Sannies Jack F5 x Double Strawberry Diesel

[Snowblind]

I dont use additives or boosters. I feed only Jacks Hydroponic with added Calcium nitrate. I dont feel that they are needed ever! I could be wrong though.........

KoolBloom for example is just Magnesium Sulfate, Ammonium Phosphate and Sulfate. They sell it to you for so much money! I dont feel that your plants need this stuff! Their plate is already full from the nutes that I give them as a balenced diet. I dont ever let the P get to high in flower! Phosphate is not needed to the degree people blast their plants with it!

Anyone else agree with with my opinion concerning P?

http://www.growersunderground.com/PhosphorusMyth.pdf

Plants dont appear to need or want a big boost of P in flower. They need a little added N and K and a touch of added P over veg.....check out the bar graphs...cannabis wants K at a 4 to 1 ratio over P in flower! You dont need all that Phosphate!

One reason for the smaller buds is the fact that the plants are 12 week plants! I believe that is what it said on the seed package, however, I cant quite remember. Im sure these buds would swell more over the next 2-4 weeks if I could grow them out further. I also did not maximize yield. It is my fault..........

Here is the guaranteed analysis for scotts Jacks Hydroponic 5/12/26 product number 77251. You need to add Calcium Nitrate to this to add Ca and N to reach the levels needed for proper plants growth. this allows you to control the N and Ca levels......

Total nitrogen...........................5%
5% nitrate nitrogen
Available phosphate (P2O5).......12%
Soluble potash (K2O.................26%
Magneusium.............................6.32% water soluble magnesium
Sulfur........................................8.21%
Boron........................................0.05%
Copper (all chelated)...................0.015%
Iron (chelated)............................0.3%
Manganese (chelated)................0.05%
Molybdenum..............................0.01%
Zinc (chelated)...........................0.015%

Derived from: potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulfate, boric acid, iron edta, manganese edta, zinc edta, coppoer edta, ammonium molybdate





This is the breakdown of 3.0 g per gallon of Jacks and 1.8 g per gallon of Calcium Nitrate.This combo is actually good to go and close to 75% strength(4.25 grams of Jacks per gallon is full strength). I add Nitric Acid for ph down which boosts the elemental ppm of the N a bit. I just made some ph down with sulphuric acid. I will start using that soon. Adding ph down from GH is phosphoric acid and will add P to the mix...

N...113
P.....41
K....171
Ca...90
Mg...50
S.....65

535 elemental ppm
5.7 pH very strict
3.0 g/gal Jacks Pro Hydro Special (A)
1.8 g/gal CaN03 calcium nitrate (B)


I like the Ca:N ratio of .8 and the N:P ratio of .66 and the K:P at 4.17 a great deal. Those are very close to what I want to shoot for...very close to modern analysis of cannabis tissue samples.

ppm is kept very low at all times a very cool mix!!!......



To quote a post that greatly influenced me.....these are not my words...

Something else that perhaps bears mentioning, in an effort to cut through myth, bs and marketing hype... and I bring this up based on experiences of people who know more than I do, and for the fact that I have come to see the truth of it myself.

I originally began using Liquid Kool Bloom because I had read ads and read that so many people were using bloom boosters. The plants need extra P and K, yada yada. I bought into it, before I had any clue what I was doing.

But the truth is - no - you don't need any kind of booster. The bloom mix is all the girls need. All the way through the grow, to the very last day. Adding any kind of booster just skews the nutrient balance. If the plants do actually benefit at all, then they weren't getting the right mix in the first place.

I messed with this one additional time a few months ago. Bad idea. Stalled the plants. Found the same thing if I started adding supplements to the topups. Water only now; just do the res changes frequently.

I have come to view plant growth as surfing. If I can provide the right conditions for a cutting to root well and grow vigorously, that plant has "caught a wave". If I can keep her riding that wave right through to harvest, I will have a tree with a spectacular yield.

If however, anything happens that causes the plant to crash off the wave, what I refer to as "stalling", it will take her awhile to find another wave, and she won't ride nearly as high, or as far. You end up cutting down a somewhat lame plant. Been there, done that, oh so many times.

What has emerged in my observations is maintaining a consistent nutritional regimen. In other words, I run the same TDS in veg and bloom, I don't add supplements or additives, always the same strength mix, always replenished at a consistent interval. The plants seem to have come to expect that same pattern. Should I deviate, my yield will suffer. Even just postponing a res change for a day can impact the momentum of the plant, for lack of a better term. And adding supplements or boosting nute strength just throws everything out of whack.

