Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

HydroRocks · Feb 1, 2012

We just started playing around with adding top drip to the UC system for seedling start ups in the UC. Will adding top drip slow down the roots reaching or searching for water?

Preliminary test seems to point in the direction of it takes roots a little longer to reach the water as they are getting plenty from the top drip? Was curious if anyone has experience with this?

Media used for testing was Growstones, which BTW out of all the media we tested Growstones seems the best (it also has trace amounts of silica)! It is super clean and easy to deal with and reusable. No more clay deposits!!

Cheers!

UCHQ · Feb 1, 2012

johnnyrex said:
Ok that great but I then guess that you saw that the pics of the plants look great what about the wrinkles on the leaves do I have to worry about it or it's nothing thanks

Just an expression of the natural morphology in the leaves...nothing to worry about as it's a good indicator your plants leaf tissue is well hydrated.

UCHQ · Feb 1, 2012

We just started playing around with adding top drip to the UC system for seedling start ups in the UC. Will adding top drip slow down the roots reaching or searching for water? HR

In our experience over the years we found that simply raising the water level provoked a more symetrical, well developed root mass than drip had. We had originally included drip as standard with UC's but found the drip plume encouraged development of fewer roots which then proliferated out once they came in contact with the solution. This resulted in very large root masses developing that had very few main roots that essentially became the week link in the root system in the event any of these roots were damaged.

Preliminary test seems to point in the direction of it takes roots a little longer to reach the water as they are getting plenty from the top drip? Was curious if anyone has experience with this? HR

Yes, basically water culture seems to trump top drip for early root development.

Media used for testing was Growstones, which BTW out of all the media we tested Growstones seems the best (it also has trace amounts of silica)! It is super clean and easy to deal with and reusable. No more clay deposits!! HR

Top CC rec as well...plus a sustainably produced USA product. Though it does necessitate being well rinsed during this time a dust mask should be used to avoid tiny glass shards from being inhaled. As far as performance in water culture, Growstones hands down.

johnnyrex · Feb 1, 2012

UCHQ said:
Just an expression of the natural morphology in the leaves...nothing to worry about as it's a good indicator your plants leaf tissue is well hydrated.

Ok thanks

phup · Feb 3, 2012

UCHQ, do you recommend having your top-up reservoir pre-mixed with a nutrient solution that is the same ppm as the one in the UC, or should you top off with plain water, wait for ppms to drop down over the course of a week and then bring them back up?

UCHQ · Feb 3, 2012

phup said:
UCHQ, do you recommend having your top-up reservoir pre-mixed with a nutrient solution that is the same ppm as the one in the UC, or should you top off with plain water, wait for ppms to drop down over the course of a week and then bring them back up?

Either way can work...just choose the method that better suits your schedules and habits and be consistent. It's a good idea to do pure water top off if you run your nutes a bit strong, conversely keep nutes in your top off if you tend to run a more mild strength.

hogan400 · Feb 3, 2012

UCHQ,

Have you guys thrown a post or thread up about the new C.S nutes and ucroots you are droppin? The full line and info sheet or how high to start ec/ppms? I was getting ready to run what you sent but Im 2 weeks out from pulling and would really like to do my whole next run with it. I figure these were pre-label and consumer info.
Should I add cal mag?
Recommend r.o or tap?
Mix bloom then boost or boost then bloom?
Uc roots first or last?

My next rd is already in veg. I may need to scoop a little more to finish the whole cycle, when is the release date?

Thanks guys, the product looks great and I cant wait to get this 2nd rd in!

johnnyrex · Feb 4, 2012

Hello UCHQ my question is now I have put on all 3 light at 1000 watt setting I turned on my a/c but my R/H is now dropping down to 35% and they were 75-70% what can I do I already put wet towels in the the tent and buckets of water don't know what else I can do.

