Purple stems, lime green/yellowish crunchy leafs, brown clawed tips.

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MArs78

MArs78

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Flush with enzymes like hygrozyme. Gonna need a big flush

Then you need to be watering a lot more often. Ill get into more detail when i get home
Here’s a image of the very first leaf that I noticed discolored. Now it’s all over, lime
Green around the litter leaf.
 
35B64308 A0EE 425D B3D9 40E1F22AC956
Moshmen

Moshmen

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Aqua will be back , I’m just testin wool , so no expert but the dry back you have been getting is prolly what’s cause if the buildup ? More fertigations allow you to rinse away any build up and keep ec consistent to the solution you put in.

Flushing again no expert here I personally would use filtered drinking water or RO something with less than 20 ppm prolly about idk at least half gallon maybe more , I would rinse till ec is down considerably and then finish with a lite feed
 
Buzzzz

Buzzzz

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So don’t you have to have a very high EC in order to get lockout? Also can you please share some details about flushing?
You can get lockout from improper PH,the plant is using what it has stored and is waiting for what it needs to become available which isn't. Ph is more important than ec,you can always thin the mixture but if PH is way off nothing will help. Rockwool comes more basic as it's spun rock.
 
Buzzzz

Buzzzz

442
93
Aqua will be back , I’m just testin wool , so no expert but the dry back you have been getting is prolly what’s cause if the buildup ? More fertigations allow you to rinse away any build up and keep ec consistent to the solution you put in.

Flushing again no expert here I personally would use filtered drinking water or RO something with less than 20 ppm prolly about idk at least half gallon maybe more , I would rinse till ec is down considerably and then finish with a lite feed
Yes, run it low after leech,if the plant isn't using the salts they will accumulate ,you can see it easier on rock grows
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I have never run RW but seen many do it well and many do it poorly. In the end its a concept that can happen in any media. Ill explain but its going to be long.

So a few things at play.

Salinity is the amount of dissolved salts (our fertilizers are in salt form this is different than sodium) in a liquid. Water naturally travels from low salinity to high salinity (osmotic pressure). So when the salinity gets to high the plants ability to uptake water is reduced and eventually stopped locking out the plants ability to take up nutrients.

Now even though your input levels are say 500ppm as the plant takes up water and salts at different rates you often see the ppm of the media rise. The smaller the container the faster this can happen. Then add evaporation to that which is pure water loss and leaves all the salts. So as the plant drinks and we get evaporation the salts become much more concentrated which leads to high salinity.

Further add to that the saturation of the media. As the media dries back the water become harder to pull from the media as the media will hold onto it stronger in a sense. Think of a soaking wet sponge then you ring it out as hard as you can and lots of water comes out but you cant get anymore water out of it while the sponge is still damp and still has water in it. And no more water uptake equals no more nutrients.

Now add to that the PH can change drastically because of these processes and that causes availability issues for nutrients.

Now those salts buildup in the media each time the dry back to much if your not getting enough runoff to remove the excess so the problem usually happens over time and it can take a significant amount if runnoff to being levels back down to where we need them.

Media has a CEC (cation exchange capacity) and although RW has a low CEC it can hold on to some of the nutrients so we use enzymes to basically free the salts bound by the CEC of the media so they can be flushed away.

After all is said and done you need a light feed so the plants dont go from a lockout to a deficiency so we use a light feed after to ensure this.

To correct it we feed more often with larger run off to prevent this from occurring again.

Thats the basics behind why i say what i say. You cannot just half assed it and if you want to correct it then it’s important to do what I suggested bit in the end thats your decision.

Flush with enzymes (i think recharge or hygrozyme personally) using a ph and temp adjusted water and then feed a low ppm 400-600ppm nutrient solution that is temp and PH adjusted

Aqua
 
Buzzzz

Buzzzz

442
93
I have never run RW but seen many do it well and many do it poorly. In the end its a concept that can happen in any media. Ill explain but its going to be long.

So a few things at play.

Salinity is the amount of dissolved salts (our fertilizers are in salt form this is different than sodium) in a liquid. Water naturally travels from low salinity to high salinity (osmotic pressure). So when the salinity gets to high the plants ability to uptake water is reduced and eventually stopped locking out the plants ability to take up nutrients.

Now even though your input levels are say 500ppm as the plant takes up water and salts at different rates you often see the ppm of the media rise. The smaller the container the faster this can happen. Then add evaporation to that which is pure water loss and leaves all the salts. So as the plant drinks and we get evaporation the salts become much more concentrated which leads to high salinity.

Further add to that the saturation of the media. As the media dries back the water become harder to pull from the media as the media will hold onto it stronger in a sense. Think of a soaking wet sponge then you ring it out as hard as you can and lots of water comes out but you cant get anymore water out of it while the sponge is still damp and still has water in it. And no more water uptake equals no more nutrients.

Now add to that the PH can change drastically because of these processes and that causes availability issues for nutrients.

Now those salts buildup in the media each time the dry back to much if your not getting enough runoff to remove the excess so the problem usually happens over time and it can take a significant amount if runnoff to being levels back down to where we need them.

