Plants Yellowing Big Time, Need Help Identifying Issue

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highlight3r

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Hi all, first time poster / noob grower here. I've done a deep dive on the web to try identifying my issue without posting yet another "my plant is yellow HELP" thread, but I'm at a loss, so... Here goes nothing. Vital info:

1. Growing from seed, outdoors in pots. Strain is BOGGLEGUM.
2. I have 2 plants, 4ish weeks into flowering. (I didn't keep a strict journal, which was a mistake.)
3. Plants are about 3 ft and 4 ft, the 4-footer is the one with the major issues, but now the 3-footer is turning pale and its lower leaves are yellowing as well.
4. Potted in 5 gallon grow bags. (Next time I'll go bigger.)
5. Soil is a mix of Ocean Forest and Recipe 420.
6. I water once a day, in the morning. Sometimes a second, smaller watering in the afternoon if temps are extreme (here in SoCal we've hit high 90s a few times this summer). I was paranoid about overwatering but I'm pretty sure I'm not -- the soil is very dry by the time I water and the few times I've let them go longer just to be sure, they've started wilting quite obviously.
7. I've tested my tap water pH a few times now and it always comes out around 6.5. I've added nutes and tested again, it's around the same. Since I thought pH might be an issue, I did a few waterings using pH down to get the pH closer to 5.5-6. Didn't seem to make a difference.
8. I used DynaGro GROW fert during veg and switched to their BLOOM for flower. I add the recommended dosage of a 1/4 TSP per gallon. Initially I was doing every other watering but as the leaves began yellowing I switched to every watering, thinking it was a nute deficiency. Hasn't done anything, from what I can tell.
9. No foliar spray. Honestly, I don't quite understand the concept.
15. I have the usual SoCal insects, nothing looks invasive or damaging, from what I can tell. Have used NEEM spray on leaves a couple of times after I noticed nibbles on the fan leaves. Worked well.
16. This is my first grow, so there's a lot I don't know. Very willing to soak up knowledge!

OK, so with the facts out of the way, basically my 4-foot plant started yellowing from the bottom a couple of weeks back, and it's gotten progressively worse, with more leaves turning pale green, then yellow, and finally withering to a brown, wispy husky. Also, the stems on the yellow leaves turn PURPLE, which you can see in the photos. (In general, this plant has had a pale look throughout flowering, which the web tells me is no good.)

The second plant (3-footer) has looked much more green and robust from the jump, but is now getting the same pale look toward the bottom and leaves are yellowing.

Again, I think I'm 4 weeks into flower, which seems too early to be seeing this kind of yellowing. All my research point to an N deficiency, but adding the DynaGro GROW nutes back in the mix to boost N levels hasn't done anything.

The other thing that occurred to me is that I should've gone with bigger pots, and maybe there are root issues, but it's way too late to re-pot now so I'm wondering what I can do to hold on through the next few weeks and manage a decent harvest.

Anyway, PICS are attached, would love your input. Thanks for reading and for your help!
 
Plants yellowing big time need help identifying issue
Plants yellowing big time need help identifying issue 2
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Plants yellowing big time need help identifying issue 4
Yellowing
calygrownog

calygrownog

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Ive been growing for years outside in raised beds and my plants do the same thing every year about this time of year. couple of my plants are three weeks in to flower and the others are two weeks in, due to me keeping lights on them to keep them in veg. longer. based on the pictures you posted it looks like its the older leaves that are yellowing and that is normal. If it was the newer leaves and sugar leaves then I would be concerned. I have noticed that not all strains get yellow leaves and drop them early but most strains do from my experience.
I do have one master bubba plant in a pot that is a little bigger than a five gallon size pot. The plant is about 4 foot tall and prob. root bound. I have to water the plant twice a day since it drys out so quick from all the roots and size of plant. I try not to let go to the point where it wilts just because I don't want to stress the plant and reduce yield. I live in So. Cal. half way between LA and Palm Springs,
Hope this helps.
 
DismalDude

DismalDude

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By the pics I'd say Pythium or blight which are pretty much the same thing.I know there is a treatment formulation using watered down Hydrogen peroxide but not sure on ratios.It may not be but the pics look like a classic example of Pythium/blight. Good luck!
 
