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Sixstrings Led Cob Builds

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Sixstrings Led Cob Builds

sixstring 1,139 Replies 221,465 Views
Page 47 of 57 · Replies 921–940 of 1,140
#922
sixstring said:
With those high power qb324 I would use the 90 degree qb11 because of mounting height.cobs won't be needed in a 5x5 with that setup.cree 3590-2700k is my choice for cobs.
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sixstring said:
Yes,seems a bit pricey but maybe not for your area.good kit.
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could you give me some pointers on turning this POS into an efficient light? The COBs are too close together and theyā€™re outdated, I had to turn disconnect two of the 6 during veg because the inyensity of the light was too high. Iā€™d like to replace the COBs bulbs themselves in this fixture with newer cree 3590s I think is the number, but what spectrum? Should I do a mix? 3500k and 3000k or mix in some 2700k? Iā€™m a newb (obv) to the COB light game...and rn I feel like they are too close together to have lenses on them. Theyā€™re 7 inches apart on center...any more info needed lmk and as always, appreciate the help homie
Image
Image
 
#923
Uckemfup said:
could you give me some pointers on turning this POS into an efficient light? The COBs are too close together and theyā€™re outdated, I had to turn disconnect two of the 6 during veg because the inyensity of the light was too high. Iā€™d like to replace the COBs bulbs themselves in this fixture with newer cree 3590s I think is the number, but what spectrum? Should I do a mix? 3500k and 3000k or mix in some 2700k? Iā€™m a newb (obv) to the COB light game...and rn I feel like they are too close together to have lenses on them. Theyā€™re 7 inches apart on center...any more info needed lmk and as always, appreciate the help homie View attachment 794575 View attachment 794576
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What brand light is that and what's inside it for drivers and cobs? 7in on center does sound way too close.
 
#924
sixstring said:
What brand light is that and what's inside it for drivers and cobs? 7in on center does sound way too close.
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It's the Chinese (Shenzhen Tech SunPlus LED) version of the Optic 6 light. Here's a link to exactly where I bought it. https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.1.5fc5663cfTcIRl

Temp: 3000k
COBs: Cree cxb 2540s (I believe? this light is suppose to be exactly like the Optic 6 : https://growlightcentral.com/produc...F_mgXg2CtyUeOk2IbODLqAnkWaD-7AfAaAsrgEALw_wcB )

Specs: LED Light Source: CXA COB+5W LED, Input Voltage(V): AC85-265V, Lamp Power(W):620, Lamp Luminous Flux(lm):36000, Lamp Luminous Efficiency(lm/w):50, CRI (Ra>):80, Color Temperature(CCT):Warm White, Working Temperature(ā„ƒ):20 - 45, Working Lifetime(Hour):50000, Lamp Body Material:Iron, IP Rating:Other, Certification:CE, LVD, RoHS, Emitting Color:White, Place of Origin:Guangdong, China (Mainland), Brand Name:Pioneer LED Model Number:P6, Power from the wall: 620W, Dimension:554*376*70mm, Input Voltage:AC85-265V 50/60HZ, Protection:Overheating protection, Spectrum/Color ratio:Full spectrum, Number of LEDs:COB/6pcs, 5W LED/96pcs, Suggested flower coverage:4' * 4', Lamp control:Timer plus two channels, Beam angle:90Ā°, 120 optional
I'll open it up and get some info and probably take a couple pics of the inside tomorrow.
 
#925
sixstring said:
What brand light is that and what's inside it for drivers and cobs? 7in on center does sound way too close.
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Pics of the inside... it was too heavy to hold up during the light cycle so Iā€™ll wait until nighty night and take it down to get some detailed specs on the drivers, etc

Pics are on this post:
Brown Tips On 2 Day Old Seedlings...?
 
#926
Uckemfup said:
Pics of the inside... it was too heavy to hold up during the light cycle so Iā€™ll wait until nighty night and take it down to get some detailed specs on the drivers, etc

Pics are on this post:
Brown Tips On 2 Day Old Seedlings...?
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My guess is the only thing you might be able to reuse is the power supply if it has the correct specs for the cobs you want. Maybe fans if they are appropriate.

