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Really high Ph what should I do

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Really high Ph what should I do

FleshLite 37 Replies 2,023 Views
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FleshLite

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#1
Sup all! I Came home tonight to one of my plant dying from a 8Ph soil... all I have whit me right now is vinegar should I use this or wait tomorrow to buy something more appropriate?

The leaves are drying really fast id says 1-2 leaves fall down every 10 hours, they are yellow/brown and really crispy
 
#2
How do you reckon your soil is 8!?!?

No there's nothing you can do if it is you destroyed the buffer no vinegar or any rubbish like that's going to restore it.

But no your soil isnt pH 8 or plant would be dead but dying, soil is between 5.5 and 6.5 and buffered to keep in that range with lime.
 
#3
KG1 said:
How do you reckon your soil is 8!?!?

No there's nothing you can do if it is you destroyed the buffer no vinegar or any rubbish like that's going to restore it.

But no your soil isnt pH 8 or plant would be dead but dying, soil is between 5.5 and 6.5 and buffered to keep in that range with lime.
Click to expand...
I used an electronic Ph tester soil was 7.9 (not exactly 8)
 
#5
FleshLite said:
I used an electronic Ph tester soil was 7.9 (not exactly 8)
Click to expand...
Yer they test metallic elemental compounds held in suspension not solids which a soil is.its not a soil tester and a real soil test requires a lab to tell you the buffer power and amount left not just pH.

You've got soil confused with hydro stop testing and causing problems that aren't there.

But I digress there's too much bro science online most seem to think that's how soil works and one drench if ph'd water will reset buffers.

Hope this helps you to stop doing things you shouldn't be and to understand what a soil buffer is and does plus the correct usage for a pH meter.
 
#6
I always use vinegar to lower the pH of our hose water for my outdoor plants. I have an RV filter on the faucet, put 4 gal into a bucket, a couple drops of H2O2 and leave sit overnight. Next day the pH is anywhere between 8.2 - 8.4. I've recently got it figured that about 8ml per gallon will get me down to 6.3 - 6.4 so I use a little Nyquil cup to put 30 - 32ml in the bucket.
 
#7
KG1 said:
How do you reckon your soil is 8!?!?

No there's nothing you can do if it is you destroyed the buffer no vinegar or any rubbish like that's going to restore it.

But no your soil isnt pH 8 or plant would be dead but dying, soil is between 5.5 and 6.5 and buffered to keep in that range with lime.
Click to expand...
I’d of thought it would be higher than 5.5-6.5
Though soil would sit around 6.5-7
No ?
Normally you don’t need to ph soil op btw
 
#8
Gmix said:
I’d of thought it would be higher than 5.5-6.5
Though soil would sit around 6.5-7
No ?
Normally you don’t need to ph soil op btw
Click to expand...
5.5-6.5 is a very small range in the terms of soil chemistry. It suits most species of the world.

Trying to set a soil to an exact number dosent happen with lime unfortunately, you can only aim for a range and be within that. Most soil samples use estimates and approximates over a large area to come to one figure.

Most store soils here are listed as that, canna companies are in a dream of their own.
 
#9
What kind of soil did you buy that is soo basic??? Well you can mix some acidic stuff in it to balance it.
 
#10
Lets just assume your soil is 8.0 PH. If you water at 6.2 PH, I would think the soil PH will follow over time to a more suitable PH. I would keep an eye on the soil PH and when I got around 6.5 PH I would increase the ph of my water to 6.6. You can test the soil ph by doing a slurry test.

Just a thought.....
 
#11
MercDod said:
Lets just assume your soil is 8.0 PH. If you water at 6.2 PH, I would think the soil PH will follow over time to a more suitable PH. I would keep an eye on the soil PH and when I got around 6.5 PH I would increase the ph of my water to 6.6. You can test the soil ph by doing a slurry test.

Just a thought.....
Click to expand...
Let's assume your dead wrong there and sorry to have to point this out!
 
#13
My last outdoor grow was in 2010, rented a house an dumped a wash from a massive seeded crop into the chicken coop, which I am city I jack about outdoor grow . Next spring I had a fracking forest. I let it ride and Strawberry Lemonade was born. No nutrients added, I was growing in the dirt!
Anyway I am sorry about the issue, I wish I could help..
 
#14
1gal Ziploc bag of Strawberry Caugh x Lemon Skunk.
Lemon Skunk was the culprit. Herm, I missed a couple pods. I hashed both crops. It was great!!
No more sharing ventilation with room's or tents. Lesson learned.
 
#15
MercDod said:
Lets just assume your soil is 8.0 PH. If you water at 6.2 PH, I would think the soil PH will follow over time to a more suitable PH. I would keep an eye on the soil PH and when I got around 6.5 PH I would increase the ph of my water to 6.6. You can test the soil ph by doing a slurry test.

