Oh No! Botrytis? Damage Control?

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shades

shades

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Hey Fam,

I occasionally noticed the fabric pots I'm using to shine a little bit. Every time that happens I suspected powdery mildew and sprayed just the fabric pots with neem oil mixed with a pinch of yucca to help it spread better and it went away.

I decreased my fertigation to what I was doing when I started earlier in the year growing. Which was maybe like once a day, wait a day or two until it got almost too light and watered it again. Ever since I switched to Jacks 3-2-1 I've not had any issue watering daily for weeks, months now even I think. For a couple of weeks I have been fertigating twice a day.

I noticed my nugs were getting frosty but then I noticed something like it was just too frosty. I suspected powdery mildew forming on the flowers for the first time. . .



I increased the speed of my exhaust on my tent to help dry it out more in there and I decreased the fertigation to every other day. I didn't water today, planning on doing it tomorrow. These photos are from today. I noticed it YESTERDAY but didn't really get to fully inspect the area in question until TODAY.

Adjacent plants seem OK.

I clipped the branch in question and two adjacent branches from the same plant.

Pre trim..

Oh no botrytis damage control
p
post trim and close ups of individual nugs..

I have 4 more images plus 5 micro images to post. I reached my max for this post so those are coming right after.

I was looking up how to make bubble hash and I came across a page (I'd have to dig in my history for it...) that said if you have moldy buds that you can still safely process it into concentrate by letting the infected plant soak in water and this mold/mildew is suppose to surface to the top of the water where it can be scooped away, and what's submerged is safe now to be processed into ice water hash for example.

Can anyone confirm or deny? I would hate to loose these flowers it's a considerable amount considering how much medicine I need to consume for myself.

I'm concerned about it spreading. I'm going to do my first fertigation after letting it dry out yesterday. Some plants were drier than others. I suspect this to be due that when I mixed my vermiculite/petemoss it wasn't as 50/50 as I wanted and a little heavier on the pete end. The 3.5 liter fabric pots they are in have some room I can sprinkle more vermeiculte which I think will help with aeration and draining.

The plant directly left of it and in front of it are getting amberish which means <2 week harvest time so I cant really spray those with neem oil.... Unless I commit to processing it to concentrate? The plant on a diagonal stil has plenty of clear and cloudy trichromes.

Can I safely process this into concentrate and hopefully still have no problems with the flowers I have yet to harvest?
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shades

shades

56
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Part II
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This is still fresh cut. I'm going to put it all in a bag and into the freezer (which I read you do with flower for flowers that you want to process into concentrate. I'm not sure that you owuld want to freeze it after soaking it in water and scooping off the mold on top (if that's even at all possible)

How bad is it?

Is my damage control situation in control or is all of this going to be a waste and unable to be safely processed into concentrate?
 
Zoneshityee

Zoneshityee

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I'm not too sure about the wax/hash part but th atlooks like bugs and web.. :o spider mite ?
 
Homesteader

Homesteader

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That sucks. Sorry for you. Personally I would not touch it but really cool pictures from the scope.
 
Kanzeon

Kanzeon

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Part II View attachment 1075280View attachment 1075282View attachment 1075283View attachment 1075284View attachment 1075285View attachment 1075286View attachment 1075287View attachment 1075288View attachment 1075289View attachment 1075290

This is still fresh cut. I'm going to put it all in a bag and into the freezer (which I read you do with flower for flowers that you want to process into concentrate. I'm not sure that you owuld want to freeze it after soaking it in water and scooping off the mold on top (if that's even at all possible)

How bad is it?

Is my damage control situation in control or is all of this going to be a waste and unable to be safely processed into concentrate?

You'll have to make bubble hash with it before anything else, that's not a small amount of rot. Honestly though I'd just trash that and not risk it.
 
Zoneshityee

Zoneshityee

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Just read a bit on it(botrytis), I guess they purposely make wine with it... maybe it will be good to smoke 🤯
 
Kanzeon

Kanzeon

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Just read a bit on it(botrytis), I guess they purposely make wine with it... maybe it will be good to smoke 🤯

It's sometimes allowed to affect grapes in more humid regions because it adds a candied ginger/honey note to the finished wine. German Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling and Sauternes, a dessert wine from Bordeaux, are fantastic examples if you're interested. It grows on the skins of some individual grapes, concentrating the sweetness and flavor intensity.

