has drainage holes. I water them when the soil is dry in touch. I put my finger in the soil to make sure it's dry deeper aswell.
I don't soak the whole pot just spray them from top. I start normal watering later on when the plant is a bit bigger. Temp is 22 Celsius and humidity around 65. Tried different light height but it's just the same. The only difference is the plant started to stretch bit more. For small plants I'm using BioBizz lightmix soil

"I don't soak the whole pot just spray them from top."

moist the damn whole soil !!! till a little run off.... (too dry soil may take some time to remoist evenly)
roots won't thrive in either permanently too wet or too dry soil.

biobizz light mix is perfeclty fine with just water for the first weeks of growth ...

your issue here is most prolly unproper watering pratice.

proper wet dry cycle for the soil is key ...

( i start my seeds directly in all-mix in their final 6L pots )

the yellowing of first lower and bottom leaves may be the sign you can start give them a little bio-grow or better up pot with all-mix, or too little light also cause light stress.

on a side note what's your light source, lamp or window will ? if windowwill this could be symptom of too little light.

Newty · Aug 29, 2024

Takid said:
Newty, solution pH rises after I add CalMag. That's why I let the solution sit for a while before phing.

Right but what I'm saying is your solution ph does not matter if it can not change the soil ph so changing it is doing nothing for you plants.

I would not be adding any lime or anything to your soil unless you know what the ph is already, trying to adjust it without knowing is not a good idea.

Your soil should have buffers so IMO testing and adjusting is not necessary unless a major issue is developing.

Quick video about living soil, water and ph

Beachbumm · Aug 29, 2024

Takid said:
Newty, solution pH rises after I add CalMag. That's why I let the solution sit for a while before phing.
Yes. I was spraying autos aswell.
I am very careful not to spray water over the top of the leaves but yeah, I would think some water probably got to underside of leaves. Can that cause twisting?

Beachbumm, thank you, I will try to improve my watering as you suggested.

Is it a good idea to amend new soil with some dolomitic lime? Can that do any harm?

To be clear, Low soil pH is NOT likely your issue at this phase of growth, it takes 4 to 6 weeks before you'll notice pH changing in pre-buffered soil or peat-based medium.

Over & improper watering (and a bit overfed) appear to be your current issues.

Offhand I believe I added one level tablespoon dolomite per gallon of soil to my ffof & pro mix but don't quote me, I'll look it up & post it before the day is over.

You can also use dolomite to raise your soil PH by watering it in at any point. Dolomite is something you want in your arsenal, but too much can also be a problem

Also use pH of 6.8, not 6.5

Newty · Aug 29, 2024

GrowingWithMisa · Aug 29, 2024

Newty said:
View attachment 2258480

Good stuff here

Beachbumm · Aug 29, 2024

GrowingWithMisa said:
Good stuff here

Beachbumm said:
To be clear, Low soil pH is NOT likely your issue at this phase of growth, it takes 4 to 6 weeks before you'll notice pH changing in pre-buffered soil or peat-based medium.

Over & improper watering (and a bit overfed) appear to be your current issues.

Offhand I believe I added one level tablespoon dolomite per gallon of soil to my ffof & pro mix but don't quote me, I'll look it up & post it before the day is over.

You can also use dolomite to raise your soil PH by watering it in at any point. Dolomite is something you want in your arsenal, but too much can also be a problem

Also use pH of 6.8, not 6.5

I add one level tablespoon per gallon of soil to Fox Farm Ocean Forest

However the time I added that amount to pro-mix my pH was too high and I had an issue, so I don't recommend adding dolomite to promix initially, and I've never used biobizz so I can't advise you about that.

However you can always raise your soil PH in any non-hydroponic medium by dissolving a level tablespoon of dolomite into one gallon of water. Best wishes

Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

Takid

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Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

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