H

highlight3r

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Thanks for weighing in, folks. I'll read up on Pythium/blight and see if there are any steps I can take. Meanwhile, I'll pray that calygrown is right and these fine ladies will make it to harvest OK, yellow leaves and all...
 
calygrownog

calygrownog

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Here is a picture of my masterbubba in a pot. Yellow leaves on the inside of plant, the older leaves but the plant overall still looks healthy.
 
H

highlight3r

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Read up on Pythium and it seems pretty uncommon in soil, especially given that I have good drainage with the fabric pots... Wondering if there's anything else it could be, as I'd hate to lose the harvest and more and more leaves are yellowing as it spreads upward toward older growth. :sweating:
 
DismalDude

DismalDude

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Read up on Pythium and it seems pretty uncommon in soil, especially given that I have good drainage with the fabric pots... Wondering if there's anything else it could be, as I'd hate to lose the harvest and more and more leaves are yellowing as it spreads upward toward older growth. :sweating:
I'm not sure what info you read but pythium/blight are mostly found in soil grows. Not trying to be controversial at all but I'm wondering what info you came across.I've only dealt with this type of pathogen outside in soil.
 
H

highlight3r

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You may be right, no controversy here! My searches led me to lots of articles about root rot in hydro systems. I understand it can attack soil-based plants too, but I was under the impression that it thrives in water and since I'm in fabric pots, it seemed less likely that my plants have been waterlogged...

Anyway, I guess the next obvious question is, if it's Pythium, are there soil-based treatments? Because I think I'm too far along in the growth cycle to pull these plants, clean the roots and re-pot. Was reading about OG BioWar in some other threads (and I'm a fan of Cap's results, based on what I've smoked)... Sounds like it might help?
 
DismalDude

DismalDude

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You may be right, no controversy here! My searches led me to lots of articles about root rot in hydro systems. I understand it can attack soil-based plants too, but I was under the impression that it thrives in water and since I'm in fabric pots, it seemed less likely that my plants have been waterlogged...

Anyway, I guess the next obvious question is, if it's Pythium, are there soil-based treatments? Because I think I'm too far along in the growth cycle to pull these plants, clean the roots and re-pot. Was reading about OG BioWar in some other threads (and I'm a fan of Cap's results, based on what I've smoked)... Sounds like it might help?
Cap's bennies can't hurt that's for sure.The only other treatment I had heard of was a 3% hydrogen water mix but I don't know the ratios.I'll see what I can find.Even if you did nothing you'll probably be ok but like you,I would want to try and fix it if possible.The bad thing about those pathogens is that in the end it's a death sentence.All we can do is nurture them enough for a finish.
 
DismalDude

DismalDude

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Cap's bennies can't hurt that's for sure.The only other treatment I had heard of was a 3% hydrogen water mix but I don't know the ratios.I'll see what I can find.Even if you did nothing you'll probably be ok but like you,I would want to try and fix it if possible.The bad thing about those pathogens is that in the end it's a death sentence.All we can do is nurture them enough for a finish.
The more I read on this I'm seeing that beneficial nematodes are probably the best route.Cap's has it along with other teas like cultured biologix dr. root. Mammoth p may help as well in conjunction with the tea.
I'm starting to get into organic growing and the #1 rule is feed the soil,not the plant.
 
1stGHgrow

1stGHgrow

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During this stage it's natural for the older fans to begin "dying"; yellow, brown, dried, falls off. If your using teas, keep a little high N bat guano or neem seed meal in your recipe.
 
calygrownog

calygrownog

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I just started using Mammoth P this year. Will see how it does. I picked up a free sample at my local hydro store and I was also able to get a free sample via Mammoth P website.

QUOTE="DismalDude, post: 2175533, member: 59060"]The more I read on this I'm seeing that beneficial nematodes are probably the best route.Cap's has it along with other teas like cultured biologix dr. root. Mammoth p may help as well in conjunction with the tea.
I'm starting to get into organic growing and the #1 rule is feed the soil,not the plant.[/QUOTE]
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

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IMHO.