Dee
 
#927
DGP said:
My guess is the only thing you might be able to reuse is the power supply if it has the correct specs for the cobs you want. Maybe fans if they are appropriate.

Dee
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Could I potentially use the heat sinks for QBs since they're long? I don't even want to use the drivers because its not dimmable.
 
#928
QB120's (50-60W per panel) don't need heat sinks and the QB132's (75W per panel) don't either. If you use the higher power panels (over $75w) you could use the heat sink if it is sufficient. Amazon has the QB120's for $124 for a set of 4 and $133 for a set of 4 each QB132's. I built one veg light from 6 each 120's that runs about 320 watts and I made a smaller tent light out of the other 2 (bought 2 sets of 4). The 132's are 2700K and 3500K and the 120's are 4000K. A single mean well supply could run 6 to 8 panels each. A nice light can be built for about $1 per watt.

Dee
 
#929
DGP said:
QB120's (50-60W per panel) don't need heat sinks and the QB132's (75W per panel) don't either. If you use the higher power panels (over $75w) you could use the heat sink if it is sufficient. Amazon has the QB120's for $124 for a set of 4 and $133 for a set of 4 each QB132's. I built one veg light from 6 each 120's that runs about 320 watts and I made a smaller tent light out of the other 2 (bought 2 sets of 4). The 132's are 2700K and 3500K and the 120's are 4000K. A single mean well supply could run 6 to 8 panels each. A nice light can be built for about $1 per watt.

Dee
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Nice info. Iā€™m thinking seriously about getting 4 120s or 132s and using one in a 2x2x4 for seedlings and then two side by side (or even the remaining 3) for early to late veg in a taller tent. Would u suggest 120s or 132s for this...and whatā€™s the diff? Just number of leds? Would the 132s work for seedlings better than the 120s? Thanks for ur help
 
#930
Uckemfup said:
Nice info. Iā€™m thinking seriously about getting 4 120s or 132s and using one in a 2x2x4 for seedlings and then two side by side (or even the remaining 3) for early to late veg in a taller tent. Would u suggest 120s or 132s for this...and whatā€™s the diff? Just number of leds? Would the 132s work for seedlings better than the 120s? Thanks for ur help
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The 132 makes a little more power than the 120 and yes the 132 has more LEDs.
 
#936
Ok looking at lights. Liking the quantum boards. Iā€™m mainly about to see what is what with them. I see hlg qb 100 but coverage area is nothing for $150
Now I see a kit of 4 qb120 but no driver. Can I run em all from 1driver? If so which one? And there is no way to see the output of the models. What is better without a crazy tag on it. I want to start by saturating a 4x4area for flower. Once I run em I might fill 4x8 with them if they put out.
 
#937
Monster762 said:
Ok looking at lights. Liking the quantum boards. Iā€™m mainly about to see what is what with them. I see hlg qb 100 but coverage area is nothing for $150
Now I see a kit of 4 qb120 but no driver. Can I run em all from 1driver? If so which one? And there is no way to see the output of the models. What is better without a crazy tag on it. I want to start by saturating a 4x4area for flower. Once I run em I might fill 4x8 with them if they put out.
Click to expand...

I run 4 of the QB120's with a Mean Well 240-2100 (B or C) (in series), or 6 QB120's with a 320-2100 (B or C) (in series as well) both B and C versions are dimmable if I remember correctly but one is nicer since you can hook a potentiometer (I think the "B" version) to it for dimming (much easier than the screws inside the driver case). for a 4X4 you will need about 600 - 650 watts so 3 X 150W panels (like the QB288) or 9-12 of the QB120's. When I was running 4X4 I had 50 watts to the sq foot. 40-50 w to the sq foot is kind of a general goal.

Drivers first number is the total watts (and they are conservative so you always get more).
Drivers second number is either constant current value ie: 2100, 1750 etc
Drivers second number is sometimes constant Voltage value as in: 24, 36, 54 etc.
Drivers letter designations sometimes means terminal type, dimmable with pot or PWM control signal or adjustment screws inside the drive (have to reach in with a small straight balde drive): A, B, C etc.

