One_bell's first grow (F1 Epsilon auto, RDWC)

[One_Bell]

but this is natural it shows the progress most people use this to estimate harvesting time like when to crop.

How may weeks would you estimate? I am in the second week of flowering, RQS mentions 30-40 days flowering but I think it will take me another 3-4 weeks from now.

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Up the wattage or closer them to the lights you have about 2 weeks and 5 days

 

[One_Bell]

Up the wattage or closer them to the lights you have about 2 weeks and 5 days

I measured again today, I am at 51% of the 480W light and the ppfd is between 780 and 870 already. With the 870 PPFD I have a DLI of 56,5, is that enough you think? 45 is normal, 55 is already asking for additional co2.

Link: https://growlightmeter.com/autoflowering-cannabis-lighting/#par-ppfd-levels-for-autoflowers

Please keep in mind these are autoflowers, they need less of everything it seems.

 

[One_Bell]

Yeah, too soon. I don't think any feed
charts show maintaining veg nutes far
enuff into flowering, I usually go 10-14
days after flip, some go as much as 3
weeks - depending on how much stretch
you want.

Just did the reservoir change and rolled back to my preflower nutrient regime, I keep an eye out for the correct pH and try to keep it between 6.0 (preferred) and 6.2 (max).

 

[One_Bell]

Day 57 (from sowing seeds, day 54 since sprouting and 42 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Today I took some time to cut off the yellow leaves, and cut or tuck away leaves that are blocking budsites. I hope this will increase the airflow/light penetration and will prevent budrot in the near future.

Before:

After:

They begin to get real sticky, last time I touched the plant without gloves lol. Also the smell has changed a bit from musky/earthy to a more citrus flavour. The new ducting is great and I can only smell the plants when opening up the tent. The temperature seems to be more stable after this haircut.

You won't hear me complaining about the amount of budsites lol

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

I know next to nothing but gotta say ur tent is looking moist(very nice!!) From your diary, I think my photos are a month behind ur autos and my auto is a month older. Looking forward to watch your progress!

 

[One_Bell]

I know next to nothing but gotta say ur tent is looking moist(very nice!!) From your diary, I think my photos are a month behind ur autos and my auto is a month older. Looking forward to watch your progress!

Thanks man! I made a big mistake earlier on, by transfering the seedling from aero to rdwc, This was from Januari the 13th:

Too much nutrients unfortunately.

Especially the left one looks really stunted, 1,5 months after they look allright now, but I missed out of a week of growing I presume. After all, glad how they turned out at the moment. Hope those buds will swell.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Thanks man! I made a big mistake earlier on, by transfering the seedling from aero to rdwc, This was from Januari the 13th:

Too much nutrients unfortunately.

Especially the left one looks really stunted, 1,5 months after they look allright now, but I missed out of a week of growing I presume. After all, glad how they turned out at the moment. Hope those buds will swell.

They looked to have recovered well though! My auto went through way worse I believe! Not trying to brag but, I have done way worse on my auto It went through crown rot, crowded conditions, and a fim... not sure how it's still kicking lol

 

[One_Bell]

They looked to have recovered well though! My auto went through way worse I believe! Not trying to brag but, I have done way worse on my auto It went through crown rot, crowded conditions, and a fim... not sure how it's still kicking lol

Yeah luckily they survived. Can only think of how it would like if I did not made that mistake. Will be better next round lol, still not disappointed for my first grow.

Also, what a big difference a few weeks can make, these plants are awesome!

Besides that, it seems that the previous haricut has a beneficial effect on the temperature, max 24C/75F now with the canopy more open.

 

[One_Bell]

Day 59 (from sowing seeds, day 56 since sprouting and 44 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Today the plants will enter their 9th week since sprouting, and the white pistols are slowly turning into orange hairs. Also the buds seen to have grown a little bit.

I try to pluck away as much as yellow leaves as I can, since they have served their use. Slowly opening up the canopy a little bit more for better airflow and light penetration.

Before:

After:

Nutrientwise it seems that an EC of 1.3 or 1.2 is currently the sweetspot. I will probably do a res change in the upcoming day to switch to the flower regime again. Since they start to produce orange hairs I think it might be a good time? Today I added 3 liters of RO pH’ed water, but EC kept raising to 1.4. So I took some out of the res and lowered the EC. This was indicated by Perceys chart and also a post of RQS about nutrient burn:

The leaves or still a bit yellow and I clearly see some brown tips so I suspect it is a nutrient burn.

The heat problem I experienced was not really there. Somehow after the firmware update it probably reset the calibration for the temperature, resulting in showing a higher temp then it was in reality. Only realized this when looking at the other two meters in the tent. Good to have multiple to take out the doubting. Again, lesson learned.

