Root Rot Help Please!!!

  • Thread starter Sneakyx16
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Sneakyx16

16
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I have the 20 site 8gal for veg. They grow fine with super healthy white roots. Using H&G a&b, cal mag, protekt, root excelurator, drip clean, nitrogen boost, and multizen. Btw i used it at full recommended dosage. I just discovered today after 3 months of using current culture setup that there is this forum and that its recommended to only use half. My ppm in veg has been 800-1000 ppm. But its been perfect n growing fine.

Then i transplant them to flower. Leaves lights off for 24hrs. First time was to 16 site 13xl in 1 room. I put in my nutes. H&G a&b, root excel, drip clean, bud ignitor, bud candy, cal mag, pro tekt. 2 days later... root rot. Almost lost the whole crop, but saved it with h2o2 and hydroguard as told by my local grow store. Although i saved it my crop currently looks like crap. Roots grew back but Small ass nugs and yellowing like crazy ass fan leaves. My ppm flowering week 1-8 was 1000-1300. Now all my fan leaves have yellowed and dried up. Then i added big bud and now overdrive to try to get what i can outta them.

Then i go to veg another 20 plants and n of course they grew fine and beautiful again with same nutes but i added hydroguard since it help me defeat root rot. When i go to transplant 9 of them to flower in another room 9 site 13xl. Used same formula as the 16 site but this time i added hydroguard thinking i got this root rot defeated or i took the precautions to avoid it. Left lights off for 24 hrs again and came back to check on plants b4 switching lights on. See drooping leaves with yellow spots again. Check the roots and bammmmmm!!! Root rot again in a seperate system. This time i just cleaned off the roots and cut them off and put them back on my old flood and drain trays as i saw the amount of time i spent on trying to fight the root rot on the first 16 plants not pay off. I spent a whole month cleaning and changing waters to get horrible small buds. I had to hand feed the first 16 plants until new roots came out too. They even grew healthy too but horrible buds. Maybe due to high ppms?

What am i doing wrong? Is it my nutrients?

Forgot to mention, these systems were all brand new from current culture. I got a 1.5 chiller for the 16x 13xl site. 1/2 hp for the 9x 13xl site and 1/2 hp for the 20x 8gal sites. Water temps from 66-69. Using ro water. Ph 5.6-6.0. I always try to keep at 5.8. With airstones in each site. I ran h2o2 in them right after setup and let run for 24hrs before draining and drying n vacumming all water n let dry with the lights.
About to harvest and veg is almost ready for transplanting to flower again, so i dont want to get root rot again.
Can it be the pumps supplied are strong enough? In my veg 8gal sites, the water return to the nutrient tank is super strong. But in flower its not as strong. Can that be the issue or is it when i carry the plants and they get exposed to the air? I was told i should wrap them or bag them up.
Or can it be dirty rooms with the air pumps sucking the bad air up and feeding them directly to the airstones right into the roots?
Someone please help!!! Omg im so glad i discovered this site todaywith so many current culture growers!!! So much useful info. I was searching google for the past 2-3 months on root rot and current culture, but never got results for this site. Wtf?
 
RoeBuck

RoeBuck

152
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I've been using H&G nutes and had a similar experience my first 2 grows. After consulting with H&G tech support they recommended I immediately stop using Root Excelerator. It's an organic product and will cause a film to develop on top of the water which will not only clog things up, but will also promote root rot given the high aeration in these systems. Once I stopped using it and committed to going fully sterile the problems stopped. I'm not sure about those AN supplements you are using but I would check and find out if they are also organic. If so, I would suggest discontinuing their use. I'm running Aqua Flakes A & B, Drip Clean, Multi Zen, and N Boost in veg, then stopping the N Boost and adding Bud XL, Top Boost and Top Shooter in flower. I keep my ppm, on the 500 scale, around 500 tops for most strains. Once every 2 weeks or so I give them .5 ml per gallon of Clorox as a disinfectant, starting once the roots are well established. I just got some UC Roots that I intend to use instead of the Clorox. I've learned that the bleach can inhibit root growth if given too early and too often.

Don't hesitate to call H&G tech support. I've talked to them 5-6 times and they have been very supportive and knowledgeable. They highly recommend running sterile, especially for new users of RDWC systems. Also note that their Algen Extract and Amino Treatment are also organic and not recommend for RDWC systems.
 
420bassmastr

420bassmastr

23
3
I've been running the ionic line in dwc and flood n drain systems, I have the same issues. The only way I can seem to avoid it is to add h202 to each res change. I think when this run is done for me I'll let the entire system soak in bleach water for 24hrs. Then try running without the h202 to see if it worked.
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
"I put in my nutes. H&G a&b, root excel, drip clean, bud ignitor, bud candy, cal mag, pro tekt."

1. Have you contacted H&G for insight on using their nutrients?
2. You're using too many inputs.
3. Root excel, bud candy and pro tek are all problematic in UC's.

Keep it simple. Run the A/B and calmag. Too many inputs leads to problems, especially when they include organic inputs (biofilms), carbs (feeds pathogens) and silica (biofilms).
 
