One_bell's first grow (F1 Epsilon auto, RDWC)

[One_Bell]

My gut says more light and stronger nutes, but what we really need is someone
who uses or knows Advanced Nutrients. Your plants should be able to handle the
full power of that 430w light by now (I'm not suggesting to do anything tho
until some others chime in) altho people like @Gmix say to not go above 80%.
personally, my 4x4 has a 720w @ 100% and my 4x8 has 2-800w lights currently
@ 80%. The plants seem to love it.

I am still doubting the lightintensity a little bit, allthough I can take good measurements now. The wattage at 52% seems to be little but the readings show 800 PPFD and a DLI of 54, which is with a 18/6 schedule. If you run photo's in flower on 12/12 you can crank up the PPFD since they will " only" be bathing in the light for 12 hours instead of 18.

The distance to the canopy also makes a difference. Mars Hydro suggests for this light 18"/36cm, if the leaves are not getting hotter then 28C. If it get's to hot they advice to hang the lightning higher. But to get the same PPFD/DLI you will need to crank up the lightning to get the same rseults as at 18"/36cm.

When the situation is stable again I will try to raise the intensity a bit I think, just to see and find out.

 

[ForestSpirit]

I am still doubting the lightintensity a little bit, allthough I can take good measurements now. The wattage at 52% seems to be little but the readings show 800 PPFD and a DLI of 54, which is with a 18/6 schedule. If you run photo's in flower on 12/12 you can crank up the PPFD since they will " only" be bathing in the light for 12 hours instead of 18.

The distance to the canopy also makes a difference. Mars Hydro suggests for this light 18"/36cm, if the leaves are not getting hotter then 28C. If it get's to hot they advice to hang the lightning higher. But to get the same PPFD/DLI you will need to crank up the lightning to get the same rseults as at 18"/36cm.

When the situation is stable again I will try to raise the intensity a bit I think, just to see and find out.

12 hours, and the height of the lamp from the floor is 167 cm. 10 l pot 350w 2x2 m 2016 301h

 

[Gmix]

I'm at a loss bro, I've never used Advanced Nutrients.
They look like they are starving, which is either a lockout,
or just being way underfed. The burnt tips suggest that
they are getting enough. So that would leave lockout; but
why? Are you able to see the roots now, or are you locked
out of looking bc of the webbing.


1.3-1.5 ec is what my GH chart shows for week 2 of veg, and 1.9-2.4
for most of flowering. I run 100-200 ppm higher than what the GH
chart calls for with no ill affects. I did burn the tips on Betty Lou, but
that was from missing a watering and running her up to 2100ppm.

I'm now having the same problem (burnt tips) in my 4x8 tent due to the reservoir
being too small. I can only get 17-18 gallons in it, but the plants are drinking
over 10 gallons per day, which requires 2-5 gallon top ups per 12 hour
lights on. If I miss a top up, it runs the ppms way up and basically force
feeds them high number nutes. I need to get a 30 or 40 gallon reservoir
that will fit under my frame to solve this.

Another thing is that I've never grown auto's which I know can be very
finicky. When I said most carry veg nutes into flowering, I wasn't meaning
to infer you going back to veg nutes once you were already on bloom
formula. Switching back and forth has got to be very stressful; especially
on autos.

My gut says more light and stronger nutes, but what we really need is someone
who uses or knows Advanced Nutrients. Your plants should be able to handle the
full power of that 430w light by now (I'm not suggesting to do anything tho
until some others chime in) altho people like @Gmix say to not go above 80%.
personally, my 4x4 has a 720w @ 100% and my 4x8 has 2-800w lights currently
@ 80%. The plants seem to love it.

I am going to switch to Green Leaf nutes once my GH supplies are gone as
per several recommendations including the Capt.

Ima call in the big guns to have a look, hopefully @Captspaulding, @Mikedin
or @Thatoneguyyouknow_ is around and can offer some advice.

Who what when

Burning ears

I'm at a loss bro, I've never used Advanced Nutrients.
They look like they are starving, which is either a lockout,
or just being way underfed. The burnt tips suggest that
they are getting enough. So that would leave lockout; but
why? Are you able to see the roots now, or are you locked
out of looking bc of the webbing.


1.3-1.5 ec is what my GH chart shows for week 2 of veg, and 1.9-2.4
for most of flowering. I run 100-200 ppm higher than what the GH
chart calls for with no ill affects. I did burn the tips on Betty Lou, but
that was from missing a watering and running her up to 2100ppm.

I'm now having the same problem (burnt tips) in my 4x8 tent due to the reservoir
being too small. I can only get 17-18 gallons in it, but the plants are drinking
over 10 gallons per day, which requires 2-5 gallon top ups per 12 hour
lights on. If I miss a top up, it runs the ppms way up and basically force
feeds them high number nutes. I need to get a 30 or 40 gallon reservoir
that will fit under my frame to solve this.