To make sure there is enough airflow I installed a third ACI Cloudray Gen2 fan blowing under the canopy. All three fans are moving air in other directions at different times:

Should I switch back to the flower nutrient regime (instead of the preflower I am currently following)?

 

[One_Bell]

Day 60 (from sowing seeds, day 57 since sprouting and 45 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Unfortunately leaves are still turning yellow. I also noticed that the ladies were not drinking much, EC and pH started to slowly rise, so I lowered the EC to 1.2. I hope I don't fuck it up so close to the end...

Would the yellowing above been caused by nutrient burn? I did not change anything about the mainlight (still 52% = 249,6W, plus the undercanopy 20w+20W). So what could this be? @FloridaMike @THC_AeroGrower @Skinnypuppy80 do you guys have any idea?

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Day 60 (from sowing seeds, day 57 since sprouting and 45 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Unfortunately leaves are still turning yellow. I also noticed that the ladies were not drinking much, EC and pH started to slowly rise, so I lowered the EC to 1.2. I hope I don't fuck it up so close to the end...

View attachment 2385860

View attachment 2385861

Would the yellowing above been caused by nutrient burn? I did not change anything about the mainlight (still 52% = 249,6W, plus the undercanopy 20w+20W). So what could this be? @FloridaMike @THC_AeroGrower @Skinnypuppy80 do you guys have any idea?

I would not listen to any advice I have to give :) My guess, a nute deficiency. Yesterday you mentioned you are using a pre-flower regimen?! From the pics, I would think that you would be past that stage. Again, I'd follow other ppls advice over mine ;)

 

[One_Bell]

I would not listen to any advice I have to give :) My guess, a nute deficiency. Yesterday you mentioned you are using a pre-flower regimen?! From the pics, I would think that you would be past that stage. Again, I'd follow other ppls advice over mine ;)

Thanks anyway! Yeah I am back on preflower since I had this issues. It is something that you hardly ever read but some continue with their veg/preflower schedule into the first weeks of flower. But that timeline has crossed for me, so tomorrow I will do a change with the flower nutrients again I think.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

My nute regime is quite different than most. I premix a concentrate of veg and bloom mixes in gallon containers. After the veg, I would use these mixtures in different percentages till I got the recommended ppm(500 scale) for the plants current stage, slowly diminishing the veg mix every week. My first grow as well and am just winging it, I shouldn't be throwing my 2 cents in lol Hope you get it figured out!!

 

[One_Bell]

My nute regime is quite different than most. I premix a concentrate of veg and bloom mixes in gallon containers. After the veg, I would use these mixtures in different percentages till I got the recommended ppm(500 scale) for the plants current stage, slowly diminishing the veg mix every week. My first grow as well and am just winging it, I shouldn't be throwing my 2 cents in lol Hope you get it figured out!!

That sounds interesting. I just follow the GH/Terra Aquatica chart of their site, divided by half and mix that into 10 liter batches.

 

[Florida_Mike]

Day 60 (from sowing seeds, day 57 since sprouting and 45 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Unfortunately leaves are still turning yellow. I also noticed that the ladies were not drinking much, EC and pH started to slowly rise, so I lowered the EC to 1.2. I hope I don't fuck it up so close to the end...

View attachment 2385860

View attachment 2385861

Would the yellowing above been caused by nutrient burn? I did not change anything about the mainlight (still 52% = 249,6W, plus the undercanopy 20w+20W). So what could this be? @FloridaMike @THC_AeroGrower @Skinnypuppy80 do you guys have any idea?

I'm at a loss bro, I've never used Advanced Nutrients.
They look like they are starving, which is either a lockout,
or just being way underfed. The burnt tips suggest that
they are getting enough. So that would leave lockout; but
why? Are you able to see the roots now, or are you locked
out of looking bc of the webbing.


1.3-1.5 ec is what my GH chart shows for week 2 of veg, and 1.9-2.4
for most of flowering. I run 100-200 ppm higher than what the GH
chart calls for with no ill affects. I did burn the tips on Betty Lou, but
that was from missing a watering and running her up to 2100ppm.

I'm now having the same problem (burnt tips) in my 4x8 tent due to the reservoir
being too small. I can only get 17-18 gallons in it, but the plants are drinking
over 10 gallons per day, which requires 2-5 gallon top ups per 12 hour
lights on. If I miss a top up, it runs the ppms way up and basically force
feeds them high number nutes. I need to get a 30 or 40 gallon reservoir
that will fit under my frame to solve this.

Another thing is that I've never grown auto's which I know can be very
finicky. When I said most carry veg nutes into flowering, I wasn't meaning
to infer you going back to veg nutes once you were already on bloom
formula. Switching back and forth has got to be very stressful; especially
on autos.