The plants really do tell us what's going on. I believe the strength of the experienced people who grow amazing plants is in knowing how to read what the plants are telling them, and knowing what to do. Me, I'm still just beginning to figure this out. Not knowing much of the science, I ride by the seat of my pants with observation and trial and error.

 

[Shady]

No worries brah... I'm not an expert at nutrient profiles. I do however believe there's a difference between a PK boost and blasting to much Phosphorus or Potassium. IMHO, in the end, genetics are the most important factor... And I wasn't trying to start an argument as I know you're harvesting early, I was simply trying to understand the Jack's Hydroponics that you're using... :thinking

 

[Snowblind]

Shady I always appreciate your input! I welcome any feeback and discussion! I aspire to grow anything as well as you do. I love your Shady style.

I dont ever get mad and I want to hear all opinions and facts! I love to talk plant nutrition in fact and hydro in general. I lack lots of information and knowledge! The mixing your own nutrients thread here at the Farm and many Fatman threads across the internet at sites before he gets banned have been the source of my recent inspiration.

 

[Shady]

My friend... You are too kind with your words... I've got a lot to learn and plenty of room for improvement. While my plants may look good at times, I've seen others grow the same strain with a diff nute regiment and have much better results... I'm thinking of Grape Romulan and Casey Jones in particular. My buddy that grew these two strains has an extremely complicated regiment and a long list of base nutes and supplements. I believe his regiment is too complicated for me and like you, I'm searching for a more simple and basic approach. Let me quote an example:

the cheapest coco available and then used for 4 pulls
veg formula in coco
cns17 grow @ 30ml pr gl
ca/mg @ 5 ml every other feeding
protekt silicate as ph up to 5.8

green fuse root can be used

bloom

cns17 grow @ 30 ml until day 21
ca/mg @ 10 ml until day 21
protekt as ph up to 5.8

day 22
cns17 ripe until finish
silicate ph up to 5.8
add hammerhead at 50% around day 30 only one application

expensive nutes and coco are a waste of money , bend over growers lol my whole run now costs me less than the roots excel i used to use for one run with no loss of yield or quality ...

if you want a cheap zyme product head to the local hardware store and get septic tank cleaner lol that's what advance re-packages as sensizyme now you know , it don't take 50 additives or a million dollars in nutrient lines ...

While Obs is using coco in this situation, I'm focused on his one time use of HammerHead PK at Day 30 of bloom... To me, this is a PK boost and signals to the plant that it's time to kick flower production up a notch. I like this approach, but for the most part I've been playing around with diff timing and dosages of PK boosts over the last 8 rounds. Admittedly, I also use the HammerHead/MOAB combo to help ripen the plant or sometimes help finish them if they keep throwing out more white pistils...

My reality is that I've played around with diff timing of changing nutrient profiles and have seen diff results. In my current Round 10, I've got the Guava 13 and Alien Kush F2 on the same res for several weeks and only recently hit them with a single feed of MOAB because the Guava 13 seems like she could just continue to bloom and ultimately foxtail past 10 wks, whereas the Alien Kush looks like she's almost done around 9 wks. So I definitely understand what you mean by keeping a consistent profile throughout bloom... I just think that diff strains and phenos will tell us that they want more or less of certain nutrients. That also makes me think about feeding a sativa lightly and an indica heavily... Should we just assume that the nutrient profile should be the same for both or even a hybrid, but just in different nutrient strengths? I like these types of discussions as I'm willing to experiment with Jack's Hydroponic and the additional Calcium Nitrate, or even CNS... Maybe I'll try to get some samples in the future and do some comparisons... :thinking

 

[Snowblind]

More on Jacks Hydro formula....

Our researchers at J.R. Peters have a formulated a 2-step fertilization system specifically for
hydroponic applications, that will supply the ideal nutrient levels to your plants. These fertilizer
products are available in our commercial line called Jack’s Professional. Using a combination of
Jack’s Professional Hydroponic 5-12-26 and Jack’s Professional Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0, this
system can be easily customized to fit your operation, whether you grow 2 or 20,000 hydroponic
plants.
SPECIAL MIXING DIRECTIONS:
Jack’s Hydroponic formulation and Jack’s Calcium Nitrate are packaged separately, and require a
little special attention when mixing - in order to avoid forming a precipitant in the tank. These
products must be dissolved either in a two tank system or in dilute (or Ready-to-Use) quantities.
Following these specific stepwise directions is vital, along with the knowledge that these items
should NEVER be mixed in a concentrate tank together.

