Painting Concrete Floor

[qupee]

I'm thinking about painting the concrete floor in my room but I'm not terribly knowledgeable about what's best for concrete.

It's currently not painted or sealed or anything that I know of. Small puddles of water will soak in.

I was looking around and found this Zinsser water proof, mold & mildew resistant concrete paint. That seems good (the drywall was primed with Kilz too), but I don't know if that will be durable enough?

I would guess to withstand dragging a heavy pot across the floor without scuffing it would require an epoxy type coat? And if so is there a single product to epoxy the floor white or would I look for a clear epoxy to coat over the Zinsser paint?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

[ShroomKing]

Bump

 

[stonestacker]

First I would duck tape some visqueen down for 24 hr to see if h2o comes up from the ground. If it does paint will not stick. Yes epoxy is better but it's more expensive and toxic fumes. ppe is a must. I used cheap cement paint it has held up fairly well over the last two years. I don't think I would use white again I'd go with gray if I had it to do over.

 

[tobh]

You'll want to use a sealer for sure. That Zinsser sounds promising. Most sealers are very durable, I used to do handyman work and we did a few concrete floors. Can't remember what we used though, it's been a few years. And do what @stonestacker said. If there's any moisture your painting will be for naught.

 

[lazyfarma420]

Since when this turned into a interior design diy painting site?

 

[sixstring]

i used this on my shop floor and it has held up real well for almost 3 years now and i drive my pickup and tractors,4 wheeler,lawn mowers on it.you dont have to use the color chips but it does make it look nicer and gives some traction. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...oxy-Garage-Floor-Coating-Kit-251871/100671423

@lazyfarma420 this does fall under grow room design/build ;)

 

[tattoojim]

epoxy always for the win!...only thing is that some concrete needs etched first, or the floor will peel up in sheets. mainly on that slick concrete

 

[sixstring]

yeah man that kit i linked does have the etching/acid included,pretty simple.mop floor,etch floor,paint epoxy and watch dry while you baked down :)

 

[tattoojim]

yeah man that kit i linked does have the etching/acid included,pretty simple.mop floor,etch floor,paint epoxy and watch dry while you baked down :)

nice bro..i didn't even look at the link dooh..lol

 

[We Solidarity]

Since when this turned into a interior design diy painting site?

you really are a lazy farmer aren't you?

Only use white if you plan on putting some sort of epoxy or poly (or both) over it, white paint holds lots of dirt/grime. You can also use a polyapsartic but they cure very fast and can set with air bubbles in them.

I've gotten around to using a pond liner on concrete, I like it a lot better (no stains, period)

 

[shemshemet]

I work for a certified epoxy coating company. Some good, and not so good advice here.

1. The vapor barrier test is a great tool, and 9/10 times you will need epoxy vapor barrier.
2. You must grind your floor first. Absolutely must. Go to home depot, rent the right tool, and grind your floor.
3. Vacuum vacuum vacuum.
4. Apply vapor barrier component.
5. Apply epoxy coating.

Polyaspartics as we solidarity says, sets VERY fast. Unless you know what you are doing, I would personally stay away. White eopxy coating (high quality) will not stain or hold any grime.

I am looking for residential solutions for a high quality epoxy system, but I don't see any. Not sure but I bet rust-o-leum is decent?

 

[qupee]

Thanks for the good advice. I suppose I should do the water test. It's not what I'd call a damp basement by any means and I'd probably be fine leaving the concrete bare, but having it all painted up nice appeals to me and I think it would help keep things clean.

As for grinding, I had read that. Will I be able to get into 90 degree corners ok? The room's all drywalled, caulked, and painted already.

It's also a small room, I could flood the floor with polyaspartic or what-have-you and squeegee it level quicker than it sets for sure.

As for home-owner oriented stuff, after some more reading I may lean towards Behr's concrete primer and 1 part epoxy paint, though I know that would not be as good of a material as pro-grade stuff.

