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Ocean Forest 2nd opinion

  • Thread starter Thread starter r3deyejedi
  • Start date Start date Apr 4, 2013
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Ocean Forest 2nd opinion

r3deyejedi Apr 4, 2013 49 Replies 27,090 Views
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Perception

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#41
MIMedGrower said:
Wow! Lot of differing opinions here.

I use Ocean Forest from seed/ clone to flower. I have found that I need to add about 20% large chunky perlite and break up any clumps in the bags. I do it as I transfer it to a big Rubbermaid tote I keep it in. Otherwise I tend to have some issues with deficiency and lock out from bad drainage about the time they are half way through stretch and have started nutes.
Click to expand...

What kind of nutes do you use? I'm on my 3rd grow using FFOF. I've found that on previous two grows, that my plants seemed to look hungry around week 3/4 of flower (just straight FFOF), and I fed them with some Big Bloom, but that was it. I was seeing if I could get through flower without adding nutes. But I think I was wrong.

I'm on a new grow now, and am 2 weeks in to flower. FFOF from seed. Same regiment as you: Solo cups, to 1 gal, to 3gal. I haven't added any nutes up to this point. I just gave them a compost tea spray/drench two days ago, and they are SUPER happy. But looking a little light green. I'm thinking it's nute time. Can you recommend some organic nutrients?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#42
Perception said:
What kind of nutes do you use? I'm on my 3rd grow using FFOF. I've found that on previous two grows, that my plants seemed to look hungry around week 3/4 of flower (just straight FFOF), and I fed them with some Big Bloom, but that was it. I was seeing if I could get through flower without adding nutes. But I think I was wrong.

I'm on a new grow now, and am 2 weeks in to flower. FFOF from seed. Same regiment as you: Solo cups, to 1 gal, to 3gal. I haven't added any nutes up to this point. I just gave them a compost tea spray/drench two days ago, and they are SUPER happy. But looking a little light green. I'm thinking it's nute time. Can you recommend some organic nutrients?
Click to expand...

I use only pure Botanicare Blend Pro Grow at this time. Sometimes if I hold a plant more than 7 weeks in veg I start using it then but usually around week 2 in flower they look hungry so I start low at 5 ml and add every feed until harvest tapering up the strength to about 10-15 ml and then tapering back down to 0 ml's at harvest time.

It is all natural ingredients but not organic certified.

Oh I use this with my relitively soft well water. No ph adjusting no filters. No additives.
 
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Perception

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#43
MIMedGrower said:
I use only pure Botanicare Blend Pro Grow at this time. Sometimes if I hold a plant more than 7 weeks in veg I start using it then but usually around week 2 in flower they look hungry so I start low at 5 ml and add every feed until harvest tapering up the strength to about 10-15 ml and then tapering back down to 0 ml's at harvest time.

It is all natural ingredients but not organic certified.

Oh I use this with my relitively soft well water. No ph adjusting no filters. No additives.
Click to expand...

Sweet! Thank you. That exactly what I was looking for, and also thinking. They just look hungry a couple weeks after flip.

I have super soft water too. Like 45ppm. I just started PHing my water though, as it was slightly over 8.0. I have to say.... the plants responded favorably. I recommend testing your water and trying it if it's high. Thank you for details though - this is great.
 
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Perception

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#44
MIMedGrower said:
Botanicare Blend Pro Grow
Click to expand...

Oh, this is interesting. I see that the Pure Blend Pro Grow (3-2-4) is marketed as a vegetative supplement, and you are using it in flower. But I agree - with the FFOF, my leaves start getting light green around flip. I just "feel" like they want some nitrogen. In my mind, I imagine vigorous vegetative plants sucking up all the N out of the FFOF. I like that it has all trace minerals too.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#45
Perception said:
Sweet! Thank you. That exactly what I was looking for, and also thinking. They just look hungry a couple weeks after flip.

I have super soft water too. Like 45ppm. I just started PHing my water though, as it was slightly over 8.0. I have to say.... the plants responded favorably. I recommend testing your water and trying it if it's high. Thank you for details though - this is great.
Click to expand...

No. Soft for well water. .3 ec. Or 150 ppm. And 8.0 ph.

Also has low mag. And bit of soluble iron and sulfer and other minerals.

Ph doesn't matter. Alkalinity does. But ph can be a sign of water quality. Just not always.

And here is no reason to adjust ph for water with such low calcium like you have. The lime or oyster shell in the potting mix takes care of the buffering. Over time you will acidify your soil.

I never ph my well water. Only check the soil ph before I use it to make sure it has the right amount of buffer.
 
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Perception

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#46
I'm sure you're right - even though my water is alkaline, I basically have no alkalinity. I'm actually planning to test PH of soil tonight for the first time. Just getting my feet wet in the world of PH. I know people say not to worry with organic soil, but I figure that it can't hurt to check and adjust as needed.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#47
Perception said:
Oh, this is interesting. I see that the Pure Blend Pro Grow (3-2-4) is marketed as a vegetative supplement, and you are using it in flower. But I agree - with the FFOF, my leaves start getting light green around flip. I just "feel" like they want some nitrogen. In my mind, I imagine vigorous vegetative plants sucking up all the N out of the FFOF. I like that it has all trace minerals too.
Click to expand...

The flowers need way more nitrogen and way less phosphorous than standard bloom nutes offer in soil. Switching to bloom nutes is really a water culture thing as the plants uptake all elements directly and need certain ratios for best performance.

But in soil it doesn't work the same. Research citation exchange or CEC.

Also the nutes balance with my water and soil perfectly with almost never a need to leach the pots or add anything extra for deficiencies.

Nutes with a lot of nitrates cause me problems with rising ph as they and my well water steadily raise the soil ph. The nitrates do that and amoniacal nitrogen lowers ph. So I stick with more soil friendly fertilizer.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#48
Perception said:
I'm sure you're right - even though my water is alkaline, I basically have no alkalinity. I'm actually planning to test PH of soil tonight for the first time. Just getting my feet wet in the world of PH. I know people say not to worry with organic soil, but I figure that it can't hurt to check and adjust as needed.
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter in pro mix with powdered nutes either. Ever see a vegetable gardener adjust ph? Even a container gardener?

Only the alkalinity matters and until the ec of the water is over .5 or 250 ppm I wouldn't even worry about the calcium on the water.

There is just no need to acidify decent tap water.

Your water can't be alkaline if the ppms are 65.

Ph and alkalinity are not the same thing.
 
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Perception

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#49
MIMedGrower said:
Your water can't be alkaline if the ppms are 65.

Ph and alkalinity are not the same thing.
Click to expand...

Yeah. As I understand it, alkalinity is the ability of a solution to buffer ph. But I thought that a solution over 7.0 was considered alkaline, regardless of the alkalinity.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#50
Perception said:
Yeah. As I understand it, alkalinity is the ability of a solution to buffer ph. But I thought that a solution over 7.0 was considered alkaline, regardless of the alkalinity.
Click to expand...

Alkalinity is a measurement. Basically how much calcium is in the water.

Ph is a seperate measurement that does not always match the alkalinity. Like your 8.0 ph water with no hardness. Hardness is another word for alkalinity.
 
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Replies 49
Views 27,090
Started Apr 4, 2013
Latest post May 12, 2017
Starter r3deyejedi
Forum Organic Soil

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