Seal fiber pots with plastic bags to control indoor humidity ?

Hello all,i hope everybody reading this ,is really well !!

So ,Growdudes ,
I am trying to control the ambience environment and seal my bedroom with my tents so i can use my exhale co2 (Over 1500 ppms measured everymorning ) and use it with the summer days hot temperatures for faster metabolism instead of killing my plants with a minimal electricity cost .(airconditioner and dehumidifier available)

I ve seen some cultivating with mushrooms in topsoil and waterfeed from the bottom to preserve the moisture into the pots .
I am trying to control ambience moisture ,to save electricity costs and plastic bags seal ,seems a fair solution .
Do you think this is a good idea if being carefull with overwatering ?
What about air ? Will small amount of waterings do the trick and let the roots breath ?
Plants are 2 months in veg and going well with many tops and going really bushy .
My soil mix is 30% coco ,35% perlite+stones +35% rabbit manure & stuff
I foliar Kelp ,calmag ,triacontanol and silica with water foliars in between and i am using not tοo intense,cob leds

As i see VapourPressureDeficit ,is ok for 27 C -30 C ,with humidity 70-85%
But what about into the soil ? Any danger for molds ?
Any thoughts are wellcome ,

Have a great summer and harvests !!

873608
 
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Jimster

Supporter
Supporter
I'm way out of my league here, since I grow in Promix and not hydro, but sealing something in a plastic bag is going to keep humidity levels near 100%, and unless you have some sort of air replenishment system, I think the CO2 and O2 swings from a sealed bag could be toxic in some cases. When you mentioned exhaled CO2 every morning, are you referring to your own breath? Keep in mind that plants use O2 during periods of no light... the opposite of what they do during daylight. Perhaps I misunderstood your question because I'm so inexperienced with hydro, but I DO have a few years of growing under my belt and can help out at times.
 
I'm way out of my league here, since I grow in Promix and not hydro, but sealing something in a plastic bag is going to keep humidity levels near 100%, and unless you have some sort of air replenishment system, I think the CO2 and O2 swings from a sealed bag could be toxic in some cases. When you mentioned exhaled CO2 every morning, are you referring to your own breath? Keep in mind that plants use O2 during periods of no light... the opposite of what they do during daylight. Perhaps I misunderstood your question because I'm so inexperienced with hydro, but I DO have a few years of growing under my belt and can help out at times.
Thank you for your comment .
It is a organic /coco mix with plenty of aeriation .
As far as i research plants use CO2 24h/day and i have tested my breath's CO2 in previous grows ,i.e. i have yieled 140g dry amnesia haze in a 40cmx40cm tent with just coco /perlite and nutes .I have no questions about that ,i ve seen it working .
My main question is about the pot sealing.
Lets say its not 100% sealed amd some moisture escapes,no problem here .
Will it be any problem to the roots since the dry/wet conditions are gonna be delayed?
Lets say , now i water every 2-3 days and i am planning to seal enough,so i will have to water every 5-6 days
Will this reduce the ambience humidity to half or so ?

I imagine this like an ordinary plastic pot ,sealed on top ,why would this be different ?
 

Jimster

Supporter
Supporter
Thank you for your comment .
It is a organic /coco mix with plenty of aeriation .
As far as i research plants use CO2 24h/day and i have tested my breath's CO2 in previous grows ,i.e. i have yieled 140g dry amnesia haze in a 40cmx40cm tent with just coco /perlite and nutes .I have no questions about that ,i ve seen it working .
My main question is about the pot sealing.
Lets say its not 100% sealed amd some moisture escapes,no problem here .
Will it be any problem to the roots since the dry/wet conditions are gonna be delayed?
Lets say , now i water every 2-3 days and i am planning to seal enough,so i will have to water every 5-6 days
Will this reduce the ambience humidity to half or so ?