Another thing is that I've never grown auto's which I know can be very
finicky. When I said most carry veg nutes into flowering, I wasn't meaning
to infer you going back to veg nutes once you were already on bloom
formula. Switching back and forth has got to be very stressful; especially
on autos.

My gut says more light and stronger nutes, but what we really need is someone
who uses or knows Advanced Nutrients. Your plants should be able to handle the
full power of that 430w light by now (I'm not suggesting to do anything tho
until some others chime in) altho people like @Gmix say to not go above 80%.
personally, my 4x4 has a 720w @ 100% and my 4x8 has 2-800w lights currently
@ 80%. The plants seem to love it.

I am going to switch to Green Leaf nutes once my GH supplies are gone as
per several recommendations including the Capt.

Ima call in the big guns to have a look, hopefully @Captspaulding, @Mikedin
or @Thatoneguyyouknow_ is around and can offer some advice.

I would say

only in soil/coir albeit some strains can take the full 100% many fems can’t & hermie late in flower
Not the only reason fems may hermi late in flower however it’s one reason so I use a blanket 80% max in soil / coir
For various reasons

I haven’t run dwc I seen it done first hand & have limited understanding so I cannot say with confidence or experience anything about light lvls in dwc

Also genetics play a part as I do think regular seeds can take more abuse than fems.

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

I measured again today, I am at 51% of the 480W light and the ppfd is between 780 and 870 already. With the 870 PPFD I have a DLI of 56,5, is that enough you think? 45 is normal, 55 is already asking for additional co2.

Link: https://growlightmeter.com/autoflowering-cannabis-lighting/#par-ppfd-levels-for-autoflowers

Please keep in mind these are autoflowers, they need less of everything it seems.

Go 550w cap at 600w if you was managed to controlled heat the yellow you see is normal at this stage with autos seeds you will see yellow at the top leafs near bud depending on strain and if it was crossed it does sometimes have this defect.

 

[ForestSpirit]

It seems to me that everything on the reverse photosynthesis forcibly do not start but come out sneaky photosynthesis and on there 1000w well it does not work like that. A plant's susceptibility to light is directly related to the physiological balance of the root system)))

 

[THC_AeroGrower]

I’ve been thinking about how we talk about grow lights, and this thread really highlights an interesting shift we gone through over the last 5-10 years. Wattage used to be a solid shorthand for light intensity back in the HID days because most systems had similar efficiency. But with modern LEDs, wattage isn’t as directly tied to plant-usable light as it once was.

For example, a **300W Spider Farmer bar light** and an **80W Bloomspect box light** don’t necessarily compare just by wattage alone. The efficiency, diode type, and spread all impact how much actual light reaches the plants. That’s why PPFD and DLI are becoming the better way to measure what’s really going on.

Not saying wattage is useless—it’s still important for power draw and heat—but I think @One_Bell is on the right track and I see a lot of comments about watts at certain % levels which may potentially confuse the issue. The idea of setting a light at a given height, and intensity is to dial in a particular PPFD (in the case of mid flower around 600-800 µmol/m²/s).

That said, I run my SF3000 at 80-90% most of the time

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Go 550w cap at 600w if you was managed to controlled heat the yellow you see is normal at this stage with autos seeds you will see yellow at the top leafs near bud depending on strain and if it was crossed it does sometimes have this defect.

I’ve been thinking about how we talk about grow lights, and this thread really highlights an interesting shift we gone through over the last 5-10 years. Wattage used to be a solid shorthand for light intensity back in the HID days because most systems had similar efficiency. But with modern LEDs, wattage isn’t as directly tied to plant-usable light as it once was.

For example, a **300W Spider Farmer bar light** and an **80W Bloomspect box light** don’t necessarily compare just by wattage alone. The efficiency, diode type, and spread all impact how much actual light reaches the plants. That’s why PPFD and DLI are becoming the better way to measure what’s really going on.

Not saying wattage is useless—it’s still important for power draw and heat—but I think @One_Bell is on the right track and I see a lot of comments about watts at certain % levels which may potentially confuse the issue. The idea of setting a light at a given height, and intensity is to dial in a particular PPFD (in the case of mid flower around 600-800 µmol/m²/s).

That said, I run my SF3000 at 80-90% most of the time

He is doing good job lights have changed yes but I highly recommend any light that is sodium hay lights for flowering it’s the closest to minicing the sun rays which means more wattage bigger buds and the right thc

Wattage is key for big buds the only problem with running at 80% is wear and tear

 

[THC_AeroGrower]

Wattage is key for big buds

HPS lights definitely work (I've used them myself), but wattage alone doesn’t determine bud size. It’s about how much usable light (PPFD) actually reaches the plant. Modern LEDs can match or exceed HPS efficiency, delivering more light per watt with less heat. It’s not just about raw power; it’s about how effectively that power is converted into usable light.

