og climate conditions

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dontworry

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Im curious at what temp. and humidity does og kush thrive the best in? Im not runnin cO2 so i figue i need to find optimum climate conditions for a good yield...? right now im at 84 on the temp im runnin 24 light cycle right now so dont know what night temp is yet and am still doing alot of adjusting on the new closet....humidity a solid 55%,... 2 ocelating fans, exhaust fan through hood with a 400w mh all surrounding a 2x4 flood table with 6 baby og kush girls...
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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you need to take five degrees off you temp, running a lil warm
humidity doesnt really matter to much as long as its not to extreme one way or the other
if its to high it will lead to mold
if its to low it can cause your plants to persperate
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
you need to take five degrees off you temp, running a lil warm
humidity doesnt really matter to much as long as its not to extreme one way or the other
if its to high it will lead to mold
if its to low it can cause your plants to persperate

Humidity matters keep it at 60% and they will grow fine. og can stretch to much so watch for that.If you could raise your night time temps 3 degrees it would help with your stretch. JK
 
T

TheRealBoss

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Fresh Air, Fresh Air, Fresh Air...and definitely get that temp down!
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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Humidity matters keep it at 60% and they will grow fine. og can stretch to much so watch for that.If you could raise your night time temps 3 degrees it would help with your stretch. JK

how do you figure humitity matters, not to mention youve gotta watch for pm running that high
and ive never herd somebody raising heat at night, i have to imagine this is backwards
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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dont listen to jk at all
i cant beleive this person told u to turn ur temps up
totally backwards
 
P

paulycali

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Aim for 75 degrees with your 24/0 light cycle and once you start flowering aim for 75 degrees for day temp and 65 degrees night temps. Dont let the night temps drop 10 degrees more than the day temp. Water temp should be right around 70 degrees. Humidity during veg should be between 40-60% and when flowering humidity should be right around 40%.

Get yourself an intake fan and when your ready to flower make sure the lights come on at night and go off during the day. Electricity is cheaper at night plus your room will run coller with the lights on at night and the light off during the day.

Good luck and wish you the best
 
budfriend

budfriend

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mastacheeser 254 posts in two months. Jk knows more in his pinkie finger than you will ever know. Dont even bother trying to argue. This post is for other poeple reading this thread.
 
MakinGoo

MakinGoo

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JK was juss sayin that 2 help hold back the stretch when the lights go out the temp should go a tiny bit warmer.. 3 degree warmer at nite will keep the stretch down..
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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You got alot to learn.

day night temps difference can be used to help control stretch

like how everybody says this with no info to back it up
im all ears if you got something to say that makes sense to me, i dont want other growers getting bad info tho
knowledge is about more than number of posts
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
Can you please elaborate? How specifically can I use the room temp to help control stretch?

You guys need to learn about google,it will not hurt to try.
I found this under 5 sec.
JK
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
like how everybody says this with no info to back it up
im all ears if you got something to say that makes sense to me, i dont want other growers getting bad info tho
knowledge is about more than number of posts


knowledge is about more than number of posts, I totally agree with you. Read
 
jammie

jammie

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how do you figure humitity matters, not to mention youve gotta watch for pm running that high
and ive never herd somebody raising heat at night, i have to imagine this is backwards

wow there mas, your wrong on both counts. its a FACT that reducing the difference between day and night temps reduce stretching and as far as the humidity goes:What is relative humidity (RH) and vapor pressure deficit (VPD)?

Relative humidity is the most commonly used measure of how much water vapor is held in the air and it’s something most of us are familiar with, as we all know how uncomfortable hot, steamy air can be. 100 per cent relative humidity is extremely humid, while a humidity reading of only 50 per cent represents a dry environment, but what these values don’t tell us is how much water is actually being held in the air, unless the temperature is also given. This is because cold air holds much less water vapor than hot air. For example, air at 50oF can hold 9.4 grams of water vapor per 35 cubic feet, while air at 86oF can hold three times as much, up to a maximum of 30.4 grams per 35 cubic feet. This has some implications for growers as it’s not just a simple case of aiming for one `ideal’ relative humidity value, since the effect of humidity on plants also depends on temperature. As a rough guide, the table below is used by greenhouse growers of many fruiting and vegetable crops and shows the relationship between temperature and humidity levels.
Temperature °F

Minimum ideal RH
(fog or wet down)

Ideal RH

Maximum RH
(to prevent disease)
59

-

50 per cent

73 per cent
68

46 per cent

64 per cent

80 per cent
77

60 per cent

73 per cent

86 per cent
86

70 per cent

80 per cent

89 per cent



The problem with using relative humidity is that it’s hard to set one optimum RH value, particularly when temperatures tend to vary between day and night and often throughout a 24 hour period. For this reason many growers prefer to use vapor pressure deficit (VPD) as a more accurate measure of the water vapor content of the air and how this affects plant growth.