I imagine this like an ordinary plastic pot ,sealed on top ,why would this be different ?
You seem to have a decent handle on most aspects of your grow. I assume that you are only speaking of putting the pots themselves (and not the entire plant) in a bag. If the water levels are watched VERY carefully, it might be doable, although most of the water leaves via the plant and not the root structure. If the roots are sealed in a plastic bag, I don't know if they would get enough oxygen, since it would be used up by the roots fairly quickly. Too much water sounds like the biggest issue. If this is your 1st attempt at something like this, I would try it on a single trial plant and see how it works out. I prefer to grow with few restrictions and usually water a gallon or more daily when things are flowering. I know I would quickly have problems if I sealed up my buckets/containers, but I'm used to doing the same thing for decades and perhaps this would work better for you and your system/situation.
On a side note, in your sealed room, what is the CO2 reading in the room in general, not including the air that you exhaled on the meter? 1500 ppm in a sealed room from one person is pretty high. Not bad at all for the plants, but pretty high in general.
 
1 plants dont use co2 24hrs a day. They ONLY use co2 during lights on

2 your exhale bag will not and possible can not emmit 1400ppm in any room larger than a 2'x2' sealed cooler.

3 do not wrap your pots in a plastic bag. The root zone needs to breathe
You seem to have a decent handle on most aspects of your grow. I assume that you are only speaking of putting the pots themselves (and not the entire plant) in a bag. If the water levels are watched VERY carefully, it might be doable, although most of the water leaves via the plant and not the root structure. If the roots are sealed in a plastic bag, I don't know if they would get enough oxygen, since it would be used up by the roots fairly quickly. Too much water sounds like the biggest issue. If this is your 1st attempt at something like this, I would try it on a single trial plant and see how it works out. I prefer to grow with few restrictions and usually water a gallon or more daily when things are flowering. I know I would quickly have problems if I sealed up my buckets/containers, but I'm used to doing the same thing for decades and perhaps this would work better for you and your system/situation.
On a side note, in your sealed room, what is the CO2 reading in the room in general, not including the air that you exhaled on the meter? 1500 ppm in a sealed room from one person is pretty high. Not bad at all for the plants, but pretty high in general.
Sealing a plant in a bag made me lol bad <3 imagine that !
If the room is open 450-550 ,if doors and windows are closed when i wake up in the morning it could pass 2200 ppm ,so i have plenty co2 , to control for the day .
I watered the half of my plants earlier and the ambience humidity rised to 75% but into the sweetspot of VPD ,so ,i decided not to seal and not to water both tents the same day .
So i will just try to keep flowering temp 28.5C or lower ,veg 27.5 C ,inside the VPD ,to absorb the Co2 inj higher temps , and use the air conditioner to fix it when it goes out .
I also foliar silica once a week to promote sturdiness so plants can stand the heat and pressure of their artificial summer a bit more
Thank you pals ,your thoughts are appriciated
love
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
I don't know what lights you use but I think your humidity is a bit high. You need to calculate leaf temps in order to use it properly. I also don't know what stage of growth you are in. Also idk where everyone keeps getting higher temps are better with co2. I don't really feel this is the case. While CO2 does allow the use of higher temps with lower humidity I have seen nothing other than bro science to say that higher temps are better. Using CO2 without adequate lighting is an absolute waste so I'm not sure what your running but you need a pretty dam strong light to take advantage of it.

Like was said plants only benefit from higher CO2 when the lights are on.
 
I mean specifics aside, just go to home depot and look at those clay planter style things, they are a sealed plastic/clay pot on all sides, with an optional unplug drain. Really growing in sealed was a big part of organic thinking online around 2000-2010, where that one dude 3LB or 2LB or whatever from I forget which forums was using 20-30 gallon sealed pots with no holes and people were acting like he was some kind of organic growing jesus. People were saying you want to use R/O water for that which I never had much luck with and seemed like a waste unless you were also using the waste the water.

Your particular mix might need to drain off a bit with how rich that bunny manure can be, especially if its alphafa fed bunnies lol...but overall you could at least try, just need to be conscientiousness about maintaining the proper moisture levels as you mentioned, which would depend on your pot size.

In general if you keep your temps above 80 you dont need to worry about bud rot from too much humidity, but I have caught bud rot from using swamp coolers and getting hit with a couple weeks of cold wet weather at the wrong time, so in general I don't like doing too high a humidity later in flower but there needs to be a balance for perpetual. Humidity is also a nice temperature buffer as the temps rise the humidity drops so it somewhat offsets the negative effects of a very hot day.