These specialized products are available directly through the J.R. Peters Laboratory. Check out
our website www.jrpeterslab.com. Products are available in 1lb, 5lb and 25lb containers. Feel
free to place your order directly online or call the lab directly to order.


Ok what plants are they talking about? It turns out all plants follow a basic elemental need. See the link that i posted above and look at the graphes of the 3 different strains. Pot is not really different then any other plant. This Jacks Hydroponic formula seems to mimic plant tissue samples of cannabis although Peters will not admit this if you call them on the phone. Crop King also offers a formula that is very similer.


This is the Jacks at 100% or 4.25 grams per gallon, before the added Calcium Nitrate

Total ppm
Nitrogen (All Nitrate) N 50
Phosphorus P 52
Potassium K 215
Magnesium Mg 63
Sulfur S 82
Iron Fe 3
Manganese Mn 0.50
Zinc Zn 0.15
Copper Cu 0.15
Boron B 0.50
Molybdenum Mo 0.10

After the added CaNo3 the N is boosted to N: 150 ppm,
and Calcium as Ca: 116 ppm Ca so 100% Str with 100% Calcium nitrate you have a formula of....

Total ppm
Nitrogen (All Nitrate) N 150
Phosphorus P 52
Potassium K 215
Calcium C 116
Magnesium Mg 63
Sulfur S 82
Iron Fe 3
Manganese Mn 0.50
Zinc Zn 0.15
Copper Cu 0.15
Boron B 0.50
Molybdenum Mo 0.10

You add epson salt for added Mg for Mg hungry strains...and I run approx 75% strength of the above formula! 3.0 grams of Jacks and 1.8 of CaNo3. This is a 2.88-1-4.13 ratio of N-P-K.....

While Obs is using coco in this situation, I'm focused on his one time use of HammerHead PK at Day 30 of bloom... To me, this is a PK boost and signals to the plant that it's time to kick flower production up a notch. I like this approach, but for the most part I've been playing around with diff timing and dosages of PK boosts over the last 8 rounds. Admittedly, I also use the HammerHead/MOAB combo to help ripen the plant or sometimes help finish them if they keep throwing out more white pistils...

I feel that the switch to 12/12 signals the start of kicking flower production up a notch. The plants dont need any real added P at this point as shown in that link above. They need a higher amount of K! If you are feeding them a higher ratio of K to P throughout their lives they are blooming in full force riding the "wave". People pump all that P into their plants then they need to starve them at the end of their lives in order to flush out all the stuff they added. Added P is garbage imho. When you feed the right nutes the plants can be fed right up untikl the end, you flush for a day, using sufuric acid keeping the water at a ph of 5.0, the results will be impressive. You balance the P and your weed tastes very good! Burns clean! Jacks Hydroponic fed to your plants until the end yield weed that burns to a gray, white ash that burns with no pop or sizzle.........higher sulfur adds to the taste!!!!!!!

41 ppm of Phosphorus and 171 of Potassium just over 4 to 1....K to P ratio with the Jacks.....

As a grower, you owe it to yourself to grow with an exact understanding of the elemental ppm of your nutes. Use a nute calculator to figure it out! This is the one that got it all started for me...

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

keep in mind I use just this calculator as I dont agree any longer with PH (the person) or Mel Franks old cannabis nutrient elemental ratios as described in the article! Way too much Phosphorus! Just plug in your numbers and go.

Shady im curious how often have you been changing your reso? How often do people change in UC?

I just think that diff strains and phenos will tell us that they want more or less of certain nutrients. That also makes me think about feeding a sativa lightly and an indica heavily... Should we just assume that the nutrient profile should be the same for both or even a hybrid, but just in different nutrient strengths? I like these types of discussions as I'm willing to experiment with Jack's Hydroponic and the additional Calcium Nitrate, or even CNS... Maybe I'll try to get some samples in the future and do some comparisons... :thinking

I would feed a different percent strength of the same elemental N-P-K ratio to different plants in this case. Meaning instead of 75% strength of Jacks (Jacks is 2.88-1-4.13 N-P-K elemental ratios) I would give a Sativa if it was picky maybe 65% Jacks (based on 4.25 grams per gallon being full strength). I grow at a 3-1-4 ratio......

