Nitrogen toxicity or something else?

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Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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No cal mag will not be but add 1 gram per gal of epsom salt (mag sulfate) that will bring the calcium to magnesium into a better ratio. 170ppm is absolutely fine to use as a base. That could have been a part of the issue though with the cal mag.
Good to know, i believe i already have some epsom salt not being used.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Hmm, interesting. I never really considered the light being an issue over than maybe it just not being enough. I was about to buy the grow light science grow 300 so i can throw more plants down. I also have a cannagrow 300w cob for my other two i just started, but im unsure of its true watt output. Just working with hand me downs at the moment.

I found out my phone is too old and cheap to use that app, but i can borrow my friends to check the lumens tomorrow. You thinking too high or too low?
Thinking a bit high... could also be just the uptake is not enough if say the rootzone is cold or overwatered. Many reasons you can see light stress that aren't due to light intensity so would be nice to make sure its in a good place and go from there.
 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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Thinking a bit high... could also be just the uptake is not enough if say the rootzone is cold or overwatered. Many reasons you can see light stress that aren't due to light intensity so would be nice to make sure its in a good place and go from there.
Well, i will say the soil im using for this plant is less than ideal, i added some sand so it, but its very hard compared to the new stuff i got recently. Its a 5g pot and i water about a gallon every 5-7 days depending on how it feels about an inch down. One gallon usually creates a little bit of runoff that within 10 min gets sucked back up into the dirt.

As far as it being cold, that very well could be the issue too, i have an intake and exhaust that recycles a lot more air than i need it too for my 4x4 tent and its been fairly cold lately at night so the soil is pretty chilly when watered. Ill add a heater near the intake and try to keep it around 80. Maybe wait even longer between watering as well.

ill move the light up to 24 inches tomorrow once it comes on. I feel like i should just make a thread to document my grow and whoever wants to chime in with some advice would help a lot. Ive learned more being here than i ever did on my own with youtube lectures haha. Something about the specifics here instead of generalizations from youtube that just make a lot more sense to me.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Well, i will say the soil im using for this plant is less than ideal, i added some sand so it, but its very hard compared to the new stuff i got recently. Its a 5g pot and i water about a gallon every 5-7 days depending on how it feels about an inch down. One gallon usually creates a little bit of runoff that within 10 min gets sucked back up into the dirt.

As far as it being cold, that very well could be the issue too, i have an intake and exhaust that recycles a lot more air than i need it too for my 4x4 tent and its been fairly cold lately at night so the soil is pretty chilly when watered. Ill add a heater near the intake and try to keep it around 80. Maybe wait even longer between watering as well.

ill move the light up to 24 inches tomorrow once it comes on. I feel like i should just make a thread to document my grow and whoever wants to chime in with some advice would help a lot. Ive learned more being here than i ever did on my own with youtube lectures haha. Something about the specifics here instead of generalizations from youtube that just make a lot more sense to me.
Ok some things jump out at me here.

1. Never let the pot sit in runoff to suck water back up.... big no no there.

2. Get them up on a pot riser to keep them out of runoff and off the cool floor.

3. Do not use the finger method its very inaccurate. Always go by pot weight. The water that causes over watering is in the bottom of the pot in the saturation zone. Even if the top soil is dry the can be over watered.

4. A grow diary will help you alot and you will get much better advice since those watching and helping can see all of the history, issues and corrections you have made over the grow. That helps IMMENSELY in getting a good diagnosis for future issues.

If ya start one feel free to tag me. I'm all over the place and often don't have time to pop in everywhere but if you tag me I usually don't miss them and will pop in.

Not to mention it's a great asset to look back on for rupture grows to see what happened when and use it to dial in your grows.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Not sure if I linked this but I can tell you of you read it closely and take the time to understand it the info in it will go a long way to understanding good watering practices and how it all works.

 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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Ok some things jump out at me here.