 

[shemshemet]

For sure you will be fine doing nothing,

my advice is if you are going to do something, make sure sure sure you do it right. Epoxy prep can touchy stuff, but done right it will be an absolutely perfect surface for a grow room.

As for the corners, it depends on the size of your room. If it is a small enough room just use a hand grinder for the whole thing. I know plenty of people say acid etch, but I personally wouldn't risk it, you won't beat diamond grinding it.

Depending on the size of the room, and costs, you might want to think about skipping the vapor barrier test, and just using the vapor barrier. I feel as though it is easy enough, but a big room can turn expensive quick.

If you have done work similar before, the polyaspartic coatings are TOUGH. Yes the install, but the coating layer is very strong, durable, stain resistant, everything resistant lol.

Again I don't know about behr. I feel any big brand will stand behind their product, but check some reviews before you buy. You are looking for 100% solids epoxy. The products I have access too unfortunately are not available to residential customers. Wish it was easy enough to resell, but I really don't want to get into anything like that.

Good luck :)

OH! And don't forget slip resistance! Add some silica or quartz sand, or some new product the manufacturers are pushing. Grow room work can get slippery!

 

[ShroomKing]

Since when this turned into a interior design diy painting site?

Haha. Beginners handyman skills a must in growroom building. Imo

 

[DrFever]

personally if you own this property i would repair everything it will cost little more upfront but pay off in the long run ,, so with that said i would get some large fans etc wash and shop vac floor making sure its dry then second step is i would use some liquid self leveling concrete / sealer and do all floor once dried i would then purchase a large tarp blue on one side aluminum or silver / gray on other side place 2 x 4 's around your grow area , staple the tarp in place and your set containing any water leaks from your growing

 

[lazyfarma420]

you really are a lazy farmer aren't you?

Only use white if you plan on putting some sort of epoxy or poly (or both) over it, white paint holds lots of dirt/grime. You can also use a polyapsartic but they cure very fast and can set with air bubbles in them.

I've gotten around to using a pond liner on concrete, I like it a lot better (no stains, period)

Yea I don't have the name for no reason lmao

 

[tattoojim]

I work for a certified epoxy coating company. Some good, and not so good advice here.

1. The vapor barrier test is a great tool, and 9/10 times you will need epoxy vapor barrier.
2. You must grind your floor first. Absolutely must. Go to home depot, rent the right tool, and grind your floor.
3. Vacuum vacuum vacuum.
4. Apply vapor barrier component.
5. Apply epoxy coating.

Polyaspartics as we solidarity says, sets VERY fast. Unless you know what you are doing, I would personally stay away. White eopxy coating (high quality) will not stain or hold any grime.

I am looking for residential solutions for a high quality epoxy system, but I don't see any. Not sure but I bet rust-o-leum is decent?

tile clad..s &w and we use chip from CHIPSUNLIMITED ..armorseal over top

 

[sixstring]

Me and the wife did my 30 x 40 shop floor in about 8 hours and that was cleaning and etching to.i occasionally drive my skid loader in there to work on it,and it sweeps up much better than when it was bare concrete. I think i used 5 kits so 500.00 and like i said it still looks great.used that color i linked in my other post.i did not grind because it was a new floor and it has fibermesh in the mud.

 

[fishwhistle]

Me and the wife did my 30 x 40 shop floor in about 8 hours and that was cleaning and etching to.i occasionally drive my skid loader in there to work on it,and it sweeps up much better than when it was bare concrete. I think i used 5 kits so 500.00 and like i said it still looks great.used that color i linked in my other post.i did not grind because it was a new floor and it has fibermesh in the mud.
View attachment 536722 View attachment 536723

I used the exact same kits in my rooms(Home depot),just etched like six did and no problems.I left out the chips because i wanted it to sweep up easily though.No need to grind anything IMO,its not rocket science just follow instructions in kit.

 

[str8smokn]

I have used a concrete grinder and they leave about a 2" strip around outside edge of room,will not get up against wall tight either.

you can still see some glue marks here. Pulled up carpet and ground concrete down and used Baer concert stain kit.