This is not to be confused with the N-P-K ratio that is listed on the label of nutrients. This ratio is not the elemental percentage of whats contained in the fertilizer at all(the N is the correct percentage, as it is shown on the label as an elemental percentage and not as a compound but I dont want to get into that right now, P and K are listed as required by law in their oxide forms!).

Powder Kool bloom = 2-45-28 on its label

This is an elemental breakdown to 2.5 ppm N per gram, 49.5 ppm of P per gram and 58 ppm of K per gram!

So N=2.5ppm P=50ppm K=58ppm per gram of powder per gallon of water......This is added top of whatever you are already feeding your plants.......thats what you are adding when you boost with powder kool bloom....no wonder people have to cut off all nutes and flush for weeks!LOL!!! That shit is so funny.

Here is a post from the Fatman. These are his words not mine...

"The closet to a MJ plant is the "hemp" plants grown through out the U.S.. during WW II and just after that time. They found that the plants grow best when fertilized as if they were tobacco, corn silage or fodder when field grown and as foliage plants when green house grown. One does have to consider all the early research geared mainly around growing plant in the vegetative state until the plants started diverting its energy into reproduction. Then the testing went into importing ruderalis and hash strains so as to shorten and bush out the plants as the combines could not handle the ntaural sativa plants which were to tall. It wasn't until the 60's that much research was geared towards improving its possible medicinal qualities.

Consider Green peppers or chiles are 3:1:3, fodder is 3:1:3, spinach is 3:1:4, herbs are 2:1:1.5 while tomatoes are 4:1:5 and very high in calcium. The hydroponic grows in the 50's and 60's showed that MJ responded best to the simple 3:1:2 ratios used for green house foliage type plants. Even AN, low and be hold, who say they are at the forefront of the MJ nutrient field are now putting out Sensi formulas that are nearing the old traditional 3:1:2 formulas of old. Why do I use a near 3:1:2 ratio etc, because over the years I have found it to work the best and have mixed and sold it to dozens of large growers who also swear by it. I also know many commercial growers who mix their own fertilizers and in general they always seem to return to a formula near the standard old 3:1:2 ratio. Recently (the last year or a bit more) has brought about better nutrient delivery systems and therefore allowing increases in the other parameters meaning a k higher potash than from the 3:1:2 ratio.

Lucas is not really a good mix, it is just a fair and simple mix that works. It is a 0.42, 0.83, 1.0 ratio. Nothing like what is really recommended. I really do not know why it made it to the Fad level. I really find it hard to believe that GH even came up with the Flora Bloom formula which is Lucas with humus. It is simply a matter of a manufacturer providing what people want even when it is not a better product. If you actually look at the analysis of GH FloraBloom and Flora micro you would see that Lucas was back ass back wards when he came up with his formula. He advised two parts Bloom to one part Micro. If he would have gone with two parts micro and one part bloom he would have gotten a ratio of 3.3, 1.6, 2 but it would have a mess of calcium at 333 ppm. That high calcium would mean that the reservoir s would likely have to be changed out weekly rather than going for weeks or a full grow by just adding water and more nutrients.

IMHO neither GH or AN make a really good mj nutrient product for hydroponics, especially not for a good aero system with large tubes or chambers. I really doubt they will ever make a good formulation for good intermittent mists systems such as high pressure chamber or atomized chamber. They do not make formulations for commercial growers just hobbyists and it is doubtful enough hobbyists will ever spend the energy, time or money to move up to the better more expensive systems. The more efficient the system is the greater the difference ratios, and balanced pH's mean. Carbonate chemistry is much harder to deal with when TDS levels low right from the beginning as they are with efficient systems. Consider this: the actual recommended calcium to nitrogen ratio for MJ is 0.8-1. How many retailed nutrients out there do you see where the calcium to nitrogen ratio is that high unless the nitrogen level is very low. That is why the retail manufacturers are selling low nitrogen formulas. They sell low nitrogen so they can use lower levels of calcium. Low level calcium formulations make growers happy as they can go longer times between reservoir change outs and so they have to adjust the pH less and worry about magnesium deficiency less.

