Outdoor Started Inside???

  • Thread starter OutdoorOH
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MrRojos

MrRojos

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Structure might be confused with bigger.Everyone has they're own style and that's awesome.
When I put plants outdoor that have 60-100 tops and has a big root structure they most certainly do yield more than untopped little ones.
With some googly work you will see long term prevegged grows that produce plants that produce plants which yield upward of 10#
If someone has genetics on here that a plant that has 2 -6 tops and is small/young and it will out produce mine with nearly 100 tops I would looooove to hear from them.start a thread this summer an let's check it out.
Yes a baby healthy plant is better than big old sick.. but is it better than a healthy very well sculptured beast?
To each his own wish everyone a great grow this summer.Growem big!!
 
tj Wise

tj Wise

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or... a 6 day cycle ending may 24th

1-Mar 6-Mar 18:00
7-Mar 12-Mar 17:45
13-Mar 18-Mar 17:30
19-Mar 24-Mar 17:15
25-Mar 30-Mar 17:00
31-Mar 5-Apr 16:45
6-Apr 11-Apr 16:30
12-Apr 17-Apr 16:15
18-Apr 23-Apr 16:00
24-Apr 29-Apr 15:45
30-Apr 5-May 15:30
6-May 11-May 15:15
12-May 17-May 15:00
18-May 23-May 14:45 >> 24-May 14:50
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

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This is a great thread.. if I don't have time to reduce the light all the way down to where I need it would you guys think the closer I can have it to my daylight hours the less susceptible I will be to early flowering? ?? Big thanks to OutdoorOH and everyone who had input..
 
Bulldog11

Bulldog11

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I think what blaze said is tested, and should be trusted.

However, I normally just set my indoor timer to what the daylight hours will be when I put my plants out. So, if I want to put my plants out on May 5th, I find the daytime hours for that day, and set my indoor timers accordingly. Watch out for daylight saving time switch, that can screw you up. This is for seeds. Clones I would put out on June 20th.
 
OutdoorOH

OutdoorOH

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Thanks everyone for the input, for my seed plants I'm gonna go ahead and start them on the hours of light for the date that I want to put them out. Sounds the best way to keep them from getting confused and going into flower . hoping for some big girls this year!!:cool:
 
maya42

maya42

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Here in norcal, June 20th is safe for cuts. Seeds are good to go anytime now.

I've noticed that you can put some clones out on may 20th with no problems. I completely depends on weather. If you get a week of rain between the 20th and the first there might be some problems. If it's clear , so are you. I like to be in the ground ASAP
 
SpiderK

SpiderK

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..... & over 95% are not even using the proper light spectrum for proper photosynthates when inducing early vegetative growth. ....

starch degradation, duration, regarding the internal 24hr-circadian timers within all plants and it shows up very clearly in most finished outdoor. another big mistake made is not having a 0 point when conducting testing, panic moves throughout grow changing nutrients thinking it's a issue when it's really something totally unrelated and infact was from poor planning. many, many .pdf university or scientific studies litter the web. keep it very simple goes a long way toward A+. now if your environment is not perfect then you can correct this or correct it or deal with it. growing is not easy because you have many moving parts that trigger the plants in it's life cycle. low temps going into harvest is another key, most people using light deprivation in warm climates are fighting an up hill battle indeed.

looking at pictures throughout a grow or finished product speak volumes. the plant should be as green on day 65 as it was on day 3 of it's life cycle speaking toward a healthy plant producing a proper finished product.
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
What happens if I drop my "24hour cycles " and then drop per day 30minutes or 1hr intill 18/6 ?

* Last year I did 24cycle without any early flowering (34 strains ,50 plants ,100-200gal pot)

? : Enough time to lower time of cycle or am I fucked? ( comments above make it sound fucked even thou I ended fine last year )
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

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18
Thanks everyone for the input, for my seed plants I'm gonna go ahead and start them on the hours of light for the date that I want to put them out. Sounds the best way to keep them from getting confused and going into flower . hoping for some big girls this year!!:cool:
Just a thought bro...being guerrillas getting them to big befor settind them out becomes a problem too..if you have to travel far or through thick woods..
 
