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Northern Lights (MSNL) First Grow

I was hoping that the tds meter I have is factory calibrated because I don’t have any distilled water to calibrate it but I don’t think it is. I’m just going to do a light flush tomorrow and water with straight water the next day as well. When I switched...
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Northern Lights (MSNL) First Grow

by The_Greenist · Started Nov 11, 2023
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The_Greenist

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#21
I was hoping that the tds meter I have is factory calibrated because I don’t have any distilled water to calibrate it but I don’t think it is.

I’m just going to do a light flush tomorrow and water with straight water the next day as well.

When I switched to the beastie bloomz fert for beginning of week 3 the spots started. I noticed when mixing the new ferts with bbloomz I had to add another ml if ph up as well to get solution around 6.5.

It’s crazy when the p level of your ferts is in the 50 plus range.
 
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tonythc

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#22
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bluelab-T...-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ANEGB3WVEVKZB&th=1
these are calibrated from factory and never need to be calibrated. run about 1200 ppm on the 700 scale and when it gets to 2000ppm flush it down till run off is back to 1200 ppm
 
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The_Greenist

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#23
Just flushed them all pretty good with some RO water.

I don’t have the tds calibrated yet, going to do that this weekend.

The bushier phenotypes showed barely any lockout vs. the taller ones.

I’m glad I chose a bushier type for my mother.

Going to water with RO with calmag for the next couple days. Then fert again.

Here are some of the lower fan leaves I removed:
@Porky1982 I can now see why you said they are over fed.

Way too dark green.
 
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Gmix

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#24
The_Greenist said:
View attachment 2072941Any ideas on what this is, just started on two plants recently?View attachment 2072942
Click to expand...
I read the first skimmed the rest

Looks like leaf septoria
If you cut any of it use iso or bleach if you’ve no iso to clean your equipment before cutting another

Your first pic the plants looked as stressed af they needed transplanting.

Veg only 3 weeks now your into 3 weeks into flower ?

The plant obviously wasn’t sexually mature when you flipped the light however it should be showing some flowering have you checked it’s female.

You need to veg longer ok you can put a plant under 12/12 from birth and it will still eventually flower still with hybrids you want to veg longer.

I loathe when folks show pics of their grows when it doesn’t help however in this instance I think it will help you.

These were vegged six weeks and am on week 2.5 of flowering as you can see there’s a big difference. I’m trying to give you a idea of what you can get back with a few more weeks vegging am not showing off my plants I know others do well better I’m simply trying to show you the difference between growing in bigger pots ( transplanting) especially before flipping to flower

In such small pots there root-bound and stunted.

Btw you need to cut back on the n

I just read you flushed it and are going with ro water ; use tap water as you have just flushed the micronutrients out
 

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The_Greenist

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#25
Gmix said:
I read the first skimmed the rest

Looks like leaf septoria
If you cut any of it use iso or bleach if you’ve no iso to clean your equipment before cutting another

Your first pic the plants looked as stressed af they needed transplanting.

Veg only 3 weeks now your into 3 weeks into flower ?

The plant obviously wasn’t sexually mature when you flipped the light however it should be showing some flowering have you checked it’s female.

You need to veg longer ok you can put a plant under 12/12 from birth and it will still eventually flower still with hybrids you want to veg longer.

I loathe when folks show pics of their grows when it doesn’t help however in this instance I think it will help you.

These were vegged six weeks and am on week 2.5 of flowering as you can see there’s a big difference. I’m trying to give you a idea of what you can get back with a few more weeks vegging am not showing off my plants I know others do well better I’m simply trying to show you the difference between growing in bigger pots ( transplanting) especially before flipping to flower

In such small pots there root-bound and stunted.

Btw you need to cut back on the n

I just read you flushed it and are going with ro water ; use tap water as you have just flushed the micronutrients out
Click to expand...
I wonder if I tracked some septoria spores in when I was cleaning out my garden shed.

Maybe time to brush some copper azole on the infected leaves?

They definitely all have flowers growing on them.

I was going for a SOG method with short veg and intentionally dwarfed them.

I will send some budding pictures tomorrow.

My water is city water that’s why I chose RO spring water.
 
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#26
I’m not up on copper azole tbh I’d have to research to give you a reply.
You’ll want to add micronutrients if you intend to use it in future personally I’d just gas of ( let it sit ) the city water and use that, happy to hear they are budding.

Good luck
 
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The_Greenist

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#27
Gmix said:
I’m not up on copper azole tbh I’d have to research to give you a reply.
You’ll want to add micronutrients if you intend to use it in future personally I’d just gas of ( let it sit ) the city water and use that, happy to hear they are budding.

Good luck
Click to expand...
Yeah, I’m starting to think that’s what I’m going to do.

We got a letter from the city advising us not to drink it because of high manganese levels so I figured my plants shouldn’t drink it either.
 
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The_Greenist

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#28
Gmix said:
I’m not up on copper azole tbh I’d have to research to give you a reply.
You’ll want to add micronutrients if you intend to use it in future personally I’d just gas of ( let it sit ) the city water and use that, happy to hear they are budding.

Good luck
Click to expand...
I have a spare blurple light.