I am very interested in using mushrooms as a cover crop, do you have a place for information on this? Most of the leads I have found is that its better to grow them separately, but I haven't seen any definitive information. You might be able to replace your exhale bag with a mushroom cover crop although I am not sure how effective it would be, maybe only be producing during fruiting.
 
I don't know what lights you use but I think your humidity is a bit high. You need to calculate leaf temps in order to use it properly. I also don't know what stage of growth you are in. Also idk where everyone keeps getting higher temps are better with co2. I don't really feel this is the case. While CO2 does allow the use of higher temps with lower humidity I have seen nothing other than bro science to say that higher temps are better. Using CO2 without adequate lighting is an absolute waste so I'm not sure what your running but you need a pretty dam strong light to take advantage of it.

Like was said plants only benefit from higher CO2 when the lights are on.
I was reffering to leaf temps ,thank you for noticing that .I run 100w cob led and a smaller led 40cm from the canopy in a 90x50x170 tent that can produce over 30.000 lumels (no par meter available)
I also do not use any co2 bags ,my breath produces just enough .
I saw a youtube video of a outdoor farmer that breeds mycelium on topsoil for synergy with the roots ,sealed and feed from the bottom ,no other info ,sorry.
Thank you forsharing your thoughts ,appriciated ,mushroom cultivation will be a winwin,i have some mycelium spores but i did not use em lol
 
Humidity is caused by healthy plants transpiring. As long as you have healthy and rapidly growing plants you will need to find a way to deal with humidity

Sealing it in a bag ain't it, chief.
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
I was reffering to leaf temps ,thank you for noticing that .I run 100w cob led and a smaller led 40cm from the canopy in a 90x50x170 tent that can produce over 30.000 lumels (no par meter available)
I also do not use any co2 bags ,my breath produces just enough .
I saw a youtube video of a outdoor farmer that breeds mycelium on topsoil for synergy with the roots ,sealed and feed from the bottom ,no other info ,sorry.
Thank you forsharing your thoughts ,appriciated ,mushroom cultivation will be a winwin,i have some mycelium spores but i did not use em lol
It may seem like I'm trying to rain on your parade but that's not my intention if that's how it comes across. I'm just trying to give you accurate information since the interwebs is filled with good and bad info. With a 100watt cob you won't see any benefit of CO2 enrichment.

How are you taking you leaf temps? Eg. What equipment?

The reason I ask is often people refer to ambient temps as leaf temps based on where they put there thermometer.

75F is optimal leaf temp for photosynthesis and have you leaf temps 10F over that is likely to have a negative impact. With a 100w cob that provides no IR spectrum your leaf temps will be in my experience about 5-8F (depending on fan placement even up to 10F from forced evaporative cooling) cooler than canopy temps which leads to believe your mixing the 2 up. If your not that means your ambient temps would be up to 95F.
 
[QUOTE = "pitchdope, μήνυμα: 2257600, μέλος: 97945"]
Αναφέρομαι στα φύλλα, ευχαριστώ που παρατηρήσατε ότι τρέχω 100w cob led και μικρότερο οδήγησε 40cm από το θόλο σε 90x50x170 σκηνή που μπορεί να παράγει πάνω από 30.000 lumels (δεν υπάρχει μετρητής par)
Επίσης, δεν χρησιμοποιώ τσάντες co2, η αναπνοή μου παράγει αρκετά.
Είδα ένα βίντεο του Youtube ενός υπαίθριου αγρότη που αναπαράγει μυκήλιο σε φυτικά εδάφη για συνέργεια με τις ρίζες, σφραγισμένο και ζωοτροφές από το κάτω μέρος, καμία άλλη πληροφορία, συγγνώμη.
Σας ευχαριστώ για την ανταλλαγή σκέψεών σας, appriciated, καλλιέργεια μανιταριών θα είναι winwin, έχω κάποια σπόρια μυκήλιος, αλλά δεν χρησιμοποίησα em lol
[/ΠΑΡΑΘΕΤΩ, ΑΝΑΦΟΡΑ]
It may seem like I'm trying to rain on your parade but that's not my intention if that's how it comes across. I'm just trying to give you accurate information since the interwebs is filled with good and bad info. With a 100watt cob you won't see any benefit of CO2 enrichment.

