Organic soil test results gone mad?

[legitness]

I had my soil tested and it’s fkin a annoying the lab said mix your peat to your old soil and send it in I told them I’m organic

The test results say only for agricultural land and results don’t apply to organic and peat based soils
So now I don’t know if I can trust it and there shut till after Xmas now

The levels seems through the roof I water with ro water on coots mix notill 5

Both beds have cal and mg and sodium through the roof
The pk is daft

Now some says it will cause lock out
Others saying it will make everything be there plant will take what it wants ?? Really so why the need for a test why if so high are the plants locked out I’m in veg in a big bed atm 6plants 100gal

 

[mysticepipedon]

Don't compare soil test results for row crop agriculture to what should be in a hydro solution. All that stuff is NOT available all at once, it's what they believe will become available through a growing season. The extractants are rarely water, they are solutions that are made to dissolve some of the currently unavailable nutrients in order to mimic what would become available through microbial activity over a few months.

That said, I don't know if this soil is too hot. I've never had potting soil tested. That pH seems high.

 

[oldskol4evr]

soil test on potting soil is hard to do , reason is the material it made of, as mysticepipedon mention and solid points, peat coco all your air isnt really a long term demand, both peat and coco , saw dust all like that can be used without issues but it does turn to pretty much mush over time, you have to amend it after 2 runs at the least.
im surprised you found some one that does the testing on potting soil
i use soilsavey test off amazon for my samples, they send results by email and pretty quick about it, i do this once a year and i buy the cheap ph and npk tester kit from home depot and keep my macro nutes as well as ph in check
i cant make heads or tales from your results
why or what happened for you to test? are you using scratched in dry amends ?

 

[legitness]

soil test on potting soil is hard to do , reason is the material it made of, as mysticepipedon mention and solid points, peat coco all your air isnt really a long term demand, both peat and coco , saw dust all like that can be used without issues but it does turn to pretty much mush over time, you have to amend it after 2 runs at the least.
im surprised you found some one that does the testing on potting soil
i use soilsavey test off amazon for my samples, they send results by email and pretty quick about it, i do this once a year and i buy the cheap ph and npk tester kit from home depot and keep my macro nutes as well as ph in check
i cant make heads or tales from your results
why or what happened for you to test? are you using scratched in dry amends ?

Yes I followed the schedule of been kelp gypsum etc
I tested cause it went like this
Notill was ok tasty n good
Notill 2 amazing buds went solid and yield up
Notill 3 dank and yield crazy beat my hydro
Botil4 purple stems and pale growth
Notil5 mg def cal def iron manganease everything u can think of


Same in my grow bed
This currently has plants in it and there doing the same I’ll go get a pic give me ten mins

 

[legitness]

Pics inc

 

[Oldchucky]

There are places in Cali that test soil and make recommendations specifically for growing weed. More or less. You can mail your samples to them. Haven’t tried them yet, but probably will this spring after I get it mixed and cooked. Check out imperial analytics in Arcata California. Looks legit. Just another alternative.

 

[oldskol4evr]

Yes I followed the schedule of been kelp gypsum etc
I tested cause it went like this
Notill was ok tasty n good
Notill 2 amazing buds went solid and yield up
Notill 3 dank and yield crazy beat my hydro
Botil4 purple stems and pale growth
Notil5 mg def cal def iron manganease everything u can think of


Same in my grow bed
This currently has plants in it and there doing the same I’ll go get a pic give me ten minskelp is great too but even feeding organics

you can over feed gypsum mate, all these you describe are micro nutrients, all your micro nutrients are controled by mangnese , it control all toxic levels .
from the bed below it looks to me like you are over feeding something , which caused a slight lock, not a make or breaker, are you feeding the worms malted barly?
even feeding organic amends you can over do it . you have the worms , feed the worms not your plant, feed the soil and the soil will feed the plant.
here is a tip if you want it, in that big bed, in between those plants take a coke bottle , right were the first rim starts and the label is , take a exacto knife and slowly cut that top off, then all around the bottom and half way up the rest of bottle take a soldiering iron and melt you holes all around that bottle , take your coffe grinds and egg shells crushed any fruits and veggie scraps and fill them into that bottle buried in the soil , bottle even with the soil level , once you have filled it take the top of the bottle and put back on, the insides will rot and them roots along with the worms will find it and is the best feed you can buy eat and discard to your plants
reason i said soldiering iron is the hole will be big enough for your worms to help out compost the goodies

 

