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root aphids/ Merit75 and triazizide at same time?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Confuten1
  • Start date Start date Jul 23, 2011
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root aphids/ Merit75 and triazizide at same time?

Confuten1 Jul 23, 2011 30 Replies 5,155 Views
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Confuten1

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#1
just wondering if i can mix both of these in the same drench to treat root aphids Triazizide is whats in spetricide(sorry if im spelling wrong). These are plants in veg, please dont suggest other "organic pesticides"

thnx
confu...
 
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Confuten1

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#2
also, what application rate can i foliar with specticide?

confu
 
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sedate

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#3
confuten1 said:
just wondering if i can mix both of these in the same drench to treat root aphids Triazizide is whats in spetricide(sorry if im spelling wrong). These are plants in veg, please dont suggest other "organic pesticides"
Click to expand...

Isn't Merit a bacterial agent?

I probably wouldn't mix them regardless of whether or not a clear-cut reaction will occur. I think generally it is better to rotate and not mix.

I would do the heavy chemical drench first - since those usually have the most potential for damage as as well as typically the most effect - then apply the Merit with a single, high PPM feeding between them - one would assume the bacteria would hang out a bit longer in the medium and be more effective once the RA population is under control - but this depends a bit on the particular insecticide and I'm only familiar with pyrethrin and pyrethrin synthetics re: typical growroom breakdown times.

I understand you were not looking for another pesticide recommendation, but Insecticidal Soap Concentrate is really cheap (like <$10), particularly well suited to soft-bodied insects, and 40ml/gallon obliterated a RA problem I had over the past month. So, food-for-thought.

Good luck.
 
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Confuten1

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#4
sedate said:
Isn't Merit a bacterial agent?

I probably wouldn't mix them regardless of whether or not a clear-cut reaction will occur.

I would do the heavy chemical drench first - since those usually have the most potential for damage as as well as typically the most effect - then apply the Merit with a single, high PPM feeding between them - one would assume the bacteria would hang out a bit longer in the medium and be more effective once the RA population is under control - but this depends a bit on the particular insecticide and I'm only familiar with pyrethrin and pyrethrin synthetics re: typical growroom breakdown times.

I understand you were not looking for another pesticide recommendation, but Insecticidal Soap Concentrate is really cheap (like <$10), particularly well suited to soft-bodied insects, and 40ml/gallon obliterated a RA problem I had over the past month. So, food-for-thought.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

thnx Sedate, yeah i got some soap aswell, i plan on saving that for flowering if needed. im planning on using merit at .5 tsp as recomended and sppectricide at 15 ml per gal. I agree about applying the spectricide first, my thought is that this one is a contact killer, merit is sestemic, but since i plan on suiting up with a tyvek and respirator, I want to do this once and be done. you feel me?

Confu..
 
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amstercal

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#5
Confuten: Here's what I noticed when I got rid of them for good. I used the Bayer Tree & Shrub (Imid, which is what Merit is made of) and it made the plants photosensitive. I did the Bayer first and the Spectracide second. On reflection, the Spectracide had a more immediate effect (dead bugs right away floating away) and I would do that first if faced with them again. I didn't foliar with anything, but we were p-bombing for mites at the same time and I think it's possible that helped too.

The Imid was pretty harsh on my plants and if I did it again, I would go full dose on the Spectracide first and do a lower follow up dose with the Imid a week later. Since the Imid is systemic, it works better as a preventative than an actual treatment, at least in my experience. We also followed with weekly Azamax waterings until they were healthy. It took a few weeks since they were fairly damaged.

On the foliar spraying, just IMHO but the plants are going to be really inundated with poison already. The Spectracide isn't systemic, so you'd just be contact killing whatever you hit with the spray, and other than the couple of flyers, mine all spent all of their time in the medium or just on it, or I would have noticed them a heck of a lot sooner and not been trying to treat for odd micronutrient deficiencies for so long. Just my 2 cents though.
 
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Confuten1

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#6
^^^ thnx fir the responce amstercal, I also notice an immediate effect when treated with spectricide couple crops ago, didnt notice the photosensitiveness when applying bayer tree and shrub last time though( although i do remember reading it in lilmiss lones thread, i think it was u that posted it.) Reguarding the foliar spray, I want to make sure i get eveything including the flyers, and mabe some eggs or babys on the leaves(dont know if that possible but im treating these RA's as if everything is possible with them.

confu...
 
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amstercal

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#7
Confuten1 said:
^^^ thnx fir the responce amstercal, I also notice an immediate effect when treated with spectricide couple crops ago, didnt notice the photosensitiveness when applying bayer tree and shrub last time though( although i do remember reading it in lilmiss lones thread, i think it was u that posted it.) Reguarding the foliar spray, I want to make sure i get eveything including the flyers, and mabe some eggs or babys on the leaves(dont know if that possible but im treating these RA's as if everything is possible with them.

confu...
Click to expand...

The photosensitivity could have been because the plants were already damaged and it was just too much for them. And I hear you about getting everything... that's why I think the p-bomb is good, and I've been told it's even ok for plants in flowering. I usually err on the side of less poison on the plants though.
 
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Confuten1

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#8
^^^ word, less posion firsure

Confu..
 