Its a Nitrogen Deficiency.

Its a total 100% Internet Myth to reduce Nitrogen in flowering. It needs MORE of Everything.

Nitrogen to a Plant is the same thing as Protein in a human. Plants skip process.

Humans eat protein, and it turns into Nitrogen in our bodies.

Does it make logical sense to limit protein, when youre trying to GROW??? Makes 0 sense.

Also though this is a Hydro Feed Chart, and of course if your Organic grow is rich in everything, its as good to go as chemicals. Organic the plant will take what it needs if everything is available.

Also, not saying to use this fertilizer, only to give you an example of the Increasing Needs of Everything, not just Nitrogen for flowering plants.

4-20-39 Recipe 2017
 
calygrownog

calygrownog

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He said he had added Nitrogen back in but nothing has changed.

Maybe it has by now??

Again, I think I'm 4 weeks into flower, which seems too early to be seeing this kind of yellowing. All my research point to an N deficiency, but adding the DynaGro GROW nutes back in the mix to boost N levels hasn't done anything.


IMHO.

Its a Nitrogen Deficiency.

Its a total 100% Internet Myth to reduce Nitrogen in flowering. It needs MORE of Everything.

Nitrogen to a Plant is the same thing as Protein in a human. Plants skip process.

Humans eat protein, and it turns into Nitrogen in our bodies.

Does it make logical sense to limit protein, when youre trying to GROW??? Makes 0 sense.

Also though this is a Hydro Feed Chart, and of course if your Organic grow is rich in everything, its as good to go as chemicals. Organic the plant will take what it needs if everything is available.

Also, not saying to use this fertilizer, only to give you an example of the Increasing Needs of Everything, not just Nitrogen for flowering plants.

4-20-39 Recipe 2017
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Well, she is a little starved. Though it’s typical for some leaf death at this stage but a large number doing the same would lead me to believe its N deficit.
Combine the fact that it’s a large plant for a 5 gal, I use 5s too but I feed throughout the plant life.
If you ever notice the most expensive nutes always have a small N number in their bloom feed, why, well plant science as someone pointed out, requires the N to maintain it self even through flower.
See switching into bloom most overlook the fact that a smaller pot and soil quantity doesn’t have the nitrogen left in it to continue to feed the plant into its most critical stage.
So now that we have disscussed this.
What do we do?
Can’t repot as it’s a bit late into life
Then well Can we safely add a nitrogen regiment into our bloom? Yes, but what works best?
Organic method would be too late as it feeds the soil not the plant. Well luckily we have access to hydro solutions!
Yes u can use them in soil sparingly of course as it can cause burns and or lockout. I’ve used canna hydro veg nutes safely in soil along with their pk solution.’ Go 1/4 strength per gal. Feed 2x on day one, then feed every other day. No water in between.
Once you have stable green growth. I would resume normal bloom feed along with 1/4 veg/grow feed. And water your plants needs them. It will set you back a week or 2 and u will have to do a flush before harvest
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

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143
I do something similar.

I use Chem Gro fert. 2 different types, and added Magnesium/Mono Potassium Phosphate when needed.
I use

4-20-39 is Base Formula.
Then you add Calcium Nitrate...15.5-0-0
Epsom Salts.
MPK in flowering

Seedlings I use 10% solution per 5 gallons water, and FEED at every watering.. which is around 1/2tsp of the 2 base nutrients, and 35% of a tsp of Magnesium.

In 1st 2 weeks Veg the solution goes up to 1 tsp/5 gallons water, and 60% of a tsp Mag. Weeks 3-4 gets 2 tsp per 5 gallons water of each of the 2 base nutrients, and 1.20 tsp Mag.

Then early flowering 2 base nutrients stay the same and slightly increase Magnesium to 1.80 for 1st 2 weeks.

Then in weeks 3-4 I add Mono Potassium Phosphate a 2 tsp per 5 gallons, and also slightly increase Mag.

But I also constantly monitor the plants for any nutrient burn ect, and have had great success with this schedule.

Though this is partial, its a look into what Im doing for feed.

Basically I use smaller doses more often.
 
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