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Root Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter MedicalMG
  • Start date Start date Sep 11, 2016
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Root Problems

MedicalMG Sep 11, 2016 25 Replies 8,863 Views
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MedicalMG

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Oct 7, 2016
#21
RoeBuck said:
Adding straight silica can cause other nutrients to drop out and become unavailable to the plants. It will also cause a pretty dramatic rise in pH. I add it to a gallon of water, then pH that solution. I then add it slowly to the system, about a quart an hour. I usually add it with every system change, which is every 18 days or so. Here's some good information on silica: https://manicbotanix.com/silicon-in-hydroponics/
Click to expand...
That was a good read, pretty much seems as long as your not adding more than 100ppm worth to quickly then silica is beneficial. Which I don't i ever even passed much more than 50ppm silica but maybe later ill experiment with higher amounts. gotta ask beside the house and garden line minus the organics what else do you use? silica, cal-mg I assume and what for a sterilizer? I'm just trying to wrap my head around an 18 day res life. Do you re-add your additives at that point or just add the difference in the change of the additives each week?
 
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RoeBuck

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Oct 7, 2016
#22
That's a fantastic web site with some of the best information about RDWC that I've read. I was specifically looking for information on silica when I found it. I've read about everything on the site twice and took lots of notes. I wasn't using silica properly by adding it straight to my epi. Plus I wasn't using it all the time. My current grow is the first using this method. Plants are 12 days flowering and doing great. It's a strain I haven't grown before so can't compare, but I've got some Blue Dream started that I didn't use silica on the last time.

The only other thing I use is bleach as my sterilizer. Again, I got the information from that site. I've got a Hanna free chlorine meter so I tested until I got the right amount of bleach. I mix a solution of 1/2 ml Clorox to 32 oz. RO. I add that solution to the system at the rate of 2 ml per gallon. That give me a reading of .03 -.04 ppm of hypochlorous acid, which is the by product of mixing bleach with water. Hypochlorous acid is the active ingredient in UC Roots. The UC Roots I tested yielded .03 ppm of hypochlorous acid. Up to .05 is fine. It dissipates over about 3 days so I add it every 4 days. Roots look great.

I'm still learning how to properly handle my nutes. I was going through my grow notes yesterday, looking at the numbers I was running. Everything was way too high and I see now why I was having some of the problems I did. I was trying to follow the H&G nute guide too closely and not diagnosing and correcting quickly enough. H&G techs were great help. What I'm doing now, starting at a system change, is set my nute level based on how the plants have been feeding. If they are feeding strong I up the ppm by 50 (500 scale) from where it was in the old solution. So if they were feeding good at 250 I up it to 300. If my ppm readings have been flat I keep the same level or drop it a little. I run a top off res that I set to the same ppm of the system. Over the course of the 18 days it all depends on what they need. My current plants are dropping about 7-8 ppm a day, so I'm supplementing every 5-6 days. Not to say this is the best way to do it, but it's working good for me as I continue to learn.
 
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Ownzu77

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#23
RoeBuck said:
That's a fantastic web site with some of the best information about RDWC that I've read. I was specifically looking for information on silica when I found it. I've read about everything on the site twice and took lots of notes. I wasn't using silica properly by adding it straight to my epi. Plus I wasn't using it all the time. My current grow is the first using this method. Plants are 12 days flowering and doing great. It's a strain I haven't grown before so can't compare, but I've got some Blue Dream started that I didn't use silica on the last time.

The only other thing I use is bleach as my sterilizer. Again, I got the information from that site. I've got a Hanna free chlorine meter so I tested until I got the right amount of bleach. I mix a solution of 1/2 ml Clorox to 32 oz. RO. I add that solution to the system at the rate of 2 ml per gallon. That give me a reading of .03 -.04 ppm of hypochlorous acid, which is the by product of mixing bleach with water. Hypochlorous acid is the active ingredient in UC Roots. The UC Roots I tested yielded .03 ppm of hypochlorous acid. Up to .05 is fine. It dissipates over about 3 days so I add it every 4 days. Roots look great.

I'm still learning how to properly handle my nutes. I was going through my grow notes yesterday, looking at the numbers I was running. Everything was way too high and I see now why I was having some of the problems I did. I was trying to follow the H&G nute guide too closely and not diagnosing and correcting quickly enough. H&G techs were great help. What I'm doing now, starting at a system change, is set my nute level based on how the plants have been feeding. If they are feeding strong I up the ppm by 50 (500 scale) from where it was in the old solution. So if they were feeding good at 250 I up it to 300. If my ppm readings have been flat I keep the same level or drop it a little. I run a top off res that I set to the same ppm of the system. Over the course of the 18 days it all depends on what they need. My current plants are dropping about 7-8 ppm a day, so I'm supplementing every 5-6 days. Not to say this is the best way to do it, but it's working good for me as I continue to learn.
Click to expand...

This is some priceless info! So after shocking with your uc roots equivalent you get a free clorine of roughly .04? Any idea what that is ORP? Have you noticed that chilled water slows this loss of free clorine? Is this the same free clorine you maintain during cloning?
 
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Dizzy Weasel

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#24
Wow I've been running 200ml chlorine to 1gallon of water then deluting 1-2ml gallon that's a crap load according to your testing! I literally just gave them 2ml/gal a day for last 3days and reversed brown roots from a chiller failure to shooting all white fluffers of baskets
 
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Aldo Durden

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#25
Dizzy Weasel said:
Wow I've been running 200ml chlorine to 1gallon of water then deluting 1-2ml gallon that's a crap load according to your testing! I literally just gave them 2ml/gal a day for last 3days and reversed brown roots from a chiller failure to shooting all white fluffers of baskets
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You are saying you use 100x as much bleach as OP? I'm interested to see what happens after a few more days of this treatment.
 
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babyhughie586

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Dec 3, 2017
#26
Ro water ... city water. Not well water unless you have a 3 stage RO commerical/hospital system setup.. slime will hapen.... either that or try to run a live system capulat or Bennie tea.. I ran caps tea at 72degrees water temp.. best harvest I ever had.. loOK it up I thought was a slime problem bit quickly got fixed with a crazy harvest.. 2+ per lb
 
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Thread info

Replies 25
Views 8,863
Started Sep 11, 2016
Latest post Dec 3, 2017
Starter MedicalMG
Forum Under Current - RDWC Growers Alliance

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