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Confuten1

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#9
if anybody is intrested, after taking all input, reviewing threads on this, and remembering the battle previously had and getting stoned and buzzed; i decided to go with spectacide first and only 12ml per gal. 1 hour full soak (meaining filling up the container to the brim with solution by plugging up the drain). I LOVE RA's so much i wanted them to have a pool to swin in,...lol but on the real, tomorrow i will hit them with merit75 @ .5tsp per gal. no "full soak" with that cuzz its sectemic and will b the preventative. Spectracide is the "contact killer". i will then follow up with some incecticidol soap/azamax combo. I will stop with the ladder when plants are lush and thriving, then i will flip the switch. hopeing to get crop done B4 outdoor harvest. thanks fir stopping in.

ohhh, nebody intrested in pixs of 2 diffrent phenos of first whitefire drop. seeds popped cinco de mayo. dropped 5 seeds, 2 made it. one is suppper strechy, and the other, nodes spacing is so tight it might not b suited to tree growing(super tight spacing). completely diffrent plant structure, which tells me Imma find that super wifi pheno that is not only dank as fuck but also suttible for tree growing!! FTWAEE! with so much variance in structure, and dank on all fronts (from everybodys discription) all i got to do is pick the right plant structure phneo and "the budzz wil follow".

only problem is the plants r beat up from RA's. LOL ill post um if u wanna c umm.

Confu..
 
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motherlode

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#10
curious how the battle turned out for you bro

helping out some folks currently trying to decide wether to fight this fight with a bunch of clones or yet delay again the planting of their garden

if it were me personally id scrap everything and start over - but its not my call
 
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Hermitian

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#11
Here's a product that destroys aphids and other common insect pests, yet it is made from Pyrethrum (African Chrysanthemum) extract, Sassafras extract, and Neem Oil (as a surfactant). You can buy it over-the-counter and it is safe for use on all plants:
http://www.greenlightco.com/products/fruittreespray/​
 
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motherlode

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#12
Hermitian said:
Here's a product that destroys aphids and other common insect pests, yet it is made from Pyrethrum (African Chrysanthemum) extract, Sassafras extract, and Neem Oil (as a surfactant). You can buy it over-the-counter and it is safe for use on all plants:
http://www.greenlightco.com/products/fruittreespray/
​
Click to expand...


can it be used as a drench for root aphids?

at what rate?
 
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Confuten1

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#13
What up ML, first off I definitely understand u advising them peeps to Tate down and start over; with that said I deff understand them not wanting to either. So here's where Im at, week 4 of flower everything looks green and healthy, room is overgrown due to me waiting to flip cuz of the RAs. When I stopped seeing fliers and new deficiencies I flipped. I'm over a month behind my original time line. I hit them with spectricide/ merit a couple times each and after a few weeks after the last application I flipped. Week 2, I noticed a few flyers for the first time in several weeks so I hit them with azamax and incecticidal soap worked great(also helped rince off the waxy buildup the RA leave behind) at the same time I started to deal with root rot, so I stepped up the. Enzymes and I also ordered excite-r pyrithum base (like dude ^^^^ suggested)to add to my Rez! Ran for a week in Rez. Been over a week since I've seen a flyer and plants still look healthy. I took some pics and will upload later. Hopes this helps,
Confu.
 
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TrichromeFan

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#14
I say scrap. Damn root aphids! I'm pulling the plug for a good month so I can bomb everything in site after this run is finished.

-TF
 
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motherlode

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#15
hey thx for the info and fast response

pyrithium based stuff like evergreen and exciteR safe for humans? anybpody know the half life on that shit?

how much exciteR per gal you use bro?

about the soap reducing the the wax buildup on the roots - what soap did you try?
 
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ibTheMan

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#16
Theres a trick to usen this stuff right, most dont, The Trick is to let your plants sit in the run off of the spectracide(or any other drench) for ah couple hours, if you dont do that, well your stuff aint go n to work.
 
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altimood

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#17
Try Met 52 from the beginning of your grow and never have problems with RA again. They are in my grow but cant survive in the Met. I swear this stuff is THE shit for RA. Now I don't even sweat root aphids. I do sweat the russet mites. They are the #1 worst pest in the world IMHO.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXqAZdto8R8

Met 52 is Metarhizium Anisopliae strain F52. It is a bioinsecticide, a fungus spore applied to a cereal grain that mixes into your grow medium.
 
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sealed138

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#18
I used spectrecide at 30 ml per gallon and merit at 1tsp/10gal
Alternating every 3rd day.
It worked!

For my clones In 1 1/2" rockwool I flooded my tray with spectracide for 2 hours then dumped it. This worked also. Separate instances.
 
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blackcat

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#19
sealed138 said:
I used spectrecide at 30 ml per gallon and merit at 1tsp/10gal
Alternating every 3rd day.
It worked!

For my clones In 1 1/2" rockwool I flooded my tray with spectracide for 2 hours then dumped it. This worked also. Separate instances.
Click to expand...

hi, i searched spectracide on ebay and i get alot of results, different kinds of products, some liquid some granule, some for roses etc. can you tell me which is best? btw i have some merit coming ... i hit them with 21.4% imid w/ marathon 2 and they are still here 2 days later but im told it takes a few days for it to be taken up by plant and for the RAs to start dying.


im interested in met52 for my organic crops... any info? just granular forM?
 
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sealed138

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#20
It's the liquid. Triazicide made by spectracide.
 
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Replies 30
Views 5,155
Started Jul 23, 2011
Latest post Dec 1, 2011
Starter Confuten1
Forum Cannabis Infirmary

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