Plant probs

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Gamechanga12

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Hey everyone I'm new here and really need help. I have some plants vegging 24 hours under 1000 watt hps.. I don't know why the tops are curling up (pics attached) also all the tips on all my plants are curling downward like nitrogen problem but don't know why. I feed h16 nuts, nuts,water. Always use less nutes then the chart says. Pls help
 
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Gamechanga12

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CAM00322
CAM00323
CAM00325
 
Coir

Coir

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What medium are you in? I would get a really good scope and closely examine the those tops for broad mites as they can cause the look you are seeing. If it's not pest related then I would closely check the root zone EC and pH. Also, plants need dark time just like we do. 18 hours is plenty of light and running them 24 hours/day causes stress along with wasting emergy!
 
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Gamechanga12

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Ty I checked for BM and it's not that. How do I check root zone ph and ec?
 
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Gamechanga12

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I'm thinking of eliminating the 1000 watt and just using t5s so the plants aren't getting to much light would that help?
 
Coir

Coir

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Need more info on your space. Room size, ceiling height, etc.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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What medium are you in? I would get a really good scope and closely examine the those tops for broad mites as they can cause the look you are seeing. If it's not pest related then I would closely check the root zone EC and pH. Also, plants need dark time just like we do. 18 hours is plenty of light and running them 24 hours/day causes stress along with wasting emergy!
I agree with you on lighting, but this isn't quite looking like BMs to me, brother. It's looking like pH is off (the twisting of both large fan leaves and new growth).
Ty I checked for BM and it's not that. How do I check root zone ph and ec?
First, you have to have a way to measure pH and EC. EC stands for electrical conductivity and it's the basis for calculations also known as ppm (parts per million) and TDS (total dissolved solids). Using EC, measured in microSeimens, is more accurate since it's not a conversion to anything else. So a meter is what most growers use. However, for pH you can use litmus papers, I use them for measuring plant sap pH (when I think about it!). Otherwise a small electronic pen is what most like to use. Brand I cannot make a good recommendation for, because I only ever got a Hanna and then stopped using it for the most part.

I can tell you how I like to test pH and EC, however, and that's by the slurry method.

You take a measure of 0EC water, either RO (reverse osmosis) or distilled--measure its parameters (EC and pH).
Now, take some soil samples from the plant(s) in question. You want samples from the top, bottom and root zone, and yes, you'll probably have to upend the plant to do this.
Mix those samples together, then add enough to the water to make a slurry.
Let that set for 7-10 minutes, then remeasure. Those parameters are fairly close to what's going on in the root zone. My own thoughts are that it's not too bad, but you should probably let the pH range, and if it's been high you do want to drop it. Good pH parameters for cannabis in soil is 6.2-6.8. Soilless is lower.
 
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Gamechanga12

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I actually have a ph/ppm meter combo. Not sure how my ph s off I always check it. These plants been in veg for about 7 weeks since I have no room to move them yet... They are in hp promix dirt 7 gallon pots
 
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Gamechanga12

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I never had this problem along with the tips curling down.. I always feed below what the chart says so I don't see how I got nitrogen toxicity
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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I actually have a ph/ppm meter combo. Not sure how my ph s off I always check it. These plants been in veg for about 7 weeks since I have no room to move them yet... They are in hp promix dirt 7 gallon pots
Ok, what's the pH of the feed & water going in, and what's the slurry test telling us? Pro-mix is a soilless media, pH parameters should be in the low-to-mid 5s.
I never had this problem along with the tips curling down.. I always feed below what the chart says so I don't see how I got nitrogen toxicity
Those charts should not be considered a strict recipe, because they cannot take into account all the variables. Variables include environmental parameters (temps & humidity), frequency and type of care (are they being over-loved? Very common for cannabis cultivation!), and finally, what does the particular strain tell you?

This is why I have the charts and why I tell people to learn how to read their plants, because the plants don't know the formula, they only know what they're experiencing. Tips curled down is pretty much damn near always N+ IME.
 
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Gamechanga12

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Ph going in @ around 6.3 and I keep having the n+ issue but why? It doesn't make sense how am I feeding to much n if I feed very low? Nutes, nutes, water/tea or nutes, nutes, water. That is my feed
 
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motz

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keep the hps for flowering,could be heat related. The leaves look as if they are exhausted. Have done hps,metal halide and t5 flouro tubes and the T5 tubes hands down are the best looking plants. Nice and luscious green no way you get that color out of hps. To late now to whack'em back to 18hrs but next time ya know. Besides you are not getting anymore growth at 24 than 18 cuz the stress will mess that up. And it's just like someone previously said "plants need to rest also".
 
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Gamechanga12

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keep the hps for flowering,could be heat related. The leaves look as if they are exhausted. Have done hps,metal halide and t5 flouro tubes and the T5 tubes hands down are the best looking plants. Nice and luscious green no way you get that color out of hps. To late now to whack'em back to 18hrs but next time ya know. Besides you are not getting anymore growth at 24 than 18 cuz the stress will mess that up. And it's just like someone previously said "plants need to rest also".

Do they grow as fast and big under t5 as opposed to hps?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Ph going in @ around 6.3 and I keep having the n+ issue but why? It doesn't make sense how am I feeding to much n if I feed very low? Nutes, nutes, water/tea or nutes, nutes, water. That is my feed
In the *plant's* opinion you're probably still feeding too much. I think the pH is too high going in, I think you'll see some changes if you drop that a full point, too.
 
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Gamechanga12

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In the *plant's* opinion you're probably still feeding too much. I think the pH is too high going in, I think you'll see some changes if you drop that a full point, too.

Drop ph to what? I thought 6.2 to 6.8 was good for soil
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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If they're in Pro-Mix, as you reported, then they're not in soil. That is a soilless media. Drop the pH into the 5s, brother.
 
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Gamechanga12

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If they're in Pro-Mix, as you reported, then they're not in soil. That is a soilless media. Drop the pH into the 5s, brother.

thank you seamaiden I will do that. also, I am considering eliminating my ro system and just using my city tap water and let it sit for 24 hours to remove chlorine. I never had a problem with my tap I feel like when I started using the ro I started having problems what you think?>
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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Honestly, if the tap water wasn't giving you problems, then I would indeed go back to that. RO is wasteful, but I had to go to RO/DI when doing indoor because my well water was indeed causing me problems. All resolved when I switched to RO/DI.
 
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motz

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thank you seamaiden I will do that. also, I am considering eliminating my ro system and just using my city tap water and let it sit for 24 hours to remove chlorine. I never had a problem with my tap I feel like when I started using the ro I started having problems what you think?>
A little chlorine don't hurt,now I say a little chlorine and I also use soft water so that means it has salt in it and it don't hurt a thing
 
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