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I never tried it as the only product line... But i'm guessing most of the products are quality based on the few I've tried... Probably need dialing in but its completely customization when you think bout it cause everything is in individual packets... Never compared cost doing that way either... I have access to 50lb and 100 lb bags of nutes so I'm always mixing and matching different combos ... But I just burned some plants not long ago also,,, not with RAW nutes ,,just my stupid idea of pushing 2000 TDS/ppm
 
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I see lots of guys on this site buying Expensive nute regimes ... Hell I'm at the farm coop for Hydro set up's for nutes cuz its penny's on the dollar cheaper and most of the time my testers cant tell the difference if I have good run.
 
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Keep in mind you can stay organic with RAW if you know there product chemical structures. Surely SOmebody should show up soon with experience on this product
 
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I've been using their silica for awhile and it's doing the thang for me! Bought a small packet for under $15 and it's lasted longer than any bottled silica I've had ....doesn't screw around with my pH either but tbh you can get these same effects for much cheaper just by watering and/or adding DE to your mix if you're in soil.
 
i use raw when i see deficiencies in my line up, for example phosphorous. I use the phosphorous as a supplement to my existing regiment. It works! But if u ask your hydro shop, they might actually have access to bulk quantity salts. For example, MAP (mono ammonium phosphate) Which is also Phosphorous Raw, but probably a bit stronger, for example raw phosphorous has an npk value of 9-61-0. the other bulk MAP could be something more like 12-62-0 which is the npk of MY M.A.P. And it's also cheaper. Just remember when u buy from raw, you're buying the salts with nice packaging, vs a raw salts in a ziplock bag or something. Both do the same things, the latter could also be stronger, however if you need a quick fix for your nute regiment, they are perfect. But if u do a little research and ask around for a cheaper alternative that does the same thing and sometimes even better, it might be worth it, for example using MOAB vs MKP in raw form, Same thing, probably cheaper to find MKP as well and depending on where u get it from, possibly stronger than MOAB. Stronger is not neccasarily a good thing, but you can always use less to compensate. Do some research and if u can get it bulk for cheaper, why not!? but this is just an opinion i have. I do like the fact that they sell things like yucca and other stuff, amino acids, and so on. but again, you can get bulk for cheaper. just ask your dro store. im lucky to have a dro store that actually looks for these bulks to help out their customers. they only tell u they have them only if you ask for them though. so there's that. they're not gonna say HEY I HAVE SILICATE POWDER AND IT"S WAY CHEAPER AND BETTER THAN THAT DYNAGRO SO BUY THAT. you'd have to ask for it. haha. but if u ask, they'll sell that to u. they'll still make a buck, but save u one as well. anywho, im rambling. GOOD LUCK ALL. I did use raw solubles recommended from a friend who noticed a deficiency in my plants, and it corrected it right away! they're great if your dro store carries this, but not the bulk!
 
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Its not the cheapest but i bought 4 15 dollar small pouches. The RAW Omina. (Amino Acids) the Kelp the Ful Up Fulvic Acid and the Yucca. Quarter tsp of each to a gallon of water. AWESOME. Additive. Especailly a foliar. Very visible difference in roots and shoots. Plants love this shit and for 45 bucks i got about 200 gallons of a catalyst that puts Liquid Karma Nirvana and Trinity to SHAME. SERIOUSLY.
 
I really want to learn how to make my own from salts.
Would be nice to be able to understand what is in the bottle and be able to match it.
Never really gave it much thought before. Now I am getting the urge to learn.
You need to do a lot of reading. But it's worth it. The raw site is a great place to get your feet wet. I use this site to calculate nutrient profiles with each elements ppm.

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

Read each label on the Raw site and play around with the numbers on the angel site to get the profile you want. Then search around on the web to find cheaper bags of chemicals that you want and play with those numbers. You can get stuff really cheap. Micronutrients are harder to calculate but just look at other companies labels and copy that.

The problem with all premixed two part fertilizers is they sacrifice elemental availability for convenience. Certain chemical compounds can not be mixed in concentrate without precipitation which is why you have multipart fertilizers. So all companies use less than ideal sources of elements. Mainly carbonates and ammoniacal nitrogen. When figuring your profile stick with WATER SOLUBLE nitrates, phosphates and sulfates. The down side to this is you'll need two, three or in my case four part concentrates but it's worth it.
 
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You need to do a lot of reading. But it's worth it. The raw site is a great place to get your feet wet. I use this site to calculate nutrient profiles with each elements ppm.

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

Read each label on the Raw site and play around with the numbers on the angel site to get the profile you want. Then search around on the web to find cheaper bags of chemicals that you want and play with those numbers. You can get stuff really cheap. Micronutrients are harder to calculate but just look at other companies labels and copy that.

The problem with all premixed two part fertilizers is they sacrifice elemental availability for convenience. Certain chemical compounds can not be mixed in concentrate without precipitation which is why you have multipart fertilizers. So all companies use less than ideal sources of elements. Mainly carbonates and ammoniacal nitrogen. When figuring your profile stick with WATER SOLUBLE nitrates, phosphates and sulfates. The down side to this is you'll need two, three or in my case four part concentrates but it's worth it.
How does the site you listed work with Raw soulables?
 
How does the site you listed work with Raw soulables?
At the bottom of the page is a nutrient profile calculator. You plug in the element percentages that are listed on the raw product and it calculates the available element in ppm. For example I use a profile of 100n-60p-100k-60mg-60s-90ca-33si in coco and using that calculator it allows me to figure how much of each soluble I need per gallon to get that profile.
 
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I just snatched up a bunch of these packets a few weeks ago, mostly to tweak my current nutes.the nitrogen is instant and strong lol.the humic and amino dont seem very soluble to me, was a lil disappointed about those.
The Omina (amino acids from plant protein hydrolysate) smells and looks exactly like the Ramen noodle flavor packets. Lol. Good shit though. I add a touch now and then to my weekly foliar concoction.
 
I just snatched up a bunch of these packets a few weeks ago, mostly to tweak my current nutes.the nitrogen is instant and strong lol.the humic and amino dont seem very soluble to me, was a lil disappointed about those.
Try putting in warmer water and letting sit 6-12 hours, alsobShaking & stirring mixture in that wait period. Also water should be left sitting over night in resovior so the molicules can settle. This make the water much more effective in consumption for humans as well as all living things. This is scientifically proven information. DrG
 
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I've been using their silica for awhile and it's doing the thang for me! Bought a small packet for under $15 and it's lasted longer than any bottled silica I've had ....doesn't screw around with my pH either but tbh you can get these same effects for much cheaper just by watering and/or adding DE to your mix if you're in soil.
De?
 

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