Also I starting to notice on 2 of my 4 buckets a little of brown thingy don't know if it's slim or not also the plants started to droop again man i tell you I'm starting to get worried this is the second time. I tried to rub the roots to see if it's slim but I can't tell maybe to soon cause when I rub the roots no slim is on my fingers does anyone know what this is

The first time it was white slim dropped my ppm down to 200 the plants were small just transplanted the plants took 2 f ing weeks to start growing.
2 weeks and 10 days later the plants are double the size with roots coming out the bottom of the net pots. I did what you said I gave them a RE root dunk and applied 1/4 strength I also rised the ppm to 440 ppm don't know if it's the nutes or the R/H is causing them to start drooping again. Today I just left 1 light on at 500 and rised it up Please help thanks

phup · Feb 6, 2012

I have a progressive deficiency/toxicity that I cannot seem to figure out. If anybody has some insight please help.

Nutrients are H&G with 0.5g/gallon of epsom.
Tap water with 25-30 ppm of Ca, and a total ppm of only 50

We have 3 systems running. We let the ph drift between 5.3-6.2 and are running the ppm at 400, 450 and 540 respectively (0.7 conversion). The system with the highest ppm definitely has the best looking plans, but they still show signs of this deficiency/toxicity. Overnight drop is usually 10-20ppm in EACH system.

I want to bump the ppm to about 600 to deal with these deficiencies, but in the past I've found the at with the UC less is more.

Photos:

1.The deficiency/toxicity progression can be seen in the photos 1-3. The plants also exhibit very purple stems.
2. Full size plant, one of the healthier ones.
3. I've also attached a leaf tissue analysis.

Our environment is 76-78F Daytime, 65-68 night time.
RH 50-60
Water temp is 64-68

The only strange variable is that we were humidifying the room with a large fan which caused CaCo3 to precipitate out into the air. Since our blowers are located inside the room a lot of Calcium Carbonate was being pushed into the solution as well as some that was settling on the leaves making them appear dull. We have since fixed that problem by locating blowers outside the room and removing the humidifier.

Here is the leaf tissue analysis that we received back from the lab a few days ago:

Nitrogen 4.56
Calcium 4.54
Phosphorus 0.86
Magnesium 1.10
Potassium 3.22
Sodium 0.02

Iron 176 ppm
Mangenese 360 ppm
Copper 12 ppm
Zinc 48 ppm
Boron 106 ppm
Molybdenum 7 ppm

Thanks for your help fellow farmers!

fnord88 · Feb 7, 2012

Hi everybody, just wondering how essential the top of res is? My system is 6 sites, each 20 gallon, plus 20 gallon epi. Other than making it easier, with less top ups required, does it have any benefit? If I use one, how do you set the EC? Same as system, or as plants use nutes, the EC will fluctuate anyway?

Thanks guys just wondering if i am missing something, as everything at the moment seems to be working nicely.

HydroRocks · Feb 7, 2012

It is much better to keep the water level constant in the plant modules which is where the top off tank comes into play. It is also much easier to integrate nutrients into the system seamlessly and more consistently as well as with better over all control.

Doing manual add backs is "ok" and will work however if care is taken.

For a more automated as well as "dialed in" system, a top off tank is the way to go.

fnord88 · Feb 7, 2012

thanks for the info mate. Much appreciated.

Descrete · Feb 9, 2012

Uc customer support is the best!

I recently made the investment into Under Current Systems. As with any new system there is a learning curve..... I just want to THANK Dan at Current Culture for calling me 15 Minutes after I sent in an email stating that I was having some issues with my room. Dan spent some time with me on the phone going over various matters that needed to be addressed on my end to tweak my setup. What company out there offers this kind of support? I am very impressed with there level of customer service and support. I would highly recommend anyone thinking of making the investment to DO IT. You have no need to worry ...the TEAM over at Current Culture will be there when you need them most!

Thanks Again,
Me

MonsterRobot · Feb 9, 2012

I am concerned that my plants are growing too fast in my UC! I was worried at first, but once those girls get their roots established they really blow up! (like double in size every 2 days or so)

Just wanted to say how impressed I am with the growth rate I am seeing right now! Keep it up and good luck to everyone here!

