What percentage H202 you using?

A pic might help if possible so we ca see the droop your talking about.

What was your issue originally again? Sometimes it just takes time for them to recover, maybe back off the lights a bit.

Also, crown feeding a root inoculate could be an option possibly?

Cheers!

PButter said:

After the last time I posted here, four or five days ago (thanks for the help guys), I emptied the rez cleaned the shit out of it and refilled with:

1ml/gal Zone
1ml/gal H2O2- about a day later
1ml/gal CalMag
1.5ml/gal H+G A+B

Ec is sitting just below .6
Rez temps are 64-66

The issue now is that I have extremely slow root growth. I DO have root growth but its on the order of grass growing. Anyone see something wrong? It feels kind of like a stall and would like to get things moving. Plants are not what I would call perky anymore. They aren't quite droopy either- but they stay the same from lights on to light off almost. Hmm.

PB

Click to expand...

Try more food until they say enough, .6 just seems light. and maybe a root stimulator like regen-a-root.

H &G at full strength has 40 actual available ppm of phosphorous. so at 1.5 mls it has 7.5 actual p.

that is far too low of a p profile for rooting, thats why i offer rooting profiles in my threads as well as shoot growth profiles.

good luck

DS

Thanks for chiming in guys. I think the lights are ok. Pictures are a PITA for me right now. Camera phone cord is shorted x2. Camera ate shit early this winter with first an incident with water then after the repair an incident with idiocy.

I'll look into re-gen-aroot.

I thought ec was a bit low/missing something. How about a 1ml/gal DynaBloom addition to the rez?

PB

PButter said:

After the last time I posted here, four or five days ago (thanks for the help guys), I emptied the rez cleaned the shit out of it and refilled with:

1ml/gal Zone
1ml/gal H2O2- about a day later
1ml/gal CalMag
1.5ml/gal H+G A+B

Ec is sitting just below .6
Rez temps are 64-66

The issue now is that I have extremely slow root growth. I DO have root growth but its on the order of grass growing. Anyone see something wrong? It feels kind of like a stall and would like to get things moving. Plants are not what I would call perky anymore. They aren't quite droopy either- but they stay the same from lights on to light off almost. Hmm.

PB

Click to expand...

Relativity of CM to Base A/B seems off. Consider bring up your base nute a bit to increase availability of primaries and micros.

How to Properly Clean Yur Chiller

I have a 1/10th hp Chiller using on a 6 site UCXL. I was wondering what everyone reccomends doing to clean the inside tubing of the chiller. I know there has to be some nasty stuff wanting to mess up my grow breeding in there. Any ideas?

I was thinking running that stuff through it that is used to clean bowls. like a blue cleaner with small particulates in it. Not sure if that would mess up my chiller and they are not cheap as you all know.

Happy Farming!

Id ask the manufacturer via email, or consult my manual. Also, its spelled discrete.
Ham

Descrete said:

I have a 1/10th hp Chiller using on a 6 site UCXL. I was wondering what everyone reccomends doing to clean the inside tubing of the chiller. I know there has to be some nasty stuff wanting to mess up my grow breeding in there. Any ideas?

I was thinking running that stuff through it that is used to clean bowls. like a blue cleaner with small particulates in it. Not sure if that would mess up my chiller and they are not cheap as you all know.

Happy Farming!

Click to expand...

I would fill a bucket with really hot water and just hook up your pump to the bucket and let that go through for a while... add a lot of h202 to kill anything in there and then use a hose to blast that shit out from both sides... always worked for me...

I use h202 @ 5ml per gallon and do a whole system flush with that and then use bio green clean (great shit if you havent used it you better go get you some) for a 2nd flush, if you let the bio green clean run in the system for a day or so it will usually break down most of the shit in the uc. Not only that but it removes films, build ups and whatever else like the shit is nothing. I also make a spray bottle (old windex bottle) with 2 capfulls of bio green clean and filled with water... That does a hell of a job cleaning the buckets between runs.

What about bleach? Strong stuff.

