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Reflow Soldering Xp-e And Xp-g3 To Mcpcbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Homesteader
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Reflow Soldering Xp-e And Xp-g3 To Mcpcbs

Homesteader 45 Replies 7,502 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 46
#23
Wonderwaffle said:
Beautiful man.
Tip: Flux helps solder attach to the solder joints much better than dry.
Click to expand...

I used no clean solder for the reflowing which has flux in it. My solder is 60/40 with flux core. Would it still help to use more?
 
#25
So I have Mark at Cutter designing/retooling to make 140mm boards to fit 30-40 Oslons. The guy is an awesome dude an very much willing to help people out. This will make my build so much easier as I will only need to solder two wires per heatsink and on the outside instead of the 12 up design I have seen. Check his site out if you need stars or emitters. Only one I know of who is using high quality copper boards too.
https://www.cutter.com.au/
 
#26
Using the Blackdog shell(Who said they are worthless?), I mounted three 140 mm pin fins with 35 emitters of Osram Oslon 80's mostly in 5700k but a few 660nm and even less 450nm which are being driven with a Meanwell HLG-185H-700A. I was driving another with the shitty driver but it was giving me the same flickering it was doing in the original equipment. Much gooder!

The fourth heatsink will be driven with the far red cree emitters at a later date.
 

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#27
Took apart the shitty driver and figured the problem. Reconfigured the boards until it felt right but I'm guessing on color. A little blue a lot of white and a handful of 660nm and six 730nm that I wont waste a heatsink on. Although after listening to Growmau and Greenegenes show, I may rethink all this later.

I should also correct a few things that I said, I never heard of an XP-G4 but it sounds cool and the blackfdog are driven at 800mA and not 900 like I stated. You can tell the difference through the glasses here between 800 and 700mA in terms of brightness but you can't tell the differnce without the glasses, they both are bright as hell.
IMG 20170410 144622
 
#29
It surprised me how much more power the blues needed to be driven than the reds. They seemed more sensitive as well because I killed a bunch on the power supply when I first started but it was probably operator error.
The double sided thermal adhesive from the French company I linked earlier was a winner. It was different from the blue putty type but probably old news to the cob diyers
 
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#30
Homesteader said:
It surprised me how much more power the blues needed to be driven than the reds. They seemed more sensitive as well because I killed a bunch on the power supply when I first started but it was probably operator error.
The double sided thermal adhesive from the French company I linked earlier was a winner. It was different from the blue putty type but probably old news to the cob diyers
Click to expand...
Blues like 1000mA while reds like 700mA. I guess whites like 1000mA also.
 
#32
that is a real nice setup. That should yield some great growing. Do you have any UVA in there?
 
#34
These two talk some about 660 and 730 but in general a really good show for the diy led geek.
 
#35
I used an aluminum door frame from the early 70's to mount the heatsinks and drivers. I would have probably used a window frame but I didn't have one. It gives me room to grow;) and is really solid considering the weight of everything.
 
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