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Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

  • Thread starter Thread starter Takid
  • Start date Start date Aug 28, 2024
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Newbie problem. Yellowing dying leaves

Takid Aug 28, 2024 62 Replies 6,500 Views
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Takid

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#21
Thank you all for your replies it helps a lot.
So today I've put the plant in a new, 11l fabric pot. I used BioBizz all mix soil and added 10% worm castings. While doing that I took some soil from the bottom of the old pot and made a slurry test. For the test I used the remains of my distilled water. 1 ppm and pH 5.9.
After doing the slurry test using this water I got a pH 6.4.
So, Should I guess that the pH of soil in a small pot was around 6.9?

Ok so I will try to change my watering. I just have a question. From when do you start saturating the whole soil in the pot? I mean, imagine you put a tiny seedling in 10l pot and water till run off. That would never dry out. I just moved that plant to a final 11l pot. I saturated the new soil a little while transplanting. How should I water it after it dries completely? Till run off? Is it not going to die? It's quite a big pot for a small plant I think. Could you clarify this?
Also, when should I start fertilizing after transplanting to all mix? I understand there is some nutrients in the new soil already, but also what I put in the ground takes time to become plant available. Should I feed the plant next watering or wait?

I'm growing under LED light.

So from what I understand my solution can't change the soil pH because it's not "buffered" enough. Whatever the solutions pH will be, the soil will buffer it and manage the ph anyway.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
If so, then where is the limit? Can I water the plant with pH 7.5 water? 8? 5?

My tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I add 0.3ml/l BioBizz CalMag. That's what the biobizz chart says for "soft" water for weeks 1-3 as far as I can remember.

This is what I do exactly.
Plain tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I let it sit for 24h. I add CalMag. Water comes out with around 100ppm and pH 7.7-7.8. I add a few drops BioBizz pH down and adjust it at 6.5. I go to work. When I come back the pH sits at 6.7-6.9 so I adjust it back at 6.5 and then water the plant.
Is it all pointless? Can I just add CalMag and water with pH 7.7-7-8? Or should I adjust it at pH 6.8 like Beachbumm suggested?
Also, is it good that I add CalMag with every watering? At some point I was thinking maybe I'm adding too much CalMag..
Lol that's a lot of questions sorry but I'm finding some of the things a bit confusing.

I will keep the dolomitic lime for later on if I have any issues.
Thank you all for help!
 
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Mothman

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#22
Takid said:
I will keep the dolomitic lime for later on if I have any issues.
Click to expand...
Like @Beachbumm, I’m a dolomite lime true believer. I also front load my soil mix (Happy Frog mostly) with powdered dolomite lime.

I’m mixing in about 1/4 cup dolomite for each 2 gallons of peat mix. (So a 2 cf bag of FFHF is ~10 gal; it would get 1.25 cups of dolomite.)

I like that it’ll be ready when the plant starts digging deep for calcium, but also it buffers my soil mix to ~6.5 so on watering days I just water with unadjusted municipal water. I like easy!
 
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Beachbumm

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#23
Mothman said:
Like @Beachbumm, I’m a dolomite lime true believer. I also front load my soil mix (Happy Frog mostly) with powdered dolomite lime.

I’m mixing in about 1/4 cup dolomite for each 2 gallons of peat mix. (So a 2 cf bag of FFHF is ~10 gal; it would get 1.25 cups of dolomite.)

I like that it’ll be ready when the plant starts digging deep for calcium, but also it buffers my soil mix to ~6.5 so on watering days I just water with unadjusted municipal water. I like easy!
Click to expand...
Exactly, once I started adding it I never worried about low soil PH and the issues that it caused ever again!
 
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Beachbumm

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#24
Takid said:
Thank you all for your replies it helps a lot.
So today I've put the plant in a new, 11l fabric pot. I used BioBizz all mix soil and added 10% worm castings. While doing that I took some soil from the bottom of the old pot and made a slurry test. For the test I used the remains of my distilled water. 1 ppm and pH 5.9.
After doing the slurry test using this water I got a pH 6.4.
So, Should I guess that the pH of soil in a small pot was around 6.9?