My gut says more light and stronger nutes, but what we really need is someone
who uses or knows Advanced Nutrients. Your plants should be able to handle the
full power of that 430w light by now (I'm not suggesting to do anything tho
until some others chime in) altho people like @Gmix say to not go above 80%.
personally, my 4x4 has a 720w @ 100% and my 4x8 has 2-800w lights currently
@ 80%. The plants seem to love it.

I am going to switch to Green Leaf nutes once my GH supplies are gone as
per several recommendations including the Capt.

Ima call in the big guns to have a look, hopefully @Captspaulding, @Mikedin
or @Thatoneguyyouknow_ is around and can offer some advice.

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

EC and ph both rising is very strange. In most cases in a hydro situation if your EC or PPM readings are rising your nutruent solution would normally be going down in PH.

Usually in a rasing EC situation its because the ratios or nutrient levels are not where the plant wants them to be, they are uptaking water at a disproportional rate to the nutrients causing the ec/ppm raise. Usually this implies either your NPK ratios are out of whack for the stage of life the plant is in, or your just marginally above where the plants want to be feeding.


i see calcium and magnesium deficiency on these plants. But that doesnt mean its a deficiency per se, Thats your tell right there if both ph and ec are rising together**, calcium and magnesium rarely express as a true deficiency together unless your regiment just doesnt have any in it. 99/100 times you see magnesium and calcium deficiency together along side rapidly yelowing of lower fans you have an acidic lockout situation, which plays very nicely with the observation of a raising EC but not a raising PH.

In an alkaline lockout situation youll see a phosphorous deficiency start to exprss immediately following micronutrient deficiencies.

If you are using too much of a micronutrient calcium and magnesium can be locked out by an overabundance of iron and manganese iirc (not magnesium, manganese) present in the solution, causing build up of calcium left behind in the solution this could cause a raising ec and PH both. Is a non ph related form of lockout.

A downward drift of PH will cause a calcium magnesium and N deficiency expression, but its a lockout, and if you try to treat by giving calcium and magnesium you will make the problem worse, if it is indeed a lockout.

What is your current PH, PPM, and EC readings this morning vs rn? Are you using RO/distilled water? or tap water? Are you using cal-mag if the answer is RO/distilled? If so how much and how often? Does your multi part macro nutrient line up contain calcium and magnesium too?

Sorry if youve answered some of these, im quite dyslexic and doing several things at once rn and cant read the whole thread lol.

 

[THC_AeroGrower]

I'm just guessing, but it looks like your autos are hitting that mid-flower phase where nutrient uptake can get a little tricky. I think it was a good call on lowering the EC to 1.2 if they weren’t drinking much and your EC + pH were both rising, that’s usually a sign they were taking in more water than nutrients. I don't have any real answer for you, just some things you can check to get a better sense
The only other things I'd recommend checking are (in the order I'd check them):

Root health - Are they white and healthy, or looking brown/slimy?
Water Temp - Should be around 65–68°F. Too warm (>70°F) = less oxygen = slower uptake.
Make sure air stones & flow are still strong. Good oxygenation = better absorption.
Humidity & VPD—Too high or too low can mess with how much they drink as well. If it’s too high, they won’t pull up water properly. If too low, they drink too fast & leave salts behind.

 

[One_Bell]

I'm just guessing, but it looks like your autos are hitting that mid-flower phase where nutrient uptake can get a little tricky. I think it was a good call on lowering the EC to 1.2 if they weren’t drinking much and your EC + pH were both rising, that’s usually a sign they were taking in more water than nutrients. I don't have any real answer for you, just some things you can check to get a better sense
The only other things I'd recommend checking are (in the order I'd check them):

Root health - Are they white and healthy, or looking brown/slimy?
Water Temp - Should be around 65–68°F. Too warm (>70°F) = less oxygen = slower uptake.
Make sure air stones & flow are still strong. Good oxygenation = better absorption.
Humidity & VPD—Too high or too low can mess with how much they drink as well. If it’s too high, they won’t pull up water properly. If too low, they drink too fast & leave salts behind.

I'm at a loss bro, I've never used Advanced Nutrients.
They look like they are starving, which is either a lockout,
or just being way underfed. The burnt tips suggest that
they are getting enough. So that would leave lockout; but
why? Are you able to see the roots now, or are you locked
out of looking bc of the webbing.


1.3-1.5 ec is what my GH chart shows for week 2 of veg, and 1.9-2.4
for most of flowering. I run 100-200 ppm higher than what the GH
chart calls for with no ill affects. I did burn the tips on Betty Lou, but
that was from missing a watering and running her up to 2100ppm.

I'm now having the same problem (burnt tips) in my 4x8 tent due to the reservoir
being too small. I can only get 17-18 gallons in it, but the plants are drinking
over 10 gallons per day, which requires 2-5 gallon top ups per 12 hour
lights on. If I miss a top up, it runs the ppms way up and basically force
feeds them high number nutes. I need to get a 30 or 40 gallon reservoir
that will fit under my frame to solve this.

