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Is your finished product better with soil or hydro?Thanks again TK. I've been having some issues with soil. God knows, I need to get back to hydro, but your totally right. PH, is one of the major things you need to watch all the time. Since you posted that chart. I've even been testing the run of from the soil and that right there has answered some questions.
My meter took a dump and I was getting a false reading. I broke out the old trusted drops and BAM!!! My PH was "Way" to low, so I made my adjustments to my PH and to my meter. The best way to adjust a broken shitty ph meter is with a 22oz Fat Max framing hammer. It works every time.
Thanks again and I'll be keeping a closer eye on my ph. Both with a new meter and the droplets.
take care,
BG
Not been following this thread but just stumbled on this at the right time. Many Thanks Texas Kid :-)Here are a couple I had around for reference..
Tex
Molybdenum ? never heard of that one. Great charts Thanks @Texas KidHere are a couple I had around for reference..
Tex
I grow in Organic soil and have only been checking the ph before I add the nutes so I'll be more stringent in future, cheers folks.
what medium should I use with Kind Soil?that chart is very helpful for sure but i think all strains have a specific ph that they thrive best in you just gotta find it. thanks for the chart very helpful on the soil part.
is coco considered soil or hydro?Looks like 6.5 is where I need to be at for soil. So, I should be mixing up my nutz for 6.5 and then feed. Man, this soil stuff is driving me crazy. Can't wait to get back to Hydro.
Thanks
BG
It seems to me (and I've been practicing this, to great success), that you want to vary your PH. I use coco, so I'll feed it 5.8 usually for nutrients, but on occasion I'll go 5.5 or 6.3. When I flush (every 3-4 feedings) I'll give it 6.3-Straight-Tap. Coco buffers PH well, so I don't want to get a lot of Ph-Down stuck in my soil, affecting future feedings. I had another pertinent anecdote for this reply, but alcohol made me forget it.
One more outlandish idea that I agree with is my own hypothesis that if you have plants with very healthy/dense root masses, then having 'hot-spots' is beneficial... certain nutrients absorb more readily under certain acidic climates, so having spots which each are specialized in absorbing different nutrients might be the healthiest future for the plant
edit: DON'T OVER FEED!!! USE 1/3 OF RECOMMENDED DOSAGE TO BEGIN WITH, RAMP UP TO 1/2 THEN 2/3! YOU WILL DEFINITELY LEARN WHAT"S NEEDED MUCH EARLIER THAN TRYING TO OVERFEED YOUR PLANTS!
It seems to me (and I've been practicing this, to great success), that you want to vary your PH. I use coco, so I'll feed it 5.8 usually for nutrients, but on occasion I'll go 5.5 or 6.3. When I flush (every 3-4 feedings) I'll give it 6.3-Straight-Tap. Coco buffers PH well, so I don't want to get a lot of Ph-Down stuck in my soil, affecting future feedings. I had another pertinent anecdote for this reply, but alcohol made me forget it.
One more outlandish idea that I agree with is my own hypothesis that if you have plants with very healthy/dense root masses, then having 'hot-spots' is beneficial... certain nutrients absorb more readily under certain acidic climates, so having spots which each are specialized in absorbing different nutrients might be the healthiest future for the plant
edit: DON'T OVER FEED!!! USE 1/3 OF RECOMMENDED DOSAGE TO BEGIN WITH, RAMP UP TO 1/2 THEN 2/3! YOU WILL DEFINITELY LEARN WHAT"S NEEDED MUCH EARLIER THAN TRYING TO OVERFEED YOUR PLANTS!
I've been growing organic in soil for years with great success and the only time I adjust the ph is when I flush them with water adjusted to 6.0 for the last 2 weeks. During bloom I use either Bio Canna or Bio Bizz nutes or else some homemade guano teas. I always thought organic nutes self regulated themselves,ph wise, maybe if somebody knows better then they can let me know.
I thought a ph meter couldn't measure organic nutes with good accuracy, so instead of adding lots of ph up or down I just fed my plants the nutrient mix without adjusting it and my yields from it are nearly on par with my nft system, where the ph is constantly monitored.
I know I’m ringing in a little late here, just joining the place, but I think ph is important to know in every grow. If u don’t kno ur ph, then U don’t kno ur problems....but by all means....if u have no problems...u need not worry about ur phhow important is oh for soil brands that say you dont have to worry about it?
That’s the first time I’ve ever heard that...but we are a little behind times up in Alaska I guess. I guess I’ve just been taught to do it and so I do. But anytime I’ve had an issue w my plants, I’d check the ph, it would normally be high, 7-7.6...adjust with fish hydrolosite, and they get right back into step within 3-4 days. It’s simple science tho, if a plant will strive at its best at a certain ph range (5.8-6.5 for cannabis), why not at least try it and see if it helps? But like I noted before...if u have never had an issue with ur babies, u probly have never worried about the ph, and in that case I tip my hat to u Anytime it’s an easy process, we humans seem to really enjoy it .With soil they say not to usually worry about it cause they have a bunch of Lime in them to buffer. You still want to be in a certain range.
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