old bean germ rates

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dilligaf

dilligaf

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all my seeds are organic...trying to germ some 4 year old diesel Ryder from joint doctor...loosing faith in them...wanted to make seed run on them
 
Ambre

Ambre

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I popped some 18 year old bag seeds using a "germination bomb"
 
MrBanjo

MrBanjo

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I'm not sure what nutrients people were using back then, so unsure about whether organic or not. They were kept in an old tin cookie container with hundreds of old stubs. The seeds spanned from 82-92. My first attempt wasn't great, but my little incubator did a great job on them recently. Hope that helps @caveman4.20
 
caveman4.20

caveman4.20

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MrBanjo said:
I'm not sure what nutrients people were using back then, so unsure about whether organic or not. They were kept in an old tin cookie container with hundreds of old stubs. The seeds spanned from 82-92. My first attempt wasn't great, but my little incubator did a great job on them recently. Hope that helps @caveman4.20
Click to expand...
It does thanks again, I'm guessing organic to be able to grow those old seeds much props man I'm sure thems are gems!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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After reading all the "my beans got thrown out when the fridge was cleaned out!" stories I can't bring myself to do it, I am a-feared.
Ambre said:
I popped some 18 year old bag seeds using a "germination bomb"
Click to expand...
Tell us! What's a germination bomb?
 
Ambre

Ambre

150
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Seamaiden said:
After reading all the "my beans got thrown out when the fridge was cleaned out!" stories I can't bring myself to do it, I am a-feared.

Tell us! What's a germination bomb?
Click to expand...

Seeds will stay viable in a fridge or freezer for many years. They don't stay good for very long if kept at room temp. If you don't trust keeping them in a fridge, put them in a cool dry spot with dessicant packaged inside to protect them from humidity.

I got the original idea for the germination bomb off of CW years ago. I've been running experiments with different additives and strengths, this is my current best mix.

Word of warning - DMSO is not something to handle casually. It can be dangerous. Wash any exposed skin & put on rubber or surgical gloves before opening the bottle; long sleeves are also a good idea. Be VERY careful not to get any on your skin. DMSO will take anything that is on your skin and help it to penetrate into your cells - this includes oil, gasoline, and everything else. The system below works reasonably well without the DMSO, but I suggest scuffing the seeds before putting them in the mix if you don't use it.

You need an aquarium air pump, air hose, a small air stone, a Mason or jelly jar, and some silicon sealant. You will also need a drill, a scrap block of wood, and a drill bit that is the same diameter as the air hose.

To prepare the jar: Drill a hole in the lid just large enough to pass an air hose through (set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood to make it easier and eliminate sharp bits around the hole). Put a small air stone on the bottom of the hose & adjust the length of the hose inside the jar so that the airstone just touches the bottom of the jar. Seal around the hose on the top & bottom sides of the lid with silicone; allow to cure.

The jars are filled halfway with water (8 oz). I use RO water.

Put in each jar (this amount to 8 oz water):
  • 10 drops Superthrive
  • 1cc food-grade molasses (from the grocery store, a previous experiment using horticultural molasses resulted in a problem with mold)
  • 1 tsp 3% hydrogen peroxide
  • 13 drops DMSO (can be purchased from feed stores, Tractor Supply Co (store or online), or online from this website (remove spaces for the link) jefferspet. com / products/ dmso

The jars are set on top of a seedling heat mat to keep them warm, with a towel draped over the top to block light.

The DMSO is essential for really old seeds - it facilitates absorption of the water and nutrients. You do not need to scuff seeds if you use the DMSO, but can if you want. If you don't use the DMSO, scuff the seeds and leave them in the jar a little longer if you don't see roots at the recommended time.

Hook the jar up to an air pump. I only leave the seeds in the pressure jar for 32-36 hours, no longer; you can literally drown them if you leave them in too long.

Transplant to your preferred germinating medium. I like perlite with a pinch of vermiculite just around the seed and I run them on my E&F system with mild nutes and a bit more molasses to provide carbs for the seedling.

Using 18 year old bag seeds I had saved, I ran experiments with various strengths of ingredients, which is how I came up with the mix above. This will probably change over time as I refine the system.