SpiderK

SpiderK

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What happens if I drop my "24hour cycles " and then drop per day 30minutes or 1hr intill 18/6 ?

* Last year I did 24cycle without any early flowering (34 strains ,50 plants ,100-200gal pot)

? : Enough time to lower time of cycle or am I fucked? ( comments above make it sound fucked even thou I ended fine last year )

I'll try and find a .pdf university study regarding veg times. 24hrs is horrific I know that regard health.

I had some big problems with this forum / mods a few years ago or I'd be more helpful. Deleting post, changing my words in said post was a REAL turn-off indeed...... So I hit the road. But I'll try finding the .pdf and drop it for ya', one of my best friends in europe owns a very large orchid greenhouse so he's been a great resource on many issues. They are at the cutting edge and have many patens for artificial coloring & his partner has written 7 or 8 books himself - But the communist style heavy handed mod'ing is very tiresome on many fronts

Peace-

This is a good one - It might take me a bit if I can find it at all but I know 24hrs is not good regarding stress.
 
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SpiderK

SpiderK

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@Burned Haze

http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/28/5/552.6.full.pdf+html

OPTIMAL PHOTOPERIODS

For tomato, best growth and yield were obtained under a photoperiod of 14 hours (Vina et al., 1991; Demers et al., 1998b). Photoperiods longer than 14 h did not further increase yield. Photoperiods of 20 and 24 h can even decrease yield and caused leaf chlorosis (after 6 to 8 weeks) (Vézina et al., 1991; Demers et al., 1998b). Although long term use of a 17-h photoperiod does not increase growth and yield compared to 14 h, it might be interesting to extend the photoperiod to 17 h in order to increase total light provided to plants especially during the months with the lowest natural light levels (December-January). However, if a 17-h photoperiod is used, it is important that the dark period be uninterrupted, since splitting the dark period of 7 h in two short nights of 3.5 h (separated by a light period of 4 h) caused leaf chlorosis and decreased growth and yield (Vézina et al., 1991).

For sweet pepper, a 20 h-photoperiod was optimal for plant growth and productivity (Demers et al., 1998a). Yield under continuous light (24-h photoperiod) was equivalent to yield under photoperiods of 15 or 16 h (Costes et al., 1970; Demers et al., 1998a). Extension of the photoperiod from 15 or 16 h to 24 h decreased the average size of pepper fruits (Costes et al., 1970; Demers et al., 1998a).

Continuous light caused some leaf deformities (wrinkles) but no chlorosis in sweet pepper grown in greenhouses. Although long term use of continuous light is detrimental to tomato and pepper plants, tomato and sweet pepper plants can take advantage of the extra light energy provided by continuous lighting for a short period of time. Early vegetative growth and fruit production of tomato and pepper plants were generally improved under continuous light compared the 14-h photoperiod (Demers et al., 1998a, 1998b). However, after that initial period, plants under continuous light grew more slowly than plants exposed to 14-h photoperiod; so that tomato and pepper plant growth and yield under 14-h photoperiod were then equal to or higher than under continuous light at the end of the experiment.

Costes et al. (1970) also observed that continuous light improved the early performance (hastening of flowering and fruit set, increased early yield) of sweet pepper plants compared to a 15-h photoperiod. Therefore, it might be possible to use continuous light for a short period of time (5 to 7 weeks) to improve growth of tomato and sweet pepper, especially during the months with the lowest natural light levels (December and January). However, such a practice should be investigated in order to determine if short term use of continuous light might have residual negative effects on tomato and sweet pepper plants.

Tomato and sweet pepper plants do not take advantage (no increase in yield) when grown under photoperiods longer than 14 h (tomato) or 20 h (pepper). Tomato plants, but not sweet pepper, develop leaf chlorosis under continuous light. In the next sections, we will examine the role of the carbon metabolism, pigments, light spectral quality and day/night temperature differential in the development of these negative effects of long photoperiods.
 