PPFD = The amount of usable light reaching your plants (measured in µmol/m²/s).
Wattage = A measure of the electric power the light consumes.

Taken together, they tell you how efficiently your light converts power into plant-usable light. A higher-wattage light doesn’t always mean more usable light. Efficiency matters!

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

I

HPS lights definitely work (I've used them myself), but wattage alone doesn’t determine bud size. It’s about how much usable light (PPFD) actually reaches the plant. Modern LEDs can match or exceed HPS efficiency, delivering more light per watt with less heat. It’s not just about raw power; it’s about how effectively that power is converted into usable light.

PPFD = The amount of usable light reaching your plants (measured in µmol/m²/s).
Wattage = A measure of the electric power the light consumes.

Taken together, they tell you how efficiently your light converts power into plant-usable light. A higher-wattage light doesn’t always mean more usable light. Efficiency matters!

I could not remember the PPFD term so I just used wattage

Light/ray determiners the how big the yield you get if it’s high yield strain, facts.

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

That’s why you see most tents with reflector all around it

 

[One_Bell]

HPS lights definitely work (I've used them myself), but wattage alone doesn’t determine bud size. It’s about how much usable light (PPFD) actually reaches the plant. Modern LEDs can match or exceed HPS efficiency, delivering more light per watt with less heat. It’s not just about raw power; it’s about how effectively that power is converted into usable light.

PPFD = The amount of usable light reaching your plants (measured in µmol/m²/s).
Wattage = A measure of the electric power the light consumes.

Taken together, they tell you how efficiently your light converts power into plant-usable light. A higher-wattage light doesn’t always mean more usable light. Efficiency matters!

Yes that is correct. Also, the LM301H Evo led's are among the most efficient on the market at the moment:

This evening I changed the res out, so now I am feeding the flower regime again. I hope this helps.

Day 61 (from sowing seeds, day 58 since sprouting and 46 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc):

Nugs are forming :P

 

[Greenadian]

Very minimal experience running hydroponics (2yrs in Current Culture) and after killing the 1st 60 plants 2 weeks into flower using Advanced Nutrients, we switched to the Current Culture nutrients and they blew up!! We were hydro newbs, but that entire system with nutrients was simple and successful.

 

[One_Bell]

Very minimal experience running hydroponics (2yrs in Current Culture) and after killing the 1st 60 plants 2 weeks into flower using Advanced Nutrients, we switched to the Current Culture nutrients and they blew up!! We were hydro newbs, but that entire system with nutrients was simple and successful.

Thanks for sharing your experience, very well appreciated. I made the mistake to buy the starterpack. After realizing what else I had to buy (Coinnaisseur line) I switched to General Hydroponics(GH)/Terra Aquatica(TA). Buying the entire line of the latter was several hundreds cheaper then buying AN.

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

like Grenadian said it could be a change of nutriments. How many days have you been flowering now I can’t see it for some reason I remember saying 2 weeks and five days just up wattage means more power more light more growth more bud but remember if you can control the heat you will start see bigger buds soon. What blooming nutrition you using.

Also depending on the light it could mess up if you wanted to try make hash from the leafs.

Bag up the leafs with sticky the even chuck a few tiny buds into a freeze bag and throw it in a frezeer and google how to make hash icelator

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Also if your bored and want to just marvel at them sing to them they will be ever so great ful? Why your co2

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

If you want to see big buds get a co2 tank but don’t leave it in the tent.

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Dude looking at the orange bits you got about another two weeks just keep doing what your doing next week with the up wattage you will see fat buds

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Post pic again in five to seven days

 

[One_Bell]

like Grenadian said it could be a change of nutriments. How many days have you been flowering now I can’t see it for some reason I remember saying 2 weeks and five days just up wattage means more power more light more growth more bud but remember if you can control the heat you will start see bigger buds soon. What blooming nutrition you using.

Also depending on the light it could mess up if you wanted to try make hash from the leafs.

Bag up the leafs with sticky the even chuck a few tiny buds into a freeze bag and throw it in a frezeer and google how to make hash icelator

I think I was finally flowering sinceL Day 44 (from sowing seeds, day 41 since sprouting and 29 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc)

So that would make 17 days of flowering so far. According to RQS flowering should be around 4 weeks. I think I still have 2,5-3 weeks ahead?

 

[PlanetOfTheSeeds]

Y

I think I was finally flowering sinceL Day 44 (from sowing seeds, day 41 since sprouting and 29 days after transplanting from aero to rdwc)

So that would make 17 days of flowering so far. According to RQS flowering should be around 4 weeks. I think I still have 2,5-3 weeks ahead?

You want the Persill the white then orange hair to go short and turn amber or brown or even purple