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pitchdope
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Thank you for your comment .I'm way out of my league here, since I grow in Promix and not hydro, but sealing something in a plastic bag is going to keep humidity levels near 100%, and unless you have some sort of air replenishment system, I think the CO2 and O2 swings from a sealed bag could be toxic in some cases. When you mentioned exhaled CO2 every morning, are you referring to your own breath? Keep in mind that plants use O2 during periods of no light... the opposite of what they do during daylight. Perhaps I misunderstood your question because I'm so inexperienced with hydro, but I DO have a few years of growing under my belt and can help out at times.
You seem to have a decent handle on most aspects of your grow. I assume that you are only speaking of putting the pots themselves (and not the entire plant) in a bag. If the water levels are watched VERY carefully, it might be doable, although most of the water leaves via the plant and not the root structure. If the roots are sealed in a plastic bag, I don't know if they would get enough oxygen, since it would be used up by the roots fairly quickly. Too much water sounds like the biggest issue. If this is your 1st attempt at something like this, I would try it on a single trial plant and see how it works out. I prefer to grow with few restrictions and usually water a gallon or more daily when things are flowering. I know I would quickly have problems if I sealed up my buckets/containers, but I'm used to doing the same thing for decades and perhaps this would work better for you and your system/situation.Thank you for your comment .
It is a organic /coco mix with plenty of aeriation .
As far as i research plants use CO2 24h/day and i have tested my breath's CO2 in previous grows ,i.e. i have yieled 140g dry amnesia haze in a 40cmx40cm tent with just coco /perlite and nutes .I have no questions about that ,i ve seen it working .
My main question is about the pot sealing.
Lets say its not 100% sealed amd some moisture escapes,no problem here .
Will it be any problem to the roots since the dry/wet conditions are gonna be delayed?
Lets say , now i water every 2-3 days and i am planning to seal enough,so i will have to water every 5-6 days
Will this reduce the ambience humidity to half or so ?
I imagine this like an ordinary plastic pot ,sealed on top ,why would this be different ?
1 plants dont use co2 24hrs a day. They ONLY use co2 during lights on
2 your exhale bag will not and possible can not emmit 1400ppm in any room larger than a 2'x2' sealed cooler.
3 do not wrap your pots in a plastic bag. The root zone needs to breathe
You seem to have a decent handle on most aspects of your grow. I assume that you are only speaking of putting the pots themselves (and not the entire plant) in a bag. If the water levels are watched VERY carefully, it might be doable, although most of the water leaves via the plant and not the root structure. If the roots are sealed in a plastic bag, I don't know if they would get enough oxygen, since it would be used up by the roots fairly quickly. Too much water sounds like the biggest issue. If this is your 1st attempt at something like this, I would try it on a single trial plant and see how it works out. I prefer to grow with few restrictions and usually water a gallon or more daily when things are flowering. I know I would quickly have problems if I sealed up my buckets/containers, but I'm used to doing the same thing for decades and perhaps this would work better for you and your system/situation.
On a side note, in your sealed room, what is the CO2 reading in the room in general, not including the air that you exhaled on the meter? 1500 ppm in a sealed room from one person is pretty high. Not bad at all for the plants, but pretty high in general.
I was reffering to leaf temps ,thank you for noticing that .I run 100w cob led and a smaller led 40cm from the canopy in a 90x50x170 tent that can produce over 30.000 lumels (no par meter available)I don't know what lights you use but I think your humidity is a bit high. You need to calculate leaf temps in order to use it properly. I also don't know what stage of growth you are in. Also idk where everyone keeps getting higher temps are better with co2. I don't really feel this is the case. While CO2 does allow the use of higher temps with lower humidity I have seen nothing other than bro science to say that higher temps are better. Using CO2 without adequate lighting is an absolute waste so I'm not sure what your running but you need a pretty dam strong light to take advantage of it.
Like was said plants only benefit from higher CO2 when the lights are on.
It may seem like I'm trying to rain on your parade but that's not my intention if that's how it comes across. I'm just trying to give you accurate information since the interwebs is filled with good and bad info. With a 100watt cob you won't see any benefit of CO2 enrichment.I was reffering to leaf temps ,thank you for noticing that .I run 100w cob led and a smaller led 40cm from the canopy in a 90x50x170 tent that can produce over 30.000 lumels (no par meter available)
I also do not use any co2 bags ,my breath produces just enough .
I saw a youtube video of a outdoor farmer that breeds mycelium on topsoil for synergy with the roots ,sealed and feed from the bottom ,no other info ,sorry.
Thank you forsharing your thoughts ,appriciated ,mushroom cultivation will be a winwin,i have some mycelium spores but i did not use em lol
100w cob i.e. got me 130g of phat dry buds of a small amnesia haze plant ,very close to the lights (40x40 tent ,temp 82.5 , 30.000 lum average,no par meter availabe)It may seem like I'm trying to rain on your parade but that's not my intention if that's how it comes across. I'm just trying to give you accurate information since the interwebs is filled with good and bad info. With a 100watt cob you won't see any benefit of CO2 enrichment.
How are you taking you leaf temps? Eg. What equipment?
The reason I ask is often people refer to ambient temps as leaf temps based on where they put there thermometer.