How are you taking you leaf temps? Eg. What equipment?

The reason I ask is often people refer to ambient temps as leaf temps based on where they put there thermometer.

75F is optimal leaf temp for photosynthesis and have you leaf temps 10F over that is likely to have a negative impact. With a 100w cob that provides no IR spectrum your leaf temps will be in my experience about 5-8F (depending on fan placement even up to 10F from forced evaporative cooling) cooler than canopy temps which leads to believe your mixing the 2 up. If your not that means your ambient temps would be up to 95F.
100w cob i.e. got me 130g of phat dry buds of a small amnesia haze plant ,very close to the lights (40x40 tent ,temp 82.5 , 30.000 lum average,no par meter availabe)
Its unquestionable that C02 was the critical factor for this nice yield ,i know that 1500 ppms have worked with my previous tiny setup ,every bud was clearly phatter .
I am taking leaf temp with alaser pointer thermometer (seems accurate) and i also supply with 20w of uv .
I am just trying now to rise their tolerance to heat and humidity because of the cost ,but without taking any serius risk for the plants .
If leaf temp tolerance can be rised to 82 instead of 75,and ambience humidity 65-75% , this would be a serious money saving in my situation.
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
[QUOTE = "pitchdope, μήνυμα: 2257600, μέλος: 97945"]
Αναφέρομαι στα φύλλα, ευχαριστώ που παρατηρήσατε ότι τρέχω 100w cob led και μικρότερο οδήγησε 40cm από το θόλο σε 90x50x170 σκηνή που μπορεί να παράγει πάνω από 30.000 lumels (δεν υπάρχει μετρητής par)
Επίσης, δεν χρησιμοποιώ τσάντες co2, η αναπνοή μου παράγει αρκετά.
Είδα ένα βίντεο του Youtube ενός υπαίθριου αγρότη που αναπαράγει μυκήλιο σε φυτικά εδάφη για συνέργεια με τις ρίζες, σφραγισμένο και ζωοτροφές από το κάτω μέρος, καμία άλλη πληροφορία, συγγνώμη.
Σας ευχαριστώ για την ανταλλαγή σκέψεών σας, appriciated, καλλιέργεια μανιταριών θα είναι winwin, έχω κάποια σπόρια μυκήλιος, αλλά δεν χρησιμοποίησα em lol
[/ΠΑΡΑΘΕΤΩ, ΑΝΑΦΟΡΑ]

100w cob i.e. got me 130g of phat dry buds of a small amnesia haze plant ,very close to the lights (40x40 tent ,temp 82.5 , 30.000 lum average,no par meter availabe)
Its unquestionable that C02 was the critical factor for this nice yield ,i know that 1500 ppms have worked with my previous tiny setup ,every bud was clearly phatter .
I am taking leaf temp with alaser pointer thermometer (seems accurate) and i also supply with 20w of uv .
I am just trying now to rise their tolerance to heat and humidity because of the cost ,but without taking any serius risk for the plants .
If leaf temp tolerance can be rised to 82 instead of 75,and ambience humidity 65-75% , this would be a serious money saving in my situation.
We can agree to disagree on the CO2. 82 is doable.

While plants adapt they don't adapt that fast. And without a control group I don't think you can say it was due to increased CO2 levels. Who knows maybe you lacked adequate CO2 before. Some strains do better in the heat so maybe that's why you are not seeing issues. 82F leaf temps are doable but that does not make them ideal.

So your room temps are approx. 90-96F?

Have any pics of the plants?
 
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Humidity is caused by healthy plants transpiring. As long as you have healthy and rapidly growing plants you will need to find a way to deal with humidity

Sealing it in a bag ain't it, chief.
There is a lot of water escaping in fiber pots ,not only traspiration ,you can see that even if only cover the topsoil .Sealing was a thought to avoid trasnplanting to plastic pots just not to water as often and control humidity easier
 
We can agree to disagree on the CO2. 82 is doable.

