[Randog3]

Having some pest issues in my grow and it's breaking my heart. Plants were showing signs of deficiency made many adjustments to feeding and no results. Laid yellow pest traps on top of coco and after a few days very little pests of some sort had showed up in strong numbers. They look like little larva but some are in the middle of the stickyness, so they must have flown? The square on the strip is about an inch for scale. I have seen 4-5 flyers, not sure if same pest or different. Any idea what they are and best way to end their madness.

20 gallon botanicare coco moisture
Drain to waste
Technaflora base
Botanicare add

Symptoms:

 

[vek11]

Can't see very ckear but most likely in the gnat(maggots), family here is a link for you to look over as a guide, you'll be surprised with this read!!! http://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/
Look over your leaves between the veins and see if you notice any insect activity near the lower part of the plant on the leaves!!!

 

[Randog3]

I'm buying a scope tomorrow. Can't actually see any pests with the naked eye unless they are stuck to the paper. Thanks for the link

 

[vek11]

I'm buying a scope tomorrow. Can't actually see any pests with the naked eye unless they are stuck to the paper. Thanks for the link

Anything to help bro, most deficiencies are a direct result of reactions that plants get because of insects becoming present at the roots. They are at a stage that effects the roots. Do you use any form of microbes???

 

[Randog3]

I have added SOS and mykos to my feeding and have caps in the mail. What do you recommend?

 

[mancdank]

If those sins are jumping out of the Coco they look like root aphids man and that's what route aphid damage looks like on the leaves you needs to deal with that instantly like tomorrow tonight because I don't care about being right I Stonehenge don't want him to get crap information and I have to start from zero if you look at his picture of the first leaf of all the veins starting TLO that is classic root aphid damage and seeing that stuff is coming out of his medium that's another side of Route aphids and I told him if you look at the bugs six legs triangle kind of shape it's a root aphid and are starting to fly yes and no fungus gnats fly but rude aphids do also to add if you look hard enough and stare at your leaf you'll start to see stuff move on there if their stuff on there but either way you have something eating your roots and that's the worst probably could ever have with the marijuana plant that's the bottom line is that the stuff I was telling you about will kill anything he's talking about or I'm talking about so and so there's eating your roots and you can either let them continue to feast or kill them and sorry to hop in on this conversation I just know exactly what's happening to you i've dealt with every bug that's alive in Southern California I had to deal with bugs my whole life growing for 20 years yeah no matter who is right somethings in your roots and it needs to be killed before it destroys your plants very quick no matter who is right somethings in your roots and it needs to be killed before it destroys your plants very quick hey good luck man if you have anymore questions you give me a message anytime glad to help and hopefully it works out for you I'm sure it will if you take the right steps because it works for me I've never lost to bug I made that a goal dealing with them I'm never going to lose to a bug

What would u recommend for killing pests at the root zone ???

 

[Randog3]

Any idea what the difference of merit 75 wp and merit 75 wsp is? Can't find it on google.

 

[Randog3]

I got the wsp. I would love to try something more organic but this is my first run in this facility and I need to make sure these ladies make it through. Foliar and root drench? Any idea what mix per 100 gallons?

 

[Randog3]

6ml per 5 gal is that root drench or foliar or both?

 

[Randog3]

My leaves are beginning to taco also. Could the ra cause that or do I need to be concerned about russet or broad mites on top of the ra?

 

[Seamaiden]

This is why so many growers' bud can't pass a pesticide test. @Gargamel you're just guessing, if you've had RAs then you know the timeline, and you know what the plant ends up looking like, and it's not like this. You're tossing noodles at a cabinet and hoping one of them sticks, but what makes what you're doing so much worse is that you're advising use of seriously strong and dangerous pesticides in a very casual, not to mention incomplete manner.

I have had RAs, I see nothing and have read nothing that indicates RAs here. Nor broad mites. Nor russets nor spider mites. None of those. I see a plant that's wanting for P and possibly S and/or Fe. Given it's growing in coir you'd better have been feeding it Ca from the start or you're going to be seeing issues related to Ca- as well, and you'll just be chasing your tail (kind of like you're doing now).

