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Protecting Indoor grow from Fungal Diseases & Pests

DURBANPOISON.AAA 17 Replies 1,515 Views
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DURBANPOISON.AAA

DURBANPOISON.AAA

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So, my first grow did not go well considering I got Bud rot in the last 2 weeks before harvest & had to thrash all of it. I have finally got down to getting my second run going.
I am growing in the same room & same grow tent which I have sanitized with Hydrogen Peroxide and Isopropyl Alcohol. I definitely will be paying more attention to keeping a controlled environment when it comes to temperature & humidity as well as proper airflow. I still have concerns though and really want to prevent any diseases or pests that could potentially ruin my harvest.

Should I just be doing preventative sprays from week 1 veg with products such us Neudosan, Pyrol & maybe Biogrow Copper Soap just before it is time to flip to flower?


Lol just trying to make sure I don't waste another 5 months....
 
Durban,

H2O2 and alcohol are not sporadical. Use a 5% solution of bleach, hypochlorite. Wipe everything with the bleach solution then remove the residue with peroxide or alcohol. Make sure when you apply the bleach to thoroughly wet all surfaces even under tent openings and the flaps.

Zill.
 
I'm not saying that it's a bad thing to keep things clean, but you won't get rid of spores unless you are running something like a sealed off laboratory. Spores are everywhere and the only way to keep them from developing into fungus is to make sure that the environment doesn't allow them to activate and develop into fungus. But I feel you man! I just had bud rot in a couple of my buds. It sucks when it happens! ☹️
 
After reading over 400 journals and diaries the number one for pm and most forms of rot in buds is good airflow. If the rot was localized or limited to buds leaning on tent walls or clumped together this is an easy fix.
If it was more pervasive touching most of the grow then it will be more difficult.
Almost all tents will peak humidity during lights out. Ensure increased airflow during this time.
If you run any of the well known apps consider setting up humidity as an event to send you a notification on your phone when it goes out of specs. For a while I was using the " enterprise red alert " but that got old.
 
Durban,

H2O2 and alcohol are not sporadical. Use a 5% solution of bleach, hypochlorite. Wipe everything with the bleach solution then remove the residue with peroxide or alcohol. Make sure when you apply the bleach to thoroughly wet all surfaces even under tent openings and the flaps.

Zill.
Dude we can not use that truth hammer enough. Lots of folks think h202 is a wonder. Like ACV and other things they have limited use and are not very broad based.
 
Just remember that but rot needs actual water to form and not just moist air. Humidity alone will not do it unless you hit the dewpoint. Leaf guttation is a major culprit and often overlooked. In addition to paying extra close attention to the rh and air circulation we must also look to the root zone and our watering practices during late flower. 💚
 
Just remember that but rot needs actual water to form and not just moist air. Humidity alone will not do it unless you hit the dewpoint. Leaf guttation is a major culprit and often overlooked. In addition to paying extra close attention to the rh and air circulation we must also look to the root zone and our watering practices during late flower. 💚
Thats interesting, I never thought of it that way!

About the watering routine. Are you suggesting that it is favorable to increase the amount of water while decreasing the frequency? Or maybe it's better to maintain the water volume while decreasing frequency thus letting the plants dry out more? Or what would you suggest? I'm curious about this. 🤠
 
Durban,

H2O2 and alcohol are not sporadical. Use a 5% solution of bleach, hypochlorite. Wipe everything with the bleach solution then remove the residue with peroxide or alcohol. Make sure when you apply the bleach to thoroughly wet all surfaces even under tent openings and the flaps.

Zill.
Thank you Zill, I'm saving this 'when' I move to growing indoors. (had a hella couple years outside)
 
We don't realise but we're basically wading through a soup of fungal spores and pathogens -

'On average, there are between 1,000 and 10,000 fungal spores in every cubic meter of air. "A person breathes in between 10,000 and 20,000 liters of air every day, and every breath contains between 1 and 10 spores'

But -

'By the toll of a billion deaths, man had earned his immunity, his right to survive among this planet's infinite organisms'

Sterilising will reduce the previous load but after that environmental control and due diligence of the grow are your best friends as you can never truly defeat these guys unless running full sterile which is hard to impossible.
 