1. Never let the pot sit in runoff to suck water back up.... big no no there.

2. Get them up on a pot riser to keep them out of runoff and off the cool floor.

3. Do not use the finger method its very inaccurate. Always go by pot weight. The water that causes over watering is in the bottom of the pot in the saturation zone. Even if the top soil is dry the can be over watered.

4. A grow diary will help you alot and you will get much better advice since those watching and helping can see all of the history, issues and corrections you have made over the grow. That helps IMMENSELY in getting a good diagnosis for future issues.

If ya start one feel free to tag me. I'm all over the place and often don't have time to pop in everywhere but if you tag me I usually don't miss them and will pop in.

Not to mention it's a great asset to look back on for rupture grows to see what happened when and use it to dial in your grows.
Alright, so i have a lot of work to do tomorrow it seems haha.

I have a small table i can use to raise it up about a foot, and ill have to buy some pot risers for sure. I figured it soaking up some water was typical and any left over was the actual runoff to dispose of so i guess ive been doing some damage to my plants this whole time. Thankfully it was a very small amount of runoff so hopefully not too much damage was done.

Ive read hydrogen peroxide is good for getting rid of root rot and oxygenating the roots. if i do have some root rot due to that, would you recommend that i use a mixture of that in my next watering to fix that issue if you think that could be a problem?

I was told of the weight method, but im so bad at judging it. Ill probably just get a scale and weigh it dry and wet to help with that.

I may not document this plants grow since its a product of my old set up and already in flower, but my two that just entered veg i will for sure start a new thread and tag you in it. Plus this one is a mystery seed and the new ones are the offspring of black widow and big bud auto that i grew prior to these. Experimented a bit with breeding the two together to see what happens, hopefully they are decent.

I will for sure tag you, youve helped out a ton so far and hopefully i can show you some worthwhile buds as a product of the vast amounts of info and time youve given me already.
 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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Not sure if I linked this but I can tell you of you read it closely and take the time to understand it the info in it will go a long way to understanding good watering practices and how it all works.

Will bookmark and study that today and tomorrow, thanks. Its been difficult finding info on watering as most are basically just well if it needs it it needs it. Granted i havent looked into watering much till i got the new nutrients.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Alright, so i have a lot of work to do tomorrow it seems haha.

I have a small table i can use to raise it up about a foot, and ill have to buy some pot risers for sure. I figured it soaking up some water was typical and any left over was the actual runoff to dispose of so i guess ive been doing some damage to my plants this whole time. Thankfully it was a very small amount of runoff so hopefully not too much damage was done.

Ive read hydrogen peroxide is good for getting rid of root rot and oxygenating the roots. if i do have some root rot due to that, would you recommend that i use a mixture of that in my next watering to fix that issue if you think that could be a problem?

I was told of the weight method, but im so bad at judging it. Ill probably just get a scale and weigh it dry and wet to help with that.

I may not document this plants grow since its a product of my old set up and already in flower, but my two that just entered veg i will for sure start a new thread and tag you in it. Plus this one is a mystery seed and the new ones are the offspring of black widow and big bud auto that i grew prior to these. Experimented a bit with breeding the two together to see what happens, hopefully they are decent.

I will for sure tag you, youve helped out a ton so far and hopefully i can show you some worthwhile buds as a product of the vast amounts of info and time youve given me already.
Never add hydrogen peroxide to soil... its oxidative and will damage microbes... either something like southern ag fungicide and or enzymes like komplete or hygrozyme.

No need for a scale you will know when they are light. If you need under water once to see how light they get. They will droop but recover fast. Not something you want to do constantly but once to get an idea is a lot better than overwatering chronically.

Here is a video I did on how fast they recover from under watering.

 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

93
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Never add hydrogen peroxide to soil... its oxidative and will damage microbes... either something like southern ag fungicide and or enzymes like komplete or hygrozyme.

No need for a scale you will know when they are light. If you need under water once to see how light they get. They will droop but recover fast. Not something you want to do constantly but once to get an idea is a lot better than overwatering chronically.