While plants adapt they don't adapt that fast. And without a control group I don't think you can say it was due to increased CO2 levels. Who knows maybe you lacked adequate CO2 before. Some strains do better in the heat so maybe that's why you are not seeing issues. 82F leaf temps are doable but that does not make them ideal.

So your room temps are approx. 90-96F?

Have any pics of the plants?
There is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .
I am targeting 79F- 80.5F ambience temps ,so on leaf is about 82 or less , if i am going more intense with lights .
I also have3 small blower fans remove the heat,fast
Ok,deal with the control plants if you want to be sure about it ,
but I am still wondering why you insist that the 100w cannot be used eccifient for the co2 to be absorved ,since is hitting hard 40cm from the canopy or less .
This is my veg with lst'd girls and 2 royal gorilla clones looking smiley within this temp range ,i had a bit nitrogen toxicity at first ,
because even if i have a rich soil with em1 microbes ,molases etc so only water needed,instead i kept feeding with biocanna also .Some white stigmas are from foliar .
873765
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
There is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .
I am targeting 79F- 80.5F ambience temps ,so on leaf is about 82 or less , if i am going more intense with lights .
I also have3 small blower fans remove the heat,fast
Ok,deal with the control plants if you want to be sure about it ,
but I am still wondering why you insist that the 100w cannot be used eccifient for the co2 to be absorved ,since is hitting hard 40cm from the canopy or less .
This is my veg with lst'd girls and 2 royal gorilla clones looking smiley within this temp range ,i had a bit nitrogen toxicity at first ,
because even if i have a rich soil with em1 microbes ,molases etc so only water needed,instead i kept feeding with biocanna also .Some white stigmas are from foliar .
View attachment 873765
Lead temps in almost all situations will be cooler than ambient temps. So I'm not sure how you plan to do that or maybe one of your thermometers is out of calibration.

If you are shooting for 79-82 ambient temps you are likely going to be in the sweet spot with leaf temps about 74-77F.

You are right 100w cob cover a 1x2 area would benefit from CO2 I spoke before knowing your grow space but am still not clear on it.
 
I don't know what lights you use but I think your humidity is a bit high. You need to calculate leaf temps in order to use it properly. I also don't know what stage of growth you are in. Also idk where everyone keeps getting higher temps are better with co2. I don't really feel this is the case. While CO2 does allow the use of higher temps with lower humidity I have seen nothing other than bro science to say that higher temps are better. Using CO2 without adequate lighting is an absolute waste so I'm not sure what your running but you need a pretty dam strong light to take advantage of it.

Like was said plants only benefit from higher CO2 when the lights are on.
I think it’s because when a lot of people are in the room a lot of co2 comes out and it gets hot. Same with the whole global warming situation about co2 in our atmosphere hot. Not necessarily the same thing in a household but I don’t think people understand the difference
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
There is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .
I am targeting 79F- 80.5F ambience temps ,so on leaf is about 82 or less , if i am going more intense with lights .
I also have3 small blower fans remove the heat,fast
Ok,deal with the control plants if you want to be sure about it ,
but I am still wondering why you insist that the 100w cannot be used eccifient for the co2 to be absorved ,since is hitting hard 40cm from the canopy or less .
This is my veg with lst'd girls and 2 royal gorilla clones looking smiley within this temp range ,i had a bit nitrogen toxicity at first ,
because even if i have a rich soil with em1 microbes ,molases etc so only water needed,instead i kept feeding with biocanna also .Some white stigmas are from foliar .
View attachment 873765
Plants look good
 
100w light and you pulled 130 grams dry.
Must be that unicorn strain.
I am not here to be the clever guy ,dude.If i wanted to lie i wouldnt be asking for opinions .
it was one single plant in 40x40 with a 100w cob led running more than 40.000 lumens ,30cm over the stems with 1500ppm co2 in coco perlite /mycos and with canna nutes and boosters .
It was like frying popcorn the 30 cm distance , but with the diesel amnesiahase taste .
 
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