Setting up DWC. What else do I need?

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CF89

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I’d like to get out of soil and into DWC. I am looking at this setup.

what else would I need?

I assume a proper ph meter. A water pump?

they just sit in a bucket of fertilizer water with an air stone? How do I know when they need to be fed?
 
Setting up dwc what else do i need
Setting up dwc what else do i need 2
Setting up dwc what else do i need 3
Oldguy71

Oldguy71

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I would ditch the top feed part. It’s good to have an air gap of 4-6” as long as the roots can still reach the nutrient solution. Top feeding reduces Oxygen to the roots above the solution and algae can grow if the top gets moist and exposed to light
 
tobh

tobh

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Agreed. This is like some kind of weird attempt at a hybrid DWC/RDWC setup. Ditch the top feed if you're going to do DWC. Also recommend a single plant per site. Too many horror stories around about what happens with two plants in one site.
 
TheBioMaster

TheBioMaster

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Yep, that water pump in the tank will generate lots of heat......and its not needed. Just raise water level until air bubbles splash bottom of net pot.....then lower the water level just a little when you see roots hitting the water. You want about a 2 inch air gap.

Separate the tanks as suggested as well.

Adding a epicenter and recirculation would be an upgrade from what you have now......makes system stability easier.
 
Oldguy71

Oldguy71

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Agreed. This is like some kind of weird attempt at a hybrid DWC/RDWC setup. Ditch the top feed if you're going to do DWC. Also recommend a single plant per site. Too many horror stories around about what happens with two plants in one site.
I was thinking it was a vertical nft/ dwc hybrid
 
CF89

CF89

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Yeah the top feed thing seems weird.

So basically. The plant sits in that pot. The roots dangle down and sit in a bucket of water with an air stone. That’s basically it?

Keep the water temp, ph, and nutrients happy and that’s it?
 
CF89

CF89

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What are enzymes and why do I need them?

ive heard things about algae on the lid?

How does feeding work? I feed to 1000 ppm (how many actually?) And then monitor it until it drops to 500 or whatever. Then replenish it back to 1000? How do I know how much to put?

Do I ever need to change the water?

What are optimal water temps and any other things I should know. Any surprises I may run into?

Is there such thing as too much air or water?
 
tobh

tobh

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What are enzymes and why do I need them?

ive heard things about algae on the lid?

How does feeding work? I feed to 1000 ppm (how many actually?) And then monitor it until it drops to 500 or whatever. Then replenish it back to 1000? How do I know how much to put?

Do I ever need to change the water?

What are optimal water temps and any other things I should know. Any surprises I may run into?

Is there such thing as too much air or water?

Enzymes helps organic matter break down faster. This is beneficial for removing dead root matter and also encourages healthier roots, which leads to better uptake of nutrients.

Feeding depends on stage of growth. Depending on your water source, starting at ~500 ppm is ideal. Slowly increase this by how the plants respond. You monitor for increase in EC (plants drank water) and pH (affected by various factors). You want to top off as water levels go down, and @Aqua Man has a great thread on how to do top ups effectively.

Reservoir change outs are a contested topic. Some growers run all the way through with never changing out, others do it weekly.

68F - 75F provide optimum dissolved oxygen levels. Higher than 75F contributes to the growth of pythium and other pathogens. Lower than 68F can slow down plant growth. It's a balancing act of maximum dissolved oxygen to volume of water for optimum plant growth and reduced pathogen risk.

There is no such thing as too much water or air. Nutrient solution will only hold so much dissolved oxygen.
 
Aqua Man

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Enzymes helps organic matter break down faster. This is beneficial for removing dead root matter and also encourages healthier roots, which leads to better uptake of nutrients.

Feeding depends on stage of growth. Depending on your water source, starting at ~500 ppm is ideal. Slowly increase this by how the plants respond. You monitor for increase in EC (plants drank water) and pH (affected by various factors). You want to top off as water levels go down, and @Aqua Man has a great thread on how to do top ups effectively.

Reservoir change outs are a contested topic. Some growers run all the way through with never changing out, others do it weekly.

68F - 75F provide optimum dissolved oxygen levels. Higher than 75F contributes to the growth of pythium and other pathogens. Lower than 68F can slow down plant growth. It's a balancing act of maximum dissolved oxygen to volume of water for optimum plant growth and reduced pathogen risk.

There is no such thing as too much water or air. Nutrient solution will only hold so much dissolved oxygen.
+1 on all of this.
 
CF89

CF89

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Wow thanks for that explanation. That’s awesome. Answers a lot.

are enzymes required? How do you know how much and when to use tbem?