I experimented using GA3 to help with germination using 50, 100, & 150 ppm. It did increase the germ rate on the seeds, but not a single seedling that was in a jar with GA3 survived beyond the second set of real leaves. The control jar with no GA3 had 3 seeds germinate with 2 very healthy seedlings that are now big enough to take clones from.
 
drewski85

drewski85

1,008
263
I think as long as the seeds don't get much light, moisture, and if they aren't subject to prolonged periods of hot air they should last a right good while, refrigerated or not
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Ambre said:
Seeds will stay viable in a fridge or freezer for many years. They don't stay good for very long if kept at room temp. If you don't trust keeping them in a fridge, put them in a cool dry spot with dessicant packaged inside to protect them from humidity.

I got the original idea for the germination bomb off of CW years ago. I've been running experiments with different additives and strengths, this is my current best mix.

Word of warning - DMSO is not something to handle casually. It can be dangerous. Wash any exposed skin & put on rubber or surgical gloves before opening the bottle; long sleeves are also a good idea. Be VERY careful not to get any on your skin. DMSO will take anything that is on your skin and help it to penetrate into your cells - this includes oil, gasoline, and everything else. The system below works reasonably well without the DMSO, but I suggest scuffing the seeds before putting them in the mix if you don't use it.

You need an aquarium air pump, air hose, a small air stone, a Mason or jelly jar, and some silicon sealant. You will also need a drill, a scrap block of wood, and a drill bit that is the same diameter as the air hose.

To prepare the jar: Drill a hole in the lid just large enough to pass an air hose through (set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood to make it easier and eliminate sharp bits around the hole). Put a small air stone on the bottom of the hose & adjust the length of the hose inside the jar so that the airstone just touches the bottom of the jar. Seal around the hose on the top & bottom sides of the lid with silicone; allow to cure.

The jars are filled halfway with water (8 oz). I use RO water.

Put in each jar (this amount to 8 oz water):
  • 10 drops Superthrive
  • 1cc food-grade molasses (from the grocery store, a previous experiment using horticultural molasses resulted in a problem with mold)
  • 1 tsp 3% hydrogen peroxide
  • 13 drops DMSO (can be purchased from feed stores, Tractor Supply Co (store or online), or online from this website (remove spaces for the link) jefferspet. com / products/ dmso

The jars are set on top of a seedling heat mat to keep them warm, with a towel draped over the top to block light.

The DMSO is essential for really old seeds - it facilitates absorption of the water and nutrients. You do not need to scuff seeds if you use the DMSO, but can if you want. If you don't use the DMSO, scuff the seeds and leave them in the jar a little longer if you don't see roots at the recommended time.

Hook the jar up to an air pump. I only leave the seeds in the pressure jar for 32-36 hours, no longer; you can literally drown them if you leave them in too long.

Transplant to your preferred germinating medium. I like perlite with a pinch of vermiculite just around the seed and I run them on my E&F system with mild nutes and a bit more molasses to provide carbs for the seedling.

Using 18 year old bag seeds I had saved, I ran experiments with various strengths of ingredients, which is how I came up with the mix above. This will probably change over time as I refine the system.

I experimented using GA3 to help with germination using 50, 100, & 150 ppm. It did increase the germ rate on the seeds, but not a single seedling that was in a jar with GA3 survived beyond the second set of real leaves. The control jar with no GA3 had 3 seeds germinate with 2 very healthy seedlings that are now big enough to take clones from.
Click to expand...
That is how I store my seeds right now, they're in a relatively temperature stable environment, but probably not as cool as it should be even though they're near the floor. Maybe it's time to take over a drawer in the downstairs fridge.

I had better not say what I've done with DMSO over my lifetime, but needless to say, I've gotten it on my skin a few times. I just happen to have some that I was using to experiment with topicals (but what I made burned, it burned!). I've got a few aquarium pumps, I don't have Superthrive, but how easy is that to get?

I want to make this post a thread of its own, and make it sticky. Would you repost this so you get proper credit, and then I shall put sticky things all over it, please?
 
Ambre

Ambre

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Seamaiden said:
I want to make this post a thread of its own, and make it sticky. Would you repost this so you get proper credit, and then I shall put sticky things all over it, please?
Click to expand...
Sure, I can do that. I have photos to clarify the written instructions. It might take me a couple of days to get it posted, prepping the ranch for winter is taking a lot of my time right now. Where would it make most sense to put it - in the "Advanced Techniques & Problems" section?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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638
Yes, Advanced Techniques I think would be most appropriate. :D
 
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