sixstring
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Yes,seems a bit pricey but maybe not for your area.good kit.
Yes,seems a bit pricey but maybe not for your area.good kit.Is this a good starter COB starter kit? I want something that works for flower and veg.
https://www.ebay.com/i/263529612106?chn=ps
With those high power qb324 I would use the 90 degree qb11 because of mounting height.cobs won't be needed in a 5x5 with that setup.cree 3590-2700k is my choice for cobs.
could you give me some pointers on turning this POS into an efficient light? The COBs are too close together and they’re outdated, I had to turn disconnect two of the 6 during veg because the inyensity of the light was too high. I’d like to replace the COBs bulbs themselves in this fixture with newer cree 3590s I think is the number, but what spectrum? Should I do a mix? 3500k and 3000k or mix in some 2700k? I’m a newb (obv) to the COB light game...and rn I feel like they are too close together to have lenses on them. They’re 7 inches apart on center...any more info needed lmk and as always, appreciate the help homieYes,seems a bit pricey but maybe not for your area.good kit.
could you give me some pointers on turning this POS into an efficient light? The COBs are too close together and they’re outdated, I had to turn disconnect two of the 6 during veg because the inyensity of the light was too high. I’d like to replace the COBs bulbs themselves in this fixture with newer cree 3590s I think is the number, but what spectrum? Should I do a mix? 3500k and 3000k or mix in some 2700k? I’m a newb (obv) to the COB light game...and rn I feel like they are too close together to have lenses on them. They’re 7 inches apart on center...any more info needed lmk and as always, appreciate the help homie View attachment 794575 View attachment 794576
It's the Chinese (Shenzhen Tech SunPlus LED) version of the Optic 6 light. Here's a link to exactly where I bought it. https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.1.5fc5663cfTcIRlWhat brand light is that and what's inside it for drivers and cobs? 7in on center does sound way too close.
Pics of the inside... it was too heavy to hold up during the light cycle so I’ll wait until nighty night and take it down to get some detailed specs on the drivers, etcWhat brand light is that and what's inside it for drivers and cobs? 7in on center does sound way too close.
My guess is the only thing you might be able to reuse is the power supply if it has the correct specs for the cobs you want. Maybe fans if they are appropriate.Pics of the inside... it was too heavy to hold up during the light cycle so I’ll wait until nighty night and take it down to get some detailed specs on the drivers, etc
Pics are on this post:
Brown Tips On 2 Day Old Seedlings...?
My guess is the only thing you might be able to reuse is the power supply if it has the correct specs for the cobs you want. Maybe fans if they are appropriate.
Dee
QB120's (50-60W per panel) don't need heat sinks and the QB132's (75W per panel) don't either. If you use the higher power panels (over $75w) you could use the heat sink if it is sufficient. Amazon has the QB120's for $124 for a set of 4 and $133 for a set of 4 each QB132's. I built one veg light from 6 each 120's that runs about 320 watts and I made a smaller tent light out of the other 2 (bought 2 sets of 4). The 132's are 2700K and 3500K and the 120's are 4000K. A single mean well supply could run 6 to 8 panels each. A nice light can be built for about $1 per watt.
Dee
The 132 makes a little more power than the 120 and yes the 132 has more LEDs.Nice info. I’m thinking seriously about getting 4 120s or 132s and using one in a 2x2x4 for seedlings and then two side by side (or even the remaining 3) for early to late veg in a taller tent. Would u suggest 120s or 132s for this...and what’s the diff? Just number of leds? Would the 132s work for seedlings better than the 120s? Thanks for ur help
R those FF trays? I've never seen that type.thanks yeah shes getting big,had to put a net over her this weekend :happy:
View attachment 786242
trays under the plants ? no, green cap on top of soil,yes floraflex large universal capR those FF trays? I've never seen that type.
Looks great man!
Ok looking at lights. Liking the quantum boards. I’m mainly about to see what is what with them. I see hlg qb 100 but coverage area is nothing for $150
Now I see a kit of 4 qb120 but no driver. Can I run em all from 1driver? If so which one? And there is no way to see the output of the models. What is better without a crazy tag on it. I want to start by saturating a 4x4area for flower. Once I run em I might fill 4x8 with them if they put out.
Ok thanks.I run 4 of the QB120's with a Mean Well 240-2100 (B or C) (in series), or 6 QB120's with a 320-2100 (B or C) (in series as well) both B and C versions are dimmable if I remember correctly but one is nicer since you can hook a potentiometer (I think the "B" version) to it for dimming (much easier than the screws inside the driver case). for a 4X4 you will need about 600 - 650 watts so 3 X 150W panels (like the QB288) or 9-12 of the QB120's. When I was running 4X4 I had 50 watts to the sq foot. 40-50 w to the sq foot is kind of a general goal.
Drivers first number is the total watts (and they are conservative so you always get more).
Drivers second number is either constant current value ie: 2100, 1750 etc
Drivers second number is sometimes constant Voltage value as in: 24, 36, 54 etc.
Drivers letter designations sometimes means terminal type, dimmable with pot or PWM control signal or adjustment screws inside the drive (have to reach in with a small straight balde drive): A, B, C etc.
Mean Well has spec. sheets for each wattage of driver with all the options etc. the spec sheets can be accessed either on Mean Wells site or on sites such as Digikey and so on.
Constant current/Constant voltage (like the -24 -36-54) are generally for wiring in parallel and the constant current ones like 1750 -2100 etc are meant to put out fixed current and therefore are typically wired in series.
The advantages of parallel are its low non-lethal voltage (under 60V) but if a light goes out all the energy goes to the others and could overdrive them (rare but possible)
The advantage of series wiring is if a LED panel or COB fails the others power down protecting them. The disadvantage is your often dealing with voltages over 100 VDC and higher which can be lethal. Cover all exposed connections on the fixture (precautions need to be taken but no big deal, just common sense).
Just for general info, I typically see these fixtures come out to about $1.25 per watt to DIY. I have done it for as little as $1.00 per watt by scrounging around for surplus materials for the build like aluminum angle etc for the framing. The LEDs and drivers are pretty much whatever the market is asking. A good driver that is 240-320 watts is about $70-80. Panels vary according to wattage (your paying for light power).
Dee
Ok looking at lights. Liking the quantum boards. I’m mainly about to see what is what with them. I see hlg qb 100 but coverage area is nothing for $150
Now I see a kit of 4 qb120 but no driver. Can I run em all from 1driver? If so which one? And there is no way to see the output of the models. What is better without a crazy tag on it. I want to start by saturating a 4x4area for flower. Once I run em I might fill 4x8 with them if they put out.
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