Ozone use for water sterilization

[hogan400]

Who is using it? I tried sending pm's but for whatever reason I cant send to a few members that mentioned it in other posts..

I use it in my protein skimmer for an increase in performance and to reduce parasites. This is also used in cities around the world for sterilizing against "algae and pathogens".
There are several reports and studies, the ones I find are for large scale greenhouse and nursery water sterilization. I understand how and why it works, just not the actual starting rates and performance rates to work in the "UC". I realize its very corrosive as well, and can eat plastics and metals. What methods are people using to for success? I was thinking a powerhead with venturi in the sump, or injection into the alita at small intervals with a nice digi timer?

Im not curious about Uv light sterilizers at all. PERIOD.

Maybe a few questions to identify proper usage in small scale hydroponics? It seems everyone has battled rot or slime and this is THE most effective sterilizer available, albeit most people dont understand the why, or how, and its fairly expensive to start for some. Whats a few hundo more to maintain a completely sterile and healthy system every single run?!
From what I understand it can only be ran for 1/2hr once or twice daily to murder all films, rots, slimes, molds, fungus' and algae's.

Chime in friends, this could be one of the biggest tools for indoor hydropnic root health in rdwc.

 

[hogan400]

Do you have plants in your pond? what size is your generator and how clear is the water? Is it absent of problem algae, fungus and the like?

Noted fact, many hospitals use it to scrub air coming in, as we use it to scrub air leaving our stinky rooms. But like everything, there is practical application. (typical effect is harmful to humans) I might spend hours reading about products to improve better performance, but application is simple. 1 tsp per gallon could grow em bigger, or healthier, but application time was less than 30 seconds.

My point is, Ozone treatment is def in use for hydroponic root maintenance already. Google it. How can we apply it for use in the "uc"?

I will say I have started threads that were pointless many times.... but then again people used to get a laugh at anyone claiming over 1lb plants indoors back in the day. lol, I had 12 plants my last grow and pulled over 12lbs.

 

[squiggly]

This just screams of danger to me. Beware ozone buildups indoors. Go UV imo.

 

[hogan400]

No worries, Uv is very good, it ONLY effects what passes thru the reaction chamber, theres no residual effect. If something makes its way into the root structure itself, it wont help unfortunately. If you get fish with parasites they either heal or die ya know. Same with roots. Ive had to remove worms under scales on Rare Angels from Indonesia, then treat the injury.. and boom.. fishes lovin life! I know of people using Uv and "Ozone" on ponds and aquariums with great results. I really like koi, there is a high end farm near me and Ive stopped in time to time.

Squiggly, what Im reading about is 1/1ooth of what would be toxic indoors and then only on for a short burst. Maybe I should post some links? But then are people gonna read em? hahaha

 

[Seamaiden]

I've worked with both types of equipment (aquatic applications) and it is my opinion that ozone generators may be better used to increase DO levels, and for sterilization UV sterilizers would be the better option ASSUMING decent clarity of the water column OR sufficiently narrow/thinned out stream to allow for sterilization of a hydroponic solution type of water column.

I'm curious what Indonesian angelfishes you had to physically remove parasites from. They're often collected with cyanide and parasitism isn't a typical problem. This suggests to me that perhaps you've sourced properly collected animals.
*I spent a LOT of years in the aquatic/exotic import/export trade, have written a good bit on aquaria, including issues with cyanide-collected animals, as well as had some involvement with non-profits, one aimed to rebuild reefs and the other's aim was to teach and supply fisherfolk with the proper nets for live animal collection.

 

[hogan400]

Sea maiden, I see you have a amador county cult ban.... you ever make it into stockton? I grew up there. Used to go to a friends shop called "twins". He always had the best and rarest goodies back in the day! His family owns/runs a wholesale collection and transfer in Indonesia. Top secret...lol

As far as angels and worms, I have seen more worms recently as more vendors are trying to be careful to not over buy from cyanide collectors. (Notice I didnt say forgo al together.) I have pulled worms from emperor, french, cortez, so, so many, typically the larger as the small angels dont heal up as well and make it. I will say almost all Bali fish are waay bad with parasites, leaves me to believe the practice of net caught has really been applied there. Net caught is the only way to go! I worked around the hobby for a long time in the bay and valley as youngster and in the pnw as a hardcore hobbyist in the last 15 yrs. I bet we may have passed each other over the yrs at some point. I agree on Uv working just feel we may be missing zomething with Ozone ya know?! Do a google search if you dont mind or have a little time to waste, read some of the recent greenhouse and nursery applications, Im curious what you think of the info. Seems the application is catching on only in the last couple yrs...

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

We have been using Ozone treatment for both air and water for many many years now. We were spending a fortune on products like H202 and other sterilizing types. The ozone generators eliminate the need for any of that stuff.

 

[hogan400]

I am curious how you treat?
Rez first and not ur system, or rez and hydro system. are you using orp meters?
What orp are you trying to maintain?
Are you leaving it on at all times, or intervals?
What size ozone machine for your per gallon usage?