Basically it means poorer quality nutrients, potency and yields for a given growing time in order to allow for easier maintenance and less grower knowledge. It has become quiet common in the last few years for people to say the use plain tap water without problems. That says a lot about too low calcium levels supplied by manufacturers and that is usually an indication that their Nitrogen levels are really low also. Lately the trends has been high phosphorus and high potash, then throw in high calcium and magnesium at blooming. That is strange as balanced nutrients near or about 3:1:2, calcium of at least half to 1.5 to 3 and magnesium about half on the nitrogen or calcium through out still produce the best results. Calcium is really a very good way to control nutrient up take in efficient systems. As long as the ratio of calcium to magnesium is about 2:1 the calciums high EC means it has a lot of control over the amount of other nutrients that are available.

It is easy to experiment and see that increasing the ratio of calcium lowers uptake and lowering the ratio increases uptake when feeding low ppm nutrients. Kinda mind boggling though. With a captured drain to waste nutrient system allowing tds measurement you would find something like input TDS 600 ppm (with high calcium), drain at 450 ppm. 650 ppm input (low calcium), drain at 350 ppm. That means not only did the plants take up a higher ppm of nutrients but the percentage was also higher in nutrients other than calcium. To gain by this you have to be able to bring your self to almost daily read a nutrient deficiency and antagonist chart though.

I just checked out an add for FloraNova grow and it is 1.75 to 1 to 2.5. So it is swinging closer to 3:1:2 than the original Micro and grow mixed to 3.5:0.5:3.5. The FloraNovaBloom is 4:8:7, and there old Micro and bloom was 2.5:2.5:2.5. Sure seems strange that they only added humic and fulvic acids made from lenoraddite coal but now list the products as organic. I just in the last day or so added humus to the nutrient thread. For those curious, leonardite coal is the brown coal often found mixed in with soft black lignite coal. Some say it is almost coal and almost peat moss. They dissolve the coal with potassium hydroxide, they then add a little phosphoric acid. This form s mushy mass (humic substance) and fulvic acids (the solution). If the just want the humic acid, they pour off the fulvic acid and add water. The water contains humic acids. Usually most manufacturers use/combine the fulvic and humic acids and just call it humus. The new Fad.

For what it is worth for the set ups I use I run formulations of veg 3.26, 1, 3.55 and Bloom of 2.81, 1, 4.4 I am running closer to 3:1:4 rather than 3:1:2. My use of higher potassium is due to the use of tight SOG grows with growing temps around 88 to 92 degrees, very high transpiration due to low ppm nutrients and dehumidification down to around 35 to 40 during veg and 25 to 30 during budding, and lots of CO2.

The general horticultural description of potash as a nutrient: Potassium is a key activator of many enzymes, especially those involved with carbohydrate metabolism. Potassium is also responsible for the control of ion movement through membranes and water status of stomatal apertures. Potassium therefore has a role in controlling plant transpiration and turgor. It is generally associated with plant 'quality' and is necessary for successful initiation of flower buds. As a result the levels of potassium in nutrient solutions are increased as plants enter a 'reproductive' phase, and as crops grow into lower light levels, in order to maintain nutrient balance in solution.


So is the 3:1:2 ratio perfect. No it just seems to be one of the better choices of those nutrient formulas that are available for those who are growing at more common temperatures and humidities. Would added potassium make the formulation better. If you growing parameters are above average, then yes increasing the potash ppm would likely be helpful. If not you will very likely just be adding potassium hydroxide every day anyway so you might as well add it initially instead of adding so much every day by using pH up during budding."

 

[Snowblind]

Ok as an experiment I have 8 different strains in these 12 buckets all fed with Jacks from the same reso! Take a look. No real signs of issues. Cannabis plants seem hungry for a little more Mg depending on the strain. The Jacks is giving 62 ppm of Mg so I add epson salts at 1/2 g per gallon. If I see a Mg issue I know where im at in terms of the ppm and can control what I add or omit and observe the affects of my change to the nutes or feeding schedule on the plants. If I have a deficiency I want to understand for example that the 113 ppm of N was not enough so I need to boost that a little.


The Casey Jones are heavy feeder and could use a slightly higher concentration of the formula, however, they are blowing up at 3.18 grams per gallon of the Jacks.
There is no claw because the N is controled, The PPM of the feed is so low. I balance the ratio of Nitrogen to Phosphorus to Pottassium to Sulfur to Calcium to Magnesium.

Anyone out there getting what im putting down here? Anyone agree? Anyone disagree or not give a shit?