Do I need to strip the leaves and quarantine the infected?

I did not see this problem coming, I have too much ventilation if anything.
 
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The_Greenist

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#29
I think the name of the game right now is to cut back infected leaves to decrease the spore count and increase airflow.

This stuff is spreading fast.

Hopefully I can nurture this grow to the finish before it crashes.

Septoria In an indoor grow, geez I’m disappointed.
 
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The_Greenist

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#30
Alright was able to prune all leaves with spots, wipe down the inside of my tent and add a box fan to get air moving around much better.

Im not in the clear by any means but I think the situation has improved.

The one good thing about dwarf plants is that I can easily pull them out spin them around and inspect them easily.

Going to start ferts again tomorrow since Im convinced now that there is no nutrient burn.

Maybe cut “grow big” fert in half to reduce nitrogen?
 
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The_Greenist

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#31

Should I use diluted hydrogen peroxide to kill any septoria that might be lingering in the soil?
 
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#32
I haven’t dealt with septoria I know what it looks like however I’ve not dealt with it myself.
@Captspaulding will should help you more in that area.
 
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#33
Say buddy, what I’m seeing on those first leaves looks like die back caused by overwatering or too high rh. The septoria isn’t going to be a thing here, I really think you need to dry the air, up the overall air flow too.
I think they are in too wet of a microclimate.
What does your humidity stay around?
 
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#34
The_Greenist said:
Im doing fox farm fertilizers at 1/4 strength every watering.

I haven’t seen any nutrient burn yet.

I have a tds meter but haven’t used it yet to measure runoff.

How can you tell that they are over fed?
Click to expand...
The dark green larger leaves and the tips of those leaves pointing at the ground.
 
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#35
The_Greenist said:
View attachment 2073973
Should I use diluted hydrogen peroxide to kill any septoria that might be lingering in the soil?
Click to expand...
I would highly doubt you have any fungus problems. Your over feeding and over watering has caused the pH to go out! Causing lock outs namely calcium. To much N in the soil will also throw ya pH out!
If I were you I would let them dry right back and give them a week of just water no nutes!
They should come good then you can decide on a feed strength and schedule.
Just my advice take it or leave it!
 
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Porky1982

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#36
The_Greenist said:
I was hoping that the tds meter I have is factory calibrated because I don’t have any distilled water to calibrate it but I don’t think it is.

I’m just going to do a light flush tomorrow and water with straight water the next day as well.

When I switched to the beastie bloomz fert for beginning of week 3 the spots started. I noticed when mixing the new ferts with bbloomz I had to add another ml if ph up as well to get solution around 6.5.

It’s crazy when the p level of your ferts is in the 50 plus range.
Click to expand...
Every tds ppm ec meter I've owned is factory calibrated.
 
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The_Greenist

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#37
I don’t have a humidity gauge right now the one I bought
Captspaulding said:
Say buddy, what I’m seeing on those first leaves looks like die back caused by overwatering or too high rh. The septoria isn’t going to be a thing here, I really think you need to dry the air, up the overall air flow too.
I think they are in too wet of a microclimate.
What does your humidity stay around?
Click to expand...
I need a new humidity gauge….the one I bought came broken and haven’t replaced it.

My tent was sucked in from suction due to my over kill exhaust fan so I thought it was enough air flow.

I installed a box fan to move more air around and now the tent is bloated outwards.

The reason I jumped on the septoria wagon is because the brown spots did seem to move from the lowest leaves upwards.

The tent is leaf tip to tip, I didn’t do any leaf pruning so I think your absolutely right.

Stale air pockets in tent and heavy foliage made for high rh.

I was originally watering every other day but the droop began to get more extreme between watering.
 
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The_Greenist

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#38
Porky1982 said:
The dark green larger leaves and the tips of those leaves pointing at the ground.
Click to expand...
So move light closer?
 
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#39
The_Greenist said:
I don’t have a humidity gauge right now the one I bought

I need a new humidity gauge….the one I bought came broken and haven’t replaced it.

My tent was sucked in from suction due to my over kill exhaust fan so I thought it was enough air flow.

I installed a box fan to move more air around and now the tent is bloated outwards.

The reason I jumped on the septoria wagon is because the brown spots did seem to move from the lowest leaves upwards.

The tent is leaf tip to tip, I didn’t do any leaf pruning so I think your absolutely right.

Stale air pockets in tent and heavy foliage made for high rh.

I was originally watering every other day but the droop began to get more extreme between watering.
Click to expand...
I water every forth day in veg, basically until beginning week 4 flower
 
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The_Greenist

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#40
Porky1982 said:
I would highly doubt you have any fungus problems. Your over feeding and over watering has caused the pH to go out! Causing lock outs namely calcium. To much N in the soil will also throw ya pH out!
If I were you I would let them dry right back and give them a week of just water no nutes!
They should come good then you can decide on a feed strength and schedule.
Just my advice take it or leave it!
Click to expand...
I thought lockout showed in newest growth first?

I did see a yellow splotch on a leaf this morning that is indicating lock out.

I will take your advice and straight water for a bit. Week 4 of flowering starts on Saturday.
 
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Replies 145
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Started Nov 11, 2023

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