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Please help with how to add nutrients to RDWC

  • Thread starter Thread starter Richju2175
  • Start date Start date Jun 2, 2023
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Please help with how to add nutrients to RDWC

Richju2175 Jun 2, 2023 40 Replies 11,358 Views
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Richju2175

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#1
Good evening. Hope all is well. I hope you can help me or lead me in the right direction. How do I I add my nutrients to a 4 -13 gal plus 1 -13 gal rez. How do I add everything could you explain is it after I have it filled with water then do everything is my numbers only measured out of the rez? Thank you for your time.
 
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Smokey0418

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#2
The way I do mine is 5 gallons at a time.
Ro in bucket.
Calmag to (160-180ppm)
Then I add base and grow at there recommend rates to mix eg 8ml of base with 16ml of grow until I achieve (400ppm or .8ec) in veg.
Then flower I would work my way up to 1.2 using the same rate of calmag but with more base and bloom to get ppm up.
Ph it up to 5.8 or 6 depending on timeframe.
Dump in and do it over , 5 more times.
 
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Richju2175

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#3
Good morning and thank you. I’m sorry I’m going to reply back make sure I understand. I appreciate you for your time. So when you say RO are you speaking of reverse osmosis? If so I don’t have that well I do but it’s not hooked up. But that’s another story. So when I add cal-mag to water check water to get range of 160-180 is that correct? Also what is eg? When you say base? That would be like what? I’m sorry straight newbie here . Thank you for replying.
 
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Smokey0418

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#4
Some peoples water might already have lots of calcium and magnesium .

So one might not need to start bare.
My water is high in iron so I find i easier to use ro at this time.

Eg = example.

A bottle of spring water has cal , mag and salt few other things.
Total about 220 ppm .

So I start with nothing then add calmag to 160-180 ppm to start .
Then I add base and grow for example ( I use 2 part base grow, or base bloom) at the rates that manufacture says
( bloom now for me is 10ml base 15ml bloom per gallon) to achieve 400-450 ppm in veg (.8ec)

In flower the same but higher to 600-700ppm(1.2-1.4ec)
Without burning leaves turning
 
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Richju2175

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#5
Smokey0418 said:
Some peoples water might already have lots of calcium and magnesium .

So one might not need to start bare.
My water is high in iron so I find i easier to use ro at this time.

Eg = example.

A bottle of spring water has cal , mag and salt few other things.
Total about 220 ppm .

So I start with nothing then add calmag to 160-180 ppm to start .
Then I add base and grow for example ( I use 2 part base grow, or base bloom) at the rates that manufacture says
( bloom now for me is 10ml base 15ml bloom per gallon) to achieve 400-450 ppm in veg (.8ec)

In flower the same but higher to 600-700ppm(1.2-1.4ec)
Without burning leaves turning
Click to expand...
Thank you sir.
 
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Richju2175

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#6
Richju2175 said:
Thank you sir.
Click to expand...
Good morning. Hope all is well. So total water I’m going to need is 50 gal or so I have my water meter. So are you saying you make a batch every 5 gals
 
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Richju2175

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#7
Richju2175 said:
Good morning. Hope all is well. So total water I’m going to need is 50 gal or so I have my water meter. So are you saying you make a batch every 5 gals
Click to expand...
I just don’t want to burn up my plants or underf feed just don’t really understand how to add nutrients in the system properly.
 
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Smokey0418

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#8
I don’t have anything bigger to mix in so I just do 5 at a time.
Once I have done one , it’s very simple for the next.
In 5 gallons for myself I would have 20ml of calmag, 40ml base 60ml bloom .
This gives me 1.35ec (650-700ppm).
Also would need 1.5-2 ml of 80% ph up.
Looking for 6.
 
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simonkay

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#9
Richju2175 said:
I just don’t want to burn up my plants or underf feed just don’t really understand how to add nutrients in the system properly.
Click to expand...
Mate do you not have a ppm meter, or e.c. (electrical conductivity) stick to check the water? It would make your life a lot eaiser, you can compare your mix to the feed chart provided by your nutrient manufacturer.
 
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Richju2175

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#10
simonkay said:
Mate do you not have a ppm meter, or e.c. (electrical conductivity) stick to check the water? It would make your life a lot eaiser, you can compare your mix to the feed chart provided by your nutrient manufacturer.
Click to expand...
I did that I’m good just was looking for confirmation like I said didn’t want to destroy plants. To be on forum I would think peop would want to help if I can help I’ll exclude myself from the platform. But for me I want to help and answer questions if I can …., that’s all I have had post myself and seen others never answered. If your not into it for the grow or the finish people should just rest
 
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simonkay

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#11
Richju2175 said:
I did that I’m good just was looking for confirmation like I said didn’t want to destroy plants. To be on forum I would think peop would want to help if I can help I’ll exclude myself from the platform. But for me I want to help and answer questions if I can …., that’s all I have had post myself and seen others never answered. If your not into it for the grow or the finish people should just rest
Click to expand...
I dont know why you took my reply as negative. You didnt provide a lot of info and it seemed logical to have those devices first. I was just simply pointing out something that would help.
 
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Richju2175

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#12
Not at all sir . I really appreciate it. Thank you.
 
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simonkay

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#13
Richju2175 said:
Not at all sir . I really appreciate it. Thank you.
Click to expand...
What nutrient line you using? Does it say its specifically for rdwc or just hydro? Either way you use less nutes as rdwc (1/4 strength to begin) is more efficient. Bare in mind some hydro nutes sink to the bottom and clog pipes and resovoirs meaning regular cleaning needed especially when you see it caked up and dried at the bottom of the res. Thats why the nutes for rdwc are lighter and dont clog as much. I hated having a big res because i would have to climb in and scrub off the old nutes. Imo 2 smaller resovoirs are easier to maintain. Either way you want to change water every week to stop any nasties growing.

