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Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

  • Thread starter Thread starter UCHQ
  • Start date Start date Jun 7, 2011
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Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

UCHQ Jun 7, 2011 528 Replies 90,381 Views
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sprocket

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Dec 10, 2011
#301
root aphids

any one now how to get rid of root aphids in under current system.have some merit 75 but scared to use it?
 

Onespark

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Dec 10, 2011
#302
sprocket said:
any one now how to get rid of root aphids in under current system.have some merit 75 but scared to use it?
Click to expand...

How far along are the RA's? Do you have flyers? Are the plants showing stress? I was able to colonize MET 52 into my root pots on one run when I had RA's. Saved the day on one system and I lost one system, but I caught it quick. It only takes a week for them to decimate an UC. Met colonizes in the pot but you don't want any of it in the res below. I rinsed everything down with H2O2 and then rinsed with water then added the MET. Colonized up in a three or four days and the RA's are gone after two weeks. You have to clean out your system a bunch during this time. Should be a liquid version dropping this month that you could use in the res. Hopefully this helps.

Thanks Ttystik- I have had the tea running since yesterday. I was careful to flush out the H2O2 before adding the bennies with no food. I am about to slowly bring my EC to .5 over today. Crossing my fingers
 

desertsquirrel

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Dec 10, 2011
#303
sprocket said:
any one now how to get rid of root aphids in under current system.have some merit 75 but scared to use it?
Click to expand...

The merit will work. If your scared to run it get bayer tree and shrub, its a more diluted form of merit. One application recirculated for an hour will kill them all.
 

motherlode

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Dec 10, 2011
#304
sprocket said:
any one now how to get rid of root aphids in under current system.have some merit 75 but scared to use it?
Click to expand...


if your in flower you shouldnt use merit or tree and shrub
 
P

phup

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Dec 10, 2011
#305
BTK for root aphids. Kills them dead, doesn't harm the plant.
 

motherlode

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#306
Posts were deleted

take the pissing match elsewhere fellas - lets keep this thread on point

phup said:
BTK for root aphids. Kills them dead, doesn't harm the plant.
Click to expand...


whats BTK?
 
B

Buddy Hemphill

Guest
Dec 11, 2011
#307
desertsquirrel said:
The merit will work. If your scared to run it get bayer tree and shrub, its a more diluted form of merit. One application recirculated for an hour will kill them all.
Click to expand...

Fur shure! 1/2 tsp / 5 gallons. I keep a bottle of M75 and hit EVERYTHING with it in early veg. It has a 60 day systemic effect. from cut to flip is usually 30 days for me with 60 days flower minimum.


motherlode said:
if your in flower you shouldnt use merit or tree and shrub
Click to expand...

Fur shure fur DAMN shure! You dont wanna be passin that joint to anybody at all.




How does BTi (Dunks and stuff...I use MicrobeLift) perform in a UC? Any funky stuff satrt growing?
 
B

Buddy Hemphill

Guest
Dec 11, 2011
#308
motherlode said:
take the pissing match elsewhere fellas - lets keep this thread on point




whats BTK?
Click to expand...

Bind Torture and KILL those little fockers!
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#309
ttystikk said:
Things are definitely looking up. Looks like you caught the rot before it got too far, which is essential- and not easy to do, so props for that!

Start with a low EC and bring it up slowly, so your roots can handle it.

Be certain all the H2O2 is out of the system before addig any beneficial microbes, as the H2O2 will kill all microbes indiscriminately.

Remember that the colder your water is, the MORE dissolved oxygen it can hold in solution. This is good for beneficials and bad for rot, slime and pythium. Keep your res. temps where they are, or even a bit lower. Won't hurt a thing. I actually run mine at 64 with good results.

And one more thing; don't put the molasses or any other microbe food in the hydro water- it will feed everything in there, which could well include the nasty microbes you're trying to get rid of!
Click to expand...

yes colder the better i have my water at 60 going to 55 next round & the same with my room... colder the better, i am sorry for the pissing match ttystikk... :passingjoint:
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#310
ttystikk said:
What worked best for me to keep humidity stable was to slow down the rate of air turnover. If air is cycling through the room too quickly, humidity never has a chance to build up.
Click to expand...

:bong2:
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#311
woodsmaneh said:
I need to find a humidifier for my room, I have a 13 gal system now but I need at least twice that. Any suggestions would be helpful. I can buy another but space is valuable in the room.
Click to expand...