Media has a CEC (cation exchange capacity) and although RW has a low CEC it can hold on to some of the nutrients so we use enzymes to basically free the salts bound by the CEC of the media so they can be flushed away.

After all is said and done you need a light feed so the plants dont go from a lockout to a deficiency so we use a light feed after to ensure this.

To correct it we feed more often with larger run off to prevent this from occurring again.

Thats the basics behind why i say what i say. You cannot just half assed it and if you want to correct it then it’s important to do what I suggested bit in the end thats your decision.

Flush with enzymes (i think recharge or hygrozyme personally) using a ph and temp adjusted water and then feed a low ppm 400-600ppm nutrient solution that is temp and PH adjusted

Aqua
Good reply thx. It won't have much of a root system anyway so heavy feeding will burn the roots and they simply don;t have capacity and are themselves trying to heal so they have to be babied. Superthrive is a great product,somewhat expensive initially to mend with, start seeds and actually all through growth,no one talks about it anymore but it is one of the additives that actually work.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Good reply thx. It won't have much of a root system anyway so heavy feeding will burn the roots and they simply don;t have capacity and are themselves trying to heal so they have to be babied. Superthrive is a great product,somewhat expensive initially to mend with, start seeds and actually all through growth,no one talks about it anymore but it is one of the additives that actually work.
Never used it. I have always ran a live system and used bacillus amyloliqurfacien. Hydrogaurd, defgaurd,southern ag fungicide, orca, great white and Raw microbes i know all have themat strain in them. Big agricultural has used this fir years to prevent damping off, pythium and a whole host of blight and ither things.

You cannot run them in a sterile system though
 
MArs78

MArs78

25
3
I have never run RW but seen many do it well and many do it poorly. In the end its a concept that can happen in any media. Ill explain but its going to be long.

So a few things at play.

Salinity is the amount of dissolved salts (our fertilizers are in salt form this is different than sodium) in a liquid. Water naturally travels from low salinity to high salinity (osmotic pressure). So when the salinity gets to high the plants ability to uptake water is reduced and eventually stopped locking out the plants ability to take up nutrients.

Now even though your input levels are say 500ppm as the plant takes up water and salts at different rates you often see the ppm of the media rise. The smaller the container the faster this can happen. Then add evaporation to that which is pure water loss and leaves all the salts. So as the plant drinks and we get evaporation the salts become much more concentrated which leads to high salinity.

Further add to that the saturation of the media. As the media dries back the water become harder to pull from the media as the media will hold onto it stronger in a sense. Think of a soaking wet sponge then you ring it out as hard as you can and lots of water comes out but you cant get anymore water out of it while the sponge is still damp and still has water in it. And no more water uptake equals no more nutrients.

Now add to that the PH can change drastically because of these processes and that causes availability issues for nutrients.

Now those salts buildup in the media each time the dry back to much if your not getting enough runoff to remove the excess so the problem usually happens over time and it can take a significant amount if runnoff to being levels back down to where we need them.

Media has a CEC (cation exchange capacity) and although RW has a low CEC it can hold on to some of the nutrients so we use enzymes to basically free the salts bound by the CEC of the media so they can be flushed away.

After all is said and done you need a light feed so the plants dont go from a lockout to a deficiency so we use a light feed after to ensure this.

To correct it we feed more often with larger run off to prevent this from occurring again.

Thats the basics behind why i say what i say. You cannot just half assed it and if you want to correct it then it’s important to do what I suggested bit in the end thats your decision.

Flush with enzymes (i think recharge or hygrozyme personally) using a ph and temp adjusted water and then feed a low ppm 400-600ppm nutrient solution that is temp and PH adjusted

Aqua
Wow so much info, thanks.
 
MArs78

MArs78

25
3
Yup that all makes sense… yeah RW is one if those media that can be very temperamental imand mire so in snaller amounts. When i did 2 gal coco i was feeding some like 14x a day but only 250ml per event.

Once olants get this size in a small media it becomes tough to overwater but in the early stages can be very easy
I hand water….. once the cubes are lighter which takes a day or two, it’s watering time. The thing is not all cubes dehydrate at the same speed. There are always a dozen that feel heavy when lifted.
 
MArs78

MArs78

25
3
I have never run RW but seen many do it well and many do it poorly. In the end its a concept that can happen in any media. Ill explain but its going to be long.

So a few things at play.

Salinity is the amount of dissolved salts (our fertilizers are in salt form this is different than sodium) in a liquid. Water naturally travels from low salinity to high salinity (osmotic pressure). So when the salinity gets to high the plants ability to uptake water is reduced and eventually stopped locking out the plants ability to take up nutrients.

Now even though your input levels are say 500ppm as the plant takes up water and salts at different rates you often see the ppm of the media rise. The smaller the container the faster this can happen. Then add evaporation to that which is pure water loss and leaves all the salts. So as the plant drinks and we get evaporation the salts become much more concentrated which leads to high salinity.