Descrete said:

I have a 1/10th hp Chiller using on a 6 site UCXL. I was wondering what everyone reccomends doing to clean the inside tubing of the chiller. I know there has to be some nasty stuff wanting to mess up my grow breeding in there. Any ideas?

I was thinking running that stuff through it that is used to clean bowls. like a blue cleaner with small particulates in it. Not sure if that would mess up my chiller and they are not cheap as you all know.

Happy Farming!

Click to expand...

I have found the best way to clean my system and chillers is with Citric Acid, it's safe to use and will desolve any type of build-up you have. It's great for cleaning drippers and lines, will desolve mineral build ups. A 6% soloution in a spray bottle will clean just about anything .

here is a recient artical published in Maximum Yield

Citric acid has many uses in hydroponics and greenhouse environments. In greenhouses and farming operations, citric acid can be used to acidify water or nutrient solutions—and remove calcium deposits, scale and other hard water buildup from tubing, pipes, drippers, tanks, cooling pads, nozzles, glass, equipment and other surfaces. If run through the irrigation or drip system citric acid not only clears and removes hard water, calcium and scale deposits, but over time it can reduce the pH of the soil as well.


Citric acid is responsible for the sour taste we experience when eating lemons, limes, grapefruits, oranges or other citrus fruits. As an ingredient, citric acid is used in many industries you would not expect. Citric acid is a good general cleaner, and is the active ingredient in many bathroom and kitchen cleaning solutions—a solution with a citric acid content of six per cent will remove hard water stains from glass without the need for scrubbing. In industry, citric acid is also used to dissolve rust from steel. Here is another example: tobacco is a leafy green plant with high levels of chlorophyll, which is alkaline or high pH. This alkalinity gives cigarette smoke a harsh flavor. Citric acid is added to tobacco during processing to reduce the alkalinity of the leaves. Citric acid is also added to cigarette paper to control the rate at which it burns, allowing the paper and tobacco to burn at the same rate.

Many people confuse citric acid with Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), but the two are different, if only slightly. Chemically, the only difference between ascorbic acid and citric acid is that citric acid has one additional oxygen atom. Vitamin C tastes very bitter, just like most vitamins, so citric acid is used as a flavoring in many preparations of Vitamin C to mask the bitter taste of ascorbic acid. At room temperature, citric acid is a white crystalline powder that resembles table salt and readily dissolves in water.





Acids have different strengths. The acids commonly used in hydroponics and greenhouses—nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid—are all considered to be strong acids, whereas citric acid, acetic acid (vinegar) and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) are considered to be weak acids. Citric acid may be weak, but the citric acid in a lemon is strong enough to power a clock. Those LED clocks plugged into a lemon at children's science fairs are powered principally by citric acid reacting with the metal in the wires to create a crude battery. Citric acid is also used in beverages and candies, and although it is considered to be a weak acid, it is known to be capable of dissolving away tooth enamel over time. In fact, it is said that the citric acid in lemon juice will even dissolve a pearl.

There have been several articles written about the basic principles of pH—how low pH is acidic and high pH is alkaline (or basic)—so I will not review that here. But if a solution (or the water for the solution) is high in pH, then the way to reduce that pH is to add an acid. Citric acid products for growers and greenhouse applications usually come as pH-reducing additives, with tables supplied to assist in approximating the amount of product needed to adjust the pH from a given level to the desired level. These tables are helpful, but it is generally better to use a pH meter to ensure accuracy.

Perhaps the central issue in mixing any nutrient solution is the pH or acidity of the water and finished mix. Citric acid is ideal as an acidifier for nutrient stock solutions and pesticide solutions because it is much less likely to react with fertilizer salts or pesticides than other acids. Use citric acid for acidifying water used to make concentrated fertilizer stocks and pesticide solutions, because high-pH water can hydrolyze or degrade pesticides that are added. By adjusting the pH beforehand, pesticide solutions last longer and their effectiveness is maintained.

