Dbean16
- 21
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Not trying to be the bearer of bad news . But those tds and pH meters from vivosun are unreliable. I would check it with the drops if you have the pH up/down kit.Ahh that makes total sense, I kinda freaked out when I saw such high levels and attributed that to overfeeding. I have basically been running the regular FF schedule but at 1/2 strength since 4th week of veg. Before that I didn’t see any need for nutes - I began feeding after transplanting from solo cups to the 5gal cloth pots.
So sounds like I’d do well to purchase some sort of an RO system. In the big scheme of things how bad is my tap water here? Is there a way to test the impurities? (The photos are right as I get it out of the spigot)
Also would it do me any good on the next run to mix Happy Frog with Ocean Forest? I have read more than a few threads on folks doing this.
Doobie would you have any recommendations for a replacement tester? Preferably something that would work in soil as well as hydro.Not trying to be the bearer of bad news . But those tds and pH meters from vivosun are unreliable. I would check it with the drops if you have the pH up/down kit.
Agree with Nick on everything.oh one more thing..
do not grow autos,
now your chasing issues with a plant on a timer, good luck..
Apera SX600 is what I use. And an Inkbird TDS meter. You can get both for around 100$ americanOkay I have an RO system on the way just so I can cross that off my list. Also, any good recommendations for a PH/TDS/EC meter?
I’ve read Milwaukee and Bluelab are good, back in the day I used to have a Hanna. Could anyone recommend a decent meter that does PH/EC/TDS that’s under $250?
Doobie would you have any recommendations for a replacement tester? Preferably something that would work in soil as well as hydro.
Yeah I hear ya there. I will be getting some regular fem beans for next year, didn’t realize I wouldnt be able to properly clone these geneticsoh one more thing..
do not grow autos,
now your chasing issues with a plant on a timer, good luck..
So doobie says get a new PH TDS EC pen.Not trying to be the bearer of bad news . But those tds and pH meters from vivosun are unreliable. I would check it with the drops if you have the pH up/down kit.
Stone says Calcium. From the leaf charts and infirmary diagnosis threads I was thinking this might be it. I was feeding cal-mag @ 1/2 strength every feeding according to the FF chart. (2.5ml per gallon)Looks like to much calcium.
Homesteader is probably right, I may have overdone it with the calcium and caused lockout?Seems like you are using a lot of nutrients. I am not familiar with your feeding schedule so I could be wrong but just be aware that overloading one nutrients can lock out another. Too much vs the right balance.
That said, water quality in terms of carbonates can be extremely high in certain places.
Most cities have water reports on their website. Small towns you can get it but may need to go to the town office. Well water will need to be tested (Costs like $100 to do it right but you could probably test bicarbonates yourself or look at your showerhead)
"An enormous amount of bicarbonate can be delivered to the soil via the irrigation water. With a bicarbonate level of 300 ppm (very high), one inch of water contains about 70 lbs/acre of bicarbonate.
If the soil is being irrigated at the rate of 1 inch per week, over the course of a 30 week season that adds up to 2100 lbs/acre of bicarbonate. That is equivalent to adding almost a ton and a half per acre of lime, which can significantly raise the pH, especially on lighter soils."
Bicarbonates in irrigation water
Soil test recommendations for organic farmers and gardeners. We help growers grow nutrient-dense food. Logan Labs tests and interpretation.growabundant.com
and Nick could you refer me to a thread on the not PH ing your additives in soil? I believe I may have read one thread from Aqua Man on the subject…waaay too many different types of nutes, it’s not your water.. don’t use Ro water.. never ph when using soil..
man i could go on and on…
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