I believe the air flow in the room should be maxed out day & night non stop, do not slow the air flow down the more air on the plants the stronger they get the bigger the stalks will become & then bigger the buds, heaver the buds get the bigger the stalks needs to be in order for the plant to hold the buds up to the light with out drooping over by weight... make sure you have occulting fans on HIGH..i use a fan in each corner of the grow room...so i have 4 of them..on high.. that represent the wind outside.....and if your plants are long and skinny is because you dont have enough wind to make a plant trunk bigger and stiffer..which in return permits you to grow bigger plants without having them fold over by the buds weights... :bong2:
 
B

Buddy Hemphill

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Dec 11, 2011
#312
Phaivor said:
I believe the air flow in the room should be maxed out day & night non stop, do not slow the air flow down the more air on the plants the stronger they get the bigger the stalks will become & then bigger the buds, heaver the buds get the bigger the stalks needs to be in order for the plant to hold the buds up to the light with out drooping over by weight... make sure you have occulting fans on HIGH..i use a fan in each corner of the grow room...so i have 4 of them..on high.. that represent the wind outside.....and if your plants are long and skinny is because you dont have enough wind to make a plant trunk bigger and stiffer..which in return permits you to grow bigger plants without having them fold over by the buds weights... :bong2:
Click to expand...

when Rh is too low the stomata wont open properly. You have roots in water but the plant thinks its in the Sahara desert drying up. Its trying to protect itself by conserving water,ie: stomata staying closed to prevent transperation. It gets all cornfused.

I think too much air in these conditions is defintely gonna worsen the situation. Keeping airflow to a safe level for the plants to not get stale may work better. It will save a few precious RH % points that you could need.



IMHO
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#313
Buddy Hemphill said:
when Rh is too low the stomata wont open properly. You have roots in water but the plant thinks its in the Sahara desert drying up. Its trying to protect itself by conserving water,ie: stomata staying closed to prevent transperation. It gets all cornfused.

I think too much air in these conditions is defintely gonna worsen the situation. Keeping airflow to a safe level for the plants to not get stale may work better. It will save a few precious RH % points that you could need.



IMHO
Click to expand...

THANKS Buddy yes that is also true...
 

desertsquirrel

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Dec 11, 2011
#314
Phaivor said:
I believe the air flow in the room should be maxed out day & night non stop, do not slow the air flow down the more air on the plants the stronger they get the bigger the stalks will become & then bigger the buds, heaver the buds get the bigger the stalks needs to be in order for the plant to hold the buds up to the light with out drooping over by weight... make sure you have occulting fans on HIGH..i use a fan in each corner of the grow room...so i have 4 of them..on high.. that represent the wind outside.....and if your plants are long and skinny is because you dont have enough wind to make a plant trunk bigger and stiffer..which in return permits you to grow bigger plants without having them fold over by the buds weights... :bong2:
Click to expand...

He said that he needed a humidifier, air flow will act to dehumidify.

Also these pics are with no "wind," i disagree with the above statements completely.
 

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desertsquirrel

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Dec 11, 2011
#315
Phaivor said:
yes colder the better i have my water at 60 going to 55 next round & the same with my room... colder the better, i am sorry for the pissing match ttystikk... :passingjoint:
Click to expand...

Below 60 is going to seriously adversely affect growth.
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#316
desertsquirrel said:
Below 60 is going to seriously adversely affect growth.
Click to expand...

yes exactly right i dont want growth as the UnderCurrent makes the plant grow to to fast already, we must make the plant how we want (no more than 2-3 feet tall bushed outward) i dont have tall ceilings but if you are looking for tall trees cold is not the way...
 

Phaivor

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Dec 11, 2011
#317
desertsquirrel said:
He said that he needed a humidifier, air flow will act to dehumidify.

Also these pics are with no "wind," i disagree with the above statements completely.
Click to expand...

that is nice :confused0054:
 

Onespark

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Dec 12, 2011
#318
Got the system to .5 EC. Well after all of that and a few days with the tea my roots are brown and dead. Looks like another UC loss for me.:sick0026:
 

Phaivor

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Dec 12, 2011
#319
does any one know the name of the marine tool that looks like a balloon that you can pump up inside of tube and stops water from flowing???
 

desertsquirrel

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Dec 12, 2011
#320
I wouldn't ever put any "tea" in our UCs.

But i am sorry to hear about the loss mate.
 
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Replies 528
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Started Jun 7, 2011
Latest post Jul 5, 2012
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Forum Under Current - RDWC Growers Alliance

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