Get a jeweler's loupe, 10x should be fine for scoping most bugs and definitely what you have on your sticky cards. Positively identify the creature before taking action. I wouldn't be surprised if it's fungus gnats, I feel that Spinosad takes care of them very well.

Having some pest issues in my grow and it's breaking my heart. Plants were showing signs of deficiency made many adjustments to feeding and no results. Laid yellow pest traps on top of coco and after a few days very little pests of some sort had showed up in strong numbers. They look like little larva but some are in the middle of the stickyness, so they must have flown? The square on the strip is about an inch for scale. I have seen 4-5 flyers, not sure if same pest or different. Any idea what they are and best way to end their madness.View attachment 568874

20 gallon botanicare coco moisture
Drain to waste
Technaflora base
Botanicare add

Symptoms:
View attachment 568875 View attachment 568876

You're giving woefully little information. What's the pH of the media? What's the pH of the fertilizer? What strength are you feeding at, and how often? Are you giving just water in between (I sure hope not!)? Are you accounting for Ca and Mg since you're growing in coir? What lighting, and duration? What's the RH of the growing area? Temps? What's the actual timeline of the problems you've been observing?

ALL of these aspects play a role in your plants' health AND its ability to utilize whatever nutrients you're providing it. Just because you see bugs doesn't mean ipso facto they're the cause of your problems.

I want you to comb through the thread in my signature line, INCLUDING the flow charts.

 

[mancdank]

This is why so many growers' bud can't pass a pesticide test. @Gargamel you're just guessing, if you've had RAs then you know the timeline, and you know what the plant ends up looking like, and it's not like this. You're tossing noodles at a cabinet and hoping one of them sticks, but what makes what you're doing so much worse is that you're advising use of seriously strong and dangerous pesticides in a very casual, not to mention incomplete manner.

I have had RAs, I see nothing and have read nothing that indicates RAs here. Nor broad mites. Nor russets nor spider mites. None of those. I see a plant that's wanting for P and possibly S and/or Fe. Given it's growing in coir you'd better have been feeding it Ca from the start or you're going to be seeing issues related to Ca- as well, and you'll just be chasing your tail (kind of like you're doing now).

Get a jeweler's loupe, 10x should be fine for scoping most bugs and definitely what you have on your sticky cards. Positively identify the creature before taking action. I wouldn't be surprised if it's fungus gnats, I feel that Spinosad takes care of them very well.

You're giving woefully little information. What's the pH of the media? What's the pH of the fertilizer? What strength are you feeding at, and how often? Are you giving just water in between (I sure hope not!)? Are you accounting for Ca and Mg since you're growing in coir? What lighting, and duration? What's the RH of the growing area? Temps? What's the actual timeline of the problems you've been observing?

ALL of these aspects play a role in your plants' health AND its ability to utilize whatever nutrients you're providing it. Just because you see bugs doesn't mean ipso facto they're the cause of your problems.

I want you to comb through the thread in my signature line, INCLUDING the flow charts.

I'm always interested in good info where can I read this :)

 

[Randog3]

This is why so many growers' bud can't pass a pesticide test. @Gargamel you're just guessing, if you've had RAs then you know the timeline, and you know what the plant ends up looking like, and it's not like this. You're tossing noodles at a cabinet and hoping one of them sticks, but what makes what you're doing so much worse is that you're advising use of seriously strong and dangerous pesticides in a very casual, not to mention incomplete manner.

I have had RAs, I see nothing and have read nothing that indicates RAs here. Nor broad mites. Nor russets nor spider mites. None of those. I see a plant that's wanting for P and possibly S and/or Fe. Given it's growing in coir you'd better have been feeding it Ca from the start or you're going to be seeing issues related to Ca- as well, and you'll just be chasing your tail (kind of like you're doing now).