Here is a video I did on how fast they recover from under watering.

Thats insane recovery and very good to know. Makes me think im for sure overwatering after reading your post about watering as well.

One thing i dont quite understand is how the perched water table related to when i should be watering. Im a tad slow at grasping something the first take without practicing it first hand so ill get a clear cup and test out the soil im currently using to find mine. Just to make sure i understand, its the perched water table i should be letting dry out before watering again? Thats the weight im looking to get rid of? Mine roughly 50% FFOF and 50% pearlite with a cloth wide pot, so im assuming that line is fairly low. Sorry if im way off, like i said im pretty dumb when it comes to understanding some things without seeing with my own eyes how it works.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Thats insane recovery and very good to know. Makes me think im for sure overwatering after reading your post about watering as well.

One thing i dont quite understand is how the perched water table related to when i should be watering. Im a tad slow at grasping something the first take without practicing it first hand so ill get a clear cup and test out the soil im currently using to find mine. Just to make sure i understand, its the perched water table i should be letting dry out before watering again? Thats the weight im looking to get rid of? Mine roughly 50% FFOF and 50% pearlite with a cloth wide pot, so im assuming that line is fairly low. Sorry if im way off, like i said im pretty dumb when it comes to understanding some things without seeing with my own eyes how it works.
Yes the pot will start to feel noticeably lighter once the plant is drinking from the perched water table. Most of the root mass will be in that zone so if it stays saturated all the time you have uptake issues and can lead to root rot.
 
mancorn

mancorn

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Since I grow in the ground I have no idea what’s going on down in the root zone. My favorite moisture meter is a tomato start. A lot of times my compost doesn't get hot enough to toast the seeds and when I top dress, a bunch of cherry tomatoes will sprout. When the young tomato plant starts biting the dirt I know it’s time to water. I do the same in my 25g fabrics. It works surprisingly well. The sprout will go down before the larger cannabis plant starts to show water stress. (Then it’ll just pull the tomato plant when it gets a little larger albeit after repeated times of laying in the dirt it isn’t a real fast grower). One of my current “meters”.

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Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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Yes the pot will start to feel noticeably lighter once the plant is drinking from the perched water table. Most of the root mass will be in that zone so if it stays saturated all the time you have uptake issues and can lead to root rot.
Im curious now, should i be transplanting as the plant gets bigger? I went from the solo cups to the 5g cloth and im thinking that might be way to big for them currently as i doubt the tap root has made it anywhere close to the bottom. Could be wrong on that tho, its only a few weeks old.
 
mancorn

mancorn

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I think that’s a better idea. But fabric is hard to transplant as all the roots stick to it, so if that’s a plan for your next grow, go into plastic as your intermediate step.
 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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I think that’s a better idea. But fabric is hard to transplant as all the roots stick to it, so if that’s a plan for your next grow, go into plastic as your intermediate step.
yeah, i like the idea of fabric having a lot of aeration, but thats one thing i heard was an issue. maybe just one more size in the middle of solo cup and the 5g.
 
Thunderstrut

Thunderstrut

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Alright so for the time being I added some upside down pots to raise the plant, poked some holes into the soil as deep as I could, and put the light as high as I could at 20 inches. Hopefully helps a lot.
@Aqua Man
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Synthamesc

Synthamesc

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I have never had too much light. You just need to make the 8 plant factors match the DLI and off to the races you'll be. Especially in hydro.

The amount of nutes your plant needs is directly related to the DLI (daily light intake) your plant is receiving. Light manufactures list Ppdf and PPF, which are great to see how much of an area a light can handle and the density of the photons. But DLI is the bottom line Stat that a plant survives on. The higher the DLI, the more nutes it needs to build its cells, the more water, it drinks to bring in the nutes. So never skimp on the light. That's really the backbone of any grow. Then build out from that..... Think of the light as a racecar motor. The nutes are the tires. As you improve your motor you have to get better tires or you hit the wall. I could go on for hours
 
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