Thats interesting, I never thought of it that way!

About the watering routine. Are you suggesting that it is favorable to increase the amount of water while decreasing the frequency? Or maybe it's better to maintain the water volume while decreasing frequency thus letting the plants dry out more? Or what would you suggest? I'm curious about this. 🤠
For me it depends on the medium. I use a 70/30 coco perlite mix and I auto water. In flower I feed my plants different amounts 3x per day. The first feeding at lights on is the heaviest and the next 2 get progressively lighter spread 3 hours apart. Last watering is always 6 hrs before lights off.

By the time the lights turn on 18 hrs later, the medium has had enough time to get the water level to a place where it's not putting pressure on the roots. Matching the pot to the size of the root ball also has a big influence on this, so go as small as you can get away with.

In soil? Idk I'm terrible at soil but I would say always always water at lights on and especially in late flower it's much better to under water.
 
By the time the lights turn on 18 hrs later, the medium has had enough time to get the water level to a place where it's not putting pressure on the roots. Matching the pot to the size of the root ball also has a big influence on this, so go as small as you can get away with.
Wait, so you want them root bound?
 
Wait, so you want them root bound?
Yes and no lol. There's no "root bound" in fabric pots. They air prune on the sides as opposed to circling the drain and it doesn't even limit the size of the canopy.

My goal is always having 100% of my substrate packed with roots. It makes watering much more efficient. With high frequency fertigation I can grow the same size plant in a 1 gallon or 5 gallon depending on how I water it.

Big pots throw too much humidity in the tent for my liking. Right now I've been using 3 gal but I plan on going back to 2's. With small pots you can let them have a much dryer night cycle and there's just physically much less water to evaporate.
 
Should I just be doing preventative sprays from week 1 veg with products such us Neudosan, Pyrol & maybe Biogrow Copper Soap just before it is time to flip to flower?
I don't do anything like that, and I've had few problems with diseases. I just treat problems as they arise.

For defense, I try to keep the plants healthy. Some nutrients, such as silicon, can enhance plant defenses. Keeping the RH below 60% is important, so I have a dehumidifier in my grow room and the tents are well vented. I also recently added a DIY MERV 11 air filter capable of removing pollen and mold spores from the air. We were having sinus problems during flowering and this filter solved that problem.
 
Spores are ubiquitous all the time. Bleach will never 100% decontaminate a spore load. But, You can manage it with routine good housekeeping.
 
mold occuring may vary a lot, depending strain, also even different phenotypes within a strain and ambiant rh and airflow.

you might just have been unlucky with the pheno(s) with your first grow, you'll never know until you grow the same strain in large amount from seeds. I have seen some pheno without mold with up to 90%rh and some others starting to rot with as low as 50%rh.

i personnaly wouldn't use any spray to prevent mold. Not sure how safe they will be when burned.
 
For me it depends on the medium. I use a 70/30 coco perlite mix and I auto water. In flower I feed my plants different amounts 3x per day. The first feeding at lights on is the heaviest and the next 2 get progressively lighter spread 3 hours apart. Last watering is always 6 hrs before lights off.

By the time the lights turn on 18 hrs later, the medium has had enough time to get the water level to a place where it's not putting pressure on the roots. Matching the pot to the size of the root ball also has a big influence on this, so go as small as you can get away with.

In soil? Idk I'm terrible at soil but I would say always always water at lights on and especially in late flower it's much better to under water.
I'm in soil so don't know anything about the coco/perlite thing. 😂 Appreciate the comment though.
 
I'm gonna say a dirty word .... VPD. Keep it at a constant .. 130-150 abouts when in flower.
 
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