Further add to that the saturation of the media. As the media dries back the water become harder to pull from the media as the media will hold onto it stronger in a sense. Think of a soaking wet sponge then you ring it out as hard as you can and lots of water comes out but you cant get anymore water out of it while the sponge is still damp and still has water in it. And no more water uptake equals no more nutrients.

Now add to that the PH can change drastically because of these processes and that causes availability issues for nutrients.

Now those salts buildup in the media each time the dry back to much if your not getting enough runoff to remove the excess so the problem usually happens over time and it can take a significant amount if runnoff to being levels back down to where we need them.

Media has a CEC (cation exchange capacity) and although RW has a low CEC it can hold on to some of the nutrients so we use enzymes to basically free the salts bound by the CEC of the media so they can be flushed away.

After all is said and done you need a light feed so the plants dont go from a lockout to a deficiency so we use a light feed after to ensure this.

To correct it we feed more often with larger run off to prevent this from occurring again.

Thats the basics behind why i say what i say. You cannot just half assed it and if you want to correct it then it’s important to do what I suggested bit in the end thats your decision.

Flush with enzymes (i think recharge or hygrozyme personally) using a ph and temp adjusted water and then feed a low ppm 400-600ppm nutrient solution that is temp and PH adjusted

Aqua
Thank you so much for your time and advice. Few questions, is there a specific time I should do the flush, does ppm matter when flushing. Also, to go back to when I started seeing the deficiencies, at mid veg I saw some mildew and used eagle 20 at 3ml per gl to combat the situation. Could this have had anything to do with what’s going on now with my plants. Attached is the image before I used eagle 20. Of any of the stuff I’ve done sound ridiculous or crazy…. It’s due to my first time.
 
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SmokinJo421

SmokinJo421

117
28
Hello growers,

New to this forum and to growing. I’ve been struggling with yellowing, crunchy leafs, with brown tips curled downwards and purple stems. I’m growing black runtz. My environment is sufficient, I use rock wool and Athena pro nuts. Second week of flowers, what can I do. Any all suggestions are welcome.
Hey,
You are def nutrient deficient possibly nutrient lock!! I just took a quick glance but u got alot goin on 4 sure. Mite want to put them rite into some high porosity soil minority (I use promix) and chlorine free water
For now I'd recommend Jorge Cervantes grow bible especially if ur gonna keep growing. You'll probly figure out where u went wrong.
 
SmokinJo421

SmokinJo421

117
28
Hello growers,

New to this forum and to growing. I’ve been struggling with yellowing, crunchy leafs, with brown tips curled downwards and purple stems. I’m growing black runtz. My environment is sufficient, I use rock wool and Athena pro nuts. Second week of flowers, what can I do. Any all suggestions are welcome.
Dnt stress/worry over the purple, I personally want the purple traits to come through more!!
It's a water, oxygen, and a nutrient issue!! Good luck hope u figure it out
 
SmokinJo421

SmokinJo421

117
28
i think i am also observing from my first dwc this as well, i fucked up with too high of ppms, probably caused lockout as well

definitely happens when the coco dries back as well
I've always wanted to do hydro and I will do a single pot system in the near future.
I'm sure u knw soil does have ALOT more wiggle room. It's good to let em dry out sometimes really dry. I look at it as the way the weather changes and good/bad stress!
 
SmokinJo421

SmokinJo421

117
28
I've always wanted to do hydro and I will do a single pot system in the near future.
I'm sure u knw soil does have ALOT more wiggle room. It's good to let em dry out sometimes really dry. I look at it as the way the weather changes and good/bad stress!
1 dwn side to hydro is 1 gets sick they all get sick.
That was a natural deterrent 4 me
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Thank you so much for your time and advice. Few questions, is there a specific time I should do the flush, does ppm matter when flushing. Also, to go back to when I started seeing the deficiencies, at mid veg I saw some mildew and used eagle 20 at 3ml per gl to combat the situation. Could this have had anything to do with what’s going on now with my plants. Attached is the image before I used eagle 20. Of any of the stuff I’ve done sound ridiculous or crazy…. It’s due to my first time.
Hey bud you want to flush with PH adjusted and temp adjusted water. Early in lights on cycle.

Then immediately after feed a light nutrient concentration that is temp and PH adjusted until the run off matches the input.

Ima tag a grower that kills it in RW and can explain it better @Dirtbag i know your on a semi break but if your on mind poppin in to help him with some tips fast.

I suggest looking through his journals if you want to pick up some great advice for RW
 
MArs78

MArs78

25
3
You can get lockout from improper PH,the plant is using what it has stored and is waiting for what it needs to become available which isn't. Ph is more important than ec,you can always thin the mixture but if PH is way off nothing will help. Rockwool comes more basic as it's spun rock.
Hey,
You are def nutrient deficient possibly nutrient lock!! I just took a quick glance but u got alot goin on 4 sure. Mite want to put them rite into some high porosity soil minority (I use promix) and chlorine free water
For now I'd recommend Jorge Cervantes grow bible especially if ur gonna keep growing. You'll probly figure out where u went wrong.
I bought that book two days ago.
 

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