Jacks cost very little for a 25 pound bag. The shipping is more than the product! Imagine freeing yourself from the load of crap that is the fert industry and realize your biggest yields with the simplest formula possible. You have nothing to lose by trying....

 

[Shady]

First off... Fucking gorgeous plants my friend! They look perfect and I too follow the motto of "less is more"... I've consistently mixed many strains on the same tray each round and will always set my overall PPM's low to ensure that all plants are happy and only a few may show deficiencies wherein I'll add a handwatered dose separate from my res. Although I'm no expert, in my shady experiments it seems as though there is a fine line between P and K that can bring upon the onset of flower development faster after the photoperiod has been switched to 12/12... Also root development seems to slow down greatly after the first trimester of bloom. So with that in mind I think of the saying "Up, down, all around" as it relates to the base NPK ratio.. Nitrogen for upward growth, Phosphorus for root growth, and Potassium for overall growth...

Second, I can see how passionate you and Fat Man are about the elemental balance of necessary nutrients... I'm guessing you're quite familiar with Mulder's Chart of nutrient interactions. So we can prob agree that there is a fine balance of the nutrient profile at play here. I think the difference in our views is that I tend to run many diff mediums and nutrient regiments for each... So I will never stick with just one hydroponic nutrient mix. In soil plus coco, I hand water with a semi organic regiment of PBP, CalMag, FloraBlend, Humic Acid, Silica, HammerHead, MOAB, Roots Excelurator, Great White, and Molasses... Can this be achieved with Jack's formula? Doubtful. However I essentially switch the base nutes of PBP with GH and omit Molasses to fill my res when I do automated coco drain to waste or ebb 'n flow (I don't add the Roots Excel or Great White to my res, but rather hand water periodically). I could prob use Jack's formula in this situation. Also, I can see where Fat Man is saying fulvic and humic acids are a fad if you're using chelated nutes though... As for the Under Current, I'm using the most simple regiment of DM Gold parts A and B, along with a bit of CalMag, Roots Excel, and AquaShield... I wouldn't be comfortable using Jacks in the UC as I go 30 days without a res change... I've been practicing top offs for the last year in my ebb 'n flow to prepare me for the UC...

Well, that was a lot to write on my iPhone, but the bottom line for me is that I tend to push my plants at certain points to see how far I can push them... I want happy, but not complacent plants... I want plants that seem to be more developed than they would be naturally content being... I flush for several weeks and have clean burning nugs that leave the white ash in the bowl without and popping or fizzing... Maybe we need to have a smoke-off... :giggle

 

[Snowblind]

Shady, thanks for the iphone reply and I hope a few others will join in in time in this little talk. You could in fact use Jacks in a Coco DTW setting, and in fact that is a great application of the formula. The guy I learned about this stuff from was doing DTW in Coco.

Because Im not doing DTW (im forced to recirculate) and im feeding at a 2.88-1-4.13 ratio I need to do frequent reso changes. I find that changing the barrel reso for the buckets is very easy compaired to the flat floor reso for my tables.

The ph swings are a pain though, although I am very detailed and spend a lot of time with my plants so staying on top of the ph is not a big issue and is in fact fun. Using the nutrient calculator you can even figure out what the ppm of GH ph down and technoflora ph down are to see how it changes your overall ppm and elemental ratios.......

Im starting to use sulfuric acid as my ph down........as often I dont want to add any additional N or P to my formula.

Of all the strains that I have grown I can say the chem family does need more Magnesium then others. Not more calcium! On a side note I hate that people confuse Cal-Mag the product with what they call a cal-mag deficiency. They are two seperate deficiencies often not related to each other and occuring at different stages of growth. I add Mg with epson salt which also adds a little sulfur. My bay area tap water adds a touch of calcium.

My StarDawgs from JJ and TopDawg are hungry from birth and I believe tissue sample would show the need for added elements!


You run the Jacks at 75% strength, if you wish to push and dont see leaf curl, then its easy to maintain the ratio and mix a little stronger solution. You dont want to push to much with the N however, and one of the first signs of this would be the dreaded claw look that leaves get. A sure sign of too much N. I dont need to push my K ever really because im feeding my plants K at a 4.13 to 1 ratio K to P ratio! You know how I feel about feeding too much P!