Get a jeweler's loupe, 10x should be fine for scoping most bugs and definitely what you have on your sticky cards. Positively identify the creature before taking action. I wouldn't be surprised if it's fungus gnats, I feel that Spinosad takes care of them very well.

You're giving woefully little information. What's the pH of the media? What's the pH of the fertilizer? What strength are you feeding at, and how often? Are you giving just water in between (I sure hope not!)? Are you accounting for Ca and Mg since you're growing in coir? What lighting, and duration? What's the RH of the growing area? Temps? What's the actual timeline of the problems you've been observing?

ALL of these aspects play a role in your plants' health AND its ability to utilize whatever nutrients you're providing it. Just because you see bugs doesn't mean ipso facto they're the cause of your problems.

I want you to comb through the thread in my signature line, INCLUDING the flow charts.

Not sure of media ph.
I feed 1200-1400 every 2-3 days and did a water and drip clean flush 2 days ago.
I run technaflora boost and grow
1ml floranova grow/gal
Liquid karma
Cal mag plus
Silica blast
sos
Mykos

Ph nutes around 6.4
Runoff comes out around 5.8-6.0

Plants are 4-6 feet tall in 20 gallon pots
Botanicare coco gro moisture mix

Lighting are gavita 1000de eseries I have then dimmed to 600 watts with hps bulbs because I am vegging in my flower room while building veg rooms. Room size is 45x20'
10 tons ac
Keep daytime temps 75-82 rh 50-60%
Nighttime 68-72 rh shoots up to around 80%
I have 2 Phoenix 200 max in room for nighttime humidity and they are unable to control. I am purchasing 6 quest 155 duals tomorrow and installing on ceiling of rooms and ducting in.

I run same feed at multiple locations for over 2 years. Other spots with same genetics and food are thriving. This spot...not so much.

 

[Randog3]

New photos of damage. Also took some pictures of larvae with phone through microscope sorry for quality.

 

[Seamaiden]

I don't think those are a larval form of anything, they look like some kind of soil critter from here. I doubt strongly they are related in any way to the problems you're observing.

The NUMBER ONE thing to keep in mind with RAs is that they cause what can be called phantom deficiencies and it always seems to start around week 4. It also usually starts with heavy yellowing that looks like a mad crazy N-, that you usually try to correct but can't. And you're left standing there scratching your head going, "What the everlovin' FUCK??"

Also, you'd be catching flyers that look like fungus gnats, not little arthropods that look like springtails. Your headaches would be a world of hurt worse than what I'm seeing.

I'm always interested in good info where can I read this :)

My signature line is all links to threads I've put up to help other growers. :)

Not sure of media ph.
I feed 1200-1400 every 2-3 days and did a water and drip clean flush 2 days ago.
I run technaflora boost and grow
1ml floranova grow/gal
Liquid karma
Cal mag plus
Silica blast
sos
Mykos

Ok, I would drop the LK. I also think you're going to need to get another Ca-only product to supplement Ca here. My experience with coir and pre-made 'cal-mag' products is that the ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, it's usually no more than 3:1. 4:1 is a bare minimum, especially for coir cultivation.

I'd like you to start doing slurry tests, especially given the pH of nutrients you're feeding (it's too high).
Take some coir out of the container from two or three different areas, yes, you're going to need to dig down.
Put it into a cup with distilled or at *least* 0EC water (be sure to measure these parameters, you want to know starting pH and EC).
Mix the samples into the water to make a slurry.
Let that sit for 7-10mins, longer isn't required here, then measure the pH and EC parameters. Log it so you can track what's happening.

You don't say how much Silica Blast or how often you're using, but I don't think it needs to be in the fertilizer every feeding, at least not in my experience. A very little bit is really needed of Si.

Ph nutes around 6.4
Runoff comes out around 5.8-6.0

Do a slurry test as I outlined above. Get the fertilizer pH'd to that range (good pH range for coir is usually 5.8-6.2, with 6.0 being a real sweet spot for most strains).