PButter · Feb 9, 2012

I know this will probably come off as a stupid question but... 'There are no stupid questions, only stupid people..'

I am trying to figure out how much water is in my system..
No, I can't seem to get a good idea of how much water is in my RO rez...

I have a 9 site with the 13 gal mods, three inch pipes... I've come to terms with this by telling myself I have 80 gals in there when its up to the bottom of the net pots. I am fine with being off a few gallons one way or another but just wanted to see if someone out there has a better idea.

Thanks a million,

PB

woodsmaneh · Feb 9, 2012

phup said:
I have a progressive deficiency/toxicity that I cannot seem to figure out. If anybody has some insight please help.

Nutrients are H&G with 0.5g/gallon of epsom.
Tap water with 25-30 ppm of Ca, and a total ppm of only 50

We have 3 systems running. We let the ph drift between 5.3-6.2 and are running the ppm at 400, 450 and 540 respectively (0.7 conversion). The system with the highest ppm definitely has the best looking plans, but they still show signs of this deficiency/toxicity. Overnight drop is usually 10-20ppm in EACH system.

I want to bump the ppm to about 600 to deal with these deficiencies, but in the past I've found the at with the UC less is more.

Photos:

1.The deficiency/toxicity progression can be seen in the photos 1-3. The plants also exhibit very purple stems.
2. Full size plant, one of the healthier ones.
3. I've also attached a leaf tissue analysis.

Our environment is 76-78F Daytime, 65-68 night time.
RH 50-60
Water temp is 64-68

The only strange variable is that we were humidifying the room with a large fan which caused CaCo3 to precipitate out into the air. Since our blowers are located inside the room a lot of Calcium Carbonate was being pushed into the solution as well as some that was settling on the leaves making them appear dull. We have since fixed that problem by locating blowers outside the room and removing the humidifier.

Here is the leaf tissue analysis that we received back from the lab a few days ago:

Nitrogen 4.56
Calcium 4.54
Phosphorus 0.86
Magnesium 1.10
Potassium 3.22
Sodium 0.02

Iron 176 ppm
Mangenese 360 ppm
Copper 12 ppm
Zinc 48 ppm
Boron 106 ppm
Molybdenum 7 ppm

Thanks for your help fellow farmers!

Have a look here for the nutrient uptake profiles, might help you out.
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

Just some thoughts

Could you have a bad bottle of nutrients?
The leaf looks like toxic and crunchy. Burn?

I would dump the nutrients and start with new, if you wait to long with the UC it's to late.

MonsterRobot · Feb 9, 2012

PButter said:
I know this will probably come off as a stupid question but... 'There are no stupid questions, only stupid people..'

I am trying to figure out how much water is in my system..
No, I can't seem to get a good idea of how much water is in my RO rez...

I have a 9 site with the 13 gal mods, three inch pipes... I've come to terms with this by telling myself I have 80 gals in there when its up to the bottom of the net pots. I am fine with being off a few gallons one way or another but just wanted to see if someone out there has a better idea.

Thanks a million,

PB

110 gallons if you have the evolution XXL 13 9 site...
http://cch2o.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40

PButter · Feb 9, 2012

Thanks monster,

I have seen that 110 gals before.. Just thought that was a 'full system' volume and I have no clue what full is...

Thanks man, I was starting to think that I was a bit under guessing it.

PB

johnnyrex · Feb 10, 2012

Hello everyone my plants are doing great after the recovery I know everyone told me to have the water level over the net pots to help the clones establish roots now it's been 2 weeks and my plants have grown significantly should I lower the water level? If so how low and how would that benifit them cheers

HydroRocks · Feb 10, 2012

johnnyrex- Normally you would drop the water level to about an inch below the net pots during the first week of flower to help encourage the onset of bud sites.

Cheers!

Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

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Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

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