MrRojos

MrRojos

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After what blaze said I checked the Web because he's a badass grower.
Found no scholarly research but found a piece by unknown person saying that a big plant grown indoors is less effective due to the plant possibly flowering early.
Also due to a plant possibly not knowing when to flower and being confused in its cycle causing it to either not vegg properly or start flowering to late.( to eliminate that technicaly could use supplementAL lights to add 8 hours to every day and stop using the lighting late july an on most strains and would begin flowering)
With no real research results from credible sources to go off of it kind of comes down to people's own experiences and they're skill set.
My grows outdoor have supplemental lighting that's used throughout the grow.I neglected to mention that.Even in summer they are used on the big plants to prolong the day for several hours nightly.(varies from strain to strain)
Usually stop using the lights around August 28.(varies from strain to strain)
Posts on here are misinterpreted often because when a person answers a question they sometimes do so without elaborating.There's sooooooo much more to growing massive plants that are vegged indoor than I'd care to type for now.Interesting the topic isn't discussed more.Keep a eye on my thread because will be doing exactly that.I'll also be growing outdoor plants the more typical way which is transplanting clones/seeds to outdoor.
Im new to forums and like that things I have seen an done personally are so under researched and or true or false.
Won't go into elaborate detail but basically after translating a monster bush outdoor add 4-6 hours supplemental lighting.When the cycle is really close to when usually flower begins stop lighting.
Way more involved (knowing your plant and have it dialed in,the proper equipment and setup,knowing areas seasons,etc) but as far as the question of is it possible and or beneficial to prevegg plants indoor to grow outdoor in my experienceschedule yes it has been and will continue to be.
Hopefully this year's grow will be seen by all both new growers and naysayers alike and used as a helpful trick in the future
 
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MrRojos

MrRojos

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Definitely a good point there
Definitely not a good idea to be carrying bushes around:)
Prevegging big plants in order to maximize they're grow season isnt something done easily and it's expensive.There's no point in doing all that work then putting them in the ground like regularly would be done.
Monster plants outdoor need more soil,water,nutes,suppport,etc than most situations will allow.
I only do a couple big trees a year because hell why not but by no means is the only way to go to grow a bunch.
 
SpiderK

SpiderK

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@MrRojos

That's the main reason I kept my outdoor plants smaller. If for some reason you can't visit the grow the water uptake is minimal. My state is not legal ( now it's very limited med ) so it also forced me to hide them even on my own property. The water required for large plants is quite high.

On a side note. I lost all my genetics etc because of security breach. I walked in on my buddies wife with another guy and later on was set up and introduced into situation " infested " with cops. Very close friend I knew for twenty years and at the time I told her going against my better judgement I would not tell her husband. A year later, I'm in a situation trying to land a license being introduced by our state for growing and the guys had all their ducks in a row with political connections. During the process they wanted to move some serious weight ( 200LB's )etc .... Total set-up. Lucky for me one of them ( who claimed he was an ex-grower out of michigan ) kept mispronouncing terms like guano etc..... It hit me like a ton of bricks during the second meeting what was taking place. They needed seeds etc ..... this and that. They had my #, address etc ..... So I came home and removed everything from the house and dumped everything that night. Total panic mode but in the end just lucky I figured it all out during process before I was " fucked " ....
 
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MrRojos

MrRojos

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Judging from the vegetation in the background that's definitely not colorado.
Plus the plants don't flower later in the season they just yield more than little plants/clones/seedlings etc.That article is directed to the comments that said doing that have no affect on yield and the research backing those statements.
Colorado gets snow pretty damn early especially in the mountains where I grow and I've been doing this for years.Big plants planted in spring equal monster plants harvested in fall.
@Bulldog11 seen yours and they were very impressive bro.But look at the thread tree farming an @markscastle post. That's what prevegged beasts do.
 
MrRojos

MrRojos

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@Blaze much respect man can u post a link to the research? I've been doing that for years and they always out yield my others but would hate to mislead anyone.
 
MrRojos

MrRojos

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I disagree with the 3x3 hole thing and a few other things in that article as well.
Should have put that in the link post.link was to show that a respected well known grower backs what I said about Prevegging indoor does in fact increase yield.
 

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