Plants are 4-6 feet tall in 20 gallon pots
Botanicare coco gro moisture mix

Lighting are gavita 1000de eseries I have then dimmed to 600 watts with hps bulbs because I am vegging in my flower room while building veg rooms. Room size is 45x20'
10 tons ac
Keep daytime temps 75-82 rh 50-60%
Nighttime 68-72 rh shoots up to around 80%
I have 2 Phoenix 200 max in room for nighttime humidity and they are unable to control. I am purchasing 6 quest 155 duals tomorrow and installing on ceiling of rooms and ducting in.

I run same feed at multiple locations for over 2 years. Other spots with same genetics and food are thriving. This spot...not so much.

Have you run those Gavitas before? And are you running them at the other locations? Clones or seed? I've seen huge differences in the same spot, but just between slightly different phenos.

I see K issues along with strong P problems. It looks like the mains are purpled though, so I'm hesitant to use that coloration as an indicator of anything. It also looks like there was a Ca issue at some point earlier in the plant's life, but if those lowers that you're showing only just developed that, then I would like to see what a foliar application of Mg would do here. Maybe the Ca and Mg need to be increased overall.

If you're not familiar with doing the Mg foliar, here's what I prefer to do. IF it's Mg then you'll see a change in the shade of green within a few hours. Quarter teaspoon Epsom salt in a gallon of water + sticker-spreader.

If you've never run the Gavitas before, then I think that could actually be the source of the problem. Let me find Capulator's thread on how light spectrum can affect nutrient uptake. My mind was BLOWN when I read it and I know I haven't wrapped my head around it all.

IF none of those are the case, then the only other difference I can think of is your source water. Mine has caused me HUGE headaches, for indoor growing of all types I finally broke down and got a 6-stage RO/DI system.

 

[We Solidarity]

those are springtails...They aren't causing your problems. They're on page 1 of the first thread you posted this in.

And last but not least, a beneficial insect, the springtail

View attachment 301444

these guys resemble thrips, but are very small, clear, and can dart away quite quickly. Usually found in the runoff of pots after watering, having a springtail population isn't something to worry about. It is a sign that the soil biosphere (the rhizosphere) is balanced and in check. Springtails are known to eat spores and mycelia of pathogenic fungi that can cause damping off, as well as carry mycorhizzal fungi to root hosts, and control other forms of microlife that become imbalanced or disrupt the rhizosphere. Springtails are estimated to have some of the highest populations of any animals on earth, and play an important role in soil conditioning.
View attachment 301445
Springtails are nice to eachother, they know what's up. They're you're friends, too!


That's all for now folks, thanks for lookin!

those problems look 100% nutrient related...your runoff ph sounds super low with botanicare in coco mine was always over 6.5

 

[Randog3]

I don't think those are a larval form of anything, they look like some kind of soil critter from here. I doubt strongly they are related in any way to the problems you're observing.

The NUMBER ONE thing to keep in mind with RAs is that they cause what can be called phantom deficiencies and it always seems to start around week 4. It also usually starts with heavy yellowing that looks like a mad crazy N-, that you usually try to correct but can't. And you're left standing there scratching your head going, "What the everlovin' FUCK??"

Also, you'd be catching flyers that look like fungus gnats, not little arthropods that look like springtails. Your headaches would be a world of hurt worse than what I'm seeing.

My signature line is all links to threads I've put up to help other growers. :)


Ok, I would drop the LK. I also think you're going to need to get another Ca-only product to supplement Ca here. My experience with coir and pre-made 'cal-mag' products is that the ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, it's usually no more than 3:1. 4:1 is a bare minimum, especially for coir cultivation.

I'd like you to start doing slurry tests, especially given the pH of nutrients you're feeding (it's too high).
Take some coir out of the container from two or three different areas, yes, you're going to need to dig down.
Put it into a cup with distilled or at *least* 0EC water (be sure to measure these parameters, you want to know starting pH and EC).
Mix the samples into the water to make a slurry.
Let that sit for 7-10mins, longer isn't required here, then measure the pH and EC parameters. Log it so you can track what's happening.

