PM Again/2 Weeks To Harvest

[dorjewright]

I have a recurrence of pm on the sugar leaves of the green crack - where I least expected it. I've been paying really close attention to the white widow but found it on the gc this morning. Its really hard to see and distinguish from the natural frosting. I'm using h2o2 from Naturilite 29%, diluted 1/2 teas/gal + greencure 1teas/gal. I'm about 2 weeks from harvest. I was warned at the hydro shop not to use the h202 toward the end of harvest on the buds that I could end up with bud mold? And Seamaiden warned against a soapy taste from the greencure. Anyone tried Bayer Advanced, Disease Control? lThese are really nice buds some about the diameter of a silver dollar sure hate to lose them! What're my options?

 

[Seamaiden]

I would treat with OxiDate (27%H2O2 + 2%PAA [paracetic acid]) every three to five days until harvest at its lowest dosing rate of 1oz/gallon. Bayer themselves say not to use this product for edible crops, so there is NO WAY I would use it for smokable unless they were in an early vegetative stage.

I have literally dipped the entire plant (in Greencure) at the moment of harvest and not experienced bud mold. I would do this very same thing with OxiDate and expect to not get that soapy taste. I have had OxiDate burn plants, but those were being treated for PM vectored and exacerbated by root aphids and couldn't take much of any treatment. If your plants are otherwise healthy that is how I would proceed, again, using the lower treatment rate as frequently as possible.

***When dipping I tried to ensure that the plant was well-submerged, shook it off as well as I could when I removed it, and hung to dry off in an area with lower relative humidity until the buds were back to their "original" point (relative humidity/dryness of the bud itself).

 

[1971]

would a sulfur burner be effective? i'm experiencing a little of this right under my co2 generator :(

 

[Plinkerton]

A sulfer burner would work, but most would say that he's way to close to harvest. It might make his stuff taste bad.

Serenade seems to work well for PM, though a friend tried it for gray mold (it's supposed to work for that too), and it didn't seem to work at all.

Serenade is useable up to harvest, I believe.

 

[RareDanknessRep]

would a sulfur burner be effective? i'm experiencing a little of this right under my co2 generator :(

I've had GREAT success using a sulfur burner, but you never want to use one past week 2 of flower (unless you like bud that tastes like burnt matches).

I've also had good luck with Ed Rosenthals Zero Tolerance fungicide, but I wouldn't use it past week 3 or 4 of flower at the very latest.

In any late-stage PM situation, careful removal of affected foliage is important - and in a worst-case scenario, you can dunk your trimmed buds in Oxidate (or other H202 solution) after harvest with little-to-no affect on flavor.

 

[1971]

i've been removing the impacted leaves, which just happen to be under the co2 burner, but i just wrapped up week 3. so guess i'll have to find an alternative to the sulfur burner :(

 

[motherlode]

green cure will get you through the last 2 weeks for sure

never used it but the oxidate comes highly recommended

those are the only 2 things I would consider spraying this late on my hard work that I will be smoking

 

[MIway]

I would treat with OxiDate (27%H2O2 + 2%PAA [paracetic acid]) every three to five days until harvest at its lowest dosing rate of 1oz/gallon. Bayer themselves say not to use this product for edible crops, so there is NO WAY I would use it for smokable unless they were in an early vegetative stage.

I have literally dipped the entire plant (in Greencure) at the moment of harvest and not experienced bud mold. I would do this very same thing with OxiDate and expect to not get that soapy taste. I have had OxiDate burn plants, but those were being treated for PM vectored and exacerbated by root aphids and couldn't take much of any treatment. If your plants are otherwise healthy that is how I would proceed, again, using the lower treatment rate as frequently as possible.

***When dipping I tried to ensure that the plant was well-submerged, shook it off as well as I could when I removed it, and hung to dry off in an area with lower relative humidity until the buds were back to their "original" point (relative humidity/dryness of the bud itself).

This is really the only option so close to chop... anything else will leave a residue, some with greater consequence than others, but a tainting nonetheless.

 

[treehugger]

i've been removing the impacted leaves, which just happen to be under the co2 burner, but i just wrapped up week 3. so guess i'll have to find an alternative to the sulfur burner :(

This is not just coincidental, CO2 burners produce a lot of extra humidity that you need to account for in considering micro-climates within your growroom.

 

[1971]

normally i have my generator in the middle of the room, but it broke and had to be sent away for repair. the one i bought to tie me over is too large to fit in the original spot :(

i'm wondering if i drop my humidity from 50% to 40%, if that would help along with better airflow at this spot

 

[BCrocker]

normally i have my generator in the middle of the room, but it broke and had to be sent away for repair. the one i bought to tie me over is too large to fit in the original spot :(

i'm wondering if i drop my humidity from 50% to 40%, if that would help along with better airflow at this spot

If there is PM in this spot right now, you need to kill it first before adding airflow.. I have made that mistake before and it spread quick.

 

[1971]

i should have clarified... i removed everything I could find that had PM and then directed some air under the canopy in that area.

I'm hoping once I get my other generator back, i'll be able to put it in the middle again.

luckily it wasn't very noticeable so hopefully it doesn't spread :(

 

[Seamaiden]

Simple stylet oil (one kind of horticultural oil) is a good method for stopping the fruiting bodies and can be used fairly close to harvest, may even be fine up to harvest. I've also used a product called Soya'nara, but my bottle has gone rancid (you know that smell bad grease or oil gets? it's that stink) and so there's no way I could use it on anything but vegging plants. These types of products should be included in PM IPM, as they're physical barriers.

 

[1971]

i'm going to order up some oxidate and hurry up and finish my second grow room. then i can thin out the plants and transfer some over to the new room and that should help the situation.

it sucks that oxidate comes in 2.5 gal. :( I do appreciate everybody's input!

 

[dorjewright]

Nutrilife has a 1/2 qt size. My local hydro shop recommended SNS 244 a thin degradable thyme oil use up to harvest. We'll see. Did some serious thinning and added a dehumidifier.
This is probably better on another topic but I need to cut down my air exchange to allow the dehumidifier to work; What's the minimum air exchange that's ok for nighttime?

 

[Mitygrows]

U need to be useing rhino skin or something like it tell week seven trust me it helps

 

[dorjewright]

got it. Had stopped using a few weeks ago will begin again.

 

[1971]

well, things are better since i lowered my co2 levels. :) should have that oxidate by early next week