Ok so I will try to change my watering. I just have a question. From when do you start saturating the whole soil in the pot? I mean, imagine you put a tiny seedling in 10l pot and water till run off. That would never dry out. I just moved that plant to a final 11l pot. I saturated the new soil a little while transplanting. How should I water it after it dries completely? Till run off? Is it not going to die? It's quite a big pot for a small plant I think. Could you clarify this?
Also, when should I start fertilizing after transplanting to all mix? I understand there is some nutrients in the new soil already, but also what I put in the ground takes time to become plant available. Should I feed the plant next watering or wait?

I'm growing under LED light.

So from what I understand my solution can't change the soil pH because it's not "buffered" enough. Whatever the solutions pH will be, the soil will buffer it and manage the ph anyway.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
If so, then where is the limit? Can I water the plant with pH 7.5 water? 8? 5?

My tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I add 0.3ml/l BioBizz CalMag. That's what the biobizz chart says for "soft" water for weeks 1-3 as far as I can remember.

This is what I do exactly.
Plain tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I let it sit for 24h. I add CalMag. Water comes out with around 100ppm and pH 7.7-7.8. I add a few drops BioBizz pH down and adjust it at 6.5. I go to work. When I come back the pH sits at 6.7-6.9 so I adjust it back at 6.5 and then water the plant.
Is it all pointless? Can I just add CalMag and water with pH 7.7-7-8? Or should I adjust it at pH 6.8 like Beachbumm suggested?
Also, is it good that I add CalMag with every watering? At some point I was thinking maybe I'm adding too much CalMag..
Lol that's a lot of questions sorry but I'm finding some of the things a bit confusing.

I will keep the dolomitic lime for later on if I have any issues.
Thank you all for help!
Click to expand...
6.7-6.9 is perfect, stop lowering it.
 
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GrowingWithMisa

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#25
I believe promix hp comes with dolomite lime in it if I'm not mistaken
 
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Takid

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#26
So, maybe I should add some dolomitic lime..
Beachbumm. I get pH of 6.7-6.9 after I already lower it once. Before using any pH down the pH sits at about 7.7 (after adding CalMag). Lower it once and leave it at 6.7-6-9? I take it pH 7.7 is too high?
 
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Beachbumm

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#27
Takid said:
So, maybe I should add some dolomitic lime..
Beachbumm. I get pH of 6.7-6.9 after I already lower it once. Before using any pH down the pH sits at about 7.7 (after adding CalMag). Lower it once and leave it at 6.7-6-9? I take it pH 7.7 is too high?
Click to expand...
Yes, 7's are too high.

Use 6.8 for soil & peat based media
 
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Mothman

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#28
Beachbumm said:
Also use pH of 6.8, not 6.5
Click to expand...
Hey @Beachbumm, why are you hooked on 6.8 vs 6.5? I’ve always used an unofficial target of 6.5, and this lockout chart (from @Newty I think) suggests at 6.8 both Iron and Manganese are locked out. But at 6.5 nothing is locked out.
 

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Sunasun

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#29
Takid said:
Hello.
I'm a newbie any help will be welcome.
My tap water is 67 ppm and has a pH 7.5.
I use BioBizz nutrients.
With every watering I am adding 0.3ml/l CalMag as instructed on BioBizz chart.
I noticed that after adding CalMag and letting the solution sit for a few hours the pH rises, so I let it sit and then adjust the pH to around 6.5. I use a spray bottle not to over water.
After around 1.5 week the leaves started to twist, slightly.
Now they are more twisted and the bottom leaves start to yellow. Some of the leaves tips looks dropped. The plant on the picture has just been watered.
This is my second grow. I had same issues with previous one and the leaves continued to yellow and develop some spots/necrosis. They where dying pretty badly. At flower the whole plants were dying This grow starts to looks like the previous one from beggining and I'm worried. I'm posting pics of a new grow.
Will anyone help to diagnose those early symptoms?
Click to expand...
Stop spraying the soil, water all of the medium. For those 17 ounce cups, 4 ounces should be sufficient to saturate the medium.

