SunGrown
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- Mar 24, 2013
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I like to cover my beds so the feeder roots won't dry out and die. You can make a cover from burlap or shade cloth and both work extremely well from my experience
I like to cover my beds so the feeder roots won't dry out and die. You can make a cover from burlap or shade cloth and both work extremely well from my experienceView attachment 430186
Is this good or bad??? I can't transplant and there's no more room to top dress ....
Woot CO growers! ;)there seems to be a ton of soil recipes on a ton of threads.
Anyone recommend a good simple base organic soil for first time organic grower?
From readings I can see the base would start
1/3 peat moss
1/3 EWC
1/3 rice hulls.. being in Colorado I can find it cheap and local
Dolomite lime to stabilize Ph.. 1 cup per cubic foot
Here is were my confusion has begun.
Do I start with a organic dry fert like Dr Earths All purpose 5-5-5 for a good base then add kelp, alfalfa and rock dust
or
Do I try and source everything without the ALL purpose base? if I do, what amendments would be recommended?
Very interested in creating a great base soil before I move on to a " super soil", something that will sustain growth/life while I figure out how to also create a good tea regiment.
Thanks for the help or feedback
Woot CO growers! ;)
Couple things, EWC/compost is the life of your soil - don't skimp. Keep in mind rice hulls are going to break down pretty quickly. If you could source a little pumice or lava rock to go in there, might be a good thing. For amendments I would suggest the following per cu ft:
1/2c kelp
1/2c neem
1/2c crab meal
1/2c oyster shell
1/2c gypsum
3-4c rock dust (glacial rock dust or basalt works well)
Done...
P-
Forgot to ask....is there a cook time to this recipe or does that only apply when using things with blood or guano?Woot CO growers! ;)
Couple things, EWC/compost is the life of your soil - don't skimp. Keep in mind rice hulls are going to break down pretty quickly. If you could source a little pumice or lava rock to go in there, might be a good thing. For amendments I would suggest the following per cu ft:
1/2c kelp
1/2c neem
1/2c crab meal
1/2c oyster shell
1/2c gypsum
3-4c rock dust (glacial rock dust or basalt works well)
Done...
P-
I usually try and let it sit for a week or two, but I've been told that isn't necessary. I just mixed up a cu yrd of this mix with a friend a couple of days ago, and we planted directly into it. No problems so far. Just to stress this, the EWC/compost are the most important part of the mix. Fresh is better. Search out the best you can. Peat moss (Canadian sphagnum) can be bought at lowes or home depot for about $12 for a 3 cu ft' bale.Forgot to ask....is there a cook time to this recipe or does that only apply when using things with blood or guano?
I am going to Rocky Mountain Worm Company here in the Springs. Ive heard great things about there EWC, so im hoping to be getting some of the best around.I usually try and let it sit for a week or two, but I've been told that isn't necessary. I just mixed up a cu yrd of this mix with a friend a couple of days ago, and we planted directly into it. No problems so far. Just to stress this, the EWC/compost are the most important part of the mix. Fresh is better. Search out the best you can. Peat moss (Canadian sphagnum) can be bought at lowes or home depot for about $12 for a 3 cu ft' bale.
Peace!
P-
A large percentage of the humus material I mixed up on Sat was EWC from rmwc. I like to add 15% EWC and 15% compost to my mix. In addition to being a little easier on the wallet, I like the diversity of the compost.I am going to Rocky Mountain Worm Company here in the Springs. Ive heard great things about there EWC, so im hoping to be getting some of the best around.
Do you use a tea or anything to help with microbe life?
just use itI've had this same outdoor set-up and I screen my castings every so often. I was going to use some inside but am worried about pest.anyone have tips on sterilizing the castings or would that kill all the microbes?View attachment 440351 View attachment 440352 View attachment 440353
Patanjali's made a good list to start, however, I am a real fan of Dr Earth as they make it VERY easy. That said, I also like to DIY and have stuff on hand to make additional tweaks if I feel it's necessary (which is to emphasize that I grow much by feel).there seems to be a ton of soil recipes on a ton of threads.
Anyone recommend a good simple base organic soil for first time organic grower?
From readings I can see the base would start
1/3 peat moss
1/3 EWC
1/3 rice hulls.. being in Colorado I can find it cheap and local
Dolomite lime to stabilize Ph.. 1 cup per cubic foot
Here is were my confusion has begun.
Do I start with a organic dry fert like Dr Earths All purpose 5-5-5 for a good base then add kelp, alfalfa and rock dust
or
Do I try and source everything without the ALL purpose base? if I do, what amendments would be recommended?
Very interested in creating a great base soil before I move on to a " super soil", something that will sustain growth/life while I figure out how to also create a good tea regiment.
Thanks for the help or feedback
Would you be including the oyster shell with the dolomite, or instead of?Woot CO growers! ;)
Couple things, EWC/compost is the life of your soil - don't skimp. Keep in mind rice hulls are going to break down pretty quickly. If you could source a little pumice or lava rock to go in there, might be a good thing. For amendments I would suggest the following per cu ft:
1/2c kelp
1/2c neem
1/2c crab meal
1/2c oyster shell
1/2c gypsum
3-4c rock dust (glacial rock dust or basalt works well)
Done...
P-
I would be adding the oyster shell instead of dolomite. I don't use lime in my mixes, just my preference.Patanjali's made a good list to start, however, I am a real fan of Dr Earth as they make it VERY easy. That said, I also like to DIY and have stuff on hand to make additional tweaks if I feel it's necessary (which is to emphasize that I grow much by feel).
Would you be including the oyster shell with the dolomite, or instead of?
I also like to add at least a cup of alfalfa (pellets or hay sweepings) to that mix, per foot/cu.
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