Questions aboutsulfur burn...

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sixstring

sixstring

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I had it pretty bad on a few larger plants and i was able to knock it out with 3 burns in a 10 day period and then once a month for about 5 or 6 more burns/months.i have not used my burner in at least 4 months and I'm pretty confident that pm can't grow in my room now as the walls have been coated.i run perpetually and was not able to just shut down and start over.thinking about doing another burn just for peace of mind and the fact my plants always looked better after a good burn.
 
M

maxwell murder

16
3
I had it pretty bad on a few larger plants and i was able to knock it out with 3 burns in a 10 day period and then once a month for about 5 or 6 more burns/months.i have not used my burner in at least 4 months and I'm pretty confident that pm can't grow in my room now as the walls have been coated.i run perpetually and was not able to just shut down and start over.thinking about doing another burn just for peace of mind and the fact my plants always looked better after a good burn.
so every 3 days (approx) for 10 days- how long did you burn each time? i stopped using a burner (in flower) cuz i was perpetual also and heard enough people claim burnin sulfur the last half of bloom would leave a shitty smell/taste?? i have used it all the way thru bloom and never really noticed it- tho i'm no connoisseur i can taste meds that weren't flushed properly but never like "oh shit this dumbass ran sulfur and this weed tastes like sulfur".. anyone ever "taste" or "smell" sulfur (vaporized) on flowers?
 
baba G

baba G

bean sprouts are tasty
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don't run sulfur past week 3-4 in flower. I usually finish vaping by week 2 of flower or earlier.

Think about this, when you vape weed, you could leave the weed in there but it would not release as much activeness as it did when you first put herbs in. I figure you are losing some of the active sulfur when it vapes, even though there is a mass left, as it's not burning but vaping....so, I always put fresh in every vape. Why not, it's dirt cheap for prills.
 
M

maxwell murder

16
3
thanks baba that makes sense.
problem is there's still several weeks left esp with a 70 day flower, what would you use if it came back between week 3 and week 10?
and for me at least- the closer to the end when the plant is pretty much dying and weak- thats when it gets bad...
anyone?
 
ftwendy

ftwendy

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If you expect to have an outbreak during week 3-10, then you need to burn in veg during that time. Plants that throw spores late in flower were weak and infected already.

Be extra diligent with your veg routine and keep a close eye on plant health and stabilizing your temperatures.
 
sixstring

sixstring

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I have this saved on my comp but always forget where its stored lol.but great rules to follow for sulfer burning.

Sulfur is one of the longest-used fungicides. Historical data tracks its use back to more than 1,500 years ago when its fungicidal properties were found to battle pathogens on wheat. For the indoor horticulturist, who probably isn't growing wheat, sulfur can be used to battle a wide variety of fungi, including rose black spot and powdery mildew. Sulfur's effectiveness as a fungicide stems from its ability to prevent the fungal spores from germinating. Sulfur-based fungicides are available in liquid or powder form.

Sulfur burners are devices commonly used by greenhouse and indoor horticulturists to prevent or combat powdery mildew. Sulfur burners heat up powdered sulfur (usually in a small tablet form) until the sulfur reaches its evaporation point. As the evaporated sulfur mixes with the room atmosphere, a thin layer of sulfur forms on the entire surface of the plant (and everything else in the room). This is the most effective way to get complete coverage with a sulfur treatment. Sulfur burners should not be used within four weeks of harvest with any consumable where the sulfur powder cannot be physically cleaned from the surface of fruits and vegetables. Sulfur burners are not safe to use when a person or animal is in the room. Always put a sulfur burner on a timer and never be in the room when a sulfur burner is active.

and some stuff on how caps bennies would be comparable in a bio organic way.peace

Biological Fungicides

Of all the different types of organic fungicides available, none have made such substantial strides as biological fungicides. As we understand more about plant physiology and the way micro-organisms interact with one another, we have discovered some incredibly effective organic biological fungicides. The use of beneficial micro-organisms, usually bacteria, has made organic pest control not only more effective but also healthier for our planet and ourselves.

The most common biological fungicides used in indoor horticulture are strains of beneficial bacteria that feed on pathogens. Organic biological fungicides are generally pathogen specific, or designed to fight one particular disease. Beneficial bacteria strains that feed on powdery mildew spores are one of the most effective natural defenses against this problem in an indoor garden. There are many different organic fungicides that contain fungi-eating bacteria. These products are always a good first choice for a grower because they are easy to use, relatively inexpensive and are even safer than some of the other organic options. Biological fungicides should be the first line of defense for any grower battling or trying to prevent a pathogenic fungal attack. Another benefit to biological fungicides is that they are generally contained in an inert substance that doesn't have any chance of hindering the garden's performance. Once the applied beneficial micro-organisms run out of food (in this case the pathogenic fungi), they naturally die off. This means no residue, no toxic run-off and no possibility of contaminating the sprayed fruits or vegetables.

To maintain optimal growth and avoid a potentially catastrophic occurrence in the garden, horticulturists must be ready at all times to battle a pathogenic fungus. Growers of consumable plants should, at the very least, consider their options with organic fungicides. Today's advancements in technology have produced innovative extraction methods that create biological fungicides and highly concentrated organic substances. Organic fungicides give the grower an ability to preventively treat their plants without the risk of toxicity. Organic fungicides can give growers a shield against opportunistic pathogenic fungi that could otherwise give the unsuspecting gardener an unwanted battle


 

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