Wait for pot to get light and then water again.
Good luck
 
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HerbalEdu

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#30
Takid said:
Ok so I will try to change my watering. I just have a question. From when do you start saturating the whole soil in the pot? I mean, imagine you put a tiny seedling in 10l pot and water till run off. That would never dry out. I just moved that plant to a final 11l pot. I saturated the new soil a little while transplanting. How should I water it after it dries completely? Till run off? Is it not going to die? It's quite a big pot for a small plant I think. Could you clarify this?
Also, when should I start fertilizing after transplanting to all mix? I understand there is some nutrients in the new soil already, but also what I put in the ground takes time to become plant available. Should I feed the plant next watering or wait?
Click to expand...

i start my seed directly in 6L pots after 2-4 days germination between cotton pads or paper towel.

At the time of transplant in soil i water gently (not to move the young seeds just transplanted) each 6L pots with 1L of water then i usually water with 0.5L every 7 days or so for 3 to 4 weeks, remoisting a little the whole soil sufrace then concentrating what remain of the water in circle around the trunk. After 3-4 weeks when the plant is big enough i start again watering with 1L every 4-6 days depending strain, seasons.

i usually start veg nutrient 4 week after germination, but it's more related to plant size relative to pot size than time spent since germination

Takid said:
I'm growing under LED light.

So from what I understand my solution can't change the soil pH because it's not "buffered" enough. Whatever the solutions pH will be, the soil will buffer it and manage the ph anyway.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
If so, then where is the limit? Can I water the plant with pH 7.5 water? 8? 5?

My tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I add 0.3ml/l BioBizz CalMag. That's what the biobizz chart says for "soft" water for weeks 1-3 as far as I can remember.

This is what I do exactly.
Plain tap water has 67 ppm and pH 7.5.
I let it sit for 24h. I add CalMag. Water comes out with around 100ppm and pH 7.7-7.8. I add a few drops BioBizz pH down and adjust it at 6.5. I go to work. When I come back the pH sits at 6.7-6.9 so I adjust it back at 6.5 and then water the plant.
Is it all pointless? Can I just add CalMag and water with pH 7.7-7-8? Or should I adjust it at pH 6.8 like Beachbumm suggested?
Also, is it good that I add CalMag with every watering? At some point I was thinking maybe I'm adding too much CalMag..
Lol that's a lot of questions sorry but I'm finding some of the things a bit confusing.

I will keep the dolomitic lime for later on if I have any issues.
Thank you all for help!
Click to expand...
you shouldn't need any ph adjustement with biobizz soils ... it stay within range or not too far, should be good enough.

my tap water is pH 8.5 i adjust roughly to 7 before mixing nuts (even if you should adjust after mixing nuts) with organic pH down (synthetic pH down may accumulate in the soil i think)

i have a friend with all mix as well that don't adjust her pH, and it work just fine. (tho i m not sure of her tap water pH as we're not in the same town but shouldn't be much different than mine)

also overall some bottles of the biobizz line are known to lower pH.
 
Last edited: Aug 30, 2024
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Beachbumm

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#31
Mothman said:
Hey @Beachbumm, why are you hooked on 6.8 vs 6.5? I’ve always used an unofficial target of 6.5, and this lockout chart (from @Newty I think) suggests at 6.8 both Iron and Manganese are locked out. But at 6.5 nothing is locked out.
Click to expand...