As far as smoking goes, combustion is a completely different process than the yeast-based fermentation that's used in winemaking. Unless you know what the byproducts of burning botrytis spores are, I wouldn't risk it.
 
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Zoneshityee

Zoneshityee

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Someone had to try shrooms to know the effect... smoke weed to know... etc.etc.. 🤷‍♂️👍
 
shades

shades

56
8
I'm not too sure about the wax/hash part but that looks like bugs and web.. :o spider mite ?

I wasn't sure if they were spider mites or fungas gnats. Adults seem to fly and are black. Larvae appear white.
I am a lot more chill smoking webs and insects than mold spores. Can anyone confirm pests vs mold on these microscope picture? I can take additional microscope pictures of the infected part(s) in question. I assume that web and carapace will also surface to water if it's put in a sealed container and shook up.

THC itself seems to be a bug deter ant. My plants are setup in a 3 by 3 arrangement :

#13 #5 #20
#19 #3 #6
#1 #10 #11

#s 3, 5, 6, 11 all appear to be the same cultivar and phenotype... Shorter, stouter, more indica looking. Also very purpley looking. Number 11 actually looks more like a sativa being taller and farther internode spacing but the buds themselves look very similiar if not completely indistinguishable from #s 3, 5, and 6.

I suspect that #s 1, 10, 11, 19, 13, 20 to be all of the same cultivar but as of a previous thread of mine I am more convinced now that they are the same cultivar but two different phenotypes. Upon closer inspection those two phenotypes may actually be three phenotypes. #13 is distinctly showing a reddish hue to the flowers, unlike the others but not in a sickly way. #10 looks very yellow/orange/citrus colored. #20 and #19 look very similar to each other but distinctly differnet from #13 and #10.

The coloring of the flower sites is making it more difficult for me to determine whether or not fan and sugar leaf discoloration is the onsite of rot or just natural progression of it's life cycle.

To Recap:
#s 3, 5, 6, 11 look purple,
# 13 looks red,
# 1, 19, 20 look like the darker green in a previous thread of mine (probably GG)
# 10 looks to be the super frosty/lime green one in said previous thread. (really would like to save this one for the future, if possible either through taking a cutting and revegging the cutting and turning it into a mother, or saving a couple of branches and revegging the whole plant into a mother once I harvest)

From what I recall purchasing and collecting in my seed jar the purple ones could be either blue dream or headband or blue dream X headband (greater than 50% certainty it's one of those three)

The darker green ones i think with like an 85%+ certainty are Gorilla Glue, mainly cause the bag I got from a homie that had GG, my grinder card wouldn't really do, and my grinder damn near siezed up like an engine without oil. Even after drying and curing for a couple of weeks (yeah I'm sampling them as I'm curing even though I'd rather wait; the budget ran out to be able to purchase flowers from the dispensary at the start of december) the ones I think are GG that I put intto my grinder are really clogging that thing up so much to the point I'm going to have to start using channel locks to get the grinder to turn. The amount of torque to get the thing to spin is getting ridiculous. My right hand also has been broken since 2017 making me have half the grip strength in that hand that I use to.


Back when I was vegging I would routinely take my plants outside to double dip on sunlight and then take them back inside to get the extra hours of light it needed for veg.

When I flipped to flower light cycle 12/12 i stopped moving the plants outside and inside due to worries about contamination (which I apparently have done).

In my 4'x4' tent I had 20 plants total. When males started showing those were taken outside to grow with the intent of trying to harvest pollen (failed) and to use all of the leaves/male flowers to help create hash (which might not be potent but the intent was to a) get experience making bubble b) see what kind of yield/quality of hash males can bring c) see if the male concentrates are higher in CBD or are just a more flavorful if not as potent of a smoke.

Plants #7 #16 #17 and #18 have been moved into a closet to continue vegging and are vegging right now. I could be very unlucky and have four specimens that are either male or hermies. I have not yet been able to take a successful cutting to bring into the flower tent to determine sex.

My clone situation is pretty poor. I think I have only one that really rooted well as of checking today. I will try to up pot that one that rooted and check my rubber band colors to see which plant it was from.

I watered my vegging plants today but I still did not water the flowering plants because the soil actually seemed still pretty moist. I am planning on adding more vermiculte to top them off to help offset the dense nature of the peat moss but haven't yet.

