*****problems With Low Yield!!!!!******

[Heisenberg 1]

hi all, so just a quick summary of my setup.... 4x4 Grow Tent.... 600w Phantom Running a Hortilux Super HPS..... both coco coir and DWC (problems with DWC so moving to coco coir) active air 6 in inline fan,.... can filter 33.... nine plants staggered by 3 weeks making 3 sets of 3 in different stages of bloom... had problems with temp getting up around 84 F consistently until can filter 33 was installed.... also brought humidity up to 45-50 from down around 30. Running GH Floralicious 3-part line with also Diamond Nectar, Rapid Start, Floralicios Plus, Flora Nectar, Calimagic, Si armor, Flora Blend and Kool Bloom liquid (Kool Bloom Dry mix for ripen week). 3 gallon pots..... Just Rite Grow Mix.....Tap Water.... pH pen..pH nutes at 6.3 when i change and feed drain to waste style to coco coir..

Id appreciate any help and any inquiries about anything else i do... as to what the cause for LOW YIELDS ARE!!!!

 

[KarmaKingz]

What strains are you running? What's lights off and on temps? What's your ppms? At feed and at drain to waste? Could be a bunch of variables but gonna have to diagnose it closely before you jump out the window. Cheers

 

[sixstring]

Well what do you consider low yield?imo you should use less products and just work on dialing the 3 part.ph down to 5.8 to 6.0 for pure coco and continue to dial in that environment. Do you use co2? If not work towards the mid 70s lights on.i wonder about your tap water numbers and also how often you water/feed . I'm sure you know coco likes to be moist at all times for best results.peace

 

[ShroomKing]

I would worry about yield after you decide and stick to a single growing system. Best of luck.

 

[jumpincactus]

In addition to what @ShroomKing mentioned you have to keep in mind, yield as compared to what???? Not all strains are super producers in yield. What strains are you playing with? First thing that jumps out at me is the variable nutrient arsenal you are sporting could be a lot of things.

Learn to understand the process of the system you are using and depending on your system , knowledge level, strains involved, techniques used ie: SOG, SCROG, vert grows etc etc the yield will come with practice.

Did you start out in dirt? or did you just hop on to hydro with no background or starting experience in dirt?? Most farmers I know started with dirt grows learned how to care for the plants and then moved on to more advanced grow techniques, or they stayed with dirt. All the fancy hydro gear in the world wont help you achieve yields unless you understand how to use them. Not being a D*** just trying to gain a sense of where your skill level is at.

How did installing a Can filter help with temps,? was this an added setup of added ventilation? Sounded to me like you just put a filter on the existing ventilation system and that threw me off.

Your temps will have happier girls around 75 degrees, what are your rez temps running?. Looks you have your Rh ok 30 % was a tad low for sure.

 

[WiseGorilla]

Hey man, pics would probably make it easier but if the whole tent is 4x4 you need to literally fill the entire space with colas to get a good yield. That means that staggered plants is not the best strategy. I forgot where but someone did the math on perpetual vs whole room grow and the perpetual is significantly less efficient. I would suggest just using a base, calmg and OG BIOwar tea as opposed to all that stuff, that seems like way too many nutrients. Coco is known for good yields and fast growth, but it really comes down to genetics and environment. Make sure you have good VPD numbers (theres a chart if you google it). PH coco 5.8-6.0. 6.3 is a bit high for hydro. I would also highly recommend getting a ppm meter to see what your tap water has inside it. I know that in downtown LA where I had a spot the tap water even after a sediment filter was at like 400ppm and definitely had a huge effect on the plants. Had to put in an RO filter for that place.

 

[rascali]

An advanced concern with perpetual grows is plant pheromone interactions that can lead to quick induction with weak under-pinnings and laggardly disseminated finish. You can surf the wave by staging early and late finishers in sequence but that requires a very sensitive thumb.

 

[Heisenberg 1]

Ok lol.... first off.. thank you for the wealth of knowledge in the replies... to answer some questions.... im running Afghan Kush, Dumpster, Purple Larry's OG Kush and Platinum Bubba Kush ( try to run the staggered sets i talked about; so 3 plants of this strain and 3 of that strain and so on). Some of the suggestions you all have made have been right on... i am moving to coco coir mix medium and getting back to the basics of learning a cannabis plants needs better.