VPD is the difference (or deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air at the current time and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Saturated air will condense out to form dew or condensation and leaf wetness, which in turn can lead to rot and a higher occurrence of certain disease pathogens. So while plants don’t want an overly dry atmosphere (high VPD), which sucks the moisture from the foliage, they also don’t want a wet environment (low VPD), which slows transpiration and can lead to an increase in disease outbreaks. VPD is typically expressed in the units kPa (kilopascals) with the range for most plants being 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa, with the optimum being around 0.85 kPa. Most indoor gardens are best run at 0.8 to 0.95 kPa for healthy mature plants, with cuttings needing a more humid environment in the lower VPD ranges. What is important is that unlike relative humidity, the VPD range for optimal growth already takes current temperature into account—so the one ideal value irrespective of temperature is around 0.85 kPa. Growers who come to grips with the concept of VPD can accurately measure and adjust their growing environment to stay within the recommended range and give themselves some considerable advantages both in terms of maximizing growth and the ability to control some rather persistent nasties such as Botrytis (grey mold) disease.

Technically, VPD more accurately describes what the plant experiences in relation to the effects of temperature and humidity on growth and transpiration. It combines the effects of both humidity and temperature into one value, so it’s easier to use when setting environmental controls.
Why is humidity or VPD so important for plant growth?

"A dry environment with low humidity typically results in smaller, more compact leaves in tomato crops."

We know that light level and quality and CO2 affect photosynthesis and a number of other plant processes, and that temperature determines the levels of many biological processes within plant cells, but the effects of humidity are a little more indirect. VPD directly affects the rate of transpiration within the plant. Transpiration not only cools the plant, but the transpiration stream from root to leaf surface carries essential minerals up the plant to where they are needed for tissue development. Leaves exposed to the sun or overhead lamps would soon become dangerously hot if they were not cooled by water evaporating from the leaf surface—the process actually works in a similar way to sweat. This evaporated water needs to be replaced from the transpiration stream, which moves in the xylem vessels of the plant. If the water flow from roots to shoots in the xylem vessels is not fast enough, the plant will start to wilt and tissue damage will occur. The plant will shut its stomata in an attempt to retain turgor pressure and prevent wilting if too much water is being lost via transpiration. When the stomata shut to prevent water loss, photosynthesis cannot occur as CO2 can’t be taken in from the surrounding air, so plant growth and yield will be slowed if this occurs too often. Low humidity (high VPD) can cause large volumes of water from the transpiration stream to be lost to the air and force the plant to shut down its stomata to prevent desiccation, and this ultimately reduces growth and yields.

High humidity (low VPD), on the other hand, creates a different problem. When the air already contains a lot of water vapor and may even be close to saturation, it cannot absorb much more water from the plant surface and transpiration slows or even stops. If high humidity conditions exist at the same time as high temperatures, the plant has a major problem as it can’t evaporate enough water from its foliage to cool its tissue and overheating will then occur. Cell damage, wilting and reduced growth will result where hot plants can’t effectively cool themselves via transpiration due to high relative humidity, and in these cases some humidity control is essential.

The transpiration stream moving through the xylem vessels from roots to shoots driven by VPD and humidity is essential for plant functioning. Not only does the water carried in the transpiration stream maintain plant turgor and support, it also carries with it mineral elements and other compounds taken up by the roots. So without a good rate of transpiration drawing the flow of water and minerals up through the xylem tissues from the roots, plant foliage can’t obtain sufficient levels of nutrients for growth and development. One of the most important aspects of transpiration is the flow of calcium. If transpiration is restricted in any way, the lack of calcium flow out to the leaf tips and new cells in developing fruits will cause problems such as tip burn and blossom end rot, which are conditions common under warm and humid growing conditions.
 
jammie

jammie

366
93
sorry the graph didn't come out right. at 68 degrees the ideal humidity should be 64% with a minimum of 46%. at 77 degrees the ideal is 73% with a minimum of 60%. the entire article can be read in the dec'10 issue of maximum yield.com
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

2,126
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You guys need to learn about google,it will not hurt to try.
I found this under 5 sec.
JK

may bad i was wrong. i like how all these other people started talking crap and the only one to back it up was the one that didnt talk any crap(JK)
assuming you have first hand experience with this?
assuming this works indoors too?
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

2,126
263
sorry the graph didn't come out right. at 68 degrees the ideal humidity should be 64% with a minimum of 46%. at 77 degrees the ideal is 73% with a minimum of 60%. the entire article can be read in the dec'10 issue of maximum yield.com

soooo pretty much what i said, no extremes
 
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