Thanks much.

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

The water source comes first into the 6 stage RO system then exits and goes through the UV filter and into a sealed storage tank kept at 68F. The Ozone Generator is then run to treat the water in the storage tank. The general rate used to treat water for hydroponics is basically 2 minutes per gallon of water.

You would need to follow the Ozone manufacturer for treatment specifications and guide lines as far as how long to treat your water as this would vary (Most models we have worked with treat for 2 minutes per gallon).

The water then exits the storage tank and into a top off tank that is connected to the UC's EPI module.

All water levels are controlled by float switches.

We are not shooting for any specific target ORP values per say, but we do monitor these levels VERY close 24/7. We have found a direct relation between pythium and ORP levels.

We monitor from 3 different set point locations.

Below is a excellent link and source of information for any hydroponic users and how to treat your water to avoid pythium.

http://blog.enviroselects.com/2011/04/pythium-water-treatment-in-hydroponic-aquaponic-systems/

 

[hogan400]

Advanced bio hydro, thank you much.
A good idea for some inexpensive root control that I feel will change our industry in waterculture. If I only had this 2 months ago. Im so far behind, Im playing catch up. I have a 250mg ozone genny for aquatics use. Same principal. I was curious if you use venturi or ozone safe air stones? I plant to use venturi via a simple powerhead in the epi. I just need to find a solid starting point without having a meter.

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

It can save you some bucks and pay for itself for sure as we use to go through a good bit of 29% H202 and use to have to purchase other products as well like Zone which is not cheap and adds up quickly.

We use air stones but I have been thinking about changing to a Venturi style method as I think it would make the Ozone Generator more efficient.

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

Here is the model we use I am pretty sure. I will double check this.

When we first started trying to dial in the amounts we started with treating every 30 gallons of water for 20 to 30 minutes with the 600mg/h unit.

That is a safe starting point. You can monitor and work your way up from there.



It is a 600mg/h unit.

The Aqua-6 comes with everything you need to remove odors, kills viruses, destroy mold, bacteria and mildew along with sterilizing water; the natural, chemically free way. With the included attachments, this product will also sanitize aquariums and enrich massage oils, olive oil and lotions (for skin treatment, beauty regiments and natural, topical first aid usage*.
This model has soft padding to prevent scratching on any surface and is light enough (only 4 pounds) to hang on a wall (designed with built in wall mounts). This unit is also portable and may be moved from room to room, as needed.
Featuring a large, clear, LED screen, displaying the desired settings, this product is easy to operate. The energy efficient design uses only 20 Watts of electricity and the ultra-durable design, ensures long life. This model includes 2 free spare tubes.

Features Include:​

• Aqua-6 is a Multi-Function Ozone Generator that Treats Air, Water, and Natural Oils​
• Aqua-6 Produces the Highest Amounts of Ozone with a 600 mg/h Ozone Output​
• 15 Different Functions Timer; Repeat Timer Every 1 or 4 Hours with 2,5,10,15,20, or 30 Minute Intervals​
• 90-Day Manufacturer Warranty​

 

[urbanfog]

I have been considering a unit like this to help with res "critters".With the warmer months coming and going back to hydro for my grows, I started thinking about chillers and res temps. While in this thought process I was looking at ways to not only keep temps for my res's cool, but also keep any algae at bay. I know last time I used a regimen of 35% h202, and had few issues (temps here can go 103+ and my grows are in a insulated garage. anyway......I came across this and thought it may be a good addition for preventing some issues. Anyone have any experience?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUB-AQUARIUM-SUBMERSIBLE-13W-UV-STERILIZER-FILTER-AIR-PUMP-/150783158297?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231b606819#ht_5770wt_975

I was thinking horizontal on the bottom of my 25 gallon res, with a riser for my air control valve.

thanks all,
UF

 

[hogan400]

Im using Uv and it hasnt helped at all. Every situation is different. That may be fine for the things you need to deal with.

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

You could not have said it better Hogan400! UV alone will usually not be enough and for sure will not be enough if you are already experiencing problems.

Also keep in mind that "balance" is the name of this game.

We run 7 to 10 day cycles, then at the end of the cycle before a water change, we inject sterilizer's to "kill off" the population, NOT eliminate. We are lucky bacteria is plentiful because if we actually DID kill them all your plants would die.

Find the "balance" and you find some healthy plants.

 

[Papa]

Here is the model we use I am pretty sure. I will double check this.

ABH, you mentioned that you're using airstones with this unit. can you tell me more about your installation? i was reading the documentation on this unit, and it says to not place the airstone deeper than 4" into the water or damage to the generator will occur.

the efficiency of ozone treatment comes from the contact time of the bubbles in the water, if they only have 4" before exiting the water, it doesn't seem good. how do you have it set up?

 

[woodsmaneh]

The water source comes first into the 6 stage RO system then exits and goes through the UV filter and into a sealed storage tank kept at 68F. The Ozone Generator is then run to treat the water in the storage tank. The general rate used to treat water for hydroponics is basically 2 minutes per gallon of water.