[legitness]

you can over feed gypsum mate, all these you describe are micro nutrients, all your micro nutrients are controled by mangnese , it control all toxic levels .
from the bed below it looks to me like you are over feeding something , which caused a slight lock, not a make or breaker, are you feeding the worms malted barly?
even feeding organic amends you can over do it . you have the worms , feed the worms not your plant, feed the soil and the soil will feed the plant.
here is a tip if you want it, in that big bed, in between those plants take a coke bottle , right were the first rim starts and the label is , take a exacto knife and slowly cut that top off, then all around the bottom and half way up the rest of bottle take a soldiering iron and melt you holes all around that bottle , take your coffe grinds and egg shells crushed any fruits and veggie scraps and fill them into that bottle buried in the soil , bottle even with the soil level , once you have filled it take the top of the bottle and put back on, the insides will rot and them roots along with the worms will find it and is the best feed you can buy eat and discard to your plants
reason i said soldiering iron is the hole will be big enough for your worms to help out compost the goodies

Defo sounds fun lol
Yeah I didn’t even stick to the schedule to be honest neem kelp gypsum etc stopped most and used liquid kelp too

I am wondering if the soil test dissolved all material for testing and organic being slow release that would whack numbers up fast eh

On soil fed fert it would be different I guess
Yes manganease is the main and seems hard to find
Worm Castings are packed with minerals that are essential for plant growth, such as concentrated nitrates, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, and calcium. It also contains manganese, copper, zinc, cobalt, borax, iron, carbon, and nitrogen.
And Mo which is bacterial

I’m wondering to add more peat but how much I don’t know and a bag of worm shit to replace micro nutes and hope for some more mites etc lol I loved them bastards

Feels bad rebuilding it new it’s meant to get better n better n costs a fortune lol

I don’t wanna sacrifice yields though

 

[Homesteader]

I would add more straight peat and try to bring that pH down. Probably way high in calcium carbonates if I had to guess but overall the soil is still fine to grow with. I would assume you would need to monitor Nitrogen though. These soil tests are helpful to know somethings but not for others.

 

[Homesteader]

If you are looking for a natural source of manganese then shellfish or pineapple scraps should help a lot, especially if you are using worms. I would mix some about 6 inches under the surface and let them go to work on it. Should be available within a month or so.

 

[legitness]

If you are looking for a natural source of manganese then shellfish or pineapple scraps should help a lot, especially if you are using worms. I would mix some about 6 inches under the surface and let them go to work on it. Should be available within a month or so.

Ye but high ca can’t do shellfish shit

 

[Trixie]

The salt content in the soil is pulling the water out of the leaves and restricting nutrients from the plants.,
Most plants can tolerate sodium levels as high as 70 parts per million (ppm). High levels of sodium in the solute can also damage soil structure by reducing its permeability.

Can sodium be toxic to plants?
Sodium may damage roots through direct toxicity and kill sensitive plants. High levels of sodium can destroy the aggregate structure of fine- and medium-textured soils. This decreases porosity and prevents soil from holding sufficient air and water needed for plant growth. Google

 

[Trixie]

If you look at the soil test above the sodium ppm is 1410 and the max range is less than (<90) ppm. So you have 1320 ppm excess sodium in the soil which is considered toxic.

 

[Trixie]

Saline soils cannot be remedied with chemical amendments or fertilizers. They can be remedied by leaching, but you may first need to improve soil drainage by adding subsurface drainpipes or tiles. To leach, apply water that is low in soluble salts to move salts deeper into the soil. During each irrigation apply a greater volume of low-salt water than needed to wet the root zone. The extra water is called the leaching fraction. For example, water for a longer amount of time and, if warranted, increase the interval between irrigations to avoid overwatering and waterlogging the soil.

The best leaching water is rainwater because of its low ppm and pH, it pulls the sodium out with every application.

 

[MasterWatererJeff]

Soil testing for home cannabis production is the hot scam right now. Most soil labs can't differentiate between available and non available. If they don't specify nursery mix, poly protic h3 acid extraction, etc etc they are ripping you off. If they have static targets and do not consider ratios whatsoever, you should report the frauds,they are blatant fraud operations if they cannot explain their target numbers.

People just can't grasp how fraudulent the majority of professionals are in America. Especially stay away from the clowns running cannabis specific operations like Redbud, Buildasoil, Crescive etc. You can only trust proven non cannabis consultants like Glen Rabenberg: https://soilworksllc.com/soil-testing/

I've never once had a cannabis expert improve my grow whatsoever. Quite the opposite. Especially all these new "soil loyal" clowns. They just want to sell you fermented pumpkins in November and dandelion extract in May.