You don't say how much Silica Blast or how often you're using, but I don't think it needs to be in the fertilizer every feeding, at least not in my experience. A very little bit is really needed of Si.

Do a slurry test as I outlined above. Get the fertilizer pH'd to that range (good pH range for coir is usually 5.8-6.2, with 6.0 being a real sweet spot for most strains).

Have you run those Gavitas before? And are you running them at the other locations? Clones or seed? I've seen huge differences in the same spot, but just between slightly different phenos.

I see K issues along with strong P problems. It looks like the mains are purpled though, so I'm hesitant to use that coloration as an indicator of anything. It also looks like there was a Ca issue at some point earlier in the plant's life, but if those lowers that you're showing only just developed that, then I would like to see what a foliar application of Mg would do here. Maybe the Ca and Mg need to be increased overall.

If you're not familiar with doing the Mg foliar, here's what I prefer to do. IF it's Mg then you'll see a change in the shade of green within a few hours. Quarter teaspoon Epsom salt in a gallon of water + sticker-spreader.

If you've never run the Gavitas before, then I think that could actually be the source of the problem. Let me find Capulator's thread on how light spectrum can affect nutrient uptake. My mind was BLOWN when I read it and I know I haven't wrapped my head around it all.

IF none of those are the case, then the only other difference I can think of is your source water. Mine has caused me HUGE headaches, for indoor growing of all types I finally broke down and got a 6-stage RO/DI system.

Sadly there are fliers that look like fungus gnats. Not many but the numbers are growing. My tap water is around 180 7.0. This is my first run with gavitas. I will try dropping my ph to 6. Some very successful growers in my area recommended I nute at 6.4 and 6.5. I always used to run around 6 in coco but they were putting my plants to shame so I adjusted. I silica every feeding. I will cut back. I added raw P to my feed yesterday and will hopefully see a change today. How can I know for sure if it is ra that are my problem?

 

[Seamaiden]

Ok, catch those fliers and get them scoped ASAP. I still don't think that looks like RA damage, but better safe than sorry. Also if you can get a good look at the roots, if it's RAs then the aphid/larval form will be present on the roots. IIRC they're pretty slow moving. I wasn't able to get a good look at mine, I badly needed glasses and wasn't ready to admit it. That's one of the reasons why it took me so long to figure out what my problem was.

The flyer females will stick to yellow cards, so catch a few of those and compare them to pix of fungus gnats. I've had my fair share of problems with FGs, too, and I've started using Spinosad to very good success, as a root drench. I don't think it would be effective against RAs unless you're using something of a very high strength, and even then I don't know if it is labeled for them.

The Gavitas, based on all my reading and what the manufacturer and reps all seem to be saying, may also be playing a role here. IIRC people need to adjust their feed, but I'd have to go back and see if it's got to be increased or decreased, but I swear I thought folks were saying it needs to be increased a bit under the Gavis.

If you were doing better pHing your coir runs at 6.0, then I say go back to what works for you. I have this same issue where other growers are doing better than I am using one method, and I try to duplicate it with less than pleasing results. I try not to chase my tail that way, ya know? Same with my sourdough, everyone says you've *got* to use a Dutch oven to get a certain degree of oven spring, and they may be right. But I really hate being burned and when I use the DO I don't get results as good as when I just use the baking stone.

All of this is as much an art as it is a science, because we're as individual as our plants and situations are.

Have you been through the Fun bug ID thread? I'm pretty sure there are some good pix of RAs and broad mites, as well as the damage caused in that thread.

 

[BigBlueBuds]

Those look like springtails to me like we-solidarity said.
My plants look like that when to much food in the soil. Like sea maiden said.
When I water and my ph runoff is lower it's usually a sign of nutrient buildup for me.