3, 5, 6, 20, 11 all seem 100% fine

#1 is the sick one

#s 10 and to a lesser extent 19 seem like they produced enough trichromes or managed to get a high enough brix content to deter most to all of the pests. I don't have a refractometer to check though.... I also wasn't adding silica during vegetating because I couldn't afford it and I'm really regretting that now.




What should I do for damage control?



Should I just harvest all of plant #1, #19, and #10 instead of letting them ripen up? #19 and #10 definitely are on the onsite of showing amber and the closest to peak ripeness out of the entire crop. The purple ones are showing absolutely ZERO amber. It's *all* clear and some cloudy.

Ideally #s 13 and 10 can be revegged into mothers or have cuttings taken from them to be turned into mothers.

If that's not possible or not ideal what should the fam suggest I do to propagate the future of this garden?

I feel like if I removed #1, 19, 13, and 10 then I would have a 95%+ probability of not having any future or ongoing issues in the flowering tent but if just getting rid of #1 would do that with a 90% certainty that might be a more attractive option.

If it's just web and carapce I'm a lot less worried than if it were mold. I have fired up another dehumidifier that has closer to 3x the CFM than my first one which is closer to 74 CFM. The output on the exhaust to the tent was increased.

If I increase the temperature of the room/tent will this help kill the aphids/fungus gnats? I can't recall if they thrived better in lower or hotter temperatures.

Humidifiers intake port is connected directly to a port on the tent. The dehumidifers exhaust port is being vented into the room instead of directly into the tent as the exhaust fan is going to undo all of that humidifiers hard work having a much higher CFM rating. The plan was to have the tent exhaust outside and exhaust into the dehumidifier, which vents the dry air back into the room, to be pulled into the tent's air intake ports.

As of tonight I have turned on another dehumidifier in my room, one that's rated for doing a whole basement or house instead of just a room (X,XXX sq ft vs XXX sq ft) and it's doing a lot to help the air circulation of the room as well as lowering the humidity. The other humidifier is basically on 24/7 set to 40% rH but I've never seen it actually record anything below 47% rH.

I don't have a seedling heating pad and am constantly worried about it being too cold in the closet where the veg plants and cuttings live. What is currently happening is I have a recalled delongie heater, heating the room (one of the coils popped and luckily didn't burn down the house. Waiting on replacement controller to install for it..) I have a 120mm computer fan connected to some dryer duct that pulls air from the fins of the heater into the closet which has the 4 plants in there. The left side of the closet is partitioned off with a giant foam pad. The lighting situation isn't great in there, basically sub par. I already see signs of the plants struggling. In there I have 4 more 120 mm computer fans, one by each plant pointed upward, bringing up the warm air being pulled in from the heater.

Currently the cloudline humidity sensor is reading 50% (it's closer to the drain pans and fabric pots, right after fertigation it goes up to sometimes 60%). Exhaust speed is set to 10. The humidifier connected to the tent is reading 47%. The other humidifier in the room is set to and reading 35%

My concern is that the lack of exhaust in the closet is going to become an issue. Warm air is being pulled in and just recirculated. The closet is open 120 mm (the width of the fan) which is sitting on the floor, and a light blocker curtain hangs on the inside of the closet door so its not 'air tight' but also certianly far from "is being exhausted correctly". I'm hoping to drill a few holes or saw a 120mm squared section out of the top of the bottom (part of the) closet as the top (of the) closet is completley separate and has it's own sliding doors. My options then are to either exhaust that back into the room or use ducting to pipe it over to the opposite side of the tent where the cloudline is connected, basically ensuring the airflow from the veg tent doesn't humidify the flowering tent as where it is being piped in would be sitting directly across from where it is being vented outside (at the top of the tent)
 
Zoneshityee

Zoneshityee

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Damn, that was alot to read. I hope you did it on a computer as my phone always gives me issues with spelling on this page for some reason lol... anyway, dude just spray rubbing alcohol on the underside of infected plants a few times this weeks, if it clears up it was bugs 👍also was for harvesting, it is my understanding tou want a limited number of amber tricks, or else it's like a couch lock.. not sure if that's true or not.. anyway, I'd harvest all I can now, and get ready for next crop
 
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