Another thing is that I've never grown auto's which I know can be very
finicky. When I said most carry veg nutes into flowering, I wasn't meaning
to infer you going back to veg nutes once you were already on bloom
formula. Switching back and forth has got to be very stressful; especially
on autos.

My gut says more light and stronger nutes, but what we really need is someone
who uses or knows Advanced Nutrients. Your plants should be able to handle the
full power of that 430w light by now (I'm not suggesting to do anything tho
until some others chime in) altho people like @Gmix say to not go above 80%.
personally, my 4x4 has a 720w @ 100% and my 4x8 has 2-800w lights currently
@ 80%. The plants seem to love it.

I am going to switch to Green Leaf nutes once my GH supplies are gone as
per several recommendations including the Capt.

Ima call in the big guns to have a look, hopefully @Captspaulding, @Mikedin
or @Thatoneguyyouknow_ is around and can offer some advice.

EC and ph both rising is very strange. In most cases in a hydro situation if your EC or PPM readings are rising your nutruent solution would normally be going down in PH.

Usually in a rasing EC situation its because the ratios or nutrient levels are not where the plant wants them to be, they are uptaking water at a disproportional rate to the nutrients causing the ec/ppm raise. Usually this implies either your NPK ratios are out of whack for the stage of life the plant is in, or your just marginally above where the plants want to be feeding.


i see calcium and magnesium deficiency on these plants. But that doesnt mean its a deficiency per se, Thats your tell right there if both ph and ec are rising together**, calcium and magnesium rarely express as a true deficiency together unless your regiment just doesnt have any in it. 99/100 times you see magnesium and calcium deficiency together along side rapidly yelowing of lower fans you have an acidic lockout situation, which plays very nicely with the observation of a raising EC but not a raising PH.

In an alkaline lockout situation youll see a phosphorous deficiency start to exprss immediately following micronutrient deficiencies.

If you are using too much of a micronutrient calcium and magnesium can be locked out by an overabundance of iron and manganese iirc (not magnesium, manganese) present in the solution, causing build up of calcium left behind in the solution this could cause a raising ec and PH both. Is a non ph related form of lockout.

A downward drift of PH will cause a calcium magnesium and N deficiency expression, but its a lockout, and if you try to treat by giving calcium and magnesium you will make the problem worse, if it is indeed a lockout.

What is your current PH, PPM, and EC readings this morning vs rn? Are you using RO/distilled water? or tap water? Are you using cal-mag if the answer is RO/distilled? If so how much and how often? Does your multi part macro nutrient line up contain calcium and magnesium too?

Sorry if youve answered some of these, im quite dyslexic and doing several things at once rn and cant read the whole thread lol.

Thanks guys for helping me out. Last Sunday I revered back to the preflower nutrient regime, but will do a res change today for full flower nutrients. Since these are autoflowers, they don't use as much nutrients it seems. Half of photo as a rule of thump.
It has been 15 hours since I lowered the EC to 1.2 and they drunk around 3 liters already. If I compare pictures it seems the tops have grown a bit also.

Also found this article about autoflowers in hydro: https://agradehydroponics.com/blogs...xxAbiOebKk-Nu92WWwviBFgykYMU-md6vYSvvA-Br6tbZ It states that most autoflowers won't goo over 1.8EC. I will mix the new res to 1.2EC again and will see how it goes from there.

I also noticed that, in order to get a correct VPD humidity was still 60%. I lowered it to between 45%-50% which results in a VPD of 1.8. That VPD is too high, but also high humidity can mess with the wateruptake so I suspect that also might have played a role in this situation. I will keep lower the humidity to 35% to 40% in the end I think.

 

[ForestSpirit]

Thanks guys for helping me out. Last Sunday I revered back to the preflower nutrient regime, but will do a res change today for full flower nutrients. Since these are autoflowers, they don't use as much nutrients it seems. Half of photo as a rule of thump.
It has been 15 hours since I lowered the EC to 1.2 and they drunk around 3 liters already. If I compare pictures it seems the tops have grown a bit also.

Also found this article about autoflowers in hydro: https://agradehydroponics.com/blogs...xxAbiOebKk-Nu92WWwviBFgykYMU-md6vYSvvA-Br6tbZ It states that most autoflowers won't goo over 1.8EC. I will mix the new res to 1.2EC again and will see how it goes from there.

I also noticed that, in order to get a correct VPD humidity was still 60%. I lowered it to between 45%-50% which results in a VPD of 1.8. That VPD is too high, but also high humidity can mess with the wateruptake so I suspect that also might have played a role in this situation. I will keep lower the humidity to 35% to 40% in the end I think.

Didn't cannabis go blind there?)