Just a thought.....
Click to expand...
I agree on the slurry! Unless you’ve got a pen designed specifically for soil! Not many people have them! Blue lab makes one and it is a big beast and expensive!Do a slurry and check the results against your earlier results! Good luck!
 
#16
Oldchucky said:
I agree on the slurry! Unless you’ve got a pen designed specifically for soil! Not many people have them! Blue lab makes one and it is a big beast and expensive!Do a slurry and check the results against your earlier results! Good luck!
Click to expand...
It's testing run off. I am not as knowledgeable as many here, Is there any way to find out pH in soil without excessive water. I wish I could help.
 
#17
Yeah, you do a slurry! Put your soil in a container and mix it with distilled water at the prescribed ratio! Let it sit for a while and draw off some water and check the pH of it! The only way I know how without a soil pen! There are plenty of videos about doing a slurry test! I just use litmus paper in lieu of a pen! But most indoor growers have a pH and EC pen for liquids! I don’t even mess with it anymore! It’s always been within acceptable parameters! You don’t need much soil and you don’t need much water, but they need to be combined in the correct ratio!
 
#18
If your soil pH is out of whack it's game over you need new soil.

Thats how soil works, otherwise farmers who had bad soil could just pour some water on to reset the pH rather than spending a few years liming and having to restore the buffer.

Real world guys!
 
#19

Soil pH 7.9 Tactical Correction​

To lower soil pH effectively from 7.9, you need terrain-grade acidifiers

AgentDeployment StrengthNotes
Elemental sulfurHighMicrobial conversion to sulfuric acid—slow, deep, biome-safe
Aluminum sulfateMedium–HighFast drop, but can stress root biome—use cautiously
Peat mossMediumAcidic organic matter—improves structure and lowers pH over time
Acidic compostMediumAdds organic acids + microbial support—good for long-term shift

🔧 Tactical Protocol​

  • Log soil type: Clay resists change, sandy shifts faster
  • Apply in stages: Avoid biome shock—gradual acidification over 2–4 weeks
  • Monitor runoff and root zone: pH drift confirms penetration
  • Biome integrity: Pair with microbial inoculants to buffer stress

Tactical Acidification Protocol (Rapid Deployment)​

AgentRoleNotes
Aluminum sulfateFast drop (days)Use fractional doses—can bind P and stress roots
Elemental sulfurLong-term stabilizer (weeks)Microbial conversion—slow, biome-safe
Peat mossStructural + chemical shiftAdds acidity + improves soil texture

🔧 Deployment Strategy​

  1. Apply aluminum sulfate at low dose (¼–½ label rate) to initiate drop
  2. Follow with elemental sulfur to lock in long-term correction
  3. Monitor pH weekly—runoff and root zone
  4. Biome support: Add microbial inoculants to buffer aluminum stress
  5. Avoid overshoot: Target 6.2–6.4, not sub-5.8

Elemental Sulfur Dosage Estimate​

  • Clay soil: ~2.5–3.5 lb per 100 sq ft
  • Loamy soil: ~1.5–2.5 lb per 100 sq ft
  • Sandy soil: ~1.0–1.5 lb per 100 sq ft
These rates are based on Clemson Extension’s acidification model. They assume a target pH drop of ~1.5–1.7 units, which is aggressive but justified for cannabis terrain correction.

🔧 Deployment Protocol​

  • Apply in cool temps (<75°F)—microbial conversion is safer and more stable
  • Water in immediately—activates sulfur and prevents surface burn
  • Don’t reapply for 2–3 months—let biome adjust before stacking
  • Monitor pH weekly—runoff and root zone
InoculantMicrobe TypesTactical Role
Great WhiteMycorrhizae + TrichodermaRoot expansion, pathogen suppression, phosphorus uptake
MikrobsMycorrhizae + Bacillus + TrichodermaFull-spectrum biome support, stress buffering
RechargeBacillus + Trichoderma + Humic/FulvicFast colonization, nutrient cycling, pH buffering
DYNOMYCOHigh-concentration MycorrhizaeDeep root symbiosis, drought resistance
Myco BlissBudget mycorrhizae blendGood for large-area deployment, low cost

Deployment Protocol​

  • Apply post-acidification: Once sulfur and aluminum sulfate are in play, inoculate to buffer biome stress
  • Hydrate with pH-adjusted water: 6.2–6.4 ideal for microbe activation
  • Pair with organic matter: Compost or peat moss boosts colonization
  • Avoid fungicides: They’ll nuke your inoculants
 
#20
Buy some veg nute for acid loving plants.or piss in a bottle and dilute it with rainwater. Fresh compost should make the bacteria produce acid as well but that can be strong
 
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