75F is optimal leaf temp for photosynthesis and have you leaf temps 10F over that is likely to have a negative impact. With a 100w cob that provides no IR spectrum your leaf temps will be in my experience about 5-8F (depending on fan placement even up to 10F from forced evaporative cooling) cooler than canopy temps which leads to believe your mixing the 2 up. If your not that means your ambient temps would be up to 95F.
We can agree to disagree on the CO2. 82 is doable.[QUOTE = "pitchdope, μήνυμα: 2257600, μέλος: 97945"]
Αναφέρομαι στα φύλλα, ευχαριστώ που παρατηρήσατε ότι τρέχω 100w cob led και μικρότερο οδήγησε 40cm από το θόλο σε 90x50x170 σκηνή που μπορεί να παράγει πάνω από 30.000 lumels (δεν υπάρχει μετρητής par)
Επίσης, δεν χρησιμοποιώ τσάντες co2, η αναπνοή μου παράγει αρκετά.
Είδα ένα βίντεο του Youtube ενός υπαίθριου αγρότη που αναπαράγει μυκήλιο σε φυτικά εδάφη για συνέργεια με τις ρίζες, σφραγισμένο και ζωοτροφές από το κάτω μέρος, καμία άλλη πληροφορία, συγγνώμη.
Σας ευχαριστώ για την ανταλλαγή σκέψεών σας, appriciated, καλλιέργεια μανιταριών θα είναι winwin, έχω κάποια σπόρια μυκήλιος, αλλά δεν χρησιμοποίησα em lol
[/ΠΑΡΑΘΕΤΩ, ΑΝΑΦΟΡΑ]
100w cob i.e. got me 130g of phat dry buds of a small amnesia haze plant ,very close to the lights (40x40 tent ,temp 82.5 , 30.000 lum average,no par meter availabe)
Its unquestionable that C02 was the critical factor for this nice yield ,i know that 1500 ppms have worked with my previous tiny setup ,every bud was clearly phatter .
I am taking leaf temp with alaser pointer thermometer (seems accurate) and i also supply with 20w of uv .
I am just trying now to rise their tolerance to heat and humidity because of the cost ,but without taking any serius risk for the plants .
If leaf temp tolerance can be rised to 82 instead of 75,and ambience humidity 65-75% , this would be a serious money saving in my situation.
There is a lot of water escaping in fiber pots ,not only traspiration ,you can see that even if only cover the topsoil .Sealing was a thought to avoid trasnplanting to plastic pots just not to water as often and control humidity easierHumidity is caused by healthy plants transpiring. As long as you have healthy and rapidly growing plants you will need to find a way to deal with humidity
Sealing it in a bag ain't it, chief.
There is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .We can agree to disagree on the CO2. 82 is doable.
While plants adapt they don't adapt that fast. And without a control group I don't think you can say it was due to increased CO2 levels. Who knows maybe you lacked adequate CO2 before. Some strains do better in the heat so maybe that's why you are not seeing issues. 82F leaf temps are doable but that does not make them ideal.
So your room temps are approx. 90-96F?
Have any pics of the plants?
Lead temps in almost all situations will be cooler than ambient temps. So I'm not sure how you plan to do that or maybe one of your thermometers is out of calibration.There is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .
I am targeting 79F- 80.5F ambience temps ,so on leaf is about 82 or less , if i am going more intense with lights .
I also have3 small blower fans remove the heat,fast
Ok,deal with the control plants if you want to be sure about it ,
but I am still wondering why you insist that the 100w cannot be used eccifient for the co2 to be absorved ,since is hitting hard 40cm from the canopy or less .
This is my veg with lst'd girls and 2 royal gorilla clones looking smiley within this temp range ,i had a bit nitrogen toxicity at first ,
because even if i have a rich soil with em1 microbes ,molases etc so only water needed,instead i kept feeding with biocanna also .Some white stigmas are from foliar .
View attachment 873765
I think it’s because when a lot of people are in the room a lot of co2 comes out and it gets hot. Same with the whole global warming situation about co2 in our atmosphere hot. Not necessarily the same thing in a household but I don’t think people understand the differenceI don't know what lights you use but I think your humidity is a bit high. You need to calculate leaf temps in order to use it properly. I also don't know what stage of growth you are in. Also idk where everyone keeps getting higher temps are better with co2. I don't really feel this is the case. While CO2 does allow the use of higher temps with lower humidity I have seen nothing other than bro science to say that higher temps are better. Using CO2 without adequate lighting is an absolute waste so I'm not sure what your running but you need a pretty dam strong light to take advantage of it.
Like was said plants only benefit from higher CO2 when the lights are on.
Plants look goodThere is nothing much to see now i just mooved two gorillas to the flowering tent .
I am targeting 79F- 80.5F ambience temps ,so on leaf is about 82 or less , if i am going more intense with lights .
I also have3 small blower fans remove the heat,fast
Ok,deal with the control plants if you want to be sure about it ,
but I am still wondering why you insist that the 100w cannot be used eccifient for the co2 to be absorved ,since is hitting hard 40cm from the canopy or less .
This is my veg with lst'd girls and 2 royal gorilla clones looking smiley within this temp range ,i had a bit nitrogen toxicity at first ,
because even if i have a rich soil with em1 microbes ,molases etc so only water needed,instead i kept feeding with biocanna also .Some white stigmas are from foliar .
View attachment 873765
I am not here to be the clever guy ,dude.If i wanted to lie i wouldnt be asking for opinions .100w light and you pulled 130 grams dry.
Must be that unicorn strain.
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