Log In Register
  • Thread starter Thread starter Kamel
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Nutritient ratios

Kamel 27 Replies 4,565 Views
Page 1 of 2 · Replies 1–20 of 28
Kamel

Kamel

Posts
7
Reactions
1
Joined
May 31, 2020
Points
3
Hello,

I was wondering about nutritients ratio especially during flowering stage, i know that N should be decreased P and K at high levels, but my question is how much exactly should i apply, how to determine that ? how many grams of P for example for the 10l pot ? can anyone help me understand this ?
 
My buds grow bigger and take longer to mature when given too much N during flowers. When using 4-4-4 the same clone takes about 10 days longer than the 4-12-8.
 
My buds grow bigger and take longer to mature when given too much N during flowers. When using 4-4-4 the same clone takes about 10 days longer than the 4-12-8.


I agree with this. Too much pk too early prematurely shortens flowering time and yellows the plant.

I have found much higher yields and more potency and complexity in effects and flavor / smell from the extra 2 weeks or so they stay healthy and keep flowering.
 
I agree with this. Too much pk too early prematurely shortens flowering time and yellows the plant.

I have found much higher yields and more potency and complexity in effects and flavor / smell from the extra 2 weeks or so they stay healthy and keep flowering.
Mine are the exact same taste and potency. Only difference is the size. I'm not too concerned about yield. If I were to calculate grams per day it would be very similar also.
 
My buds grow bigger and take longer to mature when given too much N during flowers. When using 4-4-4 the same clone takes about 10 days longer than the 4-12-8.
Sorry 79, I'm confused. Wouldn't the 4-4-4 deliver the same amount on N as the 4-12-8 for the same EC?
 
Sorry 79, I'm confused. Wouldn't the 4-4-4 deliver the same amount on N as the 4-12-8 for the same EC?
It's just about the ratio. @ 600ppm of 4-4-4 you get about 200N 200P 200K. Using 600ppm of 4-12-8 you get 100N 300P 200K. Some guys run even more PK then that. Back in the day, we ran hydro with ecobloom 3-35-10 with excellent results. I thought that product was out of business, but I see now they are still making it. VF-11 .15-.85-.55 is another great product that's still around. Both are great for making fast budz.
 
It's just about the ratio. @ 600ppm of 4-4-4 you get about 200N 200P 200K. Using 600ppm of 4-12-8 you get 100N 300P 200K. Some guys run even more PK then that. Back in the day, we ran hydro with ecobloom 3-35-10 with excellent results. I thought that product was out of business, but I see now they are still making it. VF-11 .15-.85-.55 is another great product that's still around. Both are great for making fast budz.
I remember ecobloom & ecogrow! Lol! Dreadful stuff! it did work but it was nasty to deal with, always wet and a little hard to accurately measure, came in those little brown jars.. even if they're still making it I'm going to stick with Masterblend!
 
I remember ecobloom & ecogrow! Lol! Dreadful stuff! it did work but it was nasty to deal with, always wet and a little hard to accurately measure, came in those little brown jars.. even if they're still making it I'm going to stick with Masterblend!
lol all the non disolvable buffers would gummed up the res and and pipes and needed flushed and cleaned every two weeks. That said, we never had nute or ph problems and the buds were short and fast perfect nugz.
 
Mine are the exact same taste and potency. Only difference is the size. I'm not too concerned about yield. If I were to calculate grams per day it would be very similar also.


If the size is bigger the yield should be also. The difference when i did side by sides was immediately noticable. But it is very important to properly taper the nutrient strength down as they ripen. And not flush to yellow them out.

Those are my results from running 3 known clones 3 times each way.
 
Sorry 79, I'm confused. Wouldn't the 4-4-4 deliver the same amount on N as the 4-12-8 for the same EC?


Yes but the ratio changes how the nutrients interact with each other. And phosphorous that high over the nitrogen and potassium is not recomended.
 
It's just about the ratio. @ 600ppm of 4-4-4 you get about 200N 200P 200K. Using 600ppm of 4-12-8 you get 100N 300P 200K. Some guys run even more PK then that. Back in the day, we ran hydro with ecobloom 3-35-10 with excellent results. I thought that product was out of business, but I see now they are still making it. VF-11 .15-.85-.55 is another great product that's still around. Both are great for making fast budz.


The ppm’s do not equal the ratio numbers that way. They are figured at different scales.

And the high phosphorous is merely a signal to the flower to start blooming. The plant doesnt use most of that phosphorous. Plenty of nutrient tests out there showing this.
 
The ppm’s do not equal the ratio numbers that way. They are figured at different scales.

And the high phosphorous is merely a signal to the flower to start blooming. The plant doesnt use most of that phosphorous. Plenty of nutrient tests out there showing this.
Agree to disagree. I've user high pk with excellent results for decades. Other farmers have been using high pk with excellent results for centuries.
 
Agree to disagree. I've user high pk with excellent results for decades. Other farmers have been using high pk with excellent results for centuries.


Thats fine. Just having a discussion. I have linked plenty of proof of my statements on this site already.
 
Tossing this into the mix for discussion.

Higher PK to N ratio for transitiononly. Then back to a balanced fert and dropping the PK.

Thoughts? I have mine this post already conveys them
 
Thats fine. Just having a discussion. I have linked plenty of proof of my statements on this site already.
I think it all comes down to style. If you want monster buds use more N. If you want short fast plants, you use less N. I've also found not all N is created equal. Ammoniacal N seems to increase stretch and delay flowering. Nirtate nitrogen works better for short fast buds.
 
I think it all comes down to style. If you want monster buds use more N. If you want short fast plants, you use less N. I've also found not all N is created equal. Ammoniacal N seems to increase stretch and delay flowering. Nirtate nitrogen works better for short fast buds.


I have seen that with organic and natural based ferts like pure blend pro. More stretch than dyna grow foliage pro for sure. Although the relationship to potassium is likely involved.

And it wasnt just the bigger buds. The longer flowering buds have more potency (percieved) and more complexity of effects. Sativa leaning hybrids are mostly heady when they finish at 9.5 weeks and if kept growing for 11 or 12 same plant has even trippier head high and much longer lasting but a good body buzz as well.

Thats my experience anyway.
 
lol all the non disolvable buffers would gummed up the res and and pipes and needed flushed and cleaned every two weeks. That said, we never had nute or ph problems and the buds were short and fast perfect nugz.
This is also true! LOL maybe we're overthinking it a little these days with all the bells, whistles and flashy nute bottles?!
 
Page 1 of 2 · Replies 1–20 of 28
Back
Top Bottom