Mean Well has spec. sheets for each wattage of driver with all the options etc. the spec sheets can be accessed either on Mean Wells site or on sites such as Digikey and so on.

Constant current/Constant voltage (like the -24 -36-54) are generally for wiring in parallel and the constant current ones like 1750 -2100 etc are meant to put out fixed current and therefore are typically wired in series.

The advantages of parallel are its low non-lethal voltage (under 60V) but if a light goes out all the energy goes to the others and could overdrive them (rare but possible)

The advantage of series wiring is if a LED panel or COB fails the others power down protecting them. The disadvantage is your often dealing with voltages over 100 VDC and higher which can be lethal. Cover all exposed connections on the fixture (precautions need to be taken but no big deal, just common sense).

Just for general info, I typically see these fixtures come out to about $1.25 per watt to DIY. I have done it for as little as $1.00 per watt by scrounging around for surplus materials for the build like aluminum angle etc for the framing. The LEDs and drivers are pretty much whatever the market is asking. A good driver that is 240-320 watts is about $70-80. Panels vary according to wattage (your paying for light power).

Dee
 
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#938
DGP said:
I run 4 of the QB120's with a Mean Well 240-2100 (B or C) (in series), or 6 QB120's with a 320-2100 (B or C) (in series as well) both B and C versions are dimmable if I remember correctly but one is nicer since you can hook a potentiometer (I think the "B" version) to it for dimming (much easier than the screws inside the driver case). for a 4X4 you will need about 600 - 650 watts so 3 X 150W panels (like the QB288) or 9-12 of the QB120's. When I was running 4X4 I had 50 watts to the sq foot. 40-50 w to the sq foot is kind of a general goal.

Drivers first number is the total watts (and they are conservative so you always get more).
Drivers second number is either constant current value ie: 2100, 1750 etc
Drivers second number is sometimes constant Voltage value as in: 24, 36, 54 etc.
Drivers letter designations sometimes means terminal type, dimmable with pot or PWM control signal or adjustment screws inside the drive (have to reach in with a small straight balde drive): A, B, C etc.

Mean Well has spec. sheets for each wattage of driver with all the options etc. the spec sheets can be accessed either on Mean Wells site or on sites such as Digikey and so on.

Constant current/Constant voltage (like the -24 -36-54) are generally for wiring in parallel and the constant current ones like 1750 -2100 etc are meant to put out fixed current and therefore are typically wired in series.

The advantages of parallel are its low non-lethal voltage (under 60V) but if a light goes out all the energy goes to the others and could overdrive them (rare but possible)

The advantage of series wiring is if a LED panel or COB fails the others power down protecting them. The disadvantage is your often dealing with voltages over 100 VDC and higher which can be lethal. Cover all exposed connections on the fixture (precautions need to be taken but no big deal, just common sense).

Just for general info, I typically see these fixtures come out to about $1.25 per watt to DIY. I have done it for as little as $1.00 per watt by scrounging around for surplus materials for the build like aluminum angle etc for the framing. The LEDs and drivers are pretty much whatever the market is asking. A good driver that is 240-320 watts is about $70-80. Panels vary according to wattage (your paying for light power).

Dee
Click to expand...
Ok thanks.
 
#940
Monster762 said:
Ok looking at lights. Liking the quantum boards. Iā€™m mainly about to see what is what with them. I see hlg qb 100 but coverage area is nothing for $150
Now I see a kit of 4 qb120 but no driver. Can I run em all from 1driver? If so which one? And there is no way to see the output of the models. What is better without a crazy tag on it. I want to start by saturating a 4x4area for flower. Once I run em I might fill 4x8 with them if they put out.
Click to expand...

Growerslights.com has some QB kits you can get ideas from,have no idea if they are cheaper elsewhere.I have 2 hlg550s getting ready to be hung and im going to get 2 more of the DIY 600 kits very soon.Ive been waiting for those new v2 boards and i think there in,6% less power and 7 or 8% more light is what stephen says.
 
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