Get something like hydroguard to add beneficial bacteria that stops root rot which will be the main issue in hydro. Otherwise hydrogen peroxide works well if you need to sterilise the system but it also kills off good bacteria which you want to keep.

And because hydro yields massive nugs you can easily get bud rot like i did, meaning you need to use a dehumidifier if your RH is close to 60%ish end of flower, try and keep it 50% or less last 2 weeks.

Most importantly good luck
 
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Richju2175

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#14
Hey thank you I’m using supernatural lot of stuff I was given …. Lucky me but. I do have invested my time and money but I’m getting beat up by this stuff . But to answer your question I’m using supernatural nutrients it is the aqua. I do have hydrogaurd. I read something if your water is very hard you should ph it first before using supernatural im definitely learning the hard way.
 

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Richju2175

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#15
simonkay said:
What nutrient line you using? Does it say its specifically for rdwc or just hydro? Either way you use less nutes as rdwc (1/4 strength to begin) is more efficient. Bare in mind some hydro nutes sink to the bottom and clog pipes and resovoirs meaning regular cleaning needed especially when you see it caked up and dried at the bottom of the res. Thats why the nutes for rdwc are lighter and dont clog as much. I hated having a big res because i would have to climb in and scrub off the old nutes. Imo 2 smaller resovoirs are easier to maintain. Either way you want to change water every week to stop any nasties growing.

Get something like hydroguard to add beneficial bacteria that stops root rot which will be the main issue in hydro. Otherwise hydrogen peroxide works well if you need to sterilise the system but it also kills off good bacteria which you want to keep.

And because hydro yields massive nugs you can easily get bud rot like i did, meaning you need to use a dehumidifier if your RH is close to 60%ish end of flower, try and keep it 50% or less last 2 weeks.

Most importantly good luck
Click to expand...
What I have read and and tell me what you know if you don’t mind . But when using supernatural you should use all the other additives is that true.
 
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simonkay

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#16
Richju2175 said:
What I have read and and tell me what you know if you don’t mind . But when using supernatural you should use all the other additives is that true.
Click to expand...
Ive never heard of supernatural nutrients before, but if by additives you mean the calmag and hydroguard then yes, i would recommend reaching out to "botanicare" who make hydroguard and reach out to "supernatural" ,ask their opinion on dosage in rdwc. Surprisingly alot of these nutrient companies will respond quickly via email or twitter etc and provide solid information.
Regardless of dosage on the pack start light because you can easily add more to your resovoir the next day or two if you think it's hungry.

I can't confirm which way round you should mix these nutrients and additive with the ph down juice, but thats where the manufacturers are useful because every nutrient line is different so need to mix & ph in a different order.
 
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BillyBanchan

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#17
Richju2175 said:
Hey thank you I’m using supernatural lot of stuff I was given …. Lucky me but. I do have invested my time and money but I’m getting beat up by this stuff . But to answer your question I’m using supernatural nutrients it is the aqua. I do have hydrogaurd. I read something if your water is very hard you should ph it first before using supernatural im definitely learning the hard way.
Click to expand...

We all learn the hard way!

Keep in mind: mix your nutrients in a certain order to avoid nutrient lockout. pH adjustments generally come last. Measure carefully!

For example, I use GH Flora series, and I mix 30-40 gallons at a time. Here's a representative mixing sesh, and in order:

Beginning Water: 64° / 7.0 pH / .045 EC

Si - 2ml /Gal = 60ml
CalMg - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
Micro - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
Bloom - 3.6ml /Gal = 108ml
Gro - 2.8ml /Gal = 84ml
Humic - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
pH down

Final: 65° / 6.0 pH / EC 1.4 (700ppm)

B²
 
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Richju2175

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#18
simonkay said:
Ive never heard of supernatural nutrients before, but if by additives you mean the calmag and hydroguard then yes, i would recommend reaching out to "botanicare" who make hydroguard and reach out to "supernatural" ,ask their opinion on dosage in rdwc. Surprisingly alot of these nutrient companies will respond quickly via email or twitter etc and provide solid information.
Regardless of dosage on the pack start light because you can easily add more to your resovoir the next day or two if you think it's hungry.

I can't confirm which way round you should mix these nutrients and additive with the ph down juice, but thats where the manufacturers are useful because every nutrient line is different so need to mix & ph in a different order.
Click to expand...
Well thank you . I feel I shouldn’t use it since you say you never heard of it . Do you do RDWC? And what nut line do you use . I really want it simple but I don’t think nothing simple in RDWC hydroponics lol
 
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Richju2175

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#19
BillyBanchan said:
We all learn the hard way!

Keep in mind: mix your nutrients in a certain order to avoid nutrient lockout. pH adjustments generally come last. Measure carefully!

For example, I use GH Flora series, and I mix 30-40 gallons at a time. Here's a representative mixing sesh, and in order:

Beginning Water: 64° / 7.0 pH / .045 EC

Si - 2ml /Gal = 60ml
CalMg - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
Micro - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
Bloom - 3.6ml /Gal = 108ml
Gro - 2.8ml /Gal = 84ml
Humic - 4ml /Gal = 120ml
pH down

Final: 65° / 6.0 pH / EC 1.4 (70
Click to expand...
 
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Richju2175

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#20
Good morning. Thank you I was thinking about going with that brand . Do you use the sweetener for flavor as well don’t know exactly what it’s called lol
 
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Replies 40
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Started Jun 2, 2023
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