RoeBuck

RoeBuck

152
43
Also, what is your water source? Even treated tap water can contain pathogens that can be problematic in high aeration environments like RDWC. RO with a UV filter is probably the best choice.
 
smokedareefer

smokedareefer

1,773
263
co2 in the flower room?
wheres your air pump?
have you tried leaving them in veg for a bit when you put them in the new room?
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
Also, what is your water source? Even treated tap water can contain pathogens that can be problematic in high aeration environments like RDWC. RO with a UV filter is probably the best choice.
Its well water.
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
co2 in the flower room?
wheres your air pump?
have you tried leaving them in veg for a bit when you put them in the new room?
I was thinking of trying that for at least a few days to a week. Yes co2 in the flower and the air pumps are placed in between the buckets on the floor. But i read that it needs to sit above ground and i just recently placed them 1.5 feet on a table above ground.
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
"I put in my nutes. H&G a&b, root excel, drip clean, bud ignitor, bud candy, cal mag, pro tekt."

1. Have you contacted H&G for insight on using their nutrients?
2. You're using too many inputs.
3. Root excel, bud candy and pro tek are all problematic in UC's.

Keep it simple. Run the A/B and calmag. Too many inputs leads to problems, especially when they include organic inputs (biofilms), carbs (feeds pathogens) and silica (biofilms).
Thank you so much i now know n hope that is my problem gonna take thise out and run uc roots as everyone is praising it although its watered down bleach. Im willing to pay for it rather than have a messed up crop n not waste time trying to cure the root rot.
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
I've been using H&G nutes and had a similar experience my first 2 grows. After consulting with H&G tech support they recommended I immediately stop using Root Excelerator. It's an organic product and will cause a film to develop on top of the water which will not only clog things up, but will also promote root rot given the high aeration in these systems. Once I stopped using it and committed to going fully sterile the problems stopped. I'm not sure about those AN supplements you are using but I would check and find out if they are also organic. If so, I would suggest discontinuing their use. I'm running Aqua Flakes A & B, Drip Clean, Multi Zen, and N Boost in veg, then stopping the N Boost and adding Bud XL, Top Boost and Top Shooter in flower. I keep my ppm, on the 500 scale, around 500 tops for most strains. Once every 2 weeks or so I give them .5 ml per gallon of Clorox as a disinfectant, starting once the roots are well established. I just got some UC Roots that I intend to use instead of the Clorox. I've learned that the bleach can inhibit root growth if given too early and too often.

Don't hesitate to call H&G tech support. I've talked to them 5-6 times and they have been very supportive and knowledgeable. They highly recommend running sterile, especially for new users of RDWC systems. Also note that their Algen Extract and Amino Treatment are also organic and not recommend for RDWC systems.
Thank you so much i now know n hope that is my problem gonna take thise out and run uc roots as everyone is praising it although its watered down bleach. Im willing to pay for it rather than have a messedup crop.
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
I've been running the ionic line in dwc and flood n drain systems, I have the same issues. The only way I can seem to avoid it is to add h202 to each res change. I think when this run is done for me I'll let the entire system soak in bleach water for 24hrs. Then try running without the h202 to see if it worked.
Well after i cleaned it with multiple reservoir changes and cutting off all abd roots in weeks 1 n 2 of flower. I didnt have to use h2o2 at every reservoir chg. I used hydroguard n it seemed to help it. Never saw it in the 16 site again. It was just the 2nd room it had the same problem but i was using the same nutes. So im thinking its the nutes i used. Should b protekt and root excelurator. Ill try it without in my next bloom transition n keep u guys updated. Either nutes or stress from the transplant is what im narrowing it down to. Also gonna add uc roots tho.
 
palm eezy

palm eezy

79
18
Probably water quality issue.. I use a combination of ozone bubbled through my holding tanks & homemade UC roots (24 gram pool shock/gallon of water.) That was my magic bullet.
 
420bassmastr

420bassmastr

23
3
What's your water temperatur, that has a bit to do with root rot. I was told 72° max, any warmer than that dump it and start fresh. I've had good results so far with 65-70 degrees. I haven't tried the hydroguard, may have to read up on that!
 
smokedareefer

smokedareefer

1,773
263
I was thinking of trying that for at least a few days to a week. Yes co2 in the flower and the air pumps are placed in between the buckets on the floor. But i read that it needs to sit above ground and i just recently placed them 1.5 feet on a table above ground.

i asked about the air pump and co2 ruling out a thought that you may be pumping enriched co2 air to the roots.

i beleive they advise raising the air pump is in case of a power failure where the water from the system will syfon back and kill your air pump.
 
snoopytime

snoopytime

188
63
Ive heard and maybe read air pump intake from outside the room -

- extra CO2 dissolved in system water drops PH and displaces dissolved oxygen
- the temp of the air going in the water is like 85 degrees PLUS the added heat from compressing it.

The only thing I dont know is how to get around 'un-sealing' the room, if you keep putting fresh air in, it has to come out . . and we all know if comes with stink lol

I guess you could run a tiny vent 4" or so with an inline ozone generator and vent it way out the roof or something
 
RoeBuck

RoeBuck

152
43
Its well water.

Since it's well water it's quite possible that there are some pathogens in the water that, once in that super charged environment, are feeding on the organics and multiplying. You can buy an in line UV filter to kill anything in the water. Again, I would highly recommending running a sterile system as they are a lot easier to control. To me, running organics in RDWC is an advanced technique and one that shouldn't be undertaken until you become more confident in running these systems. I made that mistake on my first two grows and had similar issues to what you're experiencing. Since I went sterile, things have been much better.
 
S

Sneakyx16

16
3
What's your water temperatur, that has a bit to do with root rot. I was told 72° max, any warmer than that dump it and start fresh. I've had good results so far with 65-70 degrees. I haven't tried the hydroguard, may have to read up on that!
Usually 66-68
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
Though the well water is likely a contributing factor, the issue is that you're using the wrong inputs.


You're using too many inputs.
Root excel, bud candy and pro tek are all problematic in UC's.
 
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