68-75f wow that’s a very tight range. Especially in Canadian terms. 20-24c. Not much room for error there.

what are you guys using to monitor ec (also ppm right?) and ph? I feel like my $18 amazon specials won’t cut it.

so basically. The plant sits with its roots dangling in a bucket of water with an air stone. That’s it?

you monitor the water and check that it remains at a certain ppm every 12 or 24 hours and that’s it? How do I know, of my 11 bottles, what to add?

the water doesn’t really need to be recirculating or drained or any of that fancy stuff does it? It just sits and bubbles?. I’d like to start with one big plant in my 4x4 and go from there.
 
tobh

tobh

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Wow thanks for that explanation. That’s awesome. Answers a lot.

are enzymes required? How do you know how much and when to use tbem?

68-75f wow that’s a very tight range. Especially in Canadian terms. 20-24c. Not much room for error there.

what are you guys using to monitor ec (also ppm right?) and ph? I feel like my $18 amazon specials won’t cut it.

so basically. The plant sits with its roots dangling in a bucket of water with an air stone. That’s it?

you monitor the water and check that it remains at a certain ppm every 12 or 24 hours and that’s it? How do I know, of my 11 bottles, what to add?

the water doesn’t really need to be recirculating or drained or any of that fancy stuff does it? It just sits and bubbles?. I’d like to start with one big plant in my 4x4 and go from there.

You have a few options for how you run your res. Enzymes are not required, but they are very beneficial. You use them per the manufacturers recommendations. Some you can also run alongside peroxide, which will make a sterile res. You can also use them alongside hydroguard, which is a live res. I prefer sterile personally.

Don't get hung up too much on the res temps. I find this to be another highly contested subject. If you look at commercial scale veggie growers, they don't worry about their res temps too much. I consider as long as it's not over 75F or below 60F, I'm fine with it.

PPM = EC = TDS. There are various scales for the conversions, the most common being Hanna. I use a cheap amazon ppm and ph pen. I think I paid $25 for the pair. They do well enough. If you're super concerned, you can look into bluelab. They're pricey, but considered industry best.

Correct, the roots will be in the water with the air stone. Pretty simple.

I check my res's nightly. It's the most convenient time for me to do maintenance. As for knowing how much of what to add, you'll want to find that thread I mentioned previously from Aqua Man. You can't know for sure what the plant consumed, but you can replenish everything and watch for plant response. It'll tell you if you're having lock out or deficiencies.

You don't need to recirculate or anything. That's why DWC is considered one of the easiest entry level hydro configurations available. I'm sure you'll want to get into RDWC after this as you'll get fed up having to fight a bush for res maintenance ;)
 
CF89

CF89

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thats interesting that you use the amazon ph meter. I dont trust mine and it needs constant calibration and I just feel that its always off and never giving consistent numbers.

figuring out PPM seems extremely simple. im a numbers guy and love math. thats all easy stuff I can do in my head.


RDWC does seem tempting and im sure ill get into that within the first month anyways.


regarding size of reservoir... is there such thing as too big or too small? seems like most people use those totes from home depot, with an air stone and a mesh pot. done. thats it eh?
 
CF89

CF89

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so something like that. but with a different top feed instead maybe? is the water constantly circulating and the pump always running?
 
tobh

tobh

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Yeah, my pH meter is somewhat unreliable, but it's consistent enough, and my plants tell me what I need to know. Some day I'll shell out for a bluelab or build a sensor system myself (this is actually in the works, I'm a software engineer by trade), but for now a cheapo amazon meter does well enough.

The beauty of a bigger reservoir is swings are more gradual. It's easier to get it stable, for longer. Sure, there's a compromise (need more room for a bigger res) but temps/EC/pH all stay way more stable with more volume of solution.

That setup you pictured looks like a RDWC system. Yes, the water continuously circulates. If you want to see balls to the walls, big boy setups, look up Under Current. Pretty sure @Aqua Man used to run an absolute beast of a system. There's a thread here somewhere, from years back, that was an amazing built. That's going to be my next move, building a UC system.
 
tobh

tobh

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That's where I pulled the idea for my setup from. Apparently it's used by both commercial tomato and cucumber growers.
 
SaintsSamilia

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I'm guessing you want something like this for you dwc you can drip feed off a res if you want but I decided to do recirculating with waterfalls on mine instead of the dwc with Sideview for level just went the distance or am going ill be done in a day or so
 
tobh

tobh

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that's the way to do it right there. waterfalls or venturis are the bees knees. though, recirculating is also nice. i like your idea of sticking with doing manual change outs to gain appreciation for recirculating later. my systems now are literally over a decade of hand watering, hand mixing, daily back hurting labor.

going recirculated is like... getting an electronic ignition, fuel injected car after adjusting carbs and points for years.
 
CF89

CF89

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so what feeds those top black hoses? the pump in the reservoir? does this run 24/7? why?

then it gravity drains down to the reservior, so head pressure and heights are an issue here?

im scared of something leaking and making a total mess.
 

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