You would need to follow the Ozone manufacturer for treatment specifications and guide lines as far as how long to treat your water as this would vary (Most models we have worked with treat for 2 minutes per gallon).

The water then exits the storage tank and into a top off tank that is connected to the UC's EPI module.

All water levels are controlled by float switches.

We are not shooting for any specific target ORP values per say, but we do monitor these levels VERY close 24/7. We have found a direct relation between pythium and ORP levels.

We monitor from 3 different set point locations.

Below is a excellent link and source of information for any hydroponic users and how to treat your water to avoid pythium.

http://blog.enviroselects.com/2011/04/pythium-water-treatment-in-hydroponic-aquaponic-systems/

I'm kind of wondering why you would do this when you have all the water contained so you can treat it with Ozone, why not use H2O2 more effective at killing everything. IMHO Just wondering why buy an ozone system when you can toss in 50 cents worth of 35% H2OH in to do the same job and also reap the benefits of the H2O2 eating the decaying root matter? Just wondering what I'm missing... The ozone treated water will have no effect on any pathogens in the root ball but the H2O2 would.

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

Woodsmaneh - The idea as I have already explained is "preventative" plain and simple. You should read the link I posted it will help you understand the basic principles for maintaining trouble free systems.

The water that goes into the EPI of the UC system is pathogen/bacteria free and RO filtered to perfection. We do our "water treatment" with the ozone generator BEFORE the water gets into the main system where the plants are.

By treating the water with ozone BEFORE it gets to the EPI of the UC system also ensures no damage is done to the UC system or parts by the ozone generator.

You want to treat your water BEFORE it goes into the UC system to avoid problems. If your water that is used in the UC system is pathogen free and RO filtered you will never run into any problems and your plants will flurish!

Again, the idea is to treat your source water BEFORE it goes into your UC system. Things will be better/easier to maintain across the board when your starting water that you use in the UC system is pathogen/bacteria free and RO filtered.

Sure you could use .50 cents worth of H202 but even at 35% that is not going to do sqwat really added directly to a UC system EPI. And also the cost of h202 35% adds up over time. It is hard to get for some people as it requires hazzardous shipping to get it shipped. And as mentioned with proper treatment and use with a ozone generator it will pay for itself several times over saving you in cost for h202 and other products like it.

Have tried many differnt ways and product to maintain problem free systems and this way works the best and saves a lot of money and time and effort. It is why the big boys in AG use them in green houses all across the globe and have been for many years now.

 

[Papa]

woodsmaneh,
as ABH has said, we were discussing the use of ozone for treating the water before it goes into the system, so no dead root matter and no intent to impact pathogens that are already in the system.
as with uv, the advantage would be convenience. once a decent ozone treatment system is installed, it should perform with a flick of a switch. no need to keep fresh H2O2 and measure it out. the quest is for an effective solution that is consistent, convenient, and has a lower long-term cost. my uv treatment achieves this. for the cost of 8 bottles of H2O2 i now fry the bejesus outta every living thing in my source water, up to 700 gallons a day . . . for years to come. i was wondering if ozone would be a realistic option for redundancy, and the unit that AdvancedBioHydroponics uses and recommended seemed like a steal at less than $70. now, it seems a bit fishy.


AdvancedBioHydroponics,
so, i purchased one of those ozone generators that you recommended. for $70, i figured i'd test it out. as i asked above, the documentation suggests that it will treat only a very small amount of water (their packaging shows the ozone being used to disinfect a glass of water) . . . and i have my reservations about its effectiveness when the airstones can only be placed 4" under the water level. from my previous experience with ozone, i know that an effective design is going to provide contact between the ozone bubbles and all of the water . . . . so i envisioned air diffusers at the bottom of my storage tanks bubbling up through 50-100 gallons of water at a time.
i wrote the company and received this response:

Thank you for your interest in our products. Please note the Aqua-6 is designed for relatively small quantity of water. Personally I use it to prepare 8 glasses of good quality water every day, that is filtered, in order to remove heavy metals and chlorine. An Aqua-6 customer made already the experiment in a small fish farm, placed the ceramic diffuser deep into the tank and the small pump did not last long.

perhaps i wrongly assumed that your system requires the use of more than 8 glasses of water a day?

 

[AdvancedBioHydroponics]

With that model (Aqua-6) we treat two 30 gallon storage tanks. The air stones are mounted at a depth of about 17 inches. We have our water tested every 6 months to ensure quality is maintained. The unit is now about 3 years old and still works like the day we got it. That was also the last time I purchased any H202 or other sterilizing agents, have saved SO much money its freakin ridiculous by NOT needing to buy that shit any more. You can also use a venturi type design which we are currently testing in a different system to "inject" the ozone.

You may need a bigger model depending on your tank size and the condition of your water.

Folks this is a PROVEN method as the AG industry has used ozone in green houses for many many years. It is not like this is something new ya know.....there is SO much information on it!