In the picture of the buckets above the plants are so crazy healthy is almost weird. They are green pretty much to the tips of the leaves from the top of the plant to the bottom. Those tips are the start of your plants conversation with you about whats going on. The first signs of budding were a mere 7 days into the flip. Most of my grows I felt the plants were healthy, but not like this. I cant even pull a leaf off of the plant as the plants tissue is so strong. No crisp fragile leaves here! I did not understand my ppm breakdown so I was unable to really understand what I was doing or even feeding the plants.

Shady what is the elemental breakdown of your feed for you plants. I will try help you figure it out. I might need your help with some of the products information that you use, however, we can figure out your feeds and what they translate into in terms of elemental ppm! Let me know if you want to figure it out!

 

[Darth Fader]

Great thread Snowblind. I have a good bud running the Jacks right now & some peeps @ icm_ag as well. They're kicking ass too. Looks like i'll have to order some. It's confusing how many variants they have though ...

I'm trying to use up all my bottles at the moment but if I were to apply logic I'd just toss 'em. Why am I so stubborn that I want to fight through non-ideal grows when I can get on the path of the righteous buds now? It's not like I'm saving money. Part of the human condition I suppose - LOL.

 

[GET MO]

Daaaaaamnnn!!!!! major props yo, are these seeds extinct? I wanna run this right now.

 

[Snowblind]

I ended up sending cuts of the 2 phenos I had up to Northern Cali. The grower up there turned the cuts into many, many clones and is growing this stuff outdoors over the summer. I will try to get some pictures of some of the plants........they are already very, very big!

The one pheno that I completed was a great smoking plant although I found it to be a small yielder. The resin was crazy. The smoke tasted a lot like Jack Herrer....almost like Trainwreck in fact. I believe I took some pictures of the last buds before I smoked them. I will try and find those budshots. Although the plant did not yield quite what I was looking for, I feel that I could do a better job and produce bigger buds. It will be interesting to see how my friends outdoor Sannies turn out. He had a least 24 large plants, 12 of each pheno all already 3 or 4 feet tall.....let me see if I can find some budshots.......

Get Mo I dont think the seeds are around anymore....

Here are a couple of budshots. By the time I took these pictures these were the last buds I had left...sorry about the poor quality pictures. The nugs were very dense. Minty/pine/pinsol flavors.....a good clean high...did not feel super couch-locky at all so I guess I felt high rather than stoned......

 

[Thcinc]

Should be good now!

Looks good now, even better in a few weeks I'm sure!

 

[Crush]

They look picked too soon..

 

[Snowblind]

I had to pick them early, 2 to 3 weeks!


I talk about it in the thread.

 

[GET MO]

found out i got a 10 pack uh these while lookin through my seeds..... OOHHHHHH YEAAAAHHHHHHH.

 

[HeLLMuTT]

I knew these would be awesome. I got a pack too... I'll get to em at some point lol!

Sup Snowblind how ya doing brother?

 

[Snowblind]

I knew these would be awesome. I got a pack too... I'll get to em at some point lol!

Sup Snowblind how ya doing brother?

I am well. Hope you are too!

Man I wanted to meet up with you at the cup!!! One of the few things I should have planned a little better. You are always killing it.


Def some killer phenos to be found in this cross! I didnt do it justice or take it long enough. Pop those beans if you guys got them. keep in mind there are no more of these seeds. Once they are gone they are gone.

 

[GreenMercy]

Please forgive my ADD/ADHD, even having scanned this entire thread multiple times I am not sure I got this right; Am I to understand that you completed this entire grow, start to finish, using only Jack's Hydro & Calcium Nitrate? There was no adjustment at all when transitioning from veg to flower?

 

[Snowblind]

I run Jacks at a higher ppm is all in flower! Its a lot to understand all this elemental ratio stuff I know. I didnt take the plant to a full 10+ weeks though, I chopped early because I had new stuff coming into my grow room. I cant grow stuff that takes so long because of pm issues. There is a detailed post on the cheap alternatives to overpriced nutes thread that I made explaining a lot. In flower I was and do run 3.0 grams of Jacks per gallon and 1.8 of Calcium Nitrate and 1 gram of epsoms per gallon of water.

Jacks Hydroponic with added Calcium Nitrate and Epsom salts is amazing!

Now im using Jacks new 1 part. You switch to a bloom booster for a few weeks in flower. Im figuring it all so far.

 

[TortureKill]

Great grow Snowblind. Im confident you will get your nute formula dialed. Keep doing what your doing bro. Mad respect!