Mothman said:
Hey @Beachbumm, why are you hooked on 6.8 vs 6.5? I’ve always used an unofficial target of 6.5, and this lockout chart (from @Newty I think) suggests at 6.8 both Iron and Manganese are locked out. But at 6.5 nothing is locked out.
Click to expand...
Either will work, but pH drops fairly rapidly depending on certain factors

So an initial pH of 6.8 stays in the usable zone longer than pH set at 6.5

And now a question for you, is this the original Mothman from back in the day? If so good to see you again! Hope all is well
 
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Takid

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#32
Thank you. I will try to water as you say.
HerbalEdu can I ask you what temperature and humidity do you have in your grow space? Just to compare. More heat - more water used.
Also, this time I plan to veg the plant for 4 to 5 weeks. If I would start giving veg nutrients at week 4 and then flip the light to 12/12 at week 4.5 - 5, is the plant not going to have nitrogen deficiency during flower? When do you start giving them biobloom? Sorry I know I'm bombarding with questions. I just want to do it correctly this time. Also sorry for my English. I hope you can understand what I'm saying. English is not my native language :-)

I already replanted and never used any dolomitic lime. Can I just top dress with it? Should I be doing any topdressing at any time at all?
 
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HerbalEdu

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#33
i have two 2x3x6 (60x90x180) tents delayed each other from about 8 weeks or so, growing 8 plants in sog 6L pots, no topping no lst or whatsoever usually 5 weeks since germination before the flip.

temperature all year long is usually around 28°C to 32°C in autumn, winter, spring with some heat spike in summer. rh can vary from 20% to 80% depending daily weather and the seasons (i m rarely below 50% past mid flowering).

here the custom biobizz schedule i use, adjusted it over the years. I m having mixed result sometime all plants perfectly healthy to the end, sometime just a few pheno with some issues (not necessarily the same issues depending the pheno), and rarely i got some early fading with all plants mid to late flowering.

here's the custom schedule i use with all-mix soil if you want to compare with the official one:

 
Last edited: Aug 30, 2024
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Takid

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#34
What a treasure thank you!
Do you feed, water, feed..? Or feed every watering?
So your pots would dry out a bit quicker. This summer I had mostly 24-26C during day and 19-20C at night. Rh 50-60.
Do you use dolomite? Or top dress with anything at all using biobizz?
 
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HerbalEdu

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#35
i'm feeding every watering, not adding anything else to biobizz all-mix soil .
 
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HerbalEdu

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#36
also i have my friend/padawan that tend to have plant healthy longer near the end overall with bio canna nutrients and bio tabs bio pk with biobizz all mix soil.

Our growshops may close soon, due to not enough sales over the last years, so i might have to consider sourcing my nutrients on line, looking into:

“Green

Buy Green House Feeding Online
shop.greenhousefeeding.com

as i start getting tired of mixing lot of bottles each feeding.
 
Last edited: Aug 31, 2024
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HerbalEdu

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#37
will need this one as well:

https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/enhancer.html

the thing is over the years i had a few liquid nutrients bottle that passed out, powder nutrient should help for storage also that gonna make 3 bag to mix instead of 6 bottle.
 
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Takid

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#38
I've heard some people on YouTube saying they just top dress the soil without using any bottled nutrients. And some make super soil and just water. Ever tried that?
 
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HerbalEdu

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#39
Takid said:
I've heard some people on YouTube saying they just top dress the soil without using any bottled nutrients. And some make super soil and just water. Ever tried that?
Click to expand...
this is exactly what i'd like to try:

“Green

Buy Green House Feeding Online
shop.greenhousefeeding.com

has two line:

one organic with three bag, two that you use mixed in the soil or as top dress every 8 weeks or so and an additives bag that you mix into the water every two weeks

an other line, with mineral nutrients (more advised for hydro than soil, but that you can still use in soil) with 5 bag that you dissolve in water every watering.
 
Last edited: Aug 31, 2024
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HerbalEdu

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#40
i have seen lot of people having great result top dressing their plants, make me want to give it a try
 
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