Some acids used for water acidification also supply a plant nutrient in conjunction with the acid. For example, nitric acid supplies nitrogen and phosphoric acid supplies phosphorus. The nutrient supplied can be beneficial to plant growth if not supplied in excess, but it can also react with fertilizer salts in concentrated stock solutions or with pesticides if mixed into spray solutions. Growers who acidify their water should adjust their fertilization program to account for any nutrient supplied by the corresponding acid. For example, if using phosphoric acid, growers need to make sure to reduce the phosphorus fertilizer they add accordingly to account for the phosphorus supplied by the acid. These calculations may be too complicated for a beginner, so using citric acid can simplify the process.

With the growth of the organics market over the years, citric acid has become popular because it is principally made from natural sources and certified as suitable for use in organic food production. Industrial-scale citric acid production originally began in 1890, based on the Italian citrus fruit industry. However, microbial production of citric acid did not become important until World War I disrupted Italian citrus exports. Today, most citric acid is produced commercially on a large scale by feeding sugar to the bacteria Aspergillus niger.

Citric acid is a weak acid that is relatively safe compared to the strong acids like nitric acid, phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. Because citric acid reduces the pH of solutions it is also a good disinfectant, and it is sometimes used as a cut-flower preservative in vases to reduce the pH of the water to 3.5 to prevent the growth of micro-organisms.
Citric acid is relatively safe to use, inexpensive, versatile in its uses, natural, widely available and certified for use in organic food production. With all of these benefits shouldn't you consider using citric acid in your greenhouse, indoor garden or protected cropping system?

Why all the rot?
Just kidding. ;)

dankworth said:

Why all the rot?
Just kidding. ;)

Click to expand...

That's kinda like asking why Nascar has so many car crashes.

Now take Nascar and put a variety of fairly inexperienced drivers in the mix, better get get your Geiko :)

dankworth said:

Why all the rot?
Just kidding. ;)

Click to expand...

Why all the months of vegging?
Just kidding. ;)

RollinEndough said:

Why all the months of vegging?
Just kidding. ;)

Click to expand...

I believe I have figured out a nutrient delivery system that successfully addresses both veg time and rot issues.

DWC performance with topdrip dtw reliability.
So exciting!

UCMENOW said:

That's kinda like asking why Nascar has so many car crashes.

Now take Nascar and put a variety of fairly inexperienced drivers in the mix, better get get your Geiko :)

Click to expand...

I thought it was because rdwc had an inherently greater risk of rot, necessitating the applications of h202, zone, bleach, physan20, etc.

dankworth said:

I thought it was because rdwc had an inherently greater risk of rot, necessitating the applications of h202, zone, bleach, physan20, etc.

Click to expand...

RDWC has a greater risk of root damage by growers and subsequent colonization by root pathogens, necessitating the thoughtful management of nutrients, climate, maintenance and other details which can make RDWC bad news for those not predisposed to wanting to dial in the details.

As for using sterilents, IMO they should be used as tools (such as in IPM) more so than crutches. If you need all of the above to succeed than something is likely out of balance in your water chemistry or environment. At that point the problem should either be addressed and corrected or a new more simple approach (such as aggregate based methods) should be considered.

How I react whenever this discussion comes up.

UCMENOW said:

RDWC has a greater risk of root damage by growers and subsequent colonization by root pathogens, necessitating the thoughtful management of nutrients, climate, maintenance and other details which can make RDWC bad news for those not predisposed to wanting to dial in the details.

As for using sterilents, IMO they should be used as tools (such as in IPM) more so than crutches. If you need all of the above to succeed than something is likely out of balance in your water chemistry or environment. At that point the problem should either be addressed and corrected or a new more simple approach (such as aggregate based methods) should be considered.

Click to expand...

I never did get past all the root rot/pathogen issues, no matter what I did- and I did plenty. Sometimes, the situation demends that you just gotta try something different, so I'm running coco/hydroton chow mix. Top feed irrigation, dtw. We'll see how it goes...

What is the proper way to using a rockwool cube (4 Inch) in the 8 inch net pots? Should the rock wool cube be low enough in the net pot so they stay wet all the time and wick up water? Using growstones and normally do not use rock wool at all. Wanted to use up the ones I had left. I know that the rock wool cant stay saturated but is it ok to be low enough in the net pot to wick a little water to where they stay wet all the time?

Thanks!