 

[Heisenberg 1]

I began by jumping right into DWC with a 4x4... ive tinkered with some throughout my adolescent years in soil and outdoors, but never took it to the scientific level... I went off and got a degree in Geology and had my eyes opened to the wonders of "attention to detail" so now im realizing the DWC gear i got during my college years wasnt exactly the place to start... To the other questions i see... im also moving to running the whole room in one bloom at a time now.. ive wondered if that would better so thanks there... i do have a Total Dissolved Solids meter... and i run things following the General Hydroponics Feeding Chart at 75% strength(1100 to 1300ppms)..... Filter - i added the carbon filter to the 6 inchactive air exhaust fan and line that runs through the hood.... for some reason when i attached the filter the humidityrose and the temp fell a little... i have one of those fungis bags that releases CO2 continuously. Resevoir temps sit around 69-70F. I know this is too high, and i need a chiller.. the combination of this and the crazy amount of shit ive been putting in my nutes with the whole GH line is causing sliming and root rot every single time in every single DWC bucket i try to run.... they're not RDWC by the way, just a net pot on a 5 gallon bucket with an air stone in the bottom(which ive recently changed to just a hose putting in air... air stones went bad) Net pots have clay pebbles and a large rockwool block holds the plant.....

 

[Heisenberg 1]

probly gonna cut out everything but the 3 part grow micro and bloom for now... I am a beginning grower for sure... I do have experience but not the hours of 1 on 1 a good farmer has... A GOOD QUOTE - It takes 10,000 hours of experience to be a professional at something! I have moved to peat plugs and coco coir.. finishing up the DWC thats running now... I love the growth of the plants in DWC!!! they do great for a while... until that damn root rot and slime comes... so ill be back to DWC when i get better at it and have more equipment I also wanted to add that i previously did alot of FIMMING... and now i MAINLINE and LOW STRESS TRAIN in the coco coir

 

[jumpincactus]

@Heisenberg 1 Sounds like you are on the right track!!!.

DWC or RDWC can provide some monster yields but it also one of the more difficult systems to get "dialed" if you don't have any experience or someone to mentor you thru it. I assure you of this, you will not find a better forum and a body of knowledge than here at the Farm. You will find some of the best farmers in the world here. The experience and knowledge levels are extraordinary. With that said, Welcome!!!! and I hope you enjoy your journey. I was a dirt bagger for years and then switched to hydro, so if you ever need any help please feel free to post it publicly or you can PM me any time. I will do what I can to help you out. Peace

 

[WiseGorilla]

Sounds man. Also make sure you mix the 3part in the correct order. Micro has to go first. There are YouTube videos to explain if you want.

 

[MGRox]

.......I forgot where but someone did the math on perpetual vs whole room grow and the perpetual is significantly less efficient. .......

Sorry to butt in here and I hope I'm not side-tracking, but do you have any tips as to how I might be able to find this info? Is it on this site somewhere? I've only ever done perpetual, so I'm very curious about this point, though I do rotate them weekly and do "inter-mix" ages of flowering I guess.

 

[WiseGorilla]

I tried looking around and couldn't find it sorry. It may have been the other site but basically the guy showed two rooms, one perpetual and one monocrop. And then broke it up into weeks on his chart. For example in 3 months his monocrop room was fully done and replanted whereas his perpetual room only the first plants he put in were ready at the same time. Then every week after a new row was ready but the monocrop room was ready twice before the full perpetual room was done. Hope that makes some sense.

 

[sixstring]

I tried looking around and couldn't find it sorry. It may have been the other site but basically the guy showed two rooms, one perpetual and one monocrop. And then broke it up into weeks on his chart. For example in 3 months his monocrop room was fully done and replanted whereas his perpetual room only the first plants he put in were ready at the same time. Then every week after a new row was ready but the monocrop room was ready twice before the full perpetual room was done. Hope that makes some sense.

It does make sense...but once that 3 month period is up and everything is running smooth in the perpetual room it should produce similar numbers in the weeks and months to follow.
I been running perpetual for over 5 years without
Interruption and it seems to do good.
If I look at any 8 week period I range from .75 grams per watt to about 1.25gpw and thats with mixed strains in my room so I always considered that pretty decent.

 

[sonoragold]

Ok lol.... first off.. thank you for the wealth of knowledge in the replies... to answer some questions.... im running Afghan Kush, Dumpster, Purple Larry's OG Kush and Platinum Bubba Kush ( try to run the staggered sets i talked about; so 3 plants of this strain and 3 of that strain and so on). Some of the suggestions you all have made have been right on... i am moving to coco coir mix medium and getting back to the basics of learning a cannabis plants needs better.

I run the whole GH line myself,,I can tell you that do not follow their expertise feeding schedule...as others have said,,the first 2 weeks use only your base nutes,,micro first,,,then when plants r established start using the other products,,,if using their silica,,,add it first,,,then the cal mag then add your micro and grow n bloom then whatever else...your reservoir temps r fine...start your pH at around 5.7 and let it drift up to 6.3 or so.. Peace and good luck

 

[xX Kid Twist Xx]

running differnt strains will have an eefect on your yeild as well. they dont all feed the same or handle temps the same. try and find the strains that work well in your room/set up and stick with those running all of the same each time. its like playing to your strengths. if a strain works well in your set up and your grow style run with that until the wheels fall off.

 

[Mainely High]

I began by jumping right into DWC with a 4x4... ive tinkered with some throughout my adolescent years in soil and outdoors, but never took it to the scientific level... I went off and got a degree in Geology and had my eyes opened to the wonders of "attention to detail" so now im realizing the DWC gear i got during my college years wasnt exactly the place to start... To the other questions i see... im also moving to running the whole room in one bloom at a time now.. ive wondered if that would better so thanks there... i do have a Total Dissolved Solids meter... and i run things following the General Hydroponics Feeding Chart at 75% strength(1100 to 1300ppms)..... Filter - i added the carbon filter to the 6 inchactive air exhaust fan and line that runs through the hood.... for some reason when i attached the filter the humidityrose and the temp fell a little... i have one of those fungis bags that releases CO2 continuously. Resevoir temps sit around 69-70F. I know this is too high, and i need a chiller.. the combination of this and the crazy amount of shit ive been putting in my nutes with the whole GH line is causing sliming and root rot every single time in every single DWC bucket i try to run.... they're not RDWC by the way, just a net pot on a 5 gallon bucket with an air stone in the bottom(which ive recently changed to just a hose putting in air... air stones went bad) Net pots have clay pebbles and a large rockwool block holds the plant.....

To maximize aeration at very little cost, aerate with a Venturi style system. Very simple to make and install, looking up online should give you an idea of how it is designed and you can conceive from there. A static mixer inline with your "hose" will provide the necessary dissolved oxygen too, at a higher price though and failure rate. Make sure you install post filtration too. Consider a 1000W too. You have the vent for it by the sound of things. Heavy nutrients but less variety. Gen organics recommendations are light on their rates, but in combination with some guano works great. Also, read the bottle for all your stuff, if it doesn't say you can eat the plants after applying, consider the fact that you may smoke and eat it once it comes off.... then seek an alternative.
By the way, your slime and rot are caused by a lack of D.O. in your aeration/water. TDS and TSS aren't your concern, NPK is, and possibly you're over feeding on the nutrients is worth considering. Best Regards

 

[Mainely High]

To maximize aeration at very little cost, aerate with a Venturi style system. Very simple to make and install, looking up online should give you an idea of how it is designed and you can conceive from there. A static mixer inline with your "hose" will provide the necessary dissolved oxygen too, at a higher price though and failure rate. Make sure you install post filtration too. Consider a 1000W too. You have the vent for it by the sound of things. Heavy nutrients but less variety. Gen organics recommendations are light on their rates, but in combination with some guano works great. Also, read the bottle for all your stuff, if it doesn't say you can eat the plants after applying, consider the fact that you may smoke and eat it once it comes off.... then seek an alternative.
By the way, your slime and rot are caused by a lack of D.O. in your aeration/water. TDS and TSS aren't your concern, NPK is, and possibly you're over feeding on the nutrients is worth considering. Best Regards

Relative to your slime problem too; filimentous bacteria will take on a colony trait. It'll form after water has been in circulation for too long. Also, as mentioned, with an over feed. The filimentous form from a lack of air for the most part, but phos plays a key role. It is important to smell check your water. Any smell,evenly mildly unpleasant,indicates a need for a fresh turnover. Slime color is important too. Hydrogen peroxide is a natural form for supplemental d.o. too, store's have it at 3 percent, but grow suppliers have this stuff at 30-some percent. It's a great way to supplement with oxygen. Bad for tender starter roots though, can burn them. Can use in any fert mix though, soil too. Don't put in soil fert mix until an hour before applying if you pre mix, can over-oxygenate your feed and the microorganisms present in them. A home chiller can be made by using anything that'll transfer heat/ cooling. A copper coil in a reservoir hooked up to a water tap and drain will cool more than you need. Ever question your problem with water, put some in a mason jar, seal cover, let sit in window sill for three days,smell. Smell ok? One sample before entering system, one after. Neither smell bad with the right d.o. and ferts.

 

[Heisenberg 1]

for the G.H. Line.... do you mean only micro, grow and bloom for week 1 and week 2 as in according to the chart.... or do you mean the first 2 weeks of bloom? because week 1 and 2 on the chart are veg weeks... just wanted to be sure.. thanks all for the tips on rotating water quicker